RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
#626
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
Is anyone else having trouble with the covering on this plane? It sucks!! If you need to remove any, the top clear layer seperates from the coloring. It leaves a mess on the wood. It appears to be old or something. I've never seen anything like it.
#627
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
I believe its stuff like that which makes the price below $500 mark. I personally would pay extra to have mine covered in monocoate or ultracoat or even coverite fabric. My neighbor has one of these, and yes, the covering sucks bad.[:@] Also, after a few flights, his starburst graphics were starting to lift at the sharp pointed edges. His only saving grace was I cut computer cast vinyl circles, ( the kind of vinyl used in the sign industry) and applied them to the tips. It's okay now. BTW...I'm in the sign biz and I know quality vinyl or covering when I see it. I wonder if I can order one of these in ARC and I'd cover it myself? Would this be impossible?
#629
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
I always defended the idea that ARFs should also be offered in ARC version so, no matter how good or bad the covering actually is, one can customize his plane both in detailing and color scheme.
That is far better than having to remove old covering and sanding the entire airframe clean - same happens to old monokote, many times I stripped older airframes and found Monokote or other plastic films to become brittle and cracking, leaving all those patches on the wood.
I am playing with the idea to market a "commercial" version of my 30% scale SD and think of offering both, ARF and ARC, or even RTF with customized finish. It's alittle bigger than RC guys' - mine has 118"WS.
Here a Pic of the 30% Scale SD and the Sport Scale prototype, yet unfinished.
That is far better than having to remove old covering and sanding the entire airframe clean - same happens to old monokote, many times I stripped older airframes and found Monokote or other plastic films to become brittle and cracking, leaving all those patches on the wood.
I am playing with the idea to market a "commercial" version of my 30% scale SD and think of offering both, ARF and ARC, or even RTF with customized finish. It's alittle bigger than RC guys' - mine has 118"WS.
Here a Pic of the 30% Scale SD and the Sport Scale prototype, yet unfinished.
#630
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
Recovering this plane is not going to be easy. Removing the old covering is going to be a nightmare! Once the top layer is removed, what is left is almost like paint. I removed a strip of covering to glue on the vertical stab and had to melt the "stuff" under the top layer to get it off.
However it does seem to smooth out fairly well with a heat gun. I sure wish I had some of those vinyl circles that Outacontrol was talking about. Do you think a dab of clear fingernail polish on the graphics would help?
However it does seem to smooth out fairly well with a heat gun. I sure wish I had some of those vinyl circles that Outacontrol was talking about. Do you think a dab of clear fingernail polish on the graphics would help?
#631
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
Hill, send me a PM with your address and I'll fix you up with a couple hundred....you'd need quite a few to get the job done. Just postage and a few bucks to cover cost..no markup involved. The circles are clear and are rated at 9 years from Avery Dennison.
Kell, I'd be interested in your SD if you were to produce one.....just don't use econocoat for your ARF version.....[sm=confused_smile.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]
Kell, I'd be interested in your SD if you were to produce one.....just don't use econocoat for your ARF version.....[sm=confused_smile.gif][sm=bananahead.gif]
#632
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
Using either Monokote or Oracover, better yet Oratex and some paint.
This project is still in its initial stages, but guess if it works out I will have a first batch ready towards the end of this year.
Outacontrol, sellin one to you means freight costs from Brazil! I am in the sunny south, man...
This project is still in its initial stages, but guess if it works out I will have a first batch ready towards the end of this year.
Outacontrol, sellin one to you means freight costs from Brazil! I am in the sunny south, man...
#633
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
Outacontrol, sellin one to you means freight costs from Brazil! I am in the sunny south, man...
is what Kell said.....
Ooohhh! That stings. Didn't see your southern most address. Might think about a U.S. distributor if you're gonna get serious about it. Hire a guy in the states with a pole barn to store about a hundred or less and pay him commision for sales or pass them on for wholesale. Choose someone less than fifty miles from where I live though....[sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=lol.gif]
is what Kell said.....
Ooohhh! That stings. Didn't see your southern most address. Might think about a U.S. distributor if you're gonna get serious about it. Hire a guy in the states with a pole barn to store about a hundred or less and pay him commision for sales or pass them on for wholesale. Choose someone less than fifty miles from where I live though....[sm=spinnyeyes.gif][sm=lol.gif]
#635
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
Hi guys, just chiming in.
My Rcguys SD arrived yesterday and I went to work on it as soon as I got the workshop cleaned up from the last project.
There are a few issues I found and a quite a few things omitted from the instructions. That’s why my motto is..
I spent about 4 hours on it and here are some tips and slight mods I made to the airframe. These are not necessarily for the guys who have already finished and flown theirs, but more for the future owners. Just tips that I found last night while working on it and basic building skills omitted from the instructions
1) Reinforce the firewall and tank tray with epoxy.
2) Grind flat spots on the axles for the wheel collars
3) Use a small amount of heat from a heat gun when removing the covering. It's cheap and will de-laminate
3) Use the string method to get the horz-stab in alignment before marking it.
4) Epoxy AND bolt on the horz-stab to the saddle using small blind nuts and screws
5) Sand the vert-stab “front key†so the fin fits ALL THE WAY down on the horz-stab.
6) Use locktite on the metal to metal screws
7) Use thin CA to harden all screw holes that go into wood after the screw has been threaded in and taken back out. ( This ARF lacks hardpoints)
8) Throw away the tube that comes with the fuel tank and replace it with better. (It’s cheap and too small anyway)
9) Use gorilla glue on the hinges. The holes are WAY oversized and GG expands to fill the gaps.
10) Replace the weird Chinese hardware with Dubro 4-40 parts.
11) Mount the cowl first and then align the engine mount to center the propshaft.
That’s it for now. Tonight I’ll install the radio and wing-struts. I should be able to maiden her tomorrow…Weather Permitting.
My Rcguys SD arrived yesterday and I went to work on it as soon as I got the workshop cleaned up from the last project.
There are a few issues I found and a quite a few things omitted from the instructions. That’s why my motto is..
I spent about 4 hours on it and here are some tips and slight mods I made to the airframe. These are not necessarily for the guys who have already finished and flown theirs, but more for the future owners. Just tips that I found last night while working on it and basic building skills omitted from the instructions
1) Reinforce the firewall and tank tray with epoxy.
2) Grind flat spots on the axles for the wheel collars
3) Use a small amount of heat from a heat gun when removing the covering. It's cheap and will de-laminate
3) Use the string method to get the horz-stab in alignment before marking it.
4) Epoxy AND bolt on the horz-stab to the saddle using small blind nuts and screws
5) Sand the vert-stab “front key†so the fin fits ALL THE WAY down on the horz-stab.
6) Use locktite on the metal to metal screws
7) Use thin CA to harden all screw holes that go into wood after the screw has been threaded in and taken back out. ( This ARF lacks hardpoints)
8) Throw away the tube that comes with the fuel tank and replace it with better. (It’s cheap and too small anyway)
9) Use gorilla glue on the hinges. The holes are WAY oversized and GG expands to fill the gaps.
10) Replace the weird Chinese hardware with Dubro 4-40 parts.
11) Mount the cowl first and then align the engine mount to center the propshaft.
That’s it for now. Tonight I’ll install the radio and wing-struts. I should be able to maiden her tomorrow…Weather Permitting.
#636
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
ORIGINAL: mschneider2005
Hi guys, just chiming in.
My Rcguys SD arrived yesterday and I went to work on it as soon as I got the workshop cleaned up from the last project.
There are a few issues I found and a quite a few things omitted from the instructions. That’s why my motto is..
I spent about 4 hours on it and here are some tips and slight mods I made to the airframe. These are not necessarily for the guys who have already finished and flown theirs, but more for the future owners. Just tips that I found last night while working on it and basic building skills omitted from the instructions
1) Reinforce the firewall and tank tray with epoxy.
2) Grind flat spots on the axles for the wheel collars
3) Use a small amount of heat from a heat gun when removing the covering. It's cheap and will de-laminate
3) Use the string method to get the horz-stab in alignment before marking it.
4) Epoxy AND bolt on the horz-stab to the saddle using small blind nuts and screws
5) Sand the vert-stab “front key†so the fin fits ALL THE WAY down on the horz-stab.
6) Use locktite on the metal to metal screws
7) Use thin CA to harden all screw holes that go into wood after the screw has been threaded in and taken back out. ( This ARF lacks hardpoints)
8) Throw away the tube that comes with the fuel tank and replace it with better. (It’s cheep and too small anyway)
9) Use gorilla glue on the hinges. The holes are WAY oversized and GG expands to fill the gaps.
10) Replace the weird Chinese hardware with Dubro 4-40 parts.
11) Mount the cowl first and then align the engine mount to center the propshaft.
That’s it for now. Tonight I’ll install the radio and wing-struts. I should be able to maiden her tomorrow…Weather Permitting.
Hi guys, just chiming in.
My Rcguys SD arrived yesterday and I went to work on it as soon as I got the workshop cleaned up from the last project.
There are a few issues I found and a quite a few things omitted from the instructions. That’s why my motto is..
I spent about 4 hours on it and here are some tips and slight mods I made to the airframe. These are not necessarily for the guys who have already finished and flown theirs, but more for the future owners. Just tips that I found last night while working on it and basic building skills omitted from the instructions
1) Reinforce the firewall and tank tray with epoxy.
2) Grind flat spots on the axles for the wheel collars
3) Use a small amount of heat from a heat gun when removing the covering. It's cheap and will de-laminate
3) Use the string method to get the horz-stab in alignment before marking it.
4) Epoxy AND bolt on the horz-stab to the saddle using small blind nuts and screws
5) Sand the vert-stab “front key†so the fin fits ALL THE WAY down on the horz-stab.
6) Use locktite on the metal to metal screws
7) Use thin CA to harden all screw holes that go into wood after the screw has been threaded in and taken back out. ( This ARF lacks hardpoints)
8) Throw away the tube that comes with the fuel tank and replace it with better. (It’s cheep and too small anyway)
9) Use gorilla glue on the hinges. The holes are WAY oversized and GG expands to fill the gaps.
10) Replace the weird Chinese hardware with Dubro 4-40 parts.
11) Mount the cowl first and then align the engine mount to center the propshaft.
That’s it for now. Tonight I’ll install the radio and wing-struts. I should be able to maiden her tomorrow…Weather Permitting.
#637
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
ORIGINAL: Hill202
Wow! You received this plane yesterday and your maiden is tomorrow? Did you sleep? You must have a crew to help put it together
ORIGINAL: mschneider2005
Hi guys, just chiming in.
My Rcguys SD arrived yesterday and I went to work on it as soon as I got the workshop cleaned up from the last project.
There are a few issues I found and a quite a few things omitted from the instructions. That’s why my motto is..
I spent about 4 hours on it and here are some tips and slight mods I made to the airframe. These are not necessarily for the guys who have already finished and flown theirs, but more for the future owners. Just tips that I found last night while working on it and basic building skills omitted from the instructions
1) Reinforce the firewall and tank tray with epoxy.
2) Grind flat spots on the axles for the wheel collars
3) Use a small amount of heat from a heat gun when removing the covering. It's cheap and will de-laminate
3) Use the string method to get the horz-stab in alignment before marking it.
4) Epoxy AND bolt on the horz-stab to the saddle using small blind nuts and screws
5) Sand the vert-stab “front key†so the fin fits ALL THE WAY down on the horz-stab.
6) Use locktite on the metal to metal screws
7) Use thin CA to harden all screw holes that go into wood after the screw has been threaded in and taken back out. ( This ARF lacks hardpoints)
8) Throw away the tube that comes with the fuel tank and replace it with better. (It’s cheep and too small anyway)
9) Use gorilla glue on the hinges. The holes are WAY oversized and GG expands to fill the gaps.
10) Replace the weird Chinese hardware with Dubro 4-40 parts.
11) Mount the cowl first and then align the engine mount to center the propshaft.
That’s it for now. Tonight I’ll install the radio and wing-struts. I should be able to maiden her tomorrow…Weather Permitting.
Hi guys, just chiming in.
My Rcguys SD arrived yesterday and I went to work on it as soon as I got the workshop cleaned up from the last project.
There are a few issues I found and a quite a few things omitted from the instructions. That’s why my motto is..
I spent about 4 hours on it and here are some tips and slight mods I made to the airframe. These are not necessarily for the guys who have already finished and flown theirs, but more for the future owners. Just tips that I found last night while working on it and basic building skills omitted from the instructions
1) Reinforce the firewall and tank tray with epoxy.
2) Grind flat spots on the axles for the wheel collars
3) Use a small amount of heat from a heat gun when removing the covering. It's cheap and will de-laminate
3) Use the string method to get the horz-stab in alignment before marking it.
4) Epoxy AND bolt on the horz-stab to the saddle using small blind nuts and screws
5) Sand the vert-stab “front key†so the fin fits ALL THE WAY down on the horz-stab.
6) Use locktite on the metal to metal screws
7) Use thin CA to harden all screw holes that go into wood after the screw has been threaded in and taken back out. ( This ARF lacks hardpoints)
8) Throw away the tube that comes with the fuel tank and replace it with better. (It’s cheep and too small anyway)
9) Use gorilla glue on the hinges. The holes are WAY oversized and GG expands to fill the gaps.
10) Replace the weird Chinese hardware with Dubro 4-40 parts.
11) Mount the cowl first and then align the engine mount to center the propshaft.
That’s it for now. Tonight I’ll install the radio and wing-struts. I should be able to maiden her tomorrow…Weather Permitting.
Agreed! That's good advice in your list of improvements....but you must be the fastest ARF builder ever? How do you do it? Lot's of coffee?
#638
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
No, no coffee, no team... I just have a method that works for me. I've been building kits for 25 years and assembling arfs since the late 80's. My friend "Probuilder" on RCU has taught me tips and tricks to make ANY airplane better. He is a master scale builder and all around good guy. If you have a chance.. do a search for his AWESOME fiberglass AT-6 kit.
Anyway.. one thing I forgot to mention in my tips is to mark the location of the cowl mounting blocks then drill 4 or 5 - 1/16" random holes on the firewall and the blocks. not all the way through, but maybe half way through. So that when you epoxy the blocks on, the epoxy has some place to go and basically adds more surface area for the epoxy to grip onto.
One thing the manufacturer wants you to do is put one servo horn up and one down on the elevator.. Don't do it if you don't HAVE to. Just mix an extra channel in on your radio. It's important to have the geometry the same on both sides. (Both horns up or both horns down, but the same.)
Anyway.. one thing I forgot to mention in my tips is to mark the location of the cowl mounting blocks then drill 4 or 5 - 1/16" random holes on the firewall and the blocks. not all the way through, but maybe half way through. So that when you epoxy the blocks on, the epoxy has some place to go and basically adds more surface area for the epoxy to grip onto.
One thing the manufacturer wants you to do is put one servo horn up and one down on the elevator.. Don't do it if you don't HAVE to. Just mix an extra channel in on your radio. It's important to have the geometry the same on both sides. (Both horns up or both horns down, but the same.)
#640
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
ORIGINAL: mschneider2005
No, no coffee, no team... I just have a method that works for me. I've been building kits for 25 years and assembling arfs since the late 80's. My friend "Probuilder" on RCU has taught me tips and tricks to make ANY airplane better. He is a master scale builder and all around good guy. If you have a chance.. do a search for his AWESOME fiberglass AT-6 kit.
Anyway.. one thing I forgot to mention in my tips is to mark the location of the cowl mounting blocks then drill 4 or 5 - 1/16" random holes on the firewall and the blocks. not all the way through, but maybe half way through. Sp that when you epoxy the blocks on, the epoxy has some place to go and basically adds more surface area for the epoxy to grip onto.
One thing the manufacturer wants you to do is put one servo horn up and one down on the elevator.. Don't do it if you don't HAVE to. Just mix an extra channel in on your radio. It's important to have the geometry the same on both sides. (Both horns up or both horns down, but the same.)
No, no coffee, no team... I just have a method that works for me. I've been building kits for 25 years and assembling arfs since the late 80's. My friend "Probuilder" on RCU has taught me tips and tricks to make ANY airplane better. He is a master scale builder and all around good guy. If you have a chance.. do a search for his AWESOME fiberglass AT-6 kit.
Anyway.. one thing I forgot to mention in my tips is to mark the location of the cowl mounting blocks then drill 4 or 5 - 1/16" random holes on the firewall and the blocks. not all the way through, but maybe half way through. Sp that when you epoxy the blocks on, the epoxy has some place to go and basically adds more surface area for the epoxy to grip onto.
One thing the manufacturer wants you to do is put one servo horn up and one down on the elevator.. Don't do it if you don't HAVE to. Just mix an extra channel in on your radio. It's important to have the geometry the same on both sides. (Both horns up or both horns down, but the same.)
Thanks
#641
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
[/quote]
Do you have any pictures ?
Thanks
[/quote]
Pictures of what? the AT6? I found the link from years ago. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_12...tm.htm#1226500
If you mean my SD, no I don't. My camera is dead and the charger is in my office. It was raining today, ALL DAY, so the maiden will have to wait until next weekend.
--M
Do you have any pictures ?
Thanks
[/quote]
Pictures of what? the AT6? I found the link from years ago. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_12...tm.htm#1226500
If you mean my SD, no I don't. My camera is dead and the charger is in my office. It was raining today, ALL DAY, so the maiden will have to wait until next weekend.
--M
#644
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
Wing Bags
Gauch had asked about wings bags a page ago or so.
This and other information regarding my electric conversion of the Decathlon can be found at:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=793980&page=4
Gauch had asked about wings bags a page ago or so.
This and other information regarding my electric conversion of the Decathlon can be found at:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=793980&page=4
#646
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
I'm thinking the wing struts are necessary. Without the struts attached have somebody hold one wing tip and lift the plane by the other and kinda "bounce" - seems like a lot of flex without the struts.....
Might be OK if only very low G flying, but......?
Might be OK if only very low G flying, but......?
#648
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
Hill202
If the wear at the fuse tab to strut bottom hole is any indication, Mine uses the struts pretty hard. I'm concerned w/ wear of the Al the strut is made of.....
~12 flights
Good luck
Scott
If the wear at the fuse tab to strut bottom hole is any indication, Mine uses the struts pretty hard. I'm concerned w/ wear of the Al the strut is made of.....
~12 flights
Good luck
Scott
#649
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
One of my fuse tabs was on the verge of pulling through due to wear. I replaced it with one made of a better quality alum. Had a small piece of some 6061 (I think) sheet laying and used that. It isnt showing any signs of distress at this point.
The struts seem to be doing well so far.....some slight wear at the hole (near the fuse) but nothing that looks like it will fail....50 flts or so.
The struts seem to be doing well so far.....some slight wear at the hole (near the fuse) but nothing that looks like it will fail....50 flts or so.
#650
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RE: RC Guys Super Decathlon coming
I started the gas Saito for the first time this afternoon. After the break in period, I turned on the smoke. It smoked great! I'm not sure how impressed the neighbors were, but I sure was. I shut it down and went inside to get the camera. When I started it back up for pictures, the smoke pump would not work [:@] It's not the plumbing or the wiring, I think its something mechanical where the motor connects to the pump. The motor hums and seems to bind up. I pulled the pump back out of the plane.I purchased the pump from Tower, I'm not sure if I can return it to them or if I have to send it to Sullivan. I have read that others have had the same problem.
I used different material for the strut mounts as well. Sounds like I need to plan on using the struts.
This plane is not going to be a rocket with the gas Saito but it sounded good. Here is a picture after the smoke pump quit working.
I used different material for the strut mounts as well. Sounds like I need to plan on using the struts.
This plane is not going to be a rocket with the gas Saito but it sounded good. Here is a picture after the smoke pump quit working.