Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
06-09-2008, 08:39 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
ORIGINAL: Jimeni
It will, but not by very much at all. The big thing will be the gap between your cowl and spinner, but even that will be a minor issue, just cosmetic.
It will, but not by very much at all. The big thing will be the gap between your cowl and spinner, but even that will be a minor issue, just cosmetic.
OK, thanks very much!!
06-10-2008, 05:39 AM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
Went to the field last night with the only intentions to run motor and program throws on my radio. Well it was a perfect night, no wind at all engine (OS 160) was running great, plane was all set. Decided to do the maiden, lined up on the runway, pushed the throttle and it was off in 100 feet. Couple of click one way, couple of other clicks and it was hands off. Wow this plane is a dream to fly. Elevator throw was a bit too much, snapping on full loop so I landed, lowered low rate on the elevator, took off again and now I can say that this plane is fantastic. Aeroworks really does a nice job putting together these QB kits. Was running an 18x6W APC but felt it was loading up a bit, will try a 17x6 Xoar next time, motor is still breaking in. Now to just go over the whole thing and double check all of the screws, etc.
R/C Foolish
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06-10-2008, 08:49 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
I used a 2700 NiMh 6 volt battery and mounted on frame bracing behind canopy former. Balanced right on the wing tube. I think I trimmed with a couple of clicks down elevator.
R/C Foolish
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06-12-2008, 01:27 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
Scote,
Nice job with the cockpit. How is your electric setup doing? I'm getting close to burning my wallet on this and would want to do it as an electric as well. How have your flight times been?
thanks
Nice job with the cockpit. How is your electric setup doing? I'm getting close to burning my wallet on this and would want to do it as an electric as well. How have your flight times been?
thanks
06-15-2008, 09:08 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
Gents,
Flew the Yak today with an APC 17x6 on the OS 120 AX just hit 9 K RPM on Powermaster 20x20 running rich lots of smoke (still breaking in)
After landing rudder was full left and sounded locked on? Turned off went back to the pits made sure it was not binding. Turned on and again full left.
Took it out plugged in another servo which worked fine. Took it out of the plane and it seems to function nomally, put it back in the pull pull works normal.
I am running a Specturm 2.4 RX and TX. The servo is a new HiTEC HS 5645MG on 6 Volt 2100 MAH NO BS Battery Pack.
Any Ideas on what the problem could be?
Thanks,
Steve
Flew the Yak today with an APC 17x6 on the OS 120 AX just hit 9 K RPM on Powermaster 20x20 running rich lots of smoke (still breaking in)
After landing rudder was full left and sounded locked on? Turned off went back to the pits made sure it was not binding. Turned on and again full left.
Took it out plugged in another servo which worked fine. Took it out of the plane and it seems to function nomally, put it back in the pull pull works normal.
I am running a Specturm 2.4 RX and TX. The servo is a new HiTEC HS 5645MG on 6 Volt 2100 MAH NO BS Battery Pack.
Any Ideas on what the problem could be?
Thanks,
Steve
06-15-2008, 09:15 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
Without scanning all the posts. Does anyone have a 26cc gasser in this plane? I was talking to the hobby shop owner here, and he said 15% nitro was going up to $25.00 a gal. from $14.99. I was looking at the new improved SPE 26cc. With ignition and muffler it weighs about the same as the saito 180. The SPE only has slightly less horsepower. Saw one today at the field, and he had unlimited vertical at a little over 3/4 throttle on a 10lb sukoi. Looks like a great engine. http://www.maxfordusa.com/spe-26cc.aspx
Also, to answer my earlier post about lateral balance. I added the .75 oz of weight to the right wing to balance. It did not increase the roll (snap) with elevator. As a matter of fact, it did nothing at all. So I just took it back off. Glad I didnt go through the trouble of installing it permanantly.
Also, to answer my earlier post about lateral balance. I added the .75 oz of weight to the right wing to balance. It did not increase the roll (snap) with elevator. As a matter of fact, it did nothing at all. So I just took it back off. Glad I didnt go through the trouble of installing it permanantly.
06-15-2008, 10:56 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
Yes SPE26, still stock muffler, using Mezlik 18-6 turns 8100 rpm using a WT391 carb and stack. Weight of plane no fuel 9lbs 8 ozs. Run time with 10 oz tank 10-11 minutes. Use one 1100 2 cell A123 battery for receiver and ignition, which has drop diodes, two switches. With the SPE engine, used about 1-2 gallons of fuel to break in. Takes awhile to use a gallon. IMHO gas is the way to go, whichever gas engine you use.
06-16-2008, 12:28 AM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
ORIGINAL: Slviper
Gents,
Flew the Yak today with an APC 17x6 on the OS 120 AX just hit 9 K RPM on Powermaster 20x20 running rich lots of smoke (still breaking in)
After landing rudder was full left and sounded locked on? Turned off went back to the pits made sure it was not binding. Turned on and again full left.
Took it out plugged in another servo which worked fine. Took it out of the plane and it seems to function nomally, put it back in the pull pull works normal.
I am running a Specturm 2.4 RX and TX. The servo is a new HiTEC HS 5645MG on 6 Volt 2100 MAH NO BS Battery Pack.
Any Ideas on what the problem could be?
Thanks,
Steve
Gents,
Flew the Yak today with an APC 17x6 on the OS 120 AX just hit 9 K RPM on Powermaster 20x20 running rich lots of smoke (still breaking in)
After landing rudder was full left and sounded locked on? Turned off went back to the pits made sure it was not binding. Turned on and again full left.
Took it out plugged in another servo which worked fine. Took it out of the plane and it seems to function nomally, put it back in the pull pull works normal.
I am running a Specturm 2.4 RX and TX. The servo is a new HiTEC HS 5645MG on 6 Volt 2100 MAH NO BS Battery Pack.
Any Ideas on what the problem could be?
Thanks,
Steve
06-16-2008, 08:02 AM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
ORIGINAL: Lormuhl
Yes SPE26, still stock muffler, using Mezlik 18-6 turns 8100 rpm using a WT391 carb and stack. Weight of plane no fuel 9lbs 8 ozs. Run time with 10 oz tank 10-11 minutes. Use one 1100 2 cell A123 battery for receiver and ignition, which has drop diodes, two switches. With the SPE engine, used about 1-2 gallons of fuel to break in. Takes awhile to use a gallon. IMHO gas is the way to go, whichever gas engine you use.
Yes SPE26, still stock muffler, using Mezlik 18-6 turns 8100 rpm using a WT391 carb and stack. Weight of plane no fuel 9lbs 8 ozs. Run time with 10 oz tank 10-11 minutes. Use one 1100 2 cell A123 battery for receiver and ignition, which has drop diodes, two switches. With the SPE engine, used about 1-2 gallons of fuel to break in. Takes awhile to use a gallon. IMHO gas is the way to go, whichever gas engine you use.
06-16-2008, 04:04 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
Ok, did the search and read your posts. Looks like a good match. Any particular reason you changed the carb.? I think I will deffinately get the pitts style muffler.
06-16-2008, 11:56 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
The mid range had a slight burble to it in transition to main circuit. Tried different needle adjustmens, high and low, and still had burble. I tried lever adjust, venting the plate to inside the plane and still had burble. I purchased the carb, WT391, from BCMA and it works great. The midrange is now clean and the top end gained approx 100 rpm out of the package. More fine tuning to come. Yes the plane pulls out of a hover and keeps going. If you want to hover the plane 90% of the time, then go with the Zoar 18-6, it has a wider blade, but the Mezlik 18-6 is the best all around it my opinion. Keep the plane light.
06-18-2008, 03:43 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
I have noticed that my landing gear is now starting to bow out just a liitle. I have never landed hard enough to stop the engine, but my landings aren't greasy smooth. I decided to order a carbon fiber gear. hopefully it will also push the cg back just a little as well as lighten the airplane.
Anyone have any experience with the carbon fiber gear??
MR G
Anyone have any experience with the carbon fiber gear??
MR G
06-18-2008, 06:38 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
ORIGINAL: flyingtanks
Scote,
Nice job with the cockpit. How is your electric setup doing? I'm getting close to burning my wallet on this and would want to do it as an electric as well. How have your flight times been?
thanks
Scote,
Nice job with the cockpit. How is your electric setup doing? I'm getting close to burning my wallet on this and would want to do it as an electric as well. How have your flight times been?
thanks
Thankx for the cockpit compliment.....I'm still waiting to see pics of anyone else who has done a pilot/dash.[sm=confused.gif]......Electric version is doing great.....I have my timer set at 10 mins. which brings my F3A 5350 packs back at approx. 1/2 gone.....I flew this plane at the Coastal Challenge IMAC contest and double sequences hardly used any electrons out of the packs......recharged in 35 mins. @ less than 1c........if I could afford it I would do a 50cc version electric as well.....the power this setup has been incredible with no vibration, slime or fiddling with the power plant 20 x 10 APCe, vertical is unlimited[sm=shades_smile.gif]
06-18-2008, 07:35 PM
#1342
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
ORIGINAL: MR G
I have noticed that my landing gear is now starting to bow out just a liitle. I have never landed hard enough to stop the engine, but my landings aren't greasy smooth. I decided to order a carbon fiber gear. hopefully it will also push the cg back just a little as well as lighten the airplane.
Anyone have any experience with the carbon fiber gear??
MR G
I have noticed that my landing gear is now starting to bow out just a liitle. I have never landed hard enough to stop the engine, but my landings aren't greasy smooth. I decided to order a carbon fiber gear. hopefully it will also push the cg back just a little as well as lighten the airplane.
Anyone have any experience with the carbon fiber gear??
MR G
Be careful of composit gear. It is more expensive and will flex to a degree before it delaminates. Then it's done. I'll stick with the aluminum. Much more foregiving.
06-18-2008, 08:59 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
MR G
[/quote]
The aluminum gear will spread a little if you set her down a bit heavy but is easy to bend back in a vice. I have done so twice.
Be careful of composit gear. It is more expensive and will flex to a degree before it delaminates. Then it's done. I'll stick with the aluminum. Much more foregiving.
[/quote]
You got that right!!!!!!!!
If you order carbon fiber gear, order a 2nd set so you have an extra set while your 3rd one is on the way.
On my X100, I reinforced the carbon gear by tightly wrapping spiderwire around the bends, and coating it with a thin layer of epoxy. Looked good and did keep the gear from delaminating as quickly. Even the graphtech gear delaminated, but they did last alot longer than hangar 9's.
06-20-2008, 04:59 AM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
Re Carbon gear - my advice is don't do it! I had carbon gear at first but ripped the uc plate off on a fairly OK landing, 3 flight. Maybe mine was just too stiff compared to the strength of the uc plate. Beefed up the uc mounting a bit and went back to alu gear = no problems after 15 flights
06-21-2008, 05:18 PM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
Balance was not an issue, move battery behind canopy area, fuel tank in front of wing tube. Plenty of power, point the nose up and it keeps going, hover and plenty of pull out. Real nice combination.
R/C Foolish
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06-28-2008, 12:02 AM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
I'm mounting a Saito 180 in my YAK and am running into the same issue. I'm side mounting the engine and the carb is hitting one of the upper motor mount bolts. If I slide the engine forward and give it about and extra 1/16th clearance to the bolt head, I'm about 7/16ths too far forward from specs. I'm not too concerned about how it will look as I doubt anyone will really notice but is 7/16ths going to cause me a big issue with balance later? Any thoughts or should I just bolt'r up and not worry about it? Thanks in advance for anyone's comments / suggestions.
06-28-2008, 01:50 AM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
I think I found the solution to my own problem (ie: mount interference with Saito 180). I looked a bit closer at the Saito 180 carb / intake set-up (it's my first 180) and saw that I could just loosen the intake manifold lock nut and slightly rotate the carb downwards at almost a 45 degree angle. I know... Not your conventional set-up to have the carb/intake running diagonal but it worked. It gave me the clearance I needed to mount the engine at 5-11/16" from the firewall without the engine mount bolt interferring with the trottle control arm. No grinding, no changing fasteners, no nothing. Just a two minute fix. The other good news, now the intake is better protected behind the engine from dirt should I nose it in (which I'm hoping NEVER happens !). For anyone considering mounting a Saito 180 to their 1.20 YAK 54, I've attached a few photos to better describe what I'm talking about. If anyone thinks I'm missing something and that this solution isn't a good idea, I'd love to hear your comments. Thanks. 
)
)
06-28-2008, 05:14 AM
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RE: Introducing the new 90-1.20 Yak QB
ORIGINAL: Lumpy n bumpy
I think I found the solution to my own problem (ie: mount interference with Saito 180). I looked a bit closer at the Saito 180 carb / intake set-up (it's my first 180) and saw that I could just loosen the intake manifold lock nut and slightly rotate the carb downwards at almost a 45 degree angle. I know... Not your conventional set-up to have the carb/intake running diagonal but it worked. It gave me the clearance I needed to mount the engine at 5-11/16" from the firewall without the engine mount bolt interferring with the trottle control arm. No grinding, no changing fasteners, no nothing. Just a two minute fix. The other good news, now the intake is better protected behind the engine from dirt should I nose it in (which I'm hoping NEVER happens !). For anyone considering mounting a Saito 180 to their 1.20 YAK 54, I've attached a few photos to better describe what I'm talking about. If anyone thinks I'm missing something and that this solution isn't a good idea, I'd love to hear your comments. Thanks.)
I think I found the solution to my own problem (ie: mount interference with Saito 180). I looked a bit closer at the Saito 180 carb / intake set-up (it's my first 180) and saw that I could just loosen the intake manifold lock nut and slightly rotate the carb downwards at almost a 45 degree angle. I know... Not your conventional set-up to have the carb/intake running diagonal but it worked. It gave me the clearance I needed to mount the engine at 5-11/16" from the firewall without the engine mount bolt interferring with the trottle control arm. No grinding, no changing fasteners, no nothing. Just a two minute fix. The other good news, now the intake is better protected behind the engine from dirt should I nose it in (which I'm hoping NEVER happens !). For anyone considering mounting a Saito 180 to their 1.20 YAK 54, I've attached a few photos to better describe what I'm talking about. If anyone thinks I'm missing something and that this solution isn't a good idea, I'd love to hear your comments. Thanks.
)
If you haven't thought about it yet, how are you going to get to the high speed needle? On mine, I flipped the carb so that the high speed needle is up. I put a hole in the cowl and put a little pushrod in the needle hole so I have easy access to the needle. If you're going to use a pitts style muffler you don't need the cooling holes that AW recommends IF, you cut a big square notch on the bottom of cowl allowing the muffler to not interfere with anything on the cowl and lots of air to get in around the engine. I cut the holes AW recommended, but after putting the notch under the cowl they were really not necessary. Take a look at my gallery if you need pics.
BTW, you're going to love this combo. Lots of power!!!
