NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

My OS FS-20 (no muffler) sounded as big and powerful as my Enya 80-4C (no muffler too). That used to tickle the dickens out of me when everyone was looking around for the "other" larger model and all they could find was my little Caprice 15 with a 42" wingspan.


Ed Cregger

blw

My Feedback: (3)

My speakers are very tinny on the monitor, so I'm not surprised that I didn't hear a lot.

dwalk

I've just bought my first 4 stroke, a saito 72 gk. I'm now waiting for it to arrive in NZ. What prop do you recommend i break it in on? I am looking at using Sig four stroke full synthetic fuel, with 10% Nitro, Is this a suitable fuel, and is synthetic or castor oil better for break in? Any tips and tricks for a newbie to four stroke rc engines? Bear in mind i'm a relative newcomer to rc planes ( 1 year ) and that this engine will be going into a 4*40 or 4*60 or similar. Looking forward to getting some expert / experienced advice.

Dwalk

Rudolph Hart

Bit windy in levin,what are you going to fly it in and do you realise what you have started by buying your first saito fourstroke?? next thing you know you won't want to talk to the hanbrake because she's wasting your precious time out in the shed breaking in your new engine and that sound you go to bed with...you're crazy mate

mike109

G'day I have had two FA-72 engines. The first was talked out of me and so I have recently replaced it with a new one which I am yet to run. I will run it on a 13 x 6 prop. Initially I will run it for a tank with the needle about 5 turns open on half throttle. This is very rich and may require the glow driver to stay connected. I have a tacho and will set it to run at about 4000 RPM intially. Next run I will lean it out a bit and try to get it running at about 5000 RPM for a tank full. Next tank I will try to get about 6000 RPM and it will still be running pretty rich. During this run I will pinch the fuel tube so that it briefly runs at a leaner setting. I will do this about every 30 seconds. At this point I will try full throttle and see whether it will hold about 7000 RPM and if so I will fly it. It will be in a trainer and it is far more powerful than the trainer needs so the fact that it will be running on the rich side and not making full power should not matter. On subsequent flights I will gradually lean the top end out until after about an hour of running it is running about 500 RPM richer than full power and I will leave it this way.

I will not try to adjust the low speed needle until it has about 20 to 30 minutes running. Saitos Low Speed Needles are usually set pretty rich out of the box but I just set the idle high initially and also set the radio so I can kill the engine in flight if I need to. The trick with the LSN is to adjust gradually. Once the engine will hold a peak high setting, then you can gradually sneak up on the bottom end setting. Idling will improve as the engine runs in and as you gradually find the bottom setting. Go gently on the LSN - about 1/8 of a turn at a time and note where the needle is before you start so you can go back to the "out of box" setting if you need to.

I use 10% nitro fuel with 5% castor and 15% synthetic oil plus 70 % methanol. You can run more nitro if you wish once the engine is run in but for the kind of use you are talking about, I would not bother to use more.

I have had a Four Star 40 and I would think that the 72 is on the big side for it. I do have a Four Star 60 and it originally had a 72 in it. The 72 flew it well but it was on the low end of the engine size range. I now have a FA-100 in it. My 72 is going into an overpowered Kadet Senior. I suspect that a slightly larger model than a Four Star 40 would be better for the 72 - say a Tiger 40. The best match for the Four Star 40 that I have ever seen was an early Saito 40. This was a very lightly built plane with a small light engine and flew very well.

Good luck and enjoy your Saito.

scosby

Help!!! I need an ARF for my .30 Saito. It is mounted on a Lil Slo-Poke that I got at a Swap Meet, but to achieve the correct CG I have to add 8 to 10 oz. of lead to the nose, and I really don't want to do that.

Thanks,

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

the slow poke will fly fine with a half pound of lead in the nose

davidgeorge212

i got my 60 twin today and it is a beautiful motor. I cant wait to run it to see what it sounds like.

david g.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

This is what it sounds like

[link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/articles/1706-singlecylinder.mp3]Saito 90TS[/link]

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

I am gonna be breaking in a saito 82 this weekend. Any tips or just follow the instruction. I was looking at using a 13X6 prop for the first while, should you use a smaller prop at the start. The 14X6 seems quite large. Thanks Ken

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I try to run the first tank very rich. Slowly lean it out and run different speeds. Try to follow the book.

13 X 6 for the break in

Rudolph Hart

Yes balance a 13x6 and go for it.I ran mine nearly a turn richer than recommended for the first couple of tanks and you could see raw fuel droplets being sprayed out the exhaust,it still ran without a glo stick attached.It's an incredibly strong engine with a 14x6 apc wide blade when run in.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I run them rich like described above to flush out the fine metal particles left over from manufacture

Capt Lou

The carb low end adjustment comes from the factory very rich. Leave it that way for several gallons of fuel even if you adjust the high end intially. These engines run better rich than lean

Slats!

My Feedback: (1)

thx for the replys

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

The engine sounds great, Jim.

What kind of setup did you use to record that with? Recording good audio is not a simple task.


Ed Cregger

AircamperAce

My Feedback: (11)

Please help Saito pro's! My Saito has been less than enjoyable lately. It's an old FA-65 that I picked up used. It ran and idled great when I first got it but has become increasingly harder and harder to tune reliably. The needle settings need to be constantly readjusted and at times the high speed needle has little or no effect on RPM, I am unable to make it over rich. I can turn the needle completely out, remove it and it still runs (tops out at just about 10,000 RPM with an APC 12x6)! Sounds to me like an air leak. I've cleaned out the carb and replaced fuel lines several times but that doesn’t seem to help. The valve clearances were out so I just adjusted those, I also just changed the glow plug from an unknown/unmarked to a O.S. F type. If that doesn't work what else should I try? Any tips or tricks?

mike early

That sound a little like when I removed my fuel filter and later accidentally installed it backwards. Little bitty exhaust particles in the fuel were trapped then released. One of them partially clogged up then tiny orifice in the needle valve.

You say you've cleaned your carb. Did you dismantle it first?

Maybe you have bad fuel!

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

ACA, your prop is to small for starters, try a 12x8 or 13x6. Your settings will be easier to set and manintain.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

ACA, your prop is to small for starters, try a 12x8 or 13x6. Your settings will be easier to set and manintain.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Your low speed mixture needle is "IN" too far. You need to back it out a little

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I'm at my daughters in W.Va., she has something called NetZero, I get visibly older waiting for a post to post.

mbrennan1

I am up to 6 Saito's . I have a 180, 150, 125, 91, and 2- 82's. I love them all. I do have a question. I replaced the bearings in one of my 82's. Somehow I lost one of the 4 screws that that holds the jug down. Either I dropped it or my grand-daughter got it. Does anyone know what size screw this is? I went to the hardware store and could not match it up. I took one down to Fastenal, and the told me it was a 2-56. I walked out. I looked at Horizon's web site and it said that I it comes with 6 screws. 2 for cam??? All I need is 1 screw. Thanks in advance,
Mike

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I can assure you it is not 2-56

There are four screws for the cylinder

There are four for the cam box and four for the back plate. These are the same diameter as the cylinder screws but are shorter

There are four for the valve covers but they are long and slim

mike early

I had to buy one of these sets, myself. Plenty of spares now.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=SAI6514