MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Randy, I did a flap mod on all of my Ultras Sports and I HIGHLY recommend it. Cut just shy of 1/3 of the inboard side of the aileron and bring the ailerons all the way out to the wingtips

Deadeye

10-4, good buddy. Will do, and thank you! Did you use 1 or 2 flap servos?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

One flap servo actuates the torque rods. For the ailerons, I have done it both ways - one in the center with Gold-N-Rods and one in each wing. Works either way

box car

Anyone know off hand what the wing span on the US 1000 was?  I want to get a set of build prints, they list the span at 74 inchs don't know if that is right..
Ken

MILDBILL-RCU

My Feedback: (6)

Boxcar, I'm in the covering stages of my U.S. 1000. the span on the plans equals 80". In the manual, they desribe how to eliminate the last bay & rib & make it a 74" span. from what I've heard, the shorter span flies a bit better. More manuverable. But either way, its an Ultra-sport, so it will fly great. Bill

box car

Thanks Bill, yours looks good. Wish i had not sold mine it was 10 years old. I will get the build prints and have a go at an other one. What type engine are you going to use? I had a ST3000 in mine.
Ken

airbusdrvr

I did my US1000 with one less bay per wing and it flies great.

Crash Campbell

Hi Ken and Bill,

I built my US1000 with the full span wing @ 80" and the roll rate is just slightly less than my CG Chippy and my F3A models. The slower than a blurr roll rate makes for the easiest rolling circles of any model I have flown. However I would agree with Mike and build the model with flaps. I didn't and unless there is a head wind it just doesn't want to stop flying. Either way you will love the US1000. FWIW I powered mine with an OS160, the vertical performance is.

Cheers,

Colin

mineburg

I wanna be in too.

Insanemoondoggie

I was ordering some parts from Tower and click this page by mistake http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=GPMA0425&P=OW They still have canopys in stock for the US 1000 . Just thought I share it with the US1000 owners ,

SeaJay

My Feedback: (6)

Hey, RCKen,

Do you have any pictures of the US60 twin that you built?  I want to convert an US1000 to twin, and any pictures and tips would be helpful.

Do I need to build the engine Nacelles on the high side of the wing, so that I get the thrust line of the twins as close to the original thrust line as poss??  Never built or flown a twin, and any help would be appreciate.. 

everybody is welcome to chime in with advice/help/tips, etc.

Thanks, Craig.

box car

If anyone is looking for a US1000 there is one on the bay 120564974146
This be a nib kit

Eganwp

My Feedback: (1)

Count me in #53!

BTW last night I picked up an almost brand new US 60 from an guy who is getting to old to fly anymore for $150 w/ a new ST 75 on the nose! Can't wait to fly it while I finish building my US60! It's covered in vinyl covering (name?) rather than mono/ultra.

ser00

I wonder how much the 1000 will go for on EBAY. I think I will watch this one carefully also. Might have to bid on it

landeck

My Feedback: (1)

I am in the process of starting the build of US60. The question I have is the engine mount. The one in the kit is a GP adjustable mount for 40-60 size engines. I am planning on using either a Magnum XL 90 4S or a Fox .74. The included engine mount seems a little light and small for those engines. I ordered the next size up but it is much bigger than the included one. I am not sure which I should use because the nose will be a tight fit based on my experience with the US40 I built in 1990. Anyone have a suggestion or comment?

Bruce

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

Overall I'm not a big huge fan of GP hardware and accessories but they do have a decent engine mount. I have a 75AX on mine and it holds up nicely.

BelAirBob

The motor mount I got with it would not expand far enough for the .75 AX. I got the next size up which caused some more problems, but it fits and is definitely stronger than the enclosed one....

My US60 is all covered and just needs to have the servos installed....almost done....

bob

prgonzalez

I used the GP 40-60 and installed a TH-75 engine. I installed the engine as far back as possible to screw the engine in the thick section of the mount and cut the excess. No problems.

FallDownGoBoom

My Feedback: (1)

I used one of the Dave Brown/Dubro 75 sized nylon mounts with the round backplate. Mounted an OS75AX on it, and as Prgonzales did, trimmed off some excess length. I also had to reduce the thickness of one of the mounting blades a little to get it to fit inside the cowl.

carlosponti

My Feedback: (1)

can i be number 54? I have a kit I want to build soon. I flew a 40+ and was told the original flew even better. cant wait to get it built putting retracts in it. this will be my first plane with retracts.

Eganwp

My Feedback: (1)

Hey guys!

So last night was my maiden flight of the "Ultra Sport" series!!! I AM IN LOVE! Seriously, out of all the planes I've flown, this plane put the biggest grin on my face. Even more so than my 50cc gas I just put up a couple weeks ago, but the pucker factor is still a bit large on that one. Such a great plane. I got the ST 75 tuned up with a 12x6 to start (as it's still breaking-in a bit) and double checked all surfaces. I'm not overly impressed with the RPM's after nearly an hour of tuning. Only turning a 12x6apc @ 12,000 peak, but I'll keep playing with her. Going to try a 12x7 or 8 to see as maybe she's just not a revver. Anyway, I took off and could not believe how straight this plane flies. On the 2nd flight I was doing full throttle passes literally 3 feet off the runway because it flies so true. I don't think I've ever had a plane that I felt this comfortable flying this fast so low on the runway! I also took her through 4 full sequences of the IMAC routine just to see how it did. It was great! Rolls were great, and snaps were pretty clean. I especially like the hammerhead stall recovery on this plane. It's still pretty nose heavy, so I'll be shifting the battery tonight which make it roll a bit more axially as well.

But out of all this do you know what suprised me the most? It's stall characteristics! The guy didn't even round out the LE very much at all on the build, but let me tell you. I took her up high, chopped the throttle and slowly added in elevator until the plane was literally almost stationary in the sky (0 wind last night). I waited for the stall, but then I realized that she wasn't going to drop a wing!!! All it did was ever so slowly mush forward just slightly and basically just floated in this position; the wings stayed 100% level through the entire "stall"! Couldn't believe my eyes, so I did it 4 more times just to make sure! lol. Best part is, I didn't even lateral balance it, but the guy who built it must have either done so, or built the wings pretty equally.

To top it all off, what really made me grin was how it flares in on landing. In RealFlight out of all the planes (including probably 100 custom planes I've downloaded), my favorite landing plane is the Ultra Sport. To see it flare and land so gracefully just like in the sim, and greasing-in on every single landing honestly made me giggle.

Eganwp

box car

Did they stop making the US40?
Ken

blueapplepaste

My Feedback: (5)

Yeah, I think so. They still have the .60 kit so I went ahead and picked one up to save on to.

box car

I ordered the 60 am going to make a P-38 style twin with 2 RCV 60, might need a drag chute with this one
Ken

cpeisher

My Feedback: (13)

Well, I joined the US Brotherhood when i was a "want to have" a few weeks ago, but i now have one one the way.  Picked up a US 60 kit with a set of B&D mechanical retracts for $125 shipped.  As soon as i finish the GP J-3 Cub 40 build in progress, I'll be starting this one.