mickieb49

So from my calculations somewhere around the 3200rp/v is about where i should be?? or lower? I am going to start covering in the inside of the hull to create a watertight compartment for the ESC too......lesson learned.
Some one mentioned the Grim racer props, what are the sizes you guys are using? 42x55 ? are there any 3 blades you are using? or do they push too many amps?
Thankyou

ryan_t888

I would say 2200-2500kv would be great for a 4s tunnel

Ryan

ozzie-crawl

what tunnel and what size, lot of success with ul-1,blackjack,sv27 motors, decent speed reliable and dont pull a lot of amps if propped correctly

norbique

What do you think of this motor?

ryan_t888

What are the specs of that motor.

Ryan

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

you would need 8s to get the rpms out of that motor

norbique

I was thinking so. Too bad it has so low kv. AT 1400kv it would be usable with 6S.
I asked HK if they plan to sell these motors with higher kv winds as well, bu no response.

Specifications:
Dimension: 58mm x 49mm, 78mm(with shaft)
Weight: 369g
Kv: 1100rpm/V
Turns: 10T
Voltage: 5~7S
Max Current: 110A
Diameter of shaft: 6mm
Length of front shaft: 21.5mm
ESC: 100~120A

pooch692000

Anyone looking to buy a ready to go TS2 FE conversion boat? I converted it and have never run it, only dry checked it to see if it runs and it does. There is very little fresh water around here on Long Island that I can go to and I do not want to ruin it in saltwater. It is ready for lipos and all is needed are lipo batteris. I run the same moor setup and esc on my Supervee 27 and get close to 50 mph out of it with twin 25c/5000mh lipos. Boat is setup and all is needed is to add batts and tweak setup as desired. Already have COG with the lipos set in their place at 9.5" Like I said it has never seen the water as a FE.


Boat was run 4 times as a Gasser until motor crapped out.

Included in New FE setup:

White TS2 hull
Motor - Brand new, never used Ammo 36-50-2300kv and has AMMO Water Jacket from kintec
ESC- AquaCraft 60-Amp Water-Cooled/Proof Marine ESC LiPo Rdy (set with deans plugs)
Fuller Lower unit with 40mm prop included
Sealable box for all electronics

TX/RX- Tactic 2.4ghz setup (receiver has no antenna and is already in ballon inside box on boat. Two access hatches in box- one for batts and other for electronics)

Best offer takes it......
I'll try and post on classifieds too

norbique

Hey people,

I recently acquired a brand new Feigao 12L. What do you think, will it push my tunnel nice on 4S?
4*3.7*2,159 RPM = 31953 RPM theoretical. Which seems good. I would probably get around * 0.8 on the prop ~ 25K RPM.
Does this motor have the power to propel my 29 inch tunnel nicely?

ryan_t888

Yes, it should do well.

Ryan

norbique

Thanks Ryan!

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

I would guess mid to upper 40's

norbique

That would be great! Thanks for the reply srt10!

bigwaveohs

My Feedback: (6)

Richard on the RRR form has indicated that he is designing a new lower unit. here is his quote and some of my thoughts that follow:


"Richard Konnen here of REK. After 5 plus years it is time for a new version of lower unit. So I am cutting new molds and would appreciate some feed back of what you think would be useful on changes. Currently I am raising and lengthening the cavitation plate a little over 6mm. I am hoping to come out with my own prop shaft that will be longer on the shaft for thicker hub props. Adding a molded-in water pickup. Going to a motor adapter that is only .18 thick to lower motor. Thinned down the skeg and made the leading edge a little sharper. I am also thinking of offering it to be used with an OS prop shaft. Working on a new material also, lighter and stiffer, only testing will tell on the material. I have to mix the combination to get what I want. One last thing so far, working on motor that would not need a motor coupler. Hope to get it certified as spec."

My thoughts:

- provide a better seat for the stub shaft; had to make a nylon spacer for stub shaft to adjust the cable end-float as well as give a solid seating surface; the casting was too uneven where the stub shaft screws in.
- space for larger prop would be nice
- keep overall length the same; we are running a P-spec VS-1 and need the shorter LOA; haven't had cable problems
- lubrication hasn't been a problem as we typically teardown, inspect and lube after about 4 runs; on my K&B 3.5 nitro I drilled a hole into the side and through one side of the stuffing tube; then used a syringe to inject a bit of Prather cable grease...put a lube hole in the side about midway down the lower...we are using a different motor adapter.
JMHO

rekmachine

Thank you for your input.

- provide a better seat for the stub shaft; had to make a nylon spacer for stub shaft to adjust the cable end-float as well as give a solid seating surface; the casting was too uneven where the stub shaft screws in.

Spacer should not be used, should grind end of flex shaft to fit. I do not understand the uneven casting you describe. If you look at the seating lip on a K&B prop shaft, there is a V-undercut. My lower unit has the same shape to some what match it even though it is not necessary since the lower unit is not in two halves. The V-undercut was to keep the K&B from splitting apart after they went to the screw in prop shaft.

- space for larger prop would be nice

Already was on the list, the amount the cavitation plate is raised will allow as much as a 56mm prop, providing the prop shaft is long enough.

- keep overall length the same; we are running a P-spec VS-1 and need the shorter LOA; haven't had cable problems
- lubrication hasn't been a problem as we typically teardown, inspect and lube after about 4 runs; on my K&B 3.5 nitro I drilled a hole into the side and through one side of the stuffing tube; then used a syringe to inject a bit of Prather cable grease...put a lube hole in the side about midway down the lower...we are using a different motor adapter.
JMHO
[/quote]


Best regards,
Richard

cat samich

i figured i would post here as well, you guys seem to have a good grasp on fe outboards. what do i need to convert my k&b nitro outboard to an fe? i have a nue 2200 brushless motor already.

ryan_t888

3.5cc or 7.5cc lower unit?

2200 is also very large. I would only run that on a hull over 42"

What are the specs of your hull, and 2200 series motor?

Ryan

Diegoboy

Anyone see [link=http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=PRB4000BD]THIS[/link] yet

cat samich

i dont have a hull lined up for this yet. the motor is a castle mamba monster 2200.
the k&b is a 7.5, i'd like to use it on a larger tunnel or deep vee. maybe in the 48" range.

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

yep it's from a thread I started and it looks flipping fantastic for a off the shelf F1
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9764204/tm.htm

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

hey Ryan, someone over at OSE is building F1 boats and he has a Castle 2200kv motor on 4s in a 36" Tunnel and it goes man!
I think he has seen a best of 69mph so far

ryan_t888

I read he had a Neu 2200 series motor somewhere. #665

Ryan

srt10

My Feedback: (20)

He started a new thread and is running a Castle 1515 2200kv motor in one of his Tunnel Hulls a 36"
but their could be other threads that we are both seeing?

cat samich

my bad, it is a mamba 2200. castle uses nue motors though right? most of the time when i say mamba monster in the boat forums people say they haven't heard of it so i called it a neu 2200kv

ryan_t888

I was looking at this thread under post # 665

Neu is much different than Castle. Castle is a dealer of Neu motors.

The Mamba 2200kv motor would be great in a hull around the mid 30" region as SRT10 has pointed out. I would run 4s on it.

Ryan