BIG LAMA
Just can not wait for my holiday to start on Friday as I have to drag myself to work in the morning. Planning to take 4 helis along and to fly at every opportunity to make up for lost stick time the last 5 weeks.
Edmund2.
Peter, great news. Remember to advise when you get stick time again. Withdrawl symptons must be severe by now and can only be cured by flying the real thing as Clearview must become boring after a while.
Just can not wait for my holiday to start on Friday as I have to drag myself to work in the morning. Planning to take 4 helis along and to fly at every opportunity to make up for lost stick time the last 5 weeks.
It is the greatest news mate![sm=thumbs_up.gif] - what do they say - "if you don't have your health......."
It doesn't look as though I will be flying an actual model until the weekend though - 'cause the forecast here ATM is for rain & more rain
I might have to resort to bribing my wife to let me into the community hall (to get rid of the withdrawal shakes[sm=wink_smile.gif]) as she has a key card access and I don't[:'(] Better indoors than not at all!!
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Back to early morning starts and a mountain bike to work pre-dawn for me[sm=what_smile.gif][&:][sm=confused_smile.gif]
Got the blood test resultsthat turned out to be the best in 10 yearsand the graph of sugar level daily tests over the last month (5.3 average). Guys, I am beating Type2. Well done to my wife and me listening to her. We can do our own cook book by now. 1 More kg to go then I am where I want to be but a few from where the doc wants me to be.
Edmund2
"5)This may be it! The lower rotor set moves up and down a bit on the outer shaft (Ican move it down far enough to see the screw holes on the lower shaft, where the two small screws should be.The screws are still in the lower rotor set, but not screwed in enough to make it through that and into the outer shaft. "
Buzz has got you to the right place for getting you going again,and when you get these screws back inplace, run some hot glue over them, as once they have taken a phsyical hit like you describe they will come loose again. I suggest next time you have a parts order going in, grab yourself the EK1-0363 as a couple more hits and the screws will not hold in the plastic.
Happy Flying
Geoff
Sorry, I did not had the time to follow the thread.
I did not had a single minute of flights either. Only spare parts, to be used to build another bb-BOL -a red one- and a static green one. Along with the so many blue ones I have. My estimation of finishing the building is... well, no estimation...
The only bird I flew was the Syma S107, for a couple of flights.
It is smaller than what I had in mind, but who cares.
The bad thing is that the rudder is on the right stick. So I get confused most of the times...
So, whatever bird you fly now I wish good flights !
I hope to see you soon (your news, videos and the great company).
Spiros
Thank you both Buz & Geoff! I have made the repairs and a few successful flights. So far so good. I really appreciate your help!
Greg
Buzz
Has anyone else had this prob? I am preparing two BOLs for the weekend - in case the weather outdoors suddenly gets better - and am trying to bind them both with the one Tx. In the past this has worked well (with my ET6I Tx), but I am trying a newish ET4 Tx and can't get one of them to bind at all![:@] I am getting frustrated now 'cause each time I un-bind (via the switch) is it fine - but won't re-bind with the ET4 Tx
I think I am doing everything correctly.........
Could someone provide me with a step by step so I can rest assured that I am re-binding correctly?
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Would I be correct to assume that the newer model ET4 doesn't easily bind with the older-style Rx?[sm=confused.gif] This is the first time I have heard of this "prob"
With your esky et4 tx i had the same problem. TRY THIS: Turned on the heli first and i pushed the little button on the receiver until it flashes veru fast, unplugged the battery, then turn on the tx, then connect the battery, if it did not bind, i left the battery connected on the heli but turned the tx off and on again, and i got it to bind
Hope this helps
Michael
At home and on holiday, feel totallybushed but that will go away soon. Off to a Wardbird RC show at my old Air Force base in themorining and from there to ahobby show but will keep the plastic at home as to not to tempt my bank balance.
Edmund2
Ok... this is enough! I went to the LHS and bought the right bolt and nut set to fasten the gear to the main shaft. I had the guy there put it in because he had the right tools.
So, $18 later, I had everything set to go. I flipped it on throttle hold to check the servos... all work fine. So, since there is nothing in the living room, I decided to run it up until it got light on the skids so I could check the tail rotor again. I gave it just a touch more throttle to see if it would lift straight up.
I have no idea what has changed since Brian flew it... but as soon as it left the floor, I had absolutely no control over it. It shot forward hit a wall, bounced off and broke one rotor grip off... It landed backwards on the floor and bent hell out of the tail boom again. Something has changed and I don't know what it is. The only thing I've done since Brian flew it was put the drive gears back on. I know they are right because the helicopter expert put them on and tightened them down for me.
So, two tries....two failures. So, I give up! I'm not going to repair this piece of sh*t again! If anyone wants to buy it ... .it is for sale with the fly mentor installed, all servos, and DX-7 receiver.
If I had taken it outside to fly, it would have been in the next county. I've never seen such a horrible trim job... and I have changed nothing. So, I plan to either sell it the way it sits.....or I may do like Killbucket and set it on the gas grill and burn this POS!
Finished....done....over with it. One thing I can guarantee you of.. It was NOT me who slammed it. Yes, all of the switches were in the right position... but I guarantee you that Tony nor Brian could fly this thing again. It's F****ked up! It was balanced perfectly. Now it's broken again. Email me at [email protected] if you are interested in buying the whole works. I'll sell it for less than I have invested in it just so I never have to look at it again! Am I pissed off? You bet your ess I am!
There will be no videos! This is absolutely ridiculous. It can be repaired for about $10.... but I'm not spending another penny on it. I have invested $400 in this thing+ $100 for the fly mentor, and payed Tony at least $200 for the last repair and parts. So, I've spent $700+ on a used helicopter .... You can buy it for $450.....so I'll have some money to buy more coaxials. I'm dead serious!
Maybe I'll try another single blade that is ready to fly sometime soon.
Buzz
If I buy a 2.4g receiver for my stock BOL can I just bind it with my existing 2.4g TX that I use for UBOL or is there more to it? Would be great as I do pick up interference from vehicles driving past my home fly zone or when the electric gate opens. Can do the same for the two CP's as well if it is possible. Then only have to cart 2 Tx's around instead of 4.
At home and on holiday, feel totally bushed but that will go away soon. Off to a Wardbird RC show at my old Air Force base in the morining and from there to a hobby show but will keep the plastic at home as to not to tempt my bank balance.
Short answer - Y - you only need to purchase and install an Esky 2.4G Rx (EK2-0426) in your stock BOL to make it compatible with your 2.4G Tx. Unbind - then re-bind the new Rx with the 2.4G Tx that you want - they are mostly interchangable...... (read on for details of the new prob.[sm=wink_smile.gif])
I have been running four x 2.4G Rx off my Tx - up until now I have had no probs. The older-style 2.4 Tx (ET4) can run any Esky 2.4 Rx (with attached bird). The prob comes when I try to bind a newish ET4 with my old Rx - but the problem could exist within my Rx!
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. I even was running (from the same ET4) an Esky 2.4G Lama4 (after converting it from FM by the purchase of a [link=http://www.rc711.com/shop/24g-esky-4in1-mixing-controller-ek20708-p-1114.html?cPath=166_22_40]small coax 2.4G Rx[/link]) - and was even thinking of installing the mechanics into a UFO shell which I already have - as you know![sm=49_49.gif]
P.P.S. I'm sorry that you are having profound probs with your 450 Buzz........[sm=sad_smile.gif]
With your esky et4 tx i had the same problem. TRY THIS: Turned on the heli first and i pushed the little button on the receiver until it flashes veru fast, unplugged the battery, then turn on the tx, then connect the battery, if it did not bind, i left the battery connected on the heli but turned the tx off and on again, and i got it to bind
Hope this helps
Thanks mate, I will go try all that right now. I might have missed something - but that sounds like one of the things that I did try! I'll tell you how I go........cross-fingers[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=49_49.gif]
Edit: Still no joy! I've noticed that the Rx light when the switch is pressed doesn't "flash very fast" but instead comes on steady! Do you think I have a shot Rx? I will have to track down my spare within my parts boxes now.......(could take a while)
I have even tried to bind it to the ET6I that I successfully bound it with before - same result. So I am increasingly favouring a shot Rx[&:]
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
The correct -and the only working one at least for me- procedure to bind an Rx to a Tx (or vice versa) to a *BOLis to:
*EK2-0426 + EK2-0404H
1. First you must unbind the Rx. Even if it is a new one.
Plug in the li-po to and then push the bind button on the Rx.
2. Bind the Tx to the Rx.
Turn Tx on, its led blinks for some seconds, then stops and get solid. You must complete the binding procedure while its led still blinks.
So while it is blinking you must plug in the lipo and then press the bind button on the Rx.
You have no time to do so.
So one must hold the Tx, tell when he turns it on, then you immediatelly plug in the li-po and push the button.
Of course the throttle must be on the lowest and so the idle trim. All other trims to the center.
3. For the first time after binding you can move the throttle at max before you plug in the lipo then plug the li-po and move the throttle to the minimum and then the aileron to the max & min, so the elevator.
This is not said at the manual, but I do it this way.
Spiros
Buzz, I do not feel the way you do about the 450... yet. Plan to go with a few regulars on Monday morning to fly everything I have except the L4.
Edmund2
I run all my 2.4ghz Big Lama with just one (Big Lama 2.4ghz) Tx.
No matter if it was an RTF or if Ihave bought a spare Rx (for a build from scratch BOL).
I try to make the needed adjustments on the swashplate link rods so each BOLflies with the same trimming (at the center).
So I can carry only one Tx, wear out only one, and have only 4 AA used.
It would be so difficult to do so if I had not made the adjustments on the swashlate link rods, as I must have 5 BOL now...
So, either this or take a Tx with memory presets, which is an expensive solution.
But the cheap solution works, so I`m happy with it.
Anyway I have 4 stock Tx...
<hr />
Too bad.
If I buy a 2.4g receiver for my stock BOL can I just bind it with my existing 2.4g TX that I use for UBOL or is there more to it? Would be great as I do pick up interference from vehicles driving past my home fly zone or when the electric gate opens. Can do the same for the two CP's as well if it is possible. Then only have to cart 2 Tx's around instead of 4.
At home and on holiday, feel totally bushed but that will go away soon. Off to a Wardbird RC show at my old Air Force base in the morining and from there to a hobby show but will keep the plastic at home as to not to tempt my bank balance.
Short answer - Y - you only need to purchase and install an Esky 2.4G Rx (EK2-0426) in your stock BOL to make it compatible with your 2.4G Tx. Unbind - then re-bind the new Rx with the 2.4G Tx that you want - they are mostly interchangable...... (read on for details of the new prob.[sm=wink_smile.gif])
I have been running four x 2.4G Rx off my Tx - up until now I have had no probs. The older-style 2.4 Tx (ET4) can run any Esky 2.4 Rx (with attached bird). The prob comes when I try to bind a newish ET4 with my old Rx - but the problem could exist within my Rx!
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. I even was running (from the same ET4) an Esky 2.4G Lama4 (after converting it from FM by the purchase of a [link=http://www.rc711.com/shop/24g-esky-4in1-mixing-controller-ek20708-p-1114.html?cPath=166_22_40]small coax 2.4G Rx[/link]) - and was even thinking of installing the mechanics into a UFO shell which I already have - as you know![sm=49_49.gif]
P.P.S. I'm sorry that you are having profound probs with your 450 Buzz........[sm=sad_smile.gif]
I found the problem. When the 450 was shipped back to me, the gear and all of the swash linkage had been pulled off. I put it all back together, but I failed to notice that the swash linkage that connects to the ball on the anti rotation device, was not connected. The head, gear and linkage have been taken off so many times, I simply missed it during pre-flight. So, I guess it was my fault. I know I can fly the 450, but both attempts have resulted in a crash on takeoff due to mechanical problems. So, I need to order some parts and I'll rebuild it myself. Not a total tragedy... but after 3+ months of trying to get this thing right... you can imagine my frustration. I'll get it right yet.
Buzz
Hi Peter,
I found the problem. When the 450 was shipped back to me, the gear and all of the swash linkage had been pulled off. I put it all back together, but I failed to notice that the swash linkage that connects to the ball on the anti rotation device, was not connected. The head, gear and linkage have been taken off so many times, I simply missed it during pre-flight. So, I guess it was my fault. I know I can fly the 450, but both attempts have resulted in a crash on takeoff due to mechanical problems. So, I need to order some parts and I'll rebuild it myself. Not a total tragedy... but after 3+ months of trying to get this thing right... you can imagine my frustration. I'll get it right yet.
I'm glad that you stuck with it and found the source of the prob mate That is half of the battle! You will get it right if you are pedantic (anal) about set-up I do feel your frustrations after 3+ months of trying mate[sm=confused_smile.gif], STICK AT IT!! This time you will get it if you check every little thing before-hand......[sm=49_49.gif]
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Personally I can't be bothered with such details all the time - I have to many things to remember for work, and leisure time is for relaxing
Hi Peter and Edmund,
The correct -and the only working one at least for me- procedure to bind an Rx to a Tx (or vice versa) to a *BOL is to:
*EK2-0426 + EK2-0404H
1. First you must unbind the Rx. Even if it is a new one.
Plug in the li-po to and then push the bind button on the Rx.
2. Bind the Tx to the Rx.
Turn Tx on, its led blinks for some seconds, then stops and get solid. You must complete the binding procedure while its led still blinks.
So while it is blinking you must plug in the lipo and then press the bind button on the Rx.
You have no time to do so.
So one must hold the Tx, tell when he turns it on, then you immediatelly plug in the li-po and push the button.
Of course the throttle must be on the lowest and so the idle trim. All other trims to the center.
3. For the first time after binding you can move the throttle at max before you plug in the lipo then plug the li-po and move the throttle to the minimum and then the aileron to the max & min, so the elevator.
This is not said at the manual, but I do it this way.
Thanks from Oz also mate! You made the time to spend posting on this forum - under duress no doubt - and I am grateful for that. Have tried all of your step-by-step, and am now convinced that my Rx (EK2-0426) in my second BOL is stuffed and will need replacing. On inital search in my parts boxes I can't find one - but when I get more time and motivation I will do a more though search - promise!
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Had a short hover today, and it seems the "natural" stick movements are no longer natural and will have to be relearnt![]
Hi Peter and Edmund,
The correct -and the only working one at least for me- procedure to bind an Rx to a Tx (or vice versa) to a *BOLis to:
*EK2-0426 + EK2-0404H
1. First you must unbind the Rx. Even if it is a new one.
Plug in the li-po to and then push the bind button on the Rx.
2. Bind the Tx to the Rx.
Turn Tx on, its led blinks for some seconds, then stops and get solid. You must complete the binding procedure while its led still blinks.
So while it is blinking you must plug in the lipo and then press the bind button on the Rx.
You have no time to do so.
So one must hold the Tx, tell when he turns it on, then you immediatelly plug in the li-po and push the button.
Of course the throttle must be on the lowest and so the idle trim. All other trims to the center.
3. For the first time after binding you can move the throttle at max before you plug in the lipo then plug the li-po and move the throttle to the minimum and then the aileron to the max & min, so the elevator.
This is not said at the manual, but I do it this way.
Thanks from Oz also mate! You made the time to spend posting on this forum - under duress no doubt - and I am grateful for that. Have tried all of your step-by-step, and am now convinced that my Rx (EK2-0426) in my second BOL is stuffed and will need replacing. On inital search in my parts boxes I can't find one - but when I get more time and motivation I will do a more though search - promise!
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Had a short hover today, and it seems the "natural" stick movements are no longer natural and will have to be relearnt![]
... well, based on rumours I heard from Germany things like you just described will keep on happening to more people - even with NEW RX's ... according to news from there the new RXs are supposedly only working with a particular TX when they are sold, so that this whole binding several RXs to one stock Esky charger is going to be a thing from the past ... which would be an awful step backwards and I still have no real proof confirming it ... but the next weeks and months will show if Esky really did this major step backwards (actually if it really IStrue, it kind of looks like brand suicide to me ...)
regards,
Sven
.....
<hr />
Too bad.
... not only seem the prices for parts from China to increase slowly all across the board lately, I ordered a few things over eBay that are allegedly original Esky parts ... and some of them must be pirated - AND they are of a MUCHMUCH lower quality than the other "originals" I ordered from someone else about 2 or 3 weeks ago. I ordered landing skid brackets which bent soo bad, I guess one hard landing and the BOL would "sit on the battery" and yesterday I got a CF tailfin (if it even really ISCF!!) for my BOL pod-and-boom conversion that was supposed to be from a HBK - I got one that oviously is for the Belt CP ... ANDit flexes so bad, you wont even believe it (on the other hand not surprising, if you consider that the material is only half as thick as MY"original" part ...)
Was again eBay (cheap)!!
[b]So for all of you who order from eBay a lot ... be prapered to get some really low quality stuff in the upcoming weeks and months if you try to reorder formerly "good" spare parts!!!]/b]
this were only twice the same experience within one week now, but I am slowly starting to get to the point where I ask myself how long I will still stay in this hobby if China/eBay keeps on going down this road ...
(and this after I just put the first parts up in my own little web store that I hoped to develop into a income supplementing side effect from something I truely are passionate about ... )
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The weather is calm and I would like to once again fly with my Lama,
Oh well that is already two months into parts on the table.
Why?
After a big crash after bladestrike quite shocked the whole thing straight away.<o></o>
So ordered a brushless set from RTFheli.com.The 3/1 board couldn't take it, the Lama kept spinning ...
That should do the trick.
Although experimentally, I had expected something else as wheezing speed controllers whitch apparently not sync up.
So back to tracking through www,
but can not find out what problem is and what I need to do.
Can anyone give me a hint?</meta></meta></meta></meta>
Well, it could be the 3in1 that causes the problem.
So the Rx could had been bound actually but the 3in1 makes the problem. I had problems caused by a faulty servo as well. It could not get the 3in1 initialised.
Before you proceed to buying a new Rx test it to a known working BOL.
Check also if the binding switch is soldered OKto the pcb of the Rx. I had one that came off at one of its soldering points from a crash. I just soldered it back.
Recently Ibought a Rx from global.mart. To make a build from scratch BOL. I have not tried it yet though. All other Rx, including a new one, were succefully bound to my first BOL Tx.
I have not even tried my new red BOL from Miracle Mart.
Neither the EK2-0704B gyro, nor the new DD mixer or the Blue Arrow Nano v-tail mixer or the hobbywing v-tail mixer or the new RC Timer esc or the new EK5-0004 motors...
What`s left?
Nothing... I have no stick time either...
My little baby has all my attention.
Hi Buzz,
I think you need some luck there.
I wish you luck and patience.
Hi Sven,
I see what you mean.
It`s like the cheap AA ebay Chinese rechargeable batteries. They could be good but they are only cheap.
They weigh about 19g, less than 22g anyway (that a 1600mAh is), and a good one (about 2400mAh) should weigh about 28g. With the best be at 31g.
At 19g the estimated capacity is only 1100mAh or even less... Very poor performance...
They are only cheap, but useless...
Too bad you see positive feedback while they should leave negative for "not as described" and ask for a refund also.
That`s the bad thing.
Hi Babaquidu,
I did not quite understood what your problem is.
I could help a bit in a boardless - brushless BOL.
But you can also check Simon`s (sgbfly) guide.
If you still have a problem or a question post again. I`m sure that if it is not me then it will be someone else who can help you.
Good flights -and have one flight for me also
Spiros
Hi Peter,
I found the problem. When the 450 was shipped back to me, the gear and all of the swash linkage had been pulled off. I put it all back together, but I failed to notice that the swash linkage that connects to the ball on the anti rotation device, was not connected. The head, gear and linkage have been taken off so many times, I simply missed it during pre-flight. So, I guess it was my fault. I know I can fly the 450, but both attempts have resulted in a crash on takeoff due to mechanical problems. So, I need to order some parts and I'll rebuild it myself. Not a total tragedy... but after 3+ months of trying to get this thing right... you can imagine my frustration. I'll get it right yet.
I'm glad that you stuck with it and found the source of the prob mate That is half of the battle! You will get it right if you are pedantic (anal) about set-up I do feel your frustrations after 3+ months of trying mate[sm=confused_smile.gif], STICK AT IT!! This time you will get it if you check every little thing before-hand......[sm=49_49.gif]
Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Personally I can't be bothered with such details all the time - I have to many things to remember for work, and leisure time is for relaxing
Thank you for your comments. It just seemed like the worst luck in the world... but we do make some our own bad luck. I did! I checked every linkage... but apparently not that one. I've just tried flying my CB180D using the 2401 Tx. I flipped dip switches until I had every stick movement going the right way. But, it takes a gear puller to get the tail rotor off and I've lost mine. So, (check this out!) my wife went with me to the LHS to get a gear puller and they had the grips for the 450 in stock, so I grabbed them too. $13 for one pair.
So, I have the CB180D ready. I went outside a few minutes ago and ran it up. Everything works great. (mind you, i got this in a trade for one of my non working BOL's and it was new in the box!) I ran it up, hit the throttle and it came straight up... and forward. I trimmed it better, and this is a single rotor helicopter that really DOES fly like the BOL. The jump from coaxials to single rotor 450's is not that hard... if you connect everything before you take off. But, now I'm thinking it would be well worth the money to use the CB180D or 180Q as the next step up. The SR was a washout... but since these Walkera's are fixed pitch, it is much like the BOL to fly. I hear thunder! Grrrr... well, there's too much wind anyway. After/if it stops, I'll try to get some video of the 180D. Hope you're doing well!
Spiros you should start teaching little Spiros to fly now. By the time he's your age... he'll have to teach you to fly on 12000g radios and well, heck. My son just sent me a video of a new quad copter. There is no transmitter! You use your Iphone to fly it! You can program what you want it to do through the cell phone, then set it off and watch first person view through the cell phone!!! This is the first reason I've found to own an Iphone. LOL!
Buzz
Well in that case, as I read what you`re saying, I can tell: what suits you.
I think it`s this way. Some things simply do not like you, even if you like them.
This does not mean you must put your hands down on the 450.
Maybe it`s adjusted for someone else`s flying taste. And you must get it on your own. Example is the pitch and/or the thottle curve.
Anyway, some more patience and you`ll figure it out.
PS. This night is so calm that I could fly the Syma S107 outdoors...
Spiros