solar696

I agre with Jmir,
11.1V (15 or 20C) 3 cell lipo is the best , I use a 2200Mah( or is it 2100?) and it give plenty of flight time without worrying about running the lipo to the low volt limit and killing it.
I use a digital kithen timer ( set it 14-15 miutes) which gives out a loud beeping sound when the the times, then I just land it.
It is important that you program your ESC to lipo bat spec ( it is easy) drop me a PM and I can send you the instructions)

SJMILLER

Hey guys,
Thanks for the input. I went ahead and just ordered the recommended 3cell 2100mah li-po. I have enjoyed this plane for a long time with the stock battery, but now its like getting a brand new plane. Hovers at half throttle, climbing inverted flat spins, absolutely incredible power. I need to do some tweaking to the plane to get all the 3d out of it I want, but I have to say this was absolutley worth the upgrade. Thanks for the input!
Stan

tclaridge

I was wondering which prop folks are using with the LiPo? SJMiller, you seem to be getting more power than I am. Which prop are you using?

Ralph L.

I just got one of these Typhoon 2 planes I fly nitro planes now. Can some one please tell me how long it should take the battery to charge up. Its been on the charge for about two hours so far and the red light is still flashing. Also I hooked up the battrey to the plane to check out the radio settings and the plane makes a loud humming noise is this normal??? Thanks

RCHubbub

I have two parkzone lipo chargers and these are my observations using a watt meter on how they work.

The charger starts out at the current it is set to and will charge the battery up to about 90%, and then the charge rate will drop to about 250mA while balancing the battery pack. Depending on the size of the pack, it can be in this mode for an hour or more before charging is complete. So for a completely discharged battery charging at a 1C rate, the parkzone charger will take two or more hours to fully complete its charge. However, once its "fast" charge is completed, the battery is sufficiently charged and usually balanced well enough to take it off charge and go fly with it if needed.

The loud humming noises are probably the whinning noise created by the digital servos. As long as the control surfaces are not binding, this noise from digital servos is usually quite common.

Ralph L.

Thanks for the help RCHubbub this thing flys well. With the chargeing issue they had the sticker for the amp setting on wrong. When it was turned all the way down it was pointing at 1.5 amp. But it realey was at .3 so things got better after that. Now I have one more question for you guys. I tried to put my Futuba receiver in this plane and everything works great but the motor wont run. Its something with the ESC but I am not sure how to program it to work with the receiver. As soon as I plug the old RX in it works fine. Can someone help me with this please? I want to use my Futaba 6EXA with this as I do with all my planes.

RCHubbub

Since everything else is working, it just sounds like the motor is not arming. To arm it, make sure the throttle gimble is all the way down and then make sure the throttle trim is also brought all the way down. When the motor arms, you should hear three quick beeps from the eflite esc.

Ralph L.

Again RCHubbub you have pointed me in the right direction. That was the problem now that the trim is set all the way down on - side it works. Your the man thanks.

nerdc0re79

clearview or fms typhoon 2 does anybody has it?if not somebodyshould make one for clearview, got the t 28 today and i am wondering i someone has thetyphoon 2 on clearview rc

WingIT

My Feedback: (1)

Anyone have any Ideas on a different motor set up for a Typhoon. I have an old one that the geared assembly finally ate itself up, and is to craced up to mess with anymore. I cut about 1.5" of foam off the nose to get to solid material again, and would like to put a ply firewall and some kind of outrunner set up, that will run on the stock esc, and a 2100 mah lipo. Anyone hav any motor suggestions?

Thanks,

nerdc0re79

use a eflite 480. still have the 25 esc. use that ..that might work.

clipper

Dose any one know where to buy the Typhoon pnp at a discount price?

WingIT

My Feedback: (1)

I wish I woud have checked before I cut the front of my plane off, but does anybody know where these planes are suppose to balance at?


Thanks,

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

Here is my recent conversion to an E-flite Park 480 outrunner motor.
Have not flown it yet since it has been so cold lately, but tomorrow it is supposed to go back up to the 40's and will try it then.
Based on initial tests, it appears the 480 is way much and a 450 should be plenty -- I will confirm after I fly it.
Also, I miscalculated and cut the cowl back way too much. I will purchase another cowl and cut it more accurately.
Have not tried it yet, but I do believe a 450 would fit nicely without having to modify the cowl.
Anyway, here are the photos I took during conversion.

WingIT

My Feedback: (1)

I finished mine up, and it fly's like a rocket, maybe a bit overpowered.

Balance feels a bit off, but Its fun to fly.

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I just couldn't wait, so I flew in the cold and it did very well.
As I suspected, a little too much power with the Park 480, so I just flew it at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle most of the time. Also, a little nose heavy and had to do some trimming. So, I need to spend some time balancing it again since it does not hover as well compared to stock form. Had to give it down elevator on inverted flight to keep the nose level while before, it just flew with hardly any adjustment at all.
At full throttle it was too fast and was afraid wings may not take that much force, so I was careful on loops. One big difference is the knife edge. With the added speed knife edges have improved tremendously, so I was impressed with that. Had to give it a little up elevator for a smooth landing while before, it would almost land itself. Again, I need to work on the balancing. I hate to add weight to it, so will try other ways first.
What I'm hoping for is no more stripped gears and bent shafts. The Typhoon is the only gear-driven plane I have and, since I fly a lot (almost daily), those gears just wear out too soon for me.

nerdc0re79

not bad 480 hop up. might do the same with mine. maybe a power 10 brushless with 45A esc

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I found the right combination: I replaced the 12X6 APC prop with a 11X5 APC prop and that made a lot of difference. It still flies a lot faster than stock, great knife edges, loops, much quieter, etc and batteries last a little longer. Also, added small weight on the tail and it is back to hovering as before along with very smooth landings. I reinforced the wing set up by using a special glue that does not fully harden in case I have to take them off later on. This ensured a permanent, tighter fit instead of just relying on that small screw holding the wings together. I got the glue at a Michaels stores. It comes in a tube and it is called "Hold the Foam".

I'm very satisfied with this conversion and finally got rid of the gear/shaft problems created by those rough landings on windy days.

WingIT

My Feedback: (1)

What is the kind of glue your using.

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

It's called "Hold the Foam" and it's available at any Michaels craft stores. Attached is photo.

BCKoots

I have been out of the flying scene for a while, but I saw a Typhoon 2 at my lhs and thought it looked great. I flew it on the sim and like how it flies as well. I am only concerned about radio and electronics quality for that price. have you guys had any problems?

solar696

Mine(original typhoon) is about 1.5 years old still has the stock motor and ESC, 1 servo went out, but like because of a crash damaged it. I switched the TX and RX to futaba just because it hold all my planes setting in memory, has end point and exponential adjustment, but I recall that the radio actually was decent. Some users have complained of ESC burning up and motors dying, but could be caused by improper set up, example: I noticed on mine that the wires coming out of the motor were very close, crushed to the motor housing, insulation could have been slightly damaged just enough to cause a short. Also, the ESC is showed into a small tunnel in the fuse often clogged with styrofoam pieces which restricts airflow to zero. I carved out the tunnel to allow for better air flow. Rudder and elevator hinges are stiff from the factory; cutting longer slots will make it loose therefor easing the load on the servo, giving it a longer lifespan.
just a few ideas.
I love flying the TY.

PS: after the original purchase and reading feedback from others I bought a stock motor and ESC on ebay, cheap just to have a back up parts on hand when needed.
they are still sitting in the basket waiting to be used. :-)

jmir

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with solar696. I am on my second Typhoon (the original). Although I have seen lots of negative comments, I have never had problems with Parkzone electronics. The problem with the stiff elevator and rudder has been solved on the new Typhoon. Atso, it comes with better servos. It is also advisable to clear the area where the ESC is to increase air flow. Also, I taped the leads coming out of the motor since I had noticed insulation had peeled of in spots and that's not good.

Until I purchased a Spektrum system, I had switched my other planes to the typhoon RX so I could use only one transmitter. That included a Stryker 27B, a Parkflyers Cessna 182, and a Parkzone J-3 Cub. It is still working very well. I do like the Spektrum better because it is much more versatile and I can store up to 10 planes. Using the Parkzone transmitter, I had to trim each plane I flew at the beginning of each flight. Not so with the Spektrum system. Also, no frequency conflicts at the field which is a big plus, in my opinion.

I still enjoy flying the Typhoon and I've had it for a very long time.

BCKoots

great, thanks for your help guys. I am now the proud owner of a Typhoon 2 3D! I will fly it tomarrow. I will take your advise and clean out ESC area.

iamman711

Hey all I have 2 questions. I just purchased the RTF version that comes with lipo, charger, radio, and receiver and have 2 concerns:

1) My battery lipo charger takes more than 4 hours.. actually I've still been waiting for it to show a solid green light to indicate charging is complete. All I get is blinking red and green lights (normal charging plus conditioning). How long does it take to charge completely? 5 hours? I unplugged it and tested voltage with voltmeter and the voltage was around 12 volts which means its good to go, but why doesnt the green light go solid for me like its supposed ta.

2) I am really concerned about my upcoming maiden flight because I don't have a quality radio and receiver. I've read the reviews on rcuniverse and I want to know if problems with interference, etc .happens to everyone or just some people. Does anyone use the radio and receiver that comes with the RTF? How does it perform for you? I don't want to spend $300 on a new radio because I'm tight on money right now. I don't want to buy a $200 radio because you know what they say buy cheap buy twice. Aye dillemna, unless of course someone can tell me they haven't had problems with the stock transmitter/receiver.

Thanks in advance!