closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

you and me both and i am sure a lot of other's.i would realy like to have a twin in my AJ Slick also.

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

Just got my engine yesterday.

On the stock muffler where is point where they break?

Gunny

racerman27410

the old V1 mufflers were breaking at the exhaust port connection... that piece was stamped.

the new mufflers have a solid piece of metal at this connection and should be a lot stronger.

Time will tell.

3136

That sounds good mighty9, did you get the standard exhaust with your motor as well?
It would be good to compare the two, especially with rpm numbersand db readings, perhaps someone at your club could help you with that?

I found when starting mine it liked to be choked every time, when done that way hand starting was in two or three flips every time.
I choke with 1/8 throttle flip till pops, take of choke flip till starts, no need for a starter.
Let me know if that works for you.

Regards Mark

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

Well in my install there is no way to run the stock muffler as it hits the firewall. Only club i belong to is me and the dry lake i fly off of.With the can its really quiet with no ringing All you hear is prop noise.I tried choking mine and hand flip but it will never pop . It starts instantly with the starter.Mine has very little compression .Ill get a tach soon and post some numbers. After the first run of the engine i noticed a vacuum leak around the reed block [ you could watch the fuel bubble out of the gasket area].I figured this was the problem with hand starting.I sealed the gaskets one of which had shrunk and still no hand start.After 5 flights 3 of which ended in dead stick i think ill go through the carb.When it died one time it went rich and i leaned the low speed needle an 1/8 turn and it ran fine.Then 2 flights later it died in the air and i had to richen the needle back up so i think there is some FOD in the carb.I filter my fuel going into the tank and the tank was a new one but maybe something got in there.When this thing runs it runs very well so ill see if i can find the issue.I am no way faulting this engine yet as maybe i got some dirt in it somehow.I dont like the low compression though.Also keep in mind i have 10 other gas engine ranging from 20cc to 150cc and have experience tuning gas engines and 2 stokes in general.I built 2 stroke kart engines for years that i won many races with .Im sure it will be just some FOD in the carb that slipped by me or the factory.

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

Ok heres is what i found the mesh screen in the carb was plugged with clear stuff that i have no idea where it could have come from. I also found the rear 2 cylinder screws were loose.So i figured i would bull the other 2 and remove it to check the rings.Good or bad depends on how you look at it was that the ring was stuck in the groove near the anti rotate pin.There was a small burr in the groove from where the pin was pushed in.I removed the ring and took a fine stone and dressed the burr.Everything inside looked very clean and shiny .I reassembled it and viola compression .It popped on the second hand flip with the choke on and then started on the next flip with the choke off.It repeatedly starts on the first flip now .Never more than 3 flips . I am happy it was an easy fix.I will let the seller know of this but i think it was just one that got thru so i wouldnt worry . As soon as i get a new tach ill post some numbers.
Cris

3136

Hi mighty9, that's a shame you had to go through that.
Didn't the dealer test run the engine before sending it out?
The Australian dealer does.
Some people wouldn't have the skill to diagnose and fix a problem like that.
I bet you noticed a big jump in power when you got the ring to seat.

Regards Mark

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks racerman. I have the updated muffler. Though the joints look like they are "paste" welded and not an actual weld bead. But I will keep my eye on it.

I bought my engine from ibcinyou here in the U.S. and mine was test run somewhere and the cylinder head was shrink wrapped "factory sealed" I guess.

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

Well mine was shrink wrapped too and i bought it from Mike @ IBCINYOU as well . Mine had been run as the cylinder and ports had discolored. Mine also has the newer muffler but like i said firewall clearance is at a premium in the Hemplel cub i have so ill try it on another plane someday.Im sure if i had contacted Mike he woulda had me send it back for a replacement.I like the tinkering part as im retired and need to keep busy lol .

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

OK i went and flew again today . 2 tanks and it ran flawless lots more power great idle.Last flight and all that goodness went away . About 300 feet up the radio went into fail safe and cut the engine. Since it was a cub it just floated straight ahead .Well the radio came back and i landed i have no idea how..On the ground everything checked out .Batteries fine ,range check fine .Tried to hand start engine and no go .Started engine with my starter and all heck broke loose, all control surface went wild and fail safe engaged again .So i get home and remove optical kill switch and still have glitching.Replace receiver same glitching.Replaced spark plug and ohm checked ground on ignition .All A ok < still glitched grrrrr. Grabbed another ignition i had from another engine and no more glitching and engine hand starts again .I checked and couldnt see or hear and arcing so im thinking something inside went bad.I put the stock ignition back on and it glitches so i know its the ignition.I guess the ignition was the problem all along .Although it runs much better after fixing the ring lol .Ignition is mounted to the firewall with foam underneath and i doubt it could have overheated as i had the cowl off..

STUKA BARRY

Well, no flying this weekend. Yah, its been mid 60's, but the Canadian front coming down has brought the winds. It 15-20mph and threatining rain. I really wanted to hear what my muffler sounds like in the air with the mod I did to it. I could fire it up in the yard, but its what it sounds like in the air that counts, maybe next weekend. I will keep you all posted. By the way, mine was shrink wrapped in the box too. I have yet to do anything to this engine other than run it, bar the crap for a muffler, and its a powerhouse for such a little package.

3136

Hi mighty9, did you get the updated ignition with the different resistor in the plug cap?

I ran mine again yesterday, all went well. 19x8 hawk prop at 7500 wot.

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

I have no idea which ignition i got . Is there a serial number or model number designation to determine which is which?

3136

Have a look at my post 223 on page 9.
It has a pic of the old resistor which has a possibilty of failure.
The only way to tell is pull your plug cap apart to see what resistor is in there.
However I don't know if that may void any warranty you may have with your supplier, contact them first to be sure.
I put a rcexl cap kit in mine which has a totally different resistor which I assume is designed to take the heat stresses better.

Regards Mark

PS I hope that's all your problem is, let us know how you go with it.

aussiesteve

Can anyone confirm that these are in fact Genuine RCExcel ignitions supplied with the PTE 36?
There are a couple of other companies in China that have poorly copied the RCExcel. There was a thread about them a while back

Might explain the ignition issues people are having.

And before any suppliers make the claim that they are RCExcels, what proof do they have ?

Ibcinyou!

My Feedback: (850)

PTE makes there own ignition module, It is not made by RCEXL.
The resistor issue has been corrected on the new modules. The way to identify is the new ones have PTE and lettering on them.

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

On the ignition . or on the resistor ? Thanks Mike ps i havent taken mine apart yet to look at the resistor.

3136

Hi Ropomond, they have on their web site that they manufacture their own http://www.ptepower.com/Product1.asp
It appears they selected the wrong resistor in the plug cap.
Mine was working fine, I decided to change to a rcexlplug cap kit(which has their resistor)for peace of mind.

Mike, do the new ones have PTE stamped on the plug cap?
So if it isn'tlabelled on the plug cap it's an old version is that right?

Rocketman_

You are right. It appears that this thread may eventually become the source of good info on canisters for 30 to 36cc engines. RCU search yields little info on canisters in this size range.

On the subject of the new PTE ignition module, the PTE label is on the module case. The old module was naked and had no label on it.

ghoffman

My Feedback: (3)

Anyone going to try a pipe?

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

I got a new one then. Mighty9 how about yours? Wrapped with decal or naked?

Gunny

Antique

My Feedback: (4)

the animation shows an open bearing next to the crank with a seal ahead of it...The front bearing is apparently just shielded with to front crankshaft seal...How long will a shielded bearing last with no way to get lube to it ??
Looks like PTE cloned RC EXL but not as well as RC EXL cloned C&H

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

My ignition is the new model . I just went ahead and ordered a new rcexl ignition .I also ordered a tach so ill get some rpm numbers when it gets here.

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

I have ordered an rcxcel cap and have an extra rcxcel ignition module on hand.

Rocketman_

The ibcinyourc.com web site shows a link ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_uYGVmi9cjM ) to a video of a Goldwing YAK 55 powered by a PTE36R turning a 20x10 prop. A 20x10 prop? Is such a big fat prop the right one for the PTE36 on a 3D plane?
A couple of days ago I ran a Xoar 20x6 and the RPM was down by 1000 from a Xoar 19-3DA. I wonder how low my RPM would drop with a 20x10? I know that my restrictive muffler is a power robber and that is why I'm seeking alternative exhaust systems.
Does anyone know what RPM they are turning with a 20x10 prop on the wide open stock muffler?