secret_squirrel

Ok, so a quick update, but first, Happy Thanksgiving to everyone!!! The weather was absolutely perfect today. I flew the pee pee out of airplanes....got home after dark. I did fly my extra 330. Here is what I did for today's flights:

1) put a volt regulator on the ignition. I have been flying with A123s without a regulator because several forums suggest there would not be an issue. I figured for under 10.00, and because the DLE website says don't exceed 6 volts, it was a no brainier. Who knows if this fixed anything

2) richened up the low end. I had done this a while back when the weather was terrible and tested it on the ground. I was hopeful I had fixed the issue because it cranked right up.

And the results are...........drum roll.........bam.....idle is almost perfect. On the first flight, after landing, it seemed to slowly drop rpms till it died but the idle was perfect on landing. I leaned it a couple clicks and the second flight was almost perfect.

On on the second flight, after hand starting, the engine would cut out when advancing the throttle. I left the low end alone and waited for it to warm up and everything seemed fine. the landings and this setting were perfect though.

Is this scenario pretty common with gas engines, not being responsive until they warm up? I believe my XYZ 55 twin used to do it but haven't noticed lately. Who knows, anyway, I am happy, happy, happy.

thanks to everyone that assisted.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, normal. These things don't have an automatic choke that will richen things for you while cold, then go to normal as full operating temp is reached. You start out cold a little lean, but it comes into range as the engine warms.

It is also a sign that you don't want to try running it any leaner than you are. Many will run them a little richer than where you are at, as it makes for a little better manners when it comes to starting, and provides a reliable idle (without quitting).

Your call. You can keep it on the edge of lean as you are, or let it run a little sloppy (rich).

Proper input voltage depends totally on the ign module you're running. If it's the newer 8.4v, you absolutely don't need to do anything to run direct from an LiFe. Even if it's the earlier module, many are running those direct as well (without issue).

Bottom line, glad to hear you're happy with the way it's running! -Al

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

You are very close to where you need to be, but I agree, I would richen the idle just a tiny little bit more for better overall manners and a more reliable idle. I am really talking a little bit here; like the width of a screw driver blade, no more. It's just a fact of life with these engines that the idle has to be a little richer than an ideal, smooth perfect setting for best ALL around handling and performance. You are on the ragged edge of being too lean at idle right now and it could eventually cause an idle hang problem or dead sticks.

AV8TOR

secret_squirrel

ok....bam....we are there. A couple of weeks ago, during a flight, the engine almost stalled when the plane went inverted. I landed and pulled off the canopy and noticed a small amount of fuel around the front of the tank. I pulled the tank and noticed the screw that holds on the cap wasn't tightening down. New screw and help with re-tuning the engine and I now have an almost perfect idle. Over the past couple weeks I have played with the low end and have it the best I can get. The only issue I have is after landing, it will slowly drop the idle till it hits about 1300 rpms and it will just sit there and put put away at around 1300. The idle on landing I can't confirm but I would guess it is somewhere between 1600-1800. Tons of perfect landings that are easy to control. After noticing the drop in idle upon landing, I just slowly added trim until it stayed at a constant 1300. I am guessing this change is either from the change in pressure from flight to ground. Either way, I have fallen back in love with my DLE 55.

Also, starting has become very consistent. About 10 flips with the choke on till it pops then choke off and it is purring away after about 2-3 flips.

Thanks everyone and HAPPY NEW YEAR.

MTK

Several years ago when I was new to gassies, I noticed that when to LS needle was set a bit lean, the engine just wouldn't transition right. It would often die ; it woulnt die every time so this threw me a little. I did a little bench running and realized that the LS didn't need much richening to stay running but it needed some. This became my tuning procedure since then.....turn the LS in until it wouldn't transition and richen from there about the width of a screwdriver at a time until transition cleaned up. The setting of course would be revisited as the HS Needle was tuned. This procedure was discovered on an OS33 but has been applied on all of my gassies from 15cc to 58cc withe same good results.

edit: Walbros only......forgot to mention an important action. Throttle advancing through midrange needs to be very fast. A Lean low end will nearly always die. Richening a bit cleans things up.

secret_squirrel

i love the advice as I am still learning. When I read your post an old Journey album (I think) came to mind. Play along with me, the album name was, "I can tune a piano, but I can't tune a fish". Anyway, I can tune a nitro engine like no tomorrow. Theses gassers, I am still learning.

Thanks for the advice.....HAPPY NEW YEAR.