Ernie Misner

Thank you for introducing your new line of engines. I have a question for you: Has your company experimented at all with using an L shaped or "dykes" ring on the piston? They were popular years ago but I do not see them much anymore. I think there would be an advantage of lower drag with that type of ring.

Thank you,

Ernie Misner

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

I have six flights on the 60cc so far....awesome power, quick transition, easy to start. Not sure if it will rival my DA60, it turns a 22x12 3 blade 7000 rpm....we shall see

ramoooo

My Feedback: (6)

Nice to hear that. have you tried a 24 prop like vess or so.
I'm wondering if it runs better on a 23 or 24... I know a lot of people are running vess 24 on DA

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

Never have used vess...mejzlik, Beila, Menz, and XOAR are my favorites. I don't care for the pitch system on Vess props

ramoooo

My Feedback: (6)

when you compare the DA 60 and the EME 60. are you getting similar readings ?
it would be nice to compare the two side by side

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

I can say this for certain .... EME60 is not a DA 60 copy. They only resemble in appearance . I have not had the 22x12 2 blade on the EME yet but will soon. The DA 60 turns the 22x12 two blade7400 rpm and 3 blade 7000rpm.... I haven't tach'd the EME yet

ramoooo

My Feedback: (6)

please keep us updated.... I cannot wait to see the comparison. 

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

this is good now we will see a direct comparison between the two engines.
when i bought mine Milehigh RC had six engines,i see now he has sold out and more due in on the 11-28.

n8622t

My Feedback: (8)

ok the EME60 turned the 22x10 at 7040 on the ground after about 3/4 gallon of fuel...get another quart through it and try the 22x12

Arizona Flyer

My Feedback: (14)

I just ordered the EME 120. I was on the fence to pony up almost $1500 for the DA 120 to add to my collection of 4 DAs, a JC 120, or the EME 120 when I landed on this thread. I have a few thoughts about all this so I wanted to share.

DA in my experience is the best. I have not tried a 3W or MVVS as Jeame mentions earlier so I cannot comment on these motors. I live 1 hour from DA so DA loyalty is strong in this area. However, money is an issue. I just tallied up $6k in my 40% SBach and I went cheap on that motor too, DLE 170. This stuff is expensive and why we are paying $1500 (w/exhaust, tax, etc) for a 120cc two-stoke motor still baffles me, however this is my hobby and therefore I look the other way and get out my credit card. Now that I plugged DA, I will also say that I am disappointed with them too. I do not know for sure, however I would guess a large amount of their income comes from the military for UAV motor sales. I appreciate all they do for the hobby (giving away DAs for prizes and sponsoring events is awesome), however there are some things I would do different. For example, there is no upgrade path from the 100s to the 120s. The pistons, crankcase, and cylinders are completely different. It would have been awesome if I could have sent my 4 DAs to them with lets say $300 each to have them converted to 120s. That is not possible because the total re-design. Also, it would have been nice to use my existing headers and canisters, however the new exhaust is round. So I asked them if they would take my 100s in on upgrade to the 120s (they could refurb my 100s and sell them), however they would have nothing of it. So the non-sponsored RC'er still pays a premium and forced into new engines. It's a shame there is not more customer loyalty (I didn't say service, the service is impeccable).

Back to EME, Jeame has handled criticism with grace and I appreciate that. He stands behind his motor and has responded to all the rants (while using excellent English may I add). So good job Jeame on helping me with my decision. I ordered from Mile High, ability to return it if not happy and warranty for 18mo cannot go wrong....

I will post my results after trying the new motor. I will be removing a DA 100 from an Aeroworks 260 and replacing it with the EME 120.

Steve

ramoooo

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Steve,

its great you wetn with the EME 120. I feel the same way. I have the DA 60 and its not compatible with the DA50. I dont kno why they make it that way. I dont feel like upgrading is an issue cause I bought the 50 & 60 knowing that. but what pisses me of is why do they have different exhaust openings and not compatible..... i guess htey want to sell more exhausts and accessories.

I'm really interested in hearing more about the EME 120. I'm putting my first 100cc plane together and another 50cc. and I will be getting the EME 60 & 120 somtime at the begging of the year once I get the funds together for those...

Just likeCLOSETGUY didI will be going with the Bowman rings.

please keep us posted

thanks

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

when going to the Bowman ring,just like Frank states and EME, USE DINO OIL FOR BREAK IN.i just got four gallons of redline at 32-1 and the ring still hasn't seated. snow is flying now but the next time i fly it will be DINO OIL.

Arizona Flyer

My Feedback: (14)

I sent Frank Bowman an email asking for some rings. Also Mile High has already shipped the 120! Quick service... I should have it sometime mid week and ready by next weekend. I probably need some new props, largest 100 prop I have is a Mejzlik 28x10.

I am in Southern AZ so we fly year round (sorry closetguy). My website is www.flyinggolem.com for those who want to track the results.

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

i bet you will have it before that,i talk to him on a Saturday at 1:00 pm ohio time and had it setting on my door step Monday by 10:00 am.

3136

I just found this http://www.sdshobby.net/special-elec...e-p-11462.html
They say it can fit a dle 55 eme 55/60 da50/60
It would be nice if it was a bit lighter.
Also like to see one for the eme35

Arizona Flyer

My Feedback: (14)

I got my EME 120 today (ordered it on Friday, today is Monday, crazy fast) from Mile High RC. Apparently EME stands for Eagle Master Engine and comes with some cool decals. At first look the fit and build is pretty good, same or better than a DLE. I first removed the cylinders. Nothing significant to report, everything looks as it should. I thought a couple of the bolts were a little looser than I would have liked and no visible lock tight. By comparison, the crankcase bolts were well tightened. The crank and rod bearings looked good, well oiled. Something interesting to note is the piston is stamped "EME 57". I am curious what this means, hoping it does not mean 57cc vs 60. Then I moved on to removing the carburetor and checking for reed valve issues that Frank Bowman said to look for. The reed case is a composite/plastic material and appears to be well molded, no burrs or anything to note. I do have one concern, although it may turn out to be nothing. The surface between the reed case and the carburetor looks like the material injection point and those points were ground down below the flat surface. The saving grace is the gasket. If I have any vacuum issues, that is where I will look. Also the carburetor screws were less tight than I would have liked. I ordered a set of Bowman rings so I am going to wait until those come in before re-assembly. The stock rings look good though, small ring gap with an alignment pin for centering. If Frank's rings were not so good, I would not replace them. Lastly, the manual is great. Well written and actually useful. Plan is to fly this Sunday.

Ernie Misner

Good report, thanks. Are you going to break it in with the same oil you'll be running?

ramoooo

My Feedback: (6)

 can you please explaine what issues are you refering to in the carb ? " reed valve issues that Frank Bowman said to look for."

I'm interested in knowing that please

also I cannot wait to hear some feedback on this engine ?

thanks

Ernie Misner

The chinese reed blocks sometimes have imperfections from the mold process and the reeds don't sit totally flat and shut completely off at rest. Disassemble the reed block and using fine sand paper on a piece of glass or flat surface smooth the surfaces. When re installing the reeds if they hang open a hair turn them over. Also remove any burrs from the little plate that holds the reeds down, and chamfer slightly around the screw holes so everything goes on nice and flat. Use loctite when putting the screws back in that hold the reeds in place. This little clean up modification can result in a better idle and easier starting. I don't think it effects the top end much.

ramoooo

My Feedback: (6)

great thanks.

when you use lock tight on the engine bolts do you use the blue or red one ?

thanks and looking forward to hearing your opinion in the EME vs. the DA

thanks

closetguy

My Feedback: (13)

my carb screws were what i would call less than tight too.the reeds on the 60 are four petal and all were laying flat and the matting surface was smooth.i did not tighten down the carb bolts realy tight,just snug,didn't want to distort the reed block.
by all means use dino oil for break in,i have four gals.through mine with 32-1 redline and the ring is still not seated,so there should be a little more power gain yet.be interesting to see how your rings fit compared to mine,i had a very tight .002 ring gap.
i don't see why the 120 won't run just as good as the 60,after taking the 60 apart i thouht it was well made.

Arizona Flyer

My Feedback: (14)

Hi Ernie,

No, I will use non-synthetic (Dino-saur) oil for a couple gallons and then switch to Redline and Iridium plugs. There are thoughts around my field that running Dino oil in Chinese motors is preferred all the time but I don't because the mess 30:1 makes. I take the chance with 80:1 Redline and Amsoil because I like how my plugs and plane looks. That might be wrong but I have flown the crap out of Chinese motors with synthetic without a problem. To each their own I guess, if it breaks I will buy another one. If I get a year of thrashing out of any motor, I consider it getting my money's worth. I fly a lot too.

Steve

Arizona Flyer

My Feedback: (14)

Ramoooo,

Red Lock tight is fairly permanent. The only thing I recommend red on is the two screws inside the carburetor, one holding the airflow plate and the other for the choke. They are already GTG on the EME, done at the factory. Blue is used when you need something to stay put that you may remove later. I like to use that or at least some aluminum anti-seize. I joke that my Heli's are painted blue with lock tight. Nothing seems to stay put on a Heli.

Steve

ramoooo

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Steve,

did you get a chance to fly or test the EME 120 ?

Arizona Flyer

My Feedback: (14)

Hi Ramoooo,

Sorry for not updating you. I overlooked one problem, the bolt pattern on the 120 is the same as the 150 (not the same as the 100) and I didn't have any non-drilled props. As a result, I ordered a 28x12 Menz that I got yesterday and will be trying out, looks like next weekend unless I can sneak out sooner. You will need a new spinner back plate too to accommodate for the larger hole pattern.

So far this is what I can tell you... The EME 120 is 11 oz lighter than my DA 100. The EME weighed in at 5lb 4oz and my DA 100 weighs 5lb 15oz (no mufflers or ign). I had to move everything I could forward so the CG would work out. The exhaust bolt pattern is the same as my DA 100 (rectangular holes). I removed the stock rings and replaced them with Frank Bowman rings. Interesting to note, Frank's rings increased the compression already and I haven't even started her yet! What else... the throttle arm on the carburetor is on the same side but instead of hanging down, the arm points up so I had to move my throttle servo. There is a possibility I could go out tomorrow afternoon weather permitting.


Steve