mintor engines
#151
Getting it right especially when setting up a warbird is vitally important so take your time, pay attention to the smallest of details and don't be hesitant to ask for help whenever you think you need it. The effort you put in in getting it right will manifest itself in the satisfaction and enjoyment it will give you in having a successful maiden flight and beyond.
#152
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: quincy,
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I got to the point of trying to start the mintor 22.
but when I tried to fuel it up , fuel pored out of the breather pipe, I thought he ( I bought it used on a P51) put the lines on back wards, but when I tried to put fuel in the overflow, same thing.
i's just going to pull it apart and I will run the mintor on a stand before putting it back on the plane.
I am tired of half way of doing it anyway.
sticks
but when I tried to fuel it up , fuel pored out of the breather pipe, I thought he ( I bought it used on a P51) put the lines on back wards, but when I tried to put fuel in the overflow, same thing.
i's just going to pull it apart and I will run the mintor on a stand before putting it back on the plane.
I am tired of half way of doing it anyway.
sticks
#153
Join Date: Jun 2003
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he put the tank in upside down, guess he planed to fly inverted a lot!!!! Lol
there are two pickup lines with clunks , plus the air makeup line. did I miss something?
there are two pickup lines with clunks , plus the air makeup line. did I miss something?
Last edited by Stick 40; 03-22-2016 at 03:49 PM. Reason: another question
#154
I use a three line fuel tank system for all my gas engines. One with a felt filtered clunk as the feed line to the carb, one with a regular clunk as a fill line and a vent line. Some folks use a fltered clunk on the fill line but that's a bit of an over kill in my book.
I use a 3 line system as opposed to a two line with one as the vent and the feed line having a Tee in it for fuelling is a potential problem point which can introduce air into the system
I use a 3 line system as opposed to a two line with one as the vent and the feed line having a Tee in it for fuelling is a potential problem point which can introduce air into the system
Last edited by karolh; 03-23-2016 at 07:32 AM.
#155
Join Date: Jun 2003
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I use a three line fuel tank system for all my gas engines. One with a felt filtered clunk as the feed line to the carb, one with a regular clunk as a fill line and a vent line. Some folks use a fltered clunk on the fill line but that's a bit of an over kill in my book.
I use a 3 line system as opposed to a two line with one as the vent and the feed line having a Tee in it for fuelling is a potential problem point which can introduce air into the system
I use a 3 line system as opposed to a two line with one as the vent and the feed line having a Tee in it for fuelling is a potential problem point which can introduce air into the system
this tank was BAD, one of the lines went into the back of the tank (to long ) and was bending around all over the place. neither of the lines had a felt clunk on them.
This whole installation is poor, he cut big holes in the fire wall instead of stand offs. The carb went into the hole in the fire wall for clearance.
do you pad the fuel tank with foam, like we do with glow?
just more fun for me, I have the engine off now and am putting it on a mount to run it off the plane. I should have done that in the first place.
I have a lot of planes to fly, this is not stopping me from flying. Its just something to play around with and fix.
I know I am asking a lot of question, but this is such a great place for info. I like doing "it right" and don't mind the time to do it.
thanks
sticks
#156
The clunk on the fill line is to aid emptying the tank as without it the line would just float around inside the tank and make emptying it rather difficult. There is really no need to pad the tank with a layer of sponge but it certainly can't hurt anything, as one of the advantages of using a felt filtered clunk on the feed line is to eliminate the possibility of air bubbles going to the carb. Also the hole in the firewall to allow for adequate carb clearance is quite normal for rear carbed engines.
#157
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The clunk on the fill line is to aid emptying the tank as without it the line would just float around inside the tank and make emptying it rather difficult. There is really no need to pad the tank with a layer of sponge but it certainly can't hurt anything, as one of the advantages of using a felt filtered clunk on the feed line is to eliminate the possibility of air bubbles going to the carb. Also the hole in the firewall to allow for adequate carb clearance is quite normal for rear carbed engines.
I guess I just don't know about the hole in the firewall and fumes , fuel dirt, going back into the fuse?? I planed to put stand offs to bring the carb out and away from the fire wall.
so you leave a hole in the fire wall?
This guy did paint the whole of the inside of the fuse, guess that is why.
#158
I tend to keep some fuel in my tanks after every flying session as it helps to keep the in-tank tubing flexible, but every now and then I do empty them. The hole in the firewall thing in most cases is to aid in balancing the model by having the engine as far back as possible, but if that is not the case in your situation it's quite the norm to use standoffs. Painting the inside of the fuse ( fuel proofing) is commonplace and is protection against fuel spills like in the case of a broken line or tank.
Last edited by karolh; 03-24-2016 at 05:48 PM.
#159
Senior Member
I tend to keep some fuel in my tanks after every flying session as it helps to keep the in-tank tubing flexible, but every now and then I do empty them. The hole in the firewall thing in most cases is to aid in balancing the model by having the engine as far back as possible, but if that is not the case in your situation it's quite the norm to use standoffs. Painting the inside of the fuse ( fuel proofing) is commonplace and is protection against fuel spills like in the case of a broken line or tank.
Regarding firewall holes, yes, I always do that for a couple reasons. With rear carb locations, it's a simple way to maintain consistent air pressure around the carb. Aids carb breathing and mixture control in all plane attitudes. I also install a thin layer of foam on the fuse side of the hole to keep gas spit and dirt or oil out. Velcro keeps it ready for the inevitable accessing that would be needed. I soft mount my engines so the soft mount takes the engine loads. The mount also has no center to match the firewall. The mount only needs enough firewall for the mounting bolts so the center of the firewall is just extra material and is not needed. The two things save 3-4 ounces.
Hope that helps you decide.
#160
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boy is this different that glow.
I started up the mintor 22 this afternoon, purred like a kitten. went thru about 1/2 tank. Wife was out there complaining about the noise, had to quit.
But went well except for that. very happy with the engine. now I can start mounting it back on.
sticks
I started up the mintor 22 this afternoon, purred like a kitten. went thru about 1/2 tank. Wife was out there complaining about the noise, had to quit.
But went well except for that. very happy with the engine. now I can start mounting it back on.
sticks
#162
boy is this different that glow.
I started up the mintor 22 this afternoon, purred like a kitten. went thru about 1/2 tank. Wife was out there complaining about the noise, had to quit.
But went well except for that. very happy with the engine. now I can start mounting it back on.
sticks
I started up the mintor 22 this afternoon, purred like a kitten. went thru about 1/2 tank. Wife was out there complaining about the noise, had to quit.
But went well except for that. very happy with the engine. now I can start mounting it back on.
sticks
Last edited by karolh; 03-26-2016 at 04:23 AM.
#163
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no, no trade in she is a good one. we have the grandsons and they were all in the back yard, so I got away with what I could.
yes I am planning to go gas and elect. I still have a supply of glow fuel to go thru and the engines to do it. don't know if I will ever get away from glow completely. I won't say never, as it could happen with glow. the fuel could become very hard to get and /or expensive .
the last time I got some, we went together and bought 55 gal. and it cost about $11 a gal. But that is a pain to do.
I kind of hope I am over the hump on working with gas. I know there will still be question.
I don't have a local guy to help, the one I have is very limited. He tries but I know he does not have all the answers
sticks
yes I am planning to go gas and elect. I still have a supply of glow fuel to go thru and the engines to do it. don't know if I will ever get away from glow completely. I won't say never, as it could happen with glow. the fuel could become very hard to get and /or expensive .
the last time I got some, we went together and bought 55 gal. and it cost about $11 a gal. But that is a pain to do.
I kind of hope I am over the hump on working with gas. I know there will still be question.
I don't have a local guy to help, the one I have is very limited. He tries but I know he does not have all the answers
sticks
#164
Hey Stick 40, I just stumbled across this old thread and wondered just how did you eventually make out with your transition to gas. By the way is your Mintor 22cc is alive and well and how did the engine perform ??
Karol
Karol
#165
Join Date: Feb 2009
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If I can jump into this thread please? I thought I would share a few experiences with my Mintor 22. I was looking around for a model to install it in and decided on the Revolver 70 as I had seen it on Youtube with a DLE 20 in it. I have always found the Mintor incredibly reliable, so no fear of dead-sticks on a new plane. I decided to install a cannister onto it with a s/s header. Anyway I put the thing together with the cannister mounted along the side of the fuse. Then I put it on the Cof G balancer to find that it needed 275g of weight in the tail end!
[I have found a neat way of manging my lead weight. I use old CF wing tube sections set in a hardwood block and pour the melted lead into this. I have different sizes of plugs so when it comes to balancing, I then mount a CF tube filled with the correct weight of plugs in the rear of the fuse.]
So having got it all set up then off to the flying field. Engine sounding great through the cannister ( a nice deep throaty sound)...and more than enough power!... I trimmed it for level flight - no issues there. So then I put it through some gentle aerobatics. I quickly realised to my horror that I had truly compromised what others say is a very nice sport aerobatic plane. It exhibited viscious tip stalling and spinning out of both outside and inside loops...
...only later did I read about the gyroscopic forces of all that weight in the tail...so despite having managed to fit this lovely engine into the beautiful airfarme, I realised the error of my ways! Over the last week, I have removed the engine and tail weight (1.9kg!!) and put in an electric 6 cell 5000mAh set up, turning a 17x8 beechwood prop (1.2kg). It flys beautfully....so the question now remains...what do I put my Minitor into, so I can get my fix of that throaty sound once again?
#166
Very sorry to hear that your Mintor 22 / Revolver combo has not worked out great for you as in my flying club we have a member with that exact model / engine combination and it's a very nice flying model with absolutely no bad habits. Considering that the Mintor 22cc is by no means a heavy engine maybe the additional weight of the header pipe and cannister style muffler might have just pushed it over the edge. Just curious, what was the all up weight of the model with the gas engine ??
My M22 engine is a silky smooth runner and turning a Xoar 17x6 wood prop hauls a 9.3 lb scratch built 69" span Extra 300 profile around quite well.
My M22 engine is a silky smooth runner and turning a Xoar 17x6 wood prop hauls a 9.3 lb scratch built 69" span Extra 300 profile around quite well.
Last edited by karolh; 10-30-2018 at 03:30 PM.