stevegauth30

Hi all. I am a long time glow flier and am ready to try my hand at gas engines. I have done quite a bit of reading up on it but am wondering if any one has tips or tricks to get me going a bit easier. Ok, so I will be setting up a Seagull Super Decathlon 120. So far I think I will go with a DLE 20 because I keep hearing nothing but good about DLE. I don't need unlimited vert. Or to hover, just some good ol scale flying. I know I need the yellow fuel lines and a gas bung, but what size tanks are you guys running?also, I need a RX batt. And ign. Batt. Right?it doesn't seem like a good idea to run my RX off the same battery as the ignition that may run it dry. Any thing you guys can think of would be greatly appreciated. BTW, I'm not asking so I don't have to do the foot work myself, it's just the little things that can make all the difference, the little things that manuals don't tell you. Thanks, Steve.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

There are several things that one needs to pay close attention to, I feel that your best bet would be to read the sticky for beginners at the top of the page. Prolly not what you wanted to hear, but I feel it is maybe the best advice one can give at this time. Then if you have specific questions ask them for a more defined answer.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I had one of those Citabrias with a 20cc RCG gasser in it. The vertical wasn't that bad! BUT, I'm going to be kind and just say it's not the best flying plane I've ever had - and I LIKE Citabrias! If you insist, brace the top of the rudder prior to breaking it off. Run a piece of music wire down the inside of the rudder post. Do not use CA on the W/S when the tape that holds it in place lets go. It will fog the W/S, making it look terrible from then on.

I think the sticky is a good place to start as well. While the planes don't change much, it seems like everything else does? I haven't been all the way through all that in a while. Some points I'm not sure are covered real well in there?

Bracing the tail and using metal gear servos are both good plans.
More and more are moving toward LiFe batteries to power both the receiver and ign. module. Very good performance and light weight.
Speaking of ign modules, optical switches controlled by your transmitter's LG switch to turn the ign. power on and off a good plan.
The gas carb does not respond to the stick in a linear manner like a glo does. Check out post #22 in the sticky for some info a lot of guys struggle with when first getting going with gas.
Regarding those gas lines, the use of a barb at EVERY connection, inside the tank and out, highly recommended! 1/8" compression fitting ferrules work great.

Welcome to gas, and best of luck! You're gonna love it! -Al

Mpizpilot

My Feedback: (45)

I know a lot of guys are using ibec so they can run just one battery, but myself I still run a separate battery and switch for the ignition. Another thing to consider is using either a remote ignition kill, such as the rcexl unit or a servo for the choke. Vibration is usually a bit higher on gassers and can in some instances cause radio/servo problems. Nothing worse then having a throttle servo fail and having to fly for 30 minutes till your gas runs out. Many events also require a way to kill the engine from the tx. Other then that, I feel gassers are easier to deal with then glow. Very little tuning involved, especially after they're broken in.

MTK

I was in your shoes about 4 years ago. I started with the SAP30cc and realized quickly how dependable the current gosolinestate of art has become.

I use and highly recommend the Tech Aero IBEC. For smaller planes, the weight savings alone is worth it.I use a 1780 ma 2S lipo battery and regulate it to 6.4 V for the airborne system. The Tech Aero IBEC further regulates that to 5.5 volts and that's what the CDI sees. I get about 75 minutes of flying per charge. Only 1 battery to maintain and feed.

Once you realize how simple and reliable, and most of all, safe and convenient this particular IBEC is, you will never go back. No more stooping behind a spinning prop to turn off an ignition switch. And if you ever had a runaway carb, the fact that you can shut the CDI off with the TX at any time you choose, is a very important feature you will appreciate in time. Arming/disarming the CDI with the TX is just very convenient.

A 20cc engine will not require more than about an 8 oz tank

I soft mount all my gas engines (as I did all my glow) so I can't tell you that they vibrate more or less. One thing certain, the early hard mounted bench running I did on the gasoline powered SAP30cc, had to have lower vibes than any glow engine in that size I ever played with. Just a well thought out, well balanced engine. And its field manners were terrific. I use the OS33 currently and it generates a bit more vibes, but is also quite a bit higher performing.