Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

 Definately retune.  I'm amazed it ran at all.  I did the same thing on my G62 awhile back.  At about 50% covered it wouldnt even start.  Kind of embarassing but makes good shop talk.  It happens, glad you found it.

Edwin

SRimer

Does anyone know the carb size for this engine?

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Walbro WT 805, 34/64" / 13.5mm venturi.

SRimer

Thank you.

cantw8tofly

My Feedback: (3)

Hey... My cowl cut into the spark plug wire on my ignition module .

It died in flight. Do you think i can cut the wire back and reconnect it to the boot or is my module toast?

I would like to fix it if i can.

cantw8tofly

My Feedback: (3)

Well i went ahead and tried to repair the spark plug lead and it worked.


I had to cut about an inch or so off then just put it back together the way it came apart.


I tested it and i got a nice spark with a good snap so im gonna mount it and test run the engine now.

ROCKY1405

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Guys:  I finally got the time to take my new engine to the field for a trial run.  I ran it for about an hour - 44 ounces of fuel went through it with 3 starts.  I varied the throttle a lot during the runs and in about 20 minutes it was running very consistently.  I found mine  likes to start backwards unless you give it a lot of throttle at start up.  By the last 20 minutes it would idle for 3 minutes without loading up and the transition was very nice with only a couple of "chuckles" now and then when going from low to the high speed jets.  I didn't have to do much fiddling with the carb needles to get it that way either.  I am running it with a 20X8 Xoar prop and Amzoil Saber Pro mixed at 50:1 because thats what my other gassers are burning.  On the test stand my engine is mounted upright so it doesn't start as easily as it will when its mounted inverted in a model but it still was not a hard starter.  It does like to be "wet" when it starts though!  With that prop, and with only a little bit of a rich "burble" on the top end of the throttle once in awhile, it turned 6400 to 6550 right out of the box and will idle reliably between 1900 and 2050 RPM's. Thanks to Jody's assistance, this new engine stayed leak-free and with no crankshaft bearing slop after being ran hard for a little over an hour with most of that running being at high throttle.  Now, to find a model to put it in once I get enough room in my shop for one more big model.  It swings that big prop with plenty of authority and even if it never gets any stronger - and it likely will, its a great running little motor - lightweigh and powerful.  A special THANK YOU to JediJody and VALLEY VIEW RC for their assistance!!   I'll be purchasing my next model from those guys, they give great service!! 
Best Regards,
Rocky 

saintcreed

My Feedback: (205)

I bought one of these engines (assembled)  this past  December when VALLEY VIEW RC had them on sale.....Nice running engine, ran it on the test stand with 32/1 oil ratio for 66 ounces of fuel, with a complete engine cool down after every 11 ounces...the first 2 tanks of fuel (22 ounces) the engine was ran at 2500 rpm's and then the next 22 ounces  it was ran at full throttle for 10-15 seconds ever so often..the last 22 ounces on the test stand I did some testing on the rpm's...with a Zinger Pro 20 x 6  idle around 1800 high 7700...little high on the high end so the only other prop I had was a Pro 20 x 10...way tooooo much prop...1600 on the idle but only 6400 on the high end...So I went out and got a Zinger Pro 20 x 8...still got the idle around 1650 and the high end 6750...mounted in on my 13 Pound Katana and started flying with it...like stated above, every now and then it wants to start backwards a couple of times then it's off to the races in the right direction...First couple of flights I had a little 4 cycling in the mid range that I couldn't get out by tweaking the needles so did a little reading (http://tech.flygsw.org/)and found, A very common problem with cowled in engines is  the air pressure in flight changes the "natural" pressure on the float diaphragm. So I did the modification they show at the link above...which is  to solder a piece of brass tubing where the vent is, and route the vent line to a better location, normally route it into the fuse going through the firewall.  Did this and it solved my midrange problem...I now have just shy of a gallon of fuel thru the engine and the last time out measured the static thrust with my trusty digital fish scales and  got a 18# reading with a high rpm of 6850..so that reading shows me the engine is still breaking in...it's picked up 100+-rpms since the reading I took at 66 ounces...If it keeps coming up on the rpm's I might get to that magic  number of 7200 rpm's and the thrust will come up, might even get around 20#'s +....another gallon and I'll change to synthetic oil at around 40/1..the only problem is it's so efficient on gas that's at least 10 more flights...have a 12 ounce tank and I can get a good 15 minute flight with fuel left over...

jedijody 
                  When can I expect the module to take a dive....sure hope it doesn't do it while I'm low and slow...anything to look for or notice before it happens? Also Jody, how much more fuel before one could see that magic number of 7200....if it's another 3-4 gallons, I'll have the plane wore out before I get the engine broke in... 10 flights per gallon x 5= 50 flights...

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

I have the Thor 45cc /crrc pro. I love it . It is in my g/p 27% cap 232. I had a few issues with it in the begining. I ended up puting a ch Ignition on it and made a ring to mount the timing sensor to. So now the timing is at 28 deg btd where it belongs. It swings a 20x10 at 8600 not to bad. It was in a crash. My other cap had a radio problem and It went in hard. It bent the crank so I needed parts. But all is well now.   I love mine..  

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Saintcreed,

Sounds like you're having fun. We have 3 40's running on various planes, all with the original ignitions for almost a year and we fly 1 or 2 of them at least once a week. Don't sweat the ignition, they don't fail in flight. You'll come in andland, 20 min. later you'll go to start it and it's dead. That's the typical way they fail, not while you're in a hover 3' off the runway. (knock on wood)

Put the tach away and go fly, if you are getting 6850 on the ground you are definitely hitting 7200 in the air. You would be surprised to see how much a prop can unload in the air.

karolh

How much does a gasser prop really unload in the air rpm wise.

Karol

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

It varies with different engine and prop combinations but 400 RPM is pretty conservative.I've seen almost 1000 RPM with one comboin level flight.

citabrickr

Ok, got my engine and assembled it with no real problems and am excited to run it.  This being my first gas I have a question about the throttle and return spring.  Do you remove the spring so that the servo isn't under load all the time?  Does anyone replace the actual throttle arm either because it doesn't seem too linkage-attachment-friendly? 

Second, during assembly the (terrible) instructions mention a split washer (lock washer I assume) in the assembly parts list for the aluminum prop shaft and threaded steel prop shaft...but the picture does not show it, was this a part that was deleted or is it supposed to go on the prop shaft extension as it threads to the crank holding the aluminum hub on?  It wasn't in my kit.

Last question is what is the actual prop nut thread size so I can get a spinner adapter, I believe it's M10 but not sure if the pitch is 1.0 or 1.5.  Thanks all!

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

Your answer for question # 1 is. You leave the spring on the carb you just unhook it so the servo will not allways be under a load. As for # 2 My 45 uses a flat and lock warsher.And as for # 3 I'm very sure yourlooking at 1.5mm on thepitch. Please send pics of your engine I w uldlike to see it...

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Warbird is correct on all accounts except #2, forget the lockwasher, they are not used on the 26cc and 40ccanymore. Clean the threads on the crankshaft, inside the propshaft and use some redLocktite.

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

Jody you are correct. It has been awhile since I have taken my prop drive off but I was lust going through my parts stash and found the flat warsher new in package. The lock was left off becauseIt was deleted. Thanks for thecorrection. Ernie. But Ihave a question for you why do they use the four bolts on the thor 45cc prop drive and not on the crrc pro's In other words my prop drive uses the centerbolt and four boltsto hold my prop on. Does this realy make a difference???

citabrickr

Well, ran the engine through about a quart of gas today. Started easy, took some carb adjustments but I expected that building it from a kit. Have one small oil leak where the sensor screw hole was drilled through the botom case half into the front seal area, saw that upon assembly and hoped it wouldn't be an issue but obviously it is. Hopefully that won't be a difficult warranty issue. Other than that all I can say is oh my GOD is this thing LOUD!!! Is the muffler output flange some standard size and does anyone know of a quieter muffler? I don't care about a power loss because I'm way overpowered in the first place but sure would like to cut the noise in half! Thanks!

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

how did that happen

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

did you put that seal in there. or did you mount the sensor in a different location

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

If you need a seal I have one here. it is a thor part. The part # is 287119. or thr45-0180..

citabrickr

? The two screwholes for the sensorare in the lower front case, the one to the far side near the engine mount lug was drilled through and ended up in the area where the front bearing seal lays, I put everything together and it all fit well, but I saw that hole protruding into the seal area and hoped it would not leak...it does. I used Loctite anerobic sealer and Permatex aviation gasket maker on the case halves instead of the RTV as that is how full sized aircraft engines are assembled and that's what I do as my job anyway so the "good stuff" was already in the shop. Only leak is at that screw hole.

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

I wonder if the timing is right. It should fire at about 28 to 30 deg btdc. If it isnt right you can make a ring like i did and move the sensor to the right location. If thats the case you can fill the holes with jb weld. If you give me your email I will show you a pic of what i did to mine. I think you will like it. I have no screws in mine.

citabrickr

I really have no idea what you're talking about....my timing is fine, runs great,engine assembled correctly, and two screws attach the sensor to the lower case.

warbird72

My Feedback: (79)

What im saying is that some of the engines came through with the timming set at about 22 deg btdc. That retareed the ignition. It made it easyer to start but the power was down a little. That is whyi went to c/h ignition. It was just a thought.I just was wondering if you had a problem with the timming you could have done this mod and gotten rid of the screws all to gether. and make a ring to mount your sensor to.

citabrickr

Well, that would still leave me with a hole that oil leaks from...a bigger hole at that. I have no idea where my timing is set, but it runs great. I'm totally new to this gas engine stuff having flown glow for about 20 years. I think a new lower case half that doesn't have the hole drilled all the way through, or even some JB weld in the hole after it's all cleaned out with lacquer thinner would prob do me fine, but I'd rather get a new case half before doing a boogered up repair.