CRRC 40cc kit
#401
RE: CRRC 40cc kit
ORIGINAL: Gravitybites
Hello Drola. I read in your previous post that you were mixing 2.6 oz of amsoil saber pro to a gallon of gas. Amsoil Saber pro is made to run at 100:1 That would cause the problem. Really you were fouling out plugs. I run the saber Pro in my CRRC engines and have never had a problem but i use it at 100:1 Several people that i know also use the same oil at 100:1 and they have no problem with it either.
Hello Drola. I read in your previous post that you were mixing 2.6 oz of amsoil saber pro to a gallon of gas. Amsoil Saber pro is made to run at 100:1 That would cause the problem. Really you were fouling out plugs. I run the saber Pro in my CRRC engines and have never had a problem but i use it at 100:1 Several people that i know also use the same oil at 100:1 and they have no problem with it either.
#402
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
ORIGINAL: Edwin
What is normal 2-stroke oil. I was planning on using some saber amsoil just to try it. I'm currently using Penzoil.
Edwin
What is normal 2-stroke oil. I was planning on using some saber amsoil just to try it. I'm currently using Penzoil.
Edwin
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
Ok, Jody: I'm not asking us to open a big can of worms here but I am interested in knowing what brand of oil you "LIKE" to use in your own personal engines and why. Expiring minds WANT to know. Hello and best wishes!!!
Rocky1405 [8D]
Rocky1405 [8D]
#405
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
ORIGINAL: ROCKY1405
Ok, Jody: I'm not asking us to open a big can of worms here but I am interested in knowing what brand of oil you ''LIKE'' to use in your own personal engines and why. Expiring minds WANT to know. Hello and best wishes!!!
Rocky1405 [8D]
Ok, Jody: I'm not asking us to open a big can of worms here but I am interested in knowing what brand of oil you ''LIKE'' to use in your own personal engines and why. Expiring minds WANT to know. Hello and best wishes!!!
Rocky1405 [8D]
Though this oil is one of them, very few people will ever need the worlds best oil. Pick one that is easy to get, meets at least the API TC cert. and just use enough of it. People are wasting far to much time and energy bantering over oil, GO FLY!
#406
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
Hey guys, I called Jody and ordered a CRRC 40 with a rc excel ignition. Jody im ready for it, if I had enough extra cash I would have paid extra for overnight shipping, lol. Should be a good set up on the Extra 300s.
#407
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
I agree with Jody! Pic a good oil that you can find in your home town and enjoy the sport. I only made the comment because I wanted him to know why he was fouling his plugs. Thanks
#408
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
Hey guys .... anyone found a pitts style muffler for the 40cc yet that isnt way over priced? Or maybe a used one laying around that you wouldnt mind selling?
Just curious.
Just curious.
#409
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
just an update. i flew the t-craft with the gf40i and it did great. i was expecting more power but it's still breaking in and i know it will loosen up the more i fly it. no more fouled plugs after switching over to penzoil 2 stroke. no dead sticks either. i was quite pleased.
i am in the process of breaking in my buddies gf40i which will go into a hangar 9 cap 232 1.20. should be a great combination. this one is running great. starts right up and i leave it running for 30-40 minutes at a time, let it cool, and then it starts right back up.
one thing i noticed on both of these motors is that on cold start and after it spits with the choke on, i undo the choke. i then have to cover the carb intake with my finger about 1/2 way, flip the prop, and it starts. but in order for it not to stall i have to keep my finger over the carb hole for about 5 seconds or so semi-choking it and then i can take my finger out and it will stay running from then on.
am i the only one experiencing this? i'm not all that concerned about it but just wondered if this is normal.
i am in the process of breaking in my buddies gf40i which will go into a hangar 9 cap 232 1.20. should be a great combination. this one is running great. starts right up and i leave it running for 30-40 minutes at a time, let it cool, and then it starts right back up.
one thing i noticed on both of these motors is that on cold start and after it spits with the choke on, i undo the choke. i then have to cover the carb intake with my finger about 1/2 way, flip the prop, and it starts. but in order for it not to stall i have to keep my finger over the carb hole for about 5 seconds or so semi-choking it and then i can take my finger out and it will stay running from then on.
am i the only one experiencing this? i'm not all that concerned about it but just wondered if this is normal.
#410
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
Bisson made me a beautiful, quiet Pitts muffler for mine after Jtec gave me a runaround and dropped the ball twice. I highly recommend Bisson.
#411
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
If you have to leave the choke on at all your idle mix needle is too lean. I flip mine two or three times covering the air horn then maybe 5 or 6 times after that I'm off and running without choke.
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
Just bought Great Planes Giant Big Stick. Was going to use my DL50(too much but if you have to error) on it but I see the mounting on this engine and the Rcxell ign now.Does anyone know if the engine mounts are predrilled and if they fit the GPlanes pattern as they are. THANKS,RACJ
#418
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
Well guys, I finally got mine running today. Bought it several months from VVRC.
STIHL HP Super 2-Cycle Engine Oil mixed 32-1. Plan on going to STIHL HP Ultra 2-Cycle fully synthetic Engine Oil mixed 50-1 after a couple gallons of run time.
Mejzlik 20x8
NGK BPMR6F plug, with stock ignition
After getting it started motor ran real well. Idle down to 1700-1800 and top was 6750. Didnt touch the needles since Jody tweeked them at VVRC before shipping it out.
My only problem is starting. First start of the day, throttle full open, choke on, flip 5-6 times. Throttle idle, choke on, ignition on, flip til pops (8-12 times). Throttle idle, choke off, ignition on, flip till it starts (8-12 times). It will start and only run for about 5 seconds before quiting. Repeat before mentioned process one or two times before it will run. I have also varied the throttle position during the start with the same results. Even on a warm motor the same technique has to be used. Any thoughts on what Im doing wrong? Could the low needle be a tad bit lean?
Thanks
STIHL HP Super 2-Cycle Engine Oil mixed 32-1. Plan on going to STIHL HP Ultra 2-Cycle fully synthetic Engine Oil mixed 50-1 after a couple gallons of run time.
Mejzlik 20x8
NGK BPMR6F plug, with stock ignition
After getting it started motor ran real well. Idle down to 1700-1800 and top was 6750. Didnt touch the needles since Jody tweeked them at VVRC before shipping it out.
My only problem is starting. First start of the day, throttle full open, choke on, flip 5-6 times. Throttle idle, choke on, ignition on, flip til pops (8-12 times). Throttle idle, choke off, ignition on, flip till it starts (8-12 times). It will start and only run for about 5 seconds before quiting. Repeat before mentioned process one or two times before it will run. I have also varied the throttle position during the start with the same results. Even on a warm motor the same technique has to be used. Any thoughts on what Im doing wrong? Could the low needle be a tad bit lean?
Thanks
#420
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
Thanks Jody, I will work on that low speed needle. I just hate to touch them, after it is started it runs so well. Good idle, great transition and the top is at 6850 now with the Mejzlik 20x8.
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
Got about 3 hours on the motor now. Messed with the low needle, but ended up back where Jody had it. Still havent fiqured out a good solid start technique, but im working on it.
Getting 6900-6950 on the Mejzlik 20x8
Getting 6900-6950 on the Mejzlik 20x8
#425
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RE: CRRC 40cc kit
I cover the air horn with my thumb for two flips with the throttle open, then turn the ignition on and open the throttle just a crack, it will kick a couple times or run backwards for a second but is then running forward in a half dozen flips. Warm needs nothing, just cracked and flip it. Over chocking or priming will have you doing a lot of flipping to clear it.