SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
#3776
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
A Stick that big would be awsome. You'll need a hangar for it.
The only engine I know of that SAP should be close to fielding is the 60cc twin. Two of those would be cool on the Stick.
The only engine I know of that SAP should be close to fielding is the 60cc twin. Two of those would be cool on the Stick.
#3777
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Joystick TX
A Stick that big would be awsome. You'll need a hangar for it.
The only engine I know of that SAP should be close to fielding is the 60cc twin. Two of those would be cool on the Stick.
A Stick that big would be awsome. You'll need a hangar for it.
The only engine I know of that SAP should be close to fielding is the 60cc twin. Two of those would be cool on the Stick.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: 50%plane
Slick, not Stick... here's a pic of the ARF:
ORIGINAL: Joystick TX
A Stick that big would be awsome. You'll need a hangar for it.
The only engine I know of that SAP should be close to fielding is the 60cc twin. Two of those would be cool on the Stick.
A Stick that big would be awsome. You'll need a hangar for it.
The only engine I know of that SAP should be close to fielding is the 60cc twin. Two of those would be cool on the Stick.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
Way cool, but how's about Ben and Jesky coming out with a 2-meter Osiris for the 30cc Syssa?
ORIGINAL: 50%plane
Slick, not Stick... here's a pic of the ARF:
ORIGINAL: Joystick TX
A Stick that big would be awsome. You'll need a hangar for it.
The only engine I know of that SAP should be close to fielding is the 60cc twin. Two of those would be cool on the Stick.
A Stick that big would be awsome. You'll need a hangar for it.
The only engine I know of that SAP should be close to fielding is the 60cc twin. Two of those would be cool on the Stick.
#3781
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: Joystick TX
Holy cow, that is one big model! Way better looking than a Stick.
You could almost give rides in that one.
Holy cow, that is one big model! Way better looking than a Stick.
You could almost give rides in that one.
A nice Syssa 190 would be the bees knees near the end of 2011!
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: ghoffman
I am in for one and a big AJSlick! Todd's engines are in the DA class, and there are no better planes than 3DHS.
I am in for one and a big AJSlick! Todd's engines are in the DA class, and there are no better planes than 3DHS.
Todd, please come out with a nice 170-220cc engine soon!
#3784
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Honestly, so far, my Syssa runs better than my DA-60, but that is not fair since it has been Winter around here since I got the -60. I don't even mind being a Beta site, Todd is close by and a good guy. Now, give me the new Walbro electronic fuel injection, and you have access to my checkbook!
#3785
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: 50%plane
Does anyone know what sizes the large twins are that Todd is bringing out? I know he mentioned a large single to me at the Nall... I am looking for a 170-220cc twin for my 126'' Slick....
Does anyone know what sizes the large twins are that Todd is bringing out? I know he mentioned a large single to me at the Nall... I am looking for a 170-220cc twin for my 126'' Slick....
~ Jim ~
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Thinking of picking one of these up.. What kind of lead time are you looking at, are you backed up, or have them ready to ship?
I was thinking of putting one in a ESM P-51, looks like it would fit right in there with the rear mounted carb and exhaust. has anyone tried this combo yet, did a search and came up empty...
I was thinking of putting one in a ESM P-51, looks like it would fit right in there with the rear mounted carb and exhaust. has anyone tried this combo yet, did a search and came up empty...
#3787
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Hi everyone..EH!
I just picked up one of these engines from a friend of mine who could do nothing but rave about it. He buys two of everything and I convionced him to sell me his spare to get away from buying a DLE.
The engine has only been factory run. I don't want to sift through 147 pages of threads so can someone recomend a breakin prop and the oil mixture as the motor did not come with a manual.
Thanx in advance.
This little puppy is destined to be in a 75" Extra MSX-R from Peak Models.
Regards,
I just picked up one of these engines from a friend of mine who could do nothing but rave about it. He buys two of everything and I convionced him to sell me his spare to get away from buying a DLE.
The engine has only been factory run. I don't want to sift through 147 pages of threads so can someone recomend a breakin prop and the oil mixture as the motor did not come with a manual.
Thanx in advance.
This little puppy is destined to be in a 75" Extra MSX-R from Peak Models.
Regards,
#3788
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Get the Vess 18 x 6 or Vess 18.5 x 5.5. I get mine from Todd at SASSA Aircraft Performance. Send email to [email protected].
I am using the 18.5 x 5.5 and love it. Mine is installed in the Funtana 125.
I am using the 18.5 x 5.5 and love it. Mine is installed in the Funtana 125.
#3789
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Jim,
If you go to the Syssa website you can download the manual:
http://www.syssaaircraft.net/sap.html
I just got in some last minute flying today before the winter storm hits tomorrow. No more flying for a few days. I hate this bitter cold winter, come on spring.
If you go to the Syssa website you can download the manual:
http://www.syssaaircraft.net/sap.html
I just got in some last minute flying today before the winter storm hits tomorrow. No more flying for a few days. I hate this bitter cold winter, come on spring.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Totally confused!! I just got one of these bad boys with the IBE. I don't understand how this setup looks in terms of wiring.
Does the battery connect to the IBE, then the IBE to the Electronic ignition, then the electronic ignition to the receiver?
If this is the case, I should be using the same amount of receiver channels I had with my Nitro setup?
I have a 7Channel Futaba system with all channels spoken for: 1:ELEVATOR(1), 2:Aileron(1), 3:Throttle, 4:Rudder, 5:ELEVATOR(2), 6:Aileron(2), 7: Power.
Will I be able to program an ignition cutoff through this configuration in Channel 7?
Thanks in advance!
#3791
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: montagma
Totally confused!! I just got one of these bad boys with the IBE. I don't understand how this setup looks in terms of wiring.
Totally confused!! I just got one of these bad boys with the IBE. I don't understand how this setup looks in terms of wiring.
Does the battery connect to the IBE, then the IBE to the Electronic ignition, then the electronic ignition to the receiver?
If this is the case, I should be using the same amount of receiver channels I had with my Nitro setup?
I have a 7Channel Futaba system with all channels spoken for: 1:ELEVATOR(1), 2:Aileron(1), 3:Throttle, 4:Rudder, 5:ELEVATOR(2), 6:Aileron(2), 7: Power.
Will I be able to program an ignition cutoff through this configuration in Channel 7?
Thanks in advance!
Then....Plug the IBEC lead (marked RX) into a spare channel in the RX, like Retracts. The IBEC is basically a remote switch to your CDI, that you conveniently and safely switch on-off by the TX Retract channel.
Then....Plug the IBEC lead (marked ignition or CDI) to the CDI plug (marked battery)
Then....Plug the CDI lead (marked engine) to the engine lead
When you activate Retracts, it powers up the IBEC and the LED light comes on; the IBEC then powers the CDI. That's it. Make sure you have enough airborne battery capacity. I use a 1780 mah battery and get about 70 minutes total running time on 7 digital servos plus ignition
Make sure you wrap the spark wire with the larger spiral cut tube (anti-chafing) and the wire lead with the smaller. I secure the ends of the spiral cut tube with rubber electrical tape, the type you stretch and wrap over itself to seal
Good luck.
#3792
RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I only have a6 Channel Futaba TX and RX.Where your RXhas Ch 7: power, I have"B" forpower.
Iuse a "Y" connector for the Right and Left Elevator servos. The IBE plugs into the Ch 5 slot on theRX and I use the Ch 5 switch on the TX to turn the ignition on and off.The Ignition module plugs into the IBE. I love the LED to let me know the ignition is "HOT." Also,I get flaperonswith Ch's 1 and 6.
Iuse a "Y" connector for the Right and Left Elevator servos. The IBE plugs into the Ch 5 slot on theRX and I use the Ch 5 switch on the TX to turn the ignition on and off.The Ignition module plugs into the IBE. I love the LED to let me know the ignition is "HOT." Also,I get flaperonswith Ch's 1 and 6.
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: montagma
Thanks MTK. Totally makes sense now! Could I still have a switch between my battery and the IBE so I can turn the system on/off?
Thanks MTK. Totally makes sense now! Could I still have a switch between my battery and the IBE so I can turn the system on/off?
As Matt indicated, your RX battery powers everything. For a pattern plane, I decided to use 1 Rx battery (2600mAh Li-ion) and a failsafe switch (fail ON), and this model now has more than 300 flights on it with no issues and flawless performance from the IBEC (Tech-Aero IBEC).
However, with this kind of set-up all your eggs are in one basket so you have to keep a close eye on the basket. Be very cognizant of your battery's draw (about 150-200mAh per flight for both servos and ignition, YMMV) and use a load-testing volt meter (like the one from NoBS Batteries) that will give you plenty of warning of a battery that is failing and dropping voltage under load. And use the battery checker often. It has saved a couple of models for me.
If you are flying a larger model and want some redundancy, that's when you want an extra RX battery and switch for the receiver. The extra battery and switch should plug into a separate channel on the receiver and be totally independent from the first battery and switch. If you're short on slots on your receiver, you can use a Y harness to plug the extra Rx battery and IBEC into one slot.
#3795
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
ORIGINAL: montagma
Thanks MTK. Totally makes sense now! Could I still have a switch between my battery and the IBE so I can turn the system on/off?
Thanks MTK. Totally makes sense now! Could I still have a switch between my battery and the IBE so I can turn the system on/off?
Think of the IBEC as an extra servo that you command the same as any other servo. Except this particular "servo" powers the CDI unit and allows the engine to run.
As Bob mentioned, the IBEC is optically isolated from the RX which gives a good measure of radio safety. It is also highly filtered device to kill any spurious radio frequency interference from getting back into the RX from the CDI spark generated noise.
Nevertheless, it's a good idea to keep wiring from the RX to the IBEC and from the IBEC to the CDI as straight as practical within your airframe, and keep the CDI unit away from your RX as is practical. These are musts when operating high voltage CDI systems
Before you commit to the first flight, I strongly recommend that you have a buddy hold the plane with the engine running and do a thorough range check with antenna collapsed (on 72 MHz) or with the range button pushed in (2.4 gig systems). Range should exceed 100 steps
Let me add a little to what Bob mentioned on airborne batteries. The IBEC is factory set (regulated) to send 5.5 volts to the CDI. If you are using a 4 cell NiMH battery (4.8 volts nominal and about 5.6 volts when fully charged), the systems will work okay for a little while but the margin is much lower.
As the voltage drops to 5 volts and below, less voltage will be delivered to the CDI. CDI's operate well at voltage as low as 4 volts so you're okay for a little while, but lower than that you will get erratic running and your servos will jump all over the place. Don't ask how I know
For this reason we use 5 cell NiMH minimum (6 V nominal and 6.6 V fully charged) or Li-ion /LiPO regulated to around 6-6.2 volts. We check the airborne battery voltage every other flight to make sure we operate safely. This is a great practice to get into to eliminate hassles
Note that the 6.2 volt potential of the airborne system is regulated down by the IBEC to 5.5 volts, which is what the CDI sees. The CDI is happy happy at that voltage
Hopefully this all makes sense. If something doesn't, ask questions here-in. Collectively we have several 100 hours of operation on these IBEC set-ups and we can help
#3798
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
Sand. Very, very cold sand. You're looking at some diehard flyers here, folks. I still remember doing this, and the aching in my fingers returns just from thinking about it.
~ Jim ~
~ Jim ~
#3799
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RE: SYSSA 30CC GAS MADE IN USA
I was told that around here you had better learn to fly in wind and in cold, otherwise you won't get much stick time. The point is, the Syssa IBEC is unaffected by sub freezing weather.