DLE30!
08-21-2011, 12:28 PM
#4801
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Hamilton, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
I hand start mine , It takes a few flicks , about 10 more or less . It does not seem to worry it if I flood the motor , it soon clears then starts to pop after half a dozen flicks .
Motor is upside down by the way . It would benifit by having a better carb I feel but goes Ok .
DA50 starts easier by comparison
In my hanger 9 150 stang it is a great combination , I had to fit an air tube behind the carb to allow the motor to breath in that model
Graeme
Motor is upside down by the way . It would benifit by having a better carb I feel but goes Ok .
DA50 starts easier by comparison
In my hanger 9 150 stang it is a great combination , I had to fit an air tube behind the carb to allow the motor to breath in that model
Graeme
08-21-2011, 12:44 PM
#4802
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Winnipeg,
MB, CANADA
Posts: 587
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
If you guys are running the fuel out after flying don't. I don't prime my 30 or 55. Both burb with choke on, low idle within 4 tries, choke off another 3 swipes and they are running, every time.
08-21-2011, 01:01 PM
#4803
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Hamilton, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
I wish , but I am thinking thatI will block the hole in the butterfy to help the choke work better .
Mate did that and he is not have quite so much trouble .
I never run the fuel out , but your comment is relevent as the choke does not help the fuel draw through the line very well.
Graeme
Mate did that and he is not have quite so much trouble .
I never run the fuel out , but your comment is relevent as the choke does not help the fuel draw through the line very well.
Graeme
08-21-2011, 01:07 PM
#4804
My Feedback: (47)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Whitestone,
NY
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
GSK - I just picked up a used Hangar 9 P51 150 with an Evolution GT35 engine. A beautiful plane! Needs a little work, though. Right now the landing gear are not working. Are they run off of a simple y-splitter to one channel in the receiver? Evidently I need a servo-reverser for the flaps. I'm thinking of starting a thread on it, cause I have some questions.
08-21-2011, 01:21 PM
#4805
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Hamilton, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
GSK - I just picked up a used Hangar 9 P51 150 with an Evolution GT35 engine.
Yes a great model . throw away the retracts and get some Robarts , they make a set to fit that model , fit 4in wheels and you willl never look back.
By the way ignore the C/G in the instructions , set it back 1 in from the leading edge of the wing tips and your model wil survive a long time with no vices.
There is a long thread on this model atsubscriptions@rcuniverse.
Some of the guys on this thread are subscribers to that thread they may be able to give you a link.
Graeme
Yes a great model . throw away the retracts and get some Robarts , they make a set to fit that model , fit 4in wheels and you willl never look back.
By the way ignore the C/G in the instructions , set it back 1 in from the leading edge of the wing tips and your model wil survive a long time with no vices.
There is a long thread on this model atsubscriptions@rcuniverse.
Some of the guys on this thread are subscribers to that thread they may be able to give you a link.
Graeme
08-21-2011, 01:34 PM
#4806
My Feedback: (47)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Whitestone,
NY
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
GSK - pneumatic or mechanical retracts? Is one better than the other? (I'm a nube to retracts). I did find one OLD thread here on RCU about this issue - they all said to ditch the stock retracts. I'll call Robart tomorrow for their advice. Thanks.
08-21-2011, 01:41 PM
#4807
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Hamilton, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: microdon2
GSK - pneumatic or mechanical retracts? Is one better than the other? (I'm a nube to retracts). I did find one OLD thread here on RCU about this issue - they all said to ditch the stock retracts. I'll call Robart tomorrow for their advice. Thanks.
GSK - pneumatic or mechanical retracts? Is one better than the other? (I'm a nube to retracts). I did find one OLD thread here on RCU about this issue - they all said to ditch the stock retracts. I'll call Robart tomorrow for their advice. Thanks.
The old thread has all the info you will need deep within it's bowels.
I use the model for a beat em up and have fun aircraft , it is great for that .
Graeme
08-21-2011, 04:10 PM
#4810
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Hamilton, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
Thnks , but yes have doneand still do that ,
Seems that it is just the design of the carb, works great once you pour some petrol into the air intake .
reckon a walbro would be a better carb, I have to use quite a curve on the throttle program also
Graeme
Seems that it is just the design of the carb, works great once you pour some petrol into the air intake .
reckon a walbro would be a better carb, I have to use quite a curve on the throttle program also
Graeme
08-21-2011, 04:49 PM
#4812
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Hamilton, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: Mikecam
Any chance your using a servo for the choke?
Any chance your using a servo for the choke?
perhaps i coukd make the fuel line shorter ,but then i would have trouble pulling the tank out for whaever reason
Graeme
08-21-2011, 07:01 PM
#4813
Senior Member
My Feedback: (14)
RE: NEW DLE30!
for the first few tanks mine was a bear to start, it was so bad i broke out the dynatron. once it started seating in proper it became easier to start. After the fifth tank it was 3-5 flips for a pop cold , 2 or 3 off choke and it is running. now that it is fully broke its 2-3 flips for a pop and 1 or 2 and its purring away, after the first start of the day i am surprised if it takes a second flip to start.
08-21-2011, 07:30 PM
#4814
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Hamilton, NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 293
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
So what you are saying it is a great motor ,and it gets better as you go
Now I am running an 18 * 12 APC prop , gives the model plenty of get up and go . For an IMAC type model a finer pitch seems the thing to do
Now I am running an 18 * 12 APC prop , gives the model plenty of get up and go . For an IMAC type model a finer pitch seems the thing to do
08-22-2011, 08:43 AM
#4815
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: winston,
MO
Posts: 1,378
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
Guy's I was flying my MX yesterday and after 6 flights it started cutting out real bad. Come to find out my ign batt wire where it comes out of the battery had rubbed against the fire wall.
Sounds like I need to fire the mechanic
Sounds like I need to fire the mechanic
08-22-2011, 09:10 PM
#4816
Senior Member
My Feedback: (111)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Romeo, MI
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
Something else to consider, for those of you having trouble starting your DLE-30 engines, is the size fuel tubing you are using. When I first setup my QQ Yak I used 1/8" ID Tygon fuel line throughout (as allot of people new to gas engines will do), and had great difficulty starting mine. Jody, at Valley View R/C, told me that there is no need to use anything larger than 3/32" ID fuel line (the same size fuel tubing most of us use in all of our glow engines), and even told me that the larger diameter fuel tubing could be the source of my problem. After swapping out all my fuel lines with 3/32" Tygon, my DLE-30 now starts very easily. Usually 2-3 flips with the choke closed to get a pop, and then 1 more flip to get it running with the choke open. The most I've ever had to flip mine to get it started was 6 flips, and that was with the carb set too lean. A little adjustment, and it was starting up in 1-2 flips again.
Also, make sure to zip-tie all your fuel lines if using Tygon fuel line. Heat and exposure to fuel causes Tygon to soften and expand, which can cause air leaks in the system. This can drastically weaken your fuel draw, and effect the overall performance of your engine. This is another area where the smaller 3/32" ID fuel tubing works better than the larger 1/8" ID fuel tubing, as it fits the fuel fittings much better. The larger 1/8" Fuel tubing can actually kink when tightening the zip-tie around it. Because most standard zip-ties (the type most people use) have a little area near the head that doesn't contact the fuel tubing when tightened, and this can cause the tubing to kink in this area when tightened. Which could cause an air leak in the fuel line.
Jody also told me not to put fuel directly into the carburetor. If the fuel's not getting there you most likely have other problems.
Just a few things to think about when setting up your gas engines...
Mark
Also, make sure to zip-tie all your fuel lines if using Tygon fuel line. Heat and exposure to fuel causes Tygon to soften and expand, which can cause air leaks in the system. This can drastically weaken your fuel draw, and effect the overall performance of your engine. This is another area where the smaller 3/32" ID fuel tubing works better than the larger 1/8" ID fuel tubing, as it fits the fuel fittings much better. The larger 1/8" Fuel tubing can actually kink when tightening the zip-tie around it. Because most standard zip-ties (the type most people use) have a little area near the head that doesn't contact the fuel tubing when tightened, and this can cause the tubing to kink in this area when tightened. Which could cause an air leak in the fuel line.
Jody also told me not to put fuel directly into the carburetor. If the fuel's not getting there you most likely have other problems.
Just a few things to think about when setting up your gas engines...
Mark
08-22-2011, 09:56 PM
#4817
My Feedback: (47)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Whitestone,
NY
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
3D - thanks for the tips from yourself and Jody. Have you blocked the hole in the choke plate to increase draw? I'm thinking I have either a draw-pressure problem or my low end is too lean. Or my choke plate isn't sealing just right. Another new issue - after I started my DLE 30 on Sunday I taxied out to the flight line and found that the throttle was not advancing. (this engine ran perfectly on Saturday). Brought the plane back - saw that the throttle servo was working, all the way to moving the throttle plate-axle. Am thinking the throttle plate must be loose. Will take it apart to find out.
08-23-2011, 08:32 AM
#4818
Senior Member
My Feedback: (111)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Romeo, MI
Posts: 638
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
microdon2,
I haven't had to block the hole in my choke plate on any gas engine that I've ever owned. I'm not saying that it might not be benificial on an engine with a poor fitting choke plate. I'm just saying that I've never ran into an engine that needed the hole blocked before.
I hope your engine didn't swallow your throttle plate screw...that wouldn't be good for it.
Mark
I haven't had to block the hole in my choke plate on any gas engine that I've ever owned. I'm not saying that it might not be benificial on an engine with a poor fitting choke plate. I'm just saying that I've never ran into an engine that needed the hole blocked before.
I hope your engine didn't swallow your throttle plate screw...that wouldn't be good for it.
Mark
08-24-2011, 09:44 AM
#4819
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: St. Catharines,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
I have had a DLE-30 converted to V2 and a DLE-55 for a couple of years now and have found them to run absolutely superbly. I had a little trouble with the original DLE-30 and did the conversion only to discover the real trouble was that my FG cowl had cut the Spark lead and although I thought I had repaired it properly it continued to give me trouble until I ordered a new IGN module. From then on everything was terrific.
Recently I ordered two RCexl kill switches. I put the first one on the 1/4 Super Cub DLE-30 which uses 1 A123 battery for both IGN and RCVR. I flew it for a few months without trouble. I then installed the second one on the Skybolt and DLE-55 which was similarly wired but with two A123 batteries. Suddenly I found that both aircraft started to glitch very badly. The Cub throttle servo (mounted on the firewall) was jumping all over the place and other surfaces were as well. On the Skybolt (throttle servo inside the fuse with ELEV and RUDD) every surface was glitching. On the SKybolt I had flown it a couple of times that day when I noticed it did a little jig in the air. I immediately landed and on checking found the ailerons glitching slightly but as I checked it got worse and then all surfaces went wild.
We checked everything carefully, with experienced pilots, and found that the servos moved a little just as I was turning over the engine. The assumption then was that the IGN module was gone. I removed the Kill switches but still had the extreme glitching. I bought a new IGN module for the DLE-55 and it now runs perfectly. I installed a Smart Fly kill switch in it and it also works properly.
I have a JR9303 on 2.4G and have tested all with the 7CH. JR RCVR. I have also tested with the FrSKY 8CH - both types - which have been in use for some time as well, but get the same results. So it's not the RCVRs.
I would like to return the two IGN modules and the Kill switches to someone to check them out for me. This stuff is supposed to have a worldwide two year warrantee (I think) but no one will look at them untless they sold them. Can anyone advise? Should I just chuck them out and get new ones? I hope this type of breakdown is not to be expected with RCexl.
Recently I ordered two RCexl kill switches. I put the first one on the 1/4 Super Cub DLE-30 which uses 1 A123 battery for both IGN and RCVR. I flew it for a few months without trouble. I then installed the second one on the Skybolt and DLE-55 which was similarly wired but with two A123 batteries. Suddenly I found that both aircraft started to glitch very badly. The Cub throttle servo (mounted on the firewall) was jumping all over the place and other surfaces were as well. On the Skybolt (throttle servo inside the fuse with ELEV and RUDD) every surface was glitching. On the SKybolt I had flown it a couple of times that day when I noticed it did a little jig in the air. I immediately landed and on checking found the ailerons glitching slightly but as I checked it got worse and then all surfaces went wild.
We checked everything carefully, with experienced pilots, and found that the servos moved a little just as I was turning over the engine. The assumption then was that the IGN module was gone. I removed the Kill switches but still had the extreme glitching. I bought a new IGN module for the DLE-55 and it now runs perfectly. I installed a Smart Fly kill switch in it and it also works properly.
I have a JR9303 on 2.4G and have tested all with the 7CH. JR RCVR. I have also tested with the FrSKY 8CH - both types - which have been in use for some time as well, but get the same results. So it's not the RCVRs.
I would like to return the two IGN modules and the Kill switches to someone to check them out for me. This stuff is supposed to have a worldwide two year warrantee (I think) but no one will look at them untless they sold them. Can anyone advise? Should I just chuck them out and get new ones? I hope this type of breakdown is not to be expected with RCexl.
08-24-2011, 11:35 AM
#4820
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Munster,
IN
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: SuperCub Man
I have had a DLE-30 converted to V2 and a DLE-55 for a couple of years now and have found them to run absolutely superbly. I had a little trouble with the original DLE-30 and did the conversion only to discover the real trouble was that my FG cowl had cut the Spark lead and although I thought I had repaired it properly it continued to give me trouble until I ordered a new IGN module. From then on everything was terrific.
Recently I ordered two RCexl kill switches. I put the first one on the 1/4 Super Cub DLE-30 which uses 1 A123 battery for both IGN and RCVR. I flew it for a few months without trouble. I then installed the second one on the Skybolt and DLE-55 which was similarly wired but with two A123 batteries. Suddenly I found that both aircraft started to glitch very badly. The Cub throttle servo (mounted on the firewall) was jumping all over the place and other surfaces were as well. On the Skybolt (throttle servo inside the fuse with ELEV and RUDD) every surface was glitching. On the SKybolt I had flown it a couple of times that day when I noticed it did a little jig in the air. I immediately landed and on checking found the ailerons glitching slightly but as I checked it got worse and then all surfaces went wild.
We checked everything carefully, with experienced pilots, and found that the servos moved a little just as I was turning over the engine. The assumption then was that the IGN module was gone. I removed the Kill switches but still had the extreme glitching. I bought a new IGN module for the DLE-55 and it now runs perfectly. I installed a Smart Fly kill switch in it and it also works properly.
I have a JR9303 on 2.4G and have tested all with the 7CH. JR RCVR. I have also tested with the FrSKY 8CH - both types - which have been in use for some time as well, but get the same results. So it's not the RCVRs.
I would like to return the two IGN modules and the Kill switches to someone to check them out for me. This stuff is supposed to have a worldwide two year warrantee (I think) but no one will look at them untless they sold them. Can anyone advise? Should I just chuck them out and get new ones? I hope this type of breakdown is not to be expected with RCexl.
I have had a DLE-30 converted to V2 and a DLE-55 for a couple of years now and have found them to run absolutely superbly. I had a little trouble with the original DLE-30 and did the conversion only to discover the real trouble was that my FG cowl had cut the Spark lead and although I thought I had repaired it properly it continued to give me trouble until I ordered a new IGN module. From then on everything was terrific.
Recently I ordered two RCexl kill switches. I put the first one on the 1/4 Super Cub DLE-30 which uses 1 A123 battery for both IGN and RCVR. I flew it for a few months without trouble. I then installed the second one on the Skybolt and DLE-55 which was similarly wired but with two A123 batteries. Suddenly I found that both aircraft started to glitch very badly. The Cub throttle servo (mounted on the firewall) was jumping all over the place and other surfaces were as well. On the Skybolt (throttle servo inside the fuse with ELEV and RUDD) every surface was glitching. On the SKybolt I had flown it a couple of times that day when I noticed it did a little jig in the air. I immediately landed and on checking found the ailerons glitching slightly but as I checked it got worse and then all surfaces went wild.
We checked everything carefully, with experienced pilots, and found that the servos moved a little just as I was turning over the engine. The assumption then was that the IGN module was gone. I removed the Kill switches but still had the extreme glitching. I bought a new IGN module for the DLE-55 and it now runs perfectly. I installed a Smart Fly kill switch in it and it also works properly.
I have a JR9303 on 2.4G and have tested all with the 7CH. JR RCVR. I have also tested with the FrSKY 8CH - both types - which have been in use for some time as well, but get the same results. So it's not the RCVRs.
I would like to return the two IGN modules and the Kill switches to someone to check them out for me. This stuff is supposed to have a worldwide two year warrantee (I think) but no one will look at them untless they sold them. Can anyone advise? Should I just chuck them out and get new ones? I hope this type of breakdown is not to be expected with RCexl.
I have a Rxcel opti kill and have no issues....
08-24-2011, 12:10 PM
#4821
My Feedback: (47)
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Whitestone,
NY
Posts: 1,895
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
My new DLE 30 was running fine on Saturday, once I got it started, which took a bit, but would not run on Sunday. Would not fire. Checked the plug and saw no spark at all. Then noticed two wear spots in the plug-cap cable, worn down to the copper (it appears). I wrapped the first 6" with electical tape, but still no spark. Would these open wear spots cause electrical interference and prevent a spark? Is that why this cable is wrapped in a metal material? (I thought it was to prevent wear). Also, anyone have suggestions on how to prevent cowl-wear in these cables? I already had it wrapped in that split-platic wrap provided. Should I pre-wrap it in electrical or duct tape, too? Thanks.
08-24-2011, 03:01 PM
#4822
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Haltom City,
TX
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
ORIGINAL: SuperCub Man
This stuff is supposed to have a worldwide two year warrantee (I think) but no one will look at them untless they sold them.
This stuff is supposed to have a worldwide two year warrantee (I think) but no one will look at them untless they sold them.
Nope, they were originally sold to a US distributor, then sold to any discounter for a quick sale, then the discounters were removed ( since they could not/ would not honor warranty ). The original distributors were flushed by the discounters. DL became DLE and axed the discounters and supposedly only sells to distributors that will offer warranty.
That is why you need to get help from the selling dealer. Any dealer will assist with the repair at normal rates. Todays distributors margin goes south fast if they give away time and parts to their non customers who bought the ( say ) 55 for $269.00 US. Bottom line.... if ya can't fix it yorself, you need help if you want to return it to good performance.
Sorry this doesn't meet your needs. The original marketing was a bit "loose" and did not account for those needing help. Now, all is well.
08-24-2011, 03:08 PM
#4823
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: San Tan Valley,
AZ
Posts: 5,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
The purpose of the metal covering on the spark plug lead is to shield the cable to prevent it from radiating RF. In some systems it also provides ground to the engine for the ignition system. Wear spots will not prevent the spark or let RF escape as long as the braid is not completely disconnected.
08-24-2011, 03:51 PM
#4824
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: St. Catharines,
ON, CANADA
Posts: 617
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: NEW DLE30!
Having run the engines for a couple of years, I am well aware of the difficulty of pushing on the spark plug cap and I do so very vigorously!
So having bought the modules from China negates any warrantee. I guess that's why they sell them for $80 in Canada and $40. in China where they are made. I bought the DLE-55 from an authorized Canadian supplier and the DLE 30 from Jodi! Only the replacement modules and kill switches from China. Oh well - Caveat Emptor!
microdon2 - I have had the same problem and eventually had to replace the IGN module after trying to fix it. I now split neoprene tubing and glue it to the cowl wherever the plug wire exits or touches. I usually grind a little divot for the cable to sit in and line it with the neoprene. No troubles since. You can paint the neoprene to match the cowl if it shows too much.
So having bought the modules from China negates any warrantee. I guess that's why they sell them for $80 in Canada and $40. in China where they are made. I bought the DLE-55 from an authorized Canadian supplier and the DLE 30 from Jodi! Only the replacement modules and kill switches from China. Oh well - Caveat Emptor!
microdon2 - I have had the same problem and eventually had to replace the IGN module after trying to fix it. I now split neoprene tubing and glue it to the cowl wherever the plug wire exits or touches. I usually grind a little divot for the cable to sit in and line it with the neoprene. No troubles since. You can paint the neoprene to match the cowl if it shows too much.
08-24-2011, 04:03 PM
#4825
RE: NEW DLE30!
I installed a DLE30 in a GP YAK54 designed for an OS 160. Came out tail heavy.
Instructions state to locate engine 7.25" from firewall to front of prop drive washer.
The DLE30 comes out approx 6.25" with supplied standoffs.
Should I/can I just use longer standoff or maybe just use a 1" plywood addition
to the firewall. I feel that mounting the engine 1" farther forward would help
my tail heavy proplem a lot. Any thoughts appreciated.
Instructions state to locate engine 7.25" from firewall to front of prop drive washer.
The DLE30 comes out approx 6.25" with supplied standoffs.
Should I/can I just use longer standoff or maybe just use a 1" plywood addition
to the firewall. I feel that mounting the engine 1" farther forward would help
my tail heavy proplem a lot. Any thoughts appreciated.