w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Most people's engines run fine out of the box and they are unaware of any of this

OldRookie

My Feedback: (13)

You wouldn't know it by reading this thread.

What makes you think that?

Greg

craigteffe

My Feedback: (24)

Just wait till spring when all the engines purchased are running, thats when we will see how many are having issues!

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

Read the thread, keep track of the people that express dissatisfaction with the engine, you will notice it's a small minority. We've sold over 200 DLE30s since August '09, not a single one has been returned for a warranty repair.

captinjohn

Craig, I forgot to say....total cost for what I did to the engine was zero. You can get free base gaskets from a place in Canada. Capt,n

OldRookie

My Feedback: (13)

Hardly any of the problems would fall under the warranty, and what would you do about it if the engines were sent in stating that they quit when tilted, or kill when landing. Hardly a warranty issue, and no real fix other than replacing the backplate.

Not all people that buy this engine participate in on line discussions, so you will never hear from them.

We will see this summer.

Greg

ol_seabee

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OldRookie

My Feedback: (13)

So you are saying that the neck strap helps the engine run better, and certifies that you are indeed an experienced pilot?

Me thinks you are a little full of your self.


Greg

ol_seabee

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sodbuster 1

I can only speak for myself, but out of the box mine doesn't hold a low idle well and will
only idle if I lean the low speed needle. The problem then becomes one of a lean nature when
trying to start the engine.

I've now run 4 tanks thru it and that hasn't changed.
While I haven't taken mine apart to check for "SPS" I can tell you it feels no rougher than any other gas engine I own
when I turn it thru by hand. Not cold and not hot either. Certainly in no way is it rough enough or tight enough to
overcome combustion.
As I've stated in the past my gut feeling is Cyberwolf has nailed the problem and come up with a solution.


That being said though my feelings are this:

1.) I bought a brand new design of an engine probably in its first run and fully expected there to be some
things to tinker with. Nothing that is a brand new design is perfected in it's first production run. NOTHING.
Hopefully once a manufacturer gets the design down pat they recocgnize the fault and if not make good
on it at least make the fix available cheaply to those that took a leap of faith and the chance on that first run

2.) I have other engines I've had to tinker with and even replace some parts due to design flaws from
MUCH more established manufacturers that have been producing those engines in question for YEARS
with many many production runs under their belts.

3.) I got a powerhouse of an engine at a price no other engine can touch and would be happy to throw
a few bucks at it to perfect it. But just a few. After all, like everyone else, I like a bargain.That's why
myself and everyone else in this thread has bought one of these.

What I'm saying is, give it time they'll get it right. This is an incredible company that is growing tremendously
and obviously trying to give us the consumer what we want.

But beware, once they have it perfected?

IT WON'T BE SO CHEAP NO MORE!!!

seagull extra

My Feedback: (12)

It will probably get even cheaper.

ol_seabee

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captinjohn

Sodbusrer...said...I can only speak for myself, but out of the box mine doesn't hold a low idle well and will
only idle if I lean the low speed needle. The problem then becomes one of a lean nature when
trying to start the engine..
.
That is correct. Al you need to learn is how to start the engine in that lean mode. Well it takes a little experimenting, but my DLE30cc engine will start good doing this. Close choke all the way...flip untill engine fires...then open choke 1/8 inch & set idle speed up 4-5 clicks. Flip engine over & it should start & stay running. As engine warms up you can open the choke all the way. Do not be afraid too try the settings a tiny bit more open or closed on the choke & throttle. When you get the right combo....its a piece of cake. Capt,n

Syssa Pilot

My Feedback: (7)

I did find aproblem with my ignition! I cut off the plugs to solder the wires from cdi box to pickupsensor, One of the wires pulled out of the plug very easy, on close inspection i found a piece of insulation still mon the wire ... I t was never stripped properly, that was causing an intrmitent signal that gave me FITS All soldered now. No problems Ser# C00069

sodbuster 1

Ol Seabee,
I have quite a number of engines both gas and glow.
I've never had an engine that wasn't broken in enough to hold an idle after 4 tanks of fuel.
With the break in tank i use that was around 4 hours .
Regardless of what the " guru's" at TBM may say, as far as holding an idle, that's plenty broken in. Broken in for sustained full throttle, hanging on the prop full load 3D style TBM broken in? No, not yet..... I wouldn't even attempt it for another few tanks.

Fuel delivery problem? That's a different story....

Cap'n,
I hear what you're saying and I'm aware that what you're saying will and does work to get it started, but that doesn't make it right or reliable and it still won't idle properly when warmed up to the point you can drop the idle to 1,900-2000 and hold it there to will allow a plane to sit in one place without rolling out.Try it on asphalt.
It'll hold a somewhat reliable idle at 2,200-2,300.That's just too high.Maybe not for flying, or for an approach, but land it and try to taxi it back to the cockpit at an idle of 2,300 and see how fast you can stop the plane before it hits another plane on the ground or better yet another pilot/spectator without first killing the engine altogether.

This is a fuel delivery problem that at least you, myself and a number of others are combating.My guess and from the results Jodi has reported using Cybers rear intake mod (1,800 rpm) clarify that statement.
I for one believe his results.

As I said, great little engine.PLENTY of bang for the buck. Cannot WAIT to maiden it in the spring.It's sitting in a 9 lb airframe! What's not to like about that!!??

Does it have a drawback?

YUP.

Hopefully either Cyber or DLE comes up with an affordable rear mount kit.
I'll be in line once that happens and will have the kind of reliable running engine that
I can trust completely.As all my other engines are.

As soon as DLE releases a rear induction version I'll have at least one more of these too!
There's a whole SLEW of airframes I'd like to throw one of these in.

ol_seabee

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Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Just for discussion about the break in.

The DLE is a very good engine in it's size, and especially for the price. There are a few things that could be better but only at higher cost to the buyer. Some of those little things effect the break in. Tolerances, assembly fit, and materials used for several components contribute to a longer break in.

Many know I use a lot of 3w products. What they don't know is those products are carefully matched before being put to use. Bores are checked. Ring stops are inspected. Squish bands are corrected. Rings are carefully fit. Cranks are perfectly centered in the case. Cases are pressure tested. Reeds are sealed against leakage. Pop off pressure is established to exact levels. In spite of all that, not one engine is fully broken in after 1-1/2 hours of ground running in a carefully executed run profile. Some will quit early in the first flight.

I work and play with many other types of engines and none of those complete a break in in less than several hours of running time. My DLE 111 still hasn't finished breaking in after 14 hours of run time. If the DLE 30 can be broken in after 4 tanks of gas, likely totaing just over an hour of run time at most, it would have to be rated as the fastest engine on the planet where the break in process is concerned. Folks, I have a DLE 30 too so I know there are some people in this thread that don't have a clue.

OlSeabee,

I'm forced to agree with you about velocity stacks and the diaphragm hole stuff. The conditions that require them are not very prevalent. I think many use the product or perform the alteration out of a "monkey see, monkey do" syndrome. All my engines are cowled as well. Some rather tightly.

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

For the record, I've never had one here that wouldn't idle all day at 1800 within a couple of tanks, they sit still on black top,and I've never had one die on landing, with the exception of one all are in stock configuration without aplenum stuffer. For me the Cyberplate prevents dying when tilted on the ground (a non-issue), fuel spitting from the carb and allows the engine to fit narrower cowls that's it.

dale691

I was having trouble with fuel spitting out of the carby. The one thing i did forget to mention is that I had turned the carby 180 so I could get to the needles. probable makes no difference.

Not wanting to be accused of using fancy words like velocity stack, I installed a tube looking thingy over the hole in the thing that is hanging from the side of the motor where the needles are kept.[sm=teeth_smile.gif]

Problem solved, leaned both high and low ends and running very well, and as an added bonus the fire wall is dry.

dale691

On another note has anyone used the JTEC pitts muffler?

Is it any quieter than the stock muffler?

ol_seabee

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sodbuster 1

Jodi, if I mis-spoke about your findings I apologize.
Just seems to me I remember you posting that after installing the back intake mod you got 1800 rpm. maybe I ASSUMED the engine wasn't doing that previously. If I did, again, i apologize.


As far as needing more break in for a reliable running idle?
Hey I'll find out as soon as it ever warms up around here. I hope you're all right and I'm wrong!!!

Wouldn't be the first time.
But i don't think that's the case here.

Will get back to you in the spring

jedijody

My Feedback: (1)

No need to apologize.

Iget all of them to idle at that speed with no modifications at all. I think because I've done so much with these engines trying to help people resolve what they feel are intolerable idiosyncrasies, then write about each one, some that don't read the whole thread don't get the whole picture. None of the mods I've ever done to them were because I had difficulty with them. Since their release I have never seen one that wouldn't run acceptably on a suitably sized airframe box stock, of 4 we have in planes only one has had anything done to it and that's the one with the Cyberplate. Iknow of a couple people that have put plenum stuffers in but the rest are out there running box stock.

You maywant to re-read what Iwrote about the Cyberplate though. I set my idles at about 1800 on all the little 1/4 scale planes, with a small piece of glow tubing on my axles just to prevent my wheels from free spinning they all sit still on black top. The Cyberplate allowed the engine to idle as low as 1450, it won't hold it all day but there is no point in an idle that low anyway, if one needsthe DLE30 toidle that slow they would be better off with a different engine swinging a smaller prop.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

If an engine cannot achieve and maintain a minimum of 90c, with better consistency being obtained at 100c, an engine will not have a reliable idle, nor will there be accurate setting of mixtures. An engine must heat soak before the various internal tolerances can effectively interact to provide consistent performance.

captinjohn

For the people that do not know. The Cyberplate is more than just a plate adapter. It uses a reed box that most likely has reeds & reed seats that seal mutch better. That helps to stop that spitting out the carb. I am sure some of the stock DLE30 reed valves are not sealing good on a none machined surface. A reed valve is just a one way air/fuel mix valve. Capt,n