TerryE

My Feedback: (12)

Mike;

Looking good. BTW, what is a "carbon tow"... your accent is kicking in again

I am always impressed at the amount of engineering that goes into the larget models. As I have not flown anything bigger than a .80 size, I am not familiar with the building techniques for the 1/4 and larger scale models. This is an excellent learning experience, and I thank you for the "primer" on just whats involved.

Thanks

Terry

BaldEagel

Terry

You may know it under a different name over the pond, but its just a long string of carbon fibres in a straight line, these are usually used in any structure that needs strengthening in a straight line or within a restricted area, easier to lay up than glass cloth, just strip off the width you need and inpregnate with resin. Have a look at the pic.

The building techniques are no different at 1/4 scale, you just have to scale up everything, it is just an engineering excercise, for example instead of relying on a butt joint between two pieces of timber, make a halving joint or tennon, its easy because you have a decent thickness of material to work with, this would not work with timber of 1/16", the same with using a bit of angle ali to connect two right angle pieces of plywood in a high stressed area it transferes the load much more efficiently, but you could not do that on a small plane as the increase in weight would out weigh the advantages. Don't let anyone tell you its difficult, its not, just requires a bit of lateral thinking on the scale of things.

Oh incidently its you that has the accent not me.

Mike

BaldEagel

More pics showing the motor box and manifold, also showing the box placed into postion to establish spinner location relative too the cowling, next will have to establish the correct thrust lines. The motor box will be attached too the fus with angle ali on both sides of the firewall the inside angle will form the attachement point for the silencer box sides, this box I envisage going all the way back to the UC mounting formers to stiffen up the front section which I consider weak. Note how little of the motor is exposed under the cowl even with the ISO mount using the ignition mounting frame, it all fits inside the massive cowl on this plane, in fact even my head fits inside.

Mike

TerryE

My Feedback: (12)

Now there is a pic to post!!

BaldEagel

Using my Hanger 9 Digital inclinometer I was able to establish that I have two deg's of right thrust and point one deg of down thrust, thats near enough.

And Terry you asked for it.

Mike

TerryE

My Feedback: (12)

That's my new Wallpaper

Almost as good as a lampshade on your head!

G&T time? Have at least one (preferably 2 or 3) for me

Thanks mike - you made my day

Terry

taildragger21

My Feedback: (197)

This is the same plane offered by nitroplanes and ak models.. Havent seen a 100cc size from them yet?? Wonder if they will sell one?? Can't get jamara in the states I dont think..

BaldEagel

taildragger21

Jamara are the German distributor, the plane is accually manufactured by CMPro (China Model Productions) they are supposedly doing a larger version, which I also have not seen yet, seen the smaller one which looks very similar to the Yak that they also produce in two sizes.

Mike

apostle

Mike,
you're great keep those pics and the step by step coming in .FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!
Paul

apostle

Mike
You've really done some exceptional work on the JAMARA, to be honest however, it really is beyond my capabilities for the time beeing anyhow. Can you pls advise as to what ISO MOUNT I can use for the existing engine box on the CMPro 330?. I can see that the box can just barely support the engine dimensions. Do you think I can get away with using the supplied box and is there an iso mount that I can use? If I pay all your expences, have as a guest in my home, cook for you, drive you around and show you the sites, will you concider in coming to RHODES for a week and finishing the plane for me?
PAUL

TerryE

My Feedback: (12)

Go for it Mike - there may be good fishing!

BaldEagel

Paul

The ISO mounts shewn in the pic are just thimble types with bolts at either end , these may work, but again you would need to add some ail angle to reinforce the edge of the box for the bolt to go through and wrap the end of the box as extra reinforcement, one end directly into the engine mount, not as the pic.

I assume you where joking about the trip, but a very nice offer thank you.

Mike

apostle

Mike,
What is the differnce between the thimble type with bolts on either end and the one that you are using when it comes to isolating vibrations from the engine? As for reinforcing the box, I will do exactly as you've described in the pics you've posted by adding the ail angle as you have done. You say that this iso mount may work, is there a reoson as to why it should'nt? As for the invitation, if ever you decide to come to Rhodes on holiday I will personally make sure that will be a holiday you will never forget! That goes for you too Terry!
Paul

TerryE

My Feedback: (12)

Paul;

Cool, thanks. I will keep it in mind, as Rhodes is one of the places I have always wantd to visit (actually , all of Greece is, but Rhodes is especially enticing).

Thanks

Terry

PS; I should mention that the invitation goes both ways - If you ever come to the USA (I live just outside of Washington DC) you are most welcome at our home, and as my guest

Terry

apostle

Mike,
one other question. Can you tell me the type of iso mount in the pic, its dimensions and where I can buy one?
Paul

Adam G

My Feedback: (17)

Mike,

Wow, that is a very clean installation yo have going there. I like the way the cannister snakes around and cleanly enters the fuse, all being concealed by the lamp shade, I mean Cowl. I have heard mixed reviews on iso mounts. Some say they work well, while others claim they amplify the vibration. Your looks to be engineered very well. I am remounting my 50cc on my Cap after a mishap. Would be nice to get rid of some vibration while I am at it.

Adam

BaldEagel

Paul

The pics shew the parts and an assembled MVVS purpose supplied ISO Mount, its much stiffer than the thimbles and they are quite wide apart hence the new motor box, the thimble type I shewed in the last post are softer and about 20mm dia and 20mm deep, the reason I said they may work is that as mine are mounted I can't tell if they would fit straight on the original box off the engine mount, I don't particually whant to take mine apart to find out. The ideal is to have the mounts spaced as far apart as possible and as close to the engine as possible also, again hence the new motor box, they don't amplify the vibration, but they do let the engine move around which may give the perception of added vibration, certainly at tick over the whole thing will jump around at the front as opposed to the tail of the aircraft with a solid mount, as soon as you open up the vibration dampens down considerably. I will see if I can locate some of the thimble ones for you. As too coming too Rhodes I may well take you up on that one day.

Adam

Thanks for the compliment on the Yak installation, took a lot of head scratching to get the 58pro fitted into the standard motor box with the ISO mounts as the box is a composite part of the structure I was not able to modify it to fit the MVVS mount. The thimble mounts may work for your CAP as well? See you in Rhodes

Mike

BaldEagel

Paul

The Proper name for the Thimble type mounts is a "Lord Mount" do a web search I am sure you will find some, Sullivan do some in smaller sizes, but I am afraid I can not remember from whom I got mine.

Mike

BaldEagel

More pics shewing the mods needed for the cannister installation in the fus, the originall tank support has been cut in half and the forward UC former has been relived to allow the cannister to sit lower, the cannister will be inside a ply box which will go forward too the firewall, this will also reinforce the UC formers which are not the best, Carbon tows will be used to reinforce the UC formers where they are short of the side of the fus.

Mike

BaldEagel

Not much progress today as my Scroll saw packed up and I had to go get a replacement, which I did under guarantee and when I got it home it did not work, so back I went again and got a different one, give them their due they gave me two packs of saw blades for my trouble.

Pic shows the two formers in temp position which will form the cannister tunnel, the box needs to be a bit wider to allow air to circulate and exit in the still to be formed slots on the underside, I will be forming a lid over this to position the tank on over the CofG, more maybe tommorow.

Mike

claudbosc

Good job....

BaldEagel

Pic shews the final posisioning of the cannister, this will entail a 2" drop manifold to get the cannister as low as possible within the fus, the formers shewn still have to be cut down to height and the top made to make the tank base, I read on another thread on this aircraft that the firewall and U/C is a weak area, therefore the U/C formers and the bulkhead will all be reinforced to compensate, perhaps the low original weight of this bird is not as good as I first thought, the additional weight at the front all this is occasioning may need to be compensated for at the rear, lots of room at the back for a rear mounted rudder servo as I did in my Edge RIP.

Mike

claudbosc

Sorry,but the tank fuel???Where the mounts?

[sm=confused.gif]

BaldEagel

I have to make it yet the top of the cannister tunnel will be closed over with ply and the tank base will be over the c of g just forward of the wing tube, keep watching and all will be revealed.

Mike

claudbosc

you can insert photo? when you make the job…