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Next we'll install the tailwheel assembly. Locate a 2-56 ball link from the hardware package. Screw a short length of 2-56 pushrod into the ball link and cut the pushrod off one half inch beyond the end of the ball link. Drill a hole in the bottom of the rudder 2 inches back from the hingeline to accept the 2-56 pushrod. Mix up some 5 minute epoxy and apply to the threads of the 2-56 rod. Also force some epoxy into the hole in the bottom of the rudder. Screw the ball link into the bottom of the rudder until it is flush and then make a fillet around the ball link with epoxy and allow to dry.

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Before installing the actual tailwheel unit I highly recommend spending a few minutes to loctite all set screws. For best results remove all set screws and collars and file flat spots on the actual tailwheel wire. This will allow the set screws to seat properly resulting in a much more secure assembly.

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Use a sharp hobby knife to remove the covering from the two holes on the tailwheel gear mounting plate as shown. Slide the tailwheel tiller arm into the ball link on the bottom of the rudder and secure the tailwheel by inserting 2 3mm socket head cap screws through the carbon tailwheel bracket and into the premounted blind nuts in the tailwheel mounting plate. Make sure to use a couple of drops of loctite here. Slide the tailwheel onto the wire and secure with a wheel collar.

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Now lets install the engine. Scott includes a template with the 366GT that makes this easy. We will supply a similar template for the DA-50 in the instruction manual. The reference lines for mounting have been scribed on the front of the firewall. Looking at the firewall from the front you can see the center lines and thrust offset line.

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Tape the template to the front of the firewall. Make sure that the vertical line you use for reference is the one on the right of the center line. Drill a pilot hole at each specified location, then drill to correct size for the mounting bolts, which for the Brillelli are 5mm.

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Trail fit the motor to the mount to be sure all is correct. You may wish to paint a light coat of alcohol thinnned epoxy on the inside of the motor box (I always do). If so do this now. Insert the 5mm bolts along with a wide washer through the back of the firewall and into the stand offs. Make sure to use loctite here. Tighten, but do not crush the plywood.

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If you are gong to use a tuned pipe now is the time to install it. Remove the covering from the bottom of the pipe tunnel as shown in the pictures. You will need to remove the center stringer and and part of 2 formers. A razor saw makes quick work of this. Also remove the covering from the front of the pipe tunnel under the motor box. Seal the covering to the edges of the pipe tunnel and brush a light coat of alcohol thinned epoxy over these edges to prevent gas from seeping under the covering.

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I have been using the Dave Brown tuned pipe mount on these planes and it works great. With the carbon pipe, heat is not an issue and you can secure the pipe directly to the mount with a nylon cable tie. Using an aluminum pipe, you must slide some silicon fuel tubing over the cable tie to prevent the heat from melting it. You will also need to use a piece of silicon tubing between the pipe and mount to insulate the mount from the heat.
My pipe mount technique is very easy and involves very little hassle. First cut a piece of 1/64 ply to fit the width of the pipe tunnel floor, 2 inches wide. Next cut a piece of 1/4 inch light ply into a 1 inch by 2 inch piece. Drill a hole in the center of the 1/4 ich ply and mount the nylon mount to the ply with the wood screw included with the mount. Place a drop of CA on the threads as you insert it into the hole. Next glue the 1/4 inch ply plate to the 1/64 ply, centered. Finally glue the whole assembly to the floor of the pipe tunnel at 3/4 of the length of the pipe. For the bigger KS 1060 pipe on the DA set-up I glued the pipe mount to the side of the tunnel for better clearance.
Secure the pipe to the header using the required hardware and to the mount with a nylon cable tie.
Pictures are much better for this!

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If using a pipe or canister, you will need to raise the throttle servo away from the header. I glued 2 pieces of 3/8 inch spruce to each side of the servo hole and mounted the throttle servo. The linkage is pretty much a straight shot from the servo to the throttle arm.

cadconversions

My Feedback: (21)

I know, no chit chat...so I just wanted to say that the tail wheel assembly using the ball link is awesome. Direct connection and response without really being connector. Way to go!

diamondave

My Feedback: (29)

i thought the same thing about the tailwheel, i havent seen it done that way, i like it

TailTouch

My Feedback: (54)

Chris.
Do you have to re-inforce the motorbox using tristock in this plane like we did in the older Yak ?

Thanks.

RREEL

Fred Midgett has posted a new video of the 88 inch Yak, 74 inch Yak, and 45 inch Edge on his site at www.higherplaneproductions.com
It's in HD and features some cool air-to-air footage.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

This 28 meg Quicktime as well as two additional versions (11.7 meg medium and 4.8 meg lower quality windows media files) are now available from EF's Site...

http://www.extremeflightrc.com

See the media page...

Born2Fly

My Feedback: (21)

Air-to-Air footage is awesome
I should make my own "4 models video" EF 68'' Yak, Edge-540 profile, E-Yak and hopefully 88" Yak.

Maudib

My Feedback: (51)

I'm pretty sure this is just a "Trailer" for a longer video to come... the air to air footage shot from an UltraLite IS way cool.....

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Use a sharp pair of scissors to trim the excess plastic from the perimeter of the louver plate. Open an area in front of where the engine cylinder will be to allow cooling air to be ducted over the engine. Use epoxy to glue the louver plate to the front of the cowl from the inside. The pictures show how I have mine cut.

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Assemble your tank and use nylon cable ties to secure it. Butt the tank up against the wing tube. The last picture shows where I installed my fuel dot.

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Electronically center your elevator servos and install the 1.5 inch servo arms. Use a sharp hobby knife to remove the covering from the servo arm slots. You may need to enlarge the end of the slots to allow full deflection. This is easily accomplished using a rotary tool and a 1/4 drum sanding attachment. Mount the servo inside the elevator with the output shaft toward the leading edge of the stab.

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There are 4 titanium turnbuckle pushrods included in the hardware package. The 2 longest are for the elevators. Thread the ball links onto the pushrods (remember that the threads on each end of the turnbuckle pushrods are opposite threaded). Make sure the elevator stays in the neutral position and insert the ball link between the 2 composite control horns ans secure with a 3mm bolt and nylon insert locknut. You will need to drill out the hole on the SWB servo arm to accept the 3 mm bolt. Secure the pushrod at the servo arm side with the 3mm bolt and nylon insert lock nut. Adjust the turnbuckle until the servo arm is 90 degrees perpendicular to the servo case and the elevator is centered. Repeat for the other elevator half.

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Locate the plywood rudder servo mounting plate in the hardware package. Center the plate on the mounting beams and make some reference marks. Use 30 minute epoxy to secure the plate to the beams. Clamp until dry.

Edge

Chris, what is the reccomended spinner size??

jrjohn

My Feedback: (24)

Would and 8611 rudder servo on 6 volts be enough for this plane? (has to be able to do a knife edge loop)

john

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4" spinner.
8611 will be fine for rudder.

JWilliams

My Feedback: (6)

John, I am guessing Chris did not see your question so I will try it. We addressed this in the 68" manual also, but the need for spacing is critical. If memory serves, and sometimes mine doesn't, you will need a minimum of .75" and if you can get 1" all the better. Not sure what or why QQ recommends what he does but I am willing to say for the same reasons EFRC does, prop efficiency. If the air has no place to go behind the prop it will not pull the air thru the blade, thus it is cavitation and inefficiency. So by putting it farther out the cowling you are gaining efficiency. I have not seen this plane in person to know about how you will need to cut the cowl, but on the 87" I have mine is about an inch and performance is good. Hope this helps.
Jeff Williams