older 50cc airframe - need some advise on electronics / gear
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (4)
older 50cc airframe - need some advise on electronics / gear
Hello all. I have an older Aeroworks Katana 29% airframe that I am going to use as my first 50cc size aerobatic. I have experience with smaller scale gas/glow as well as scale warbirds.
I would like to use dual batteries for the receiver/servos as well as a battery for the ignition. I have hitec 7955s for the ailerons and rudder. I have a DLE55 ready to install.
My questions are: What batteries to use : Life / A123 or lipo? size.
What about a smart-fly system to handle the voltage/amp draws from the servos and manage the batteries? Any recommended system? Are most people just using direct wiring/switches. What about a ign. kill switch.
I have the fiji fuel tank setup as well ready to go.
I understand these katanas are really tail heavy so I don't mind the extra useful weight and shifting things forward.
It is basically an empty sheet - ready to go. I would like to do it right the first time- - but without breaking the bank.
Your input is truly appreciated.
I would like to use dual batteries for the receiver/servos as well as a battery for the ignition. I have hitec 7955s for the ailerons and rudder. I have a DLE55 ready to install.
My questions are: What batteries to use : Life / A123 or lipo? size.
What about a smart-fly system to handle the voltage/amp draws from the servos and manage the batteries? Any recommended system? Are most people just using direct wiring/switches. What about a ign. kill switch.
I have the fiji fuel tank setup as well ready to go.
I understand these katanas are really tail heavy so I don't mind the extra useful weight and shifting things forward.
It is basically an empty sheet - ready to go. I would like to do it right the first time- - but without breaking the bank.
Your input is truly appreciated.
#2
My Feedback: (15)
I would use the Smart-Fly Power system sport plus. It has everything you need...an optical kill switch, voltage regulator for the receiver AND a voltage regulator for the servos. It is designed to be used with dual LiFe Batteries for redundancy. I have around 12 flights on my plane and IT ROCKS! You should check it out https://www.smart-fly.com/Products/P...ersystems.html
When we use high torque servos we run into the small problem of high current drain situations and sometimes I get a little bit nervous when I realize that all the current is crossing the voltage bus in the receiver. I did something really cool with mine, I ran a 6.0 volt green LED out of a spare port on the power system up into the cockpit so I would positively know when my flight system is energized. My Smart-fly power system is buried so there would be no way to really tell if energized. The system fails to on. I used a soft switch (pin and flag) from Troy B models. I think it was 12 bucks. On the switch port it uses the two outside pins to influence the unit to turn off. That's all for now...good luck!
When we use high torque servos we run into the small problem of high current drain situations and sometimes I get a little bit nervous when I realize that all the current is crossing the voltage bus in the receiver. I did something really cool with mine, I ran a 6.0 volt green LED out of a spare port on the power system up into the cockpit so I would positively know when my flight system is energized. My Smart-fly power system is buried so there would be no way to really tell if energized. The system fails to on. I used a soft switch (pin and flag) from Troy B models. I think it was 12 bucks. On the switch port it uses the two outside pins to influence the unit to turn off. That's all for now...good luck!
#3
My Feedback: (11)
You really don't need dual packs, but if you want to run them get a couple of A123's and a Tech Aero IBEC
I run all my stuff up to my 60cc Corvus on one A123 2500mah pack. Get a smart fly super switch, its got heavy duty input and dual jr outputs to your receiver, the IBEC will power the ignition.
Savox 1231's work great on that size plane.
If you fly Spektrum a 9 channel power safe receiver is the best option for dual packs too.
I run all my stuff up to my 60cc Corvus on one A123 2500mah pack. Get a smart fly super switch, its got heavy duty input and dual jr outputs to your receiver, the IBEC will power the ignition.
Savox 1231's work great on that size plane.
If you fly Spektrum a 9 channel power safe receiver is the best option for dual packs too.
#4
My Feedback: (11)
You really don't need dual packs, but if you want to run them get a couple of A123's and a Tech Aero IBEC
I run all my stuff up to my 60cc Corvus on one A123 2500mah pack. Get a smart fly super switch, its got heavy duty input and dual jr outputs to your receiver, the IBEC will power the ignition.
Savox 1231's work great on that size plane.
If you fly Spektrum a 9 channel power safe receiver is the best option for dual packs too.
I run all my stuff up to my 60cc Corvus on one A123 2500mah pack. Get a smart fly super switch, its got heavy duty input and dual jr outputs to your receiver, the IBEC will power the ignition.
Savox 1231's work great on that size plane.
If you fly Spektrum a 9 channel power safe receiver is the best option for dual packs too.
#9
My Feedback: (10)
I'm flying a yak 54 with a DLE55 in her. I have two batteries for servos and receiver and one for ignition. I'm using batshare for the two NiMh 2500v batteries and a kill switch for the 4.8V ignition battery. Never had a problem with this system and have over 50 flights on the aircraft. As far as I'm concerned.... the simpler the better. No need for all that extra "crap" for me.