redcesar

Yes Steve and i have seen the pictures too, brrrr that looks not nice, I hope you are completely be recover Steve.

Cesar.

SoCalSal

My Feedback: (16)

Ruud, I am getting along well. nothing but some scars and a big dip in my arm where there used to be meat. Still have some numbness in my lower arm and hand..maybe it will go away in about a year.
Steve

Cybertom

RedCesar,

What are the incidence settings for the Upper Wing, Lower Wing, and Stabalizer? Also any thrust angle on the engine?

redcesar

Hi Tom,

Engine=1Ā° down trust and 1,5Ā° side trust
upperwing -2Ā°
lowerwing 0Ā°
stabalizer +2Ā°

Regards,

Cesar.

Cybertom

RedCesar,

The full scale configuration on a Stearman is +4 degrees upper wing, +3 degrees lower wing and +3 degrees stabalizer. Do you know if your settings are the same as a full scale WACO?

redcesar

Tom,

I do not know the settings of the full scale Waco, the settings I used came out of the manual from Peter Barth.

BigBoy99

Hi guys,

surfin through the net I found a manufacturer of wonderful cockpits,

for many types, also for the Waco. But it has itĀ“s price!

look here: http://www.noll-modelltechnik.de/coc...unstflug_2.htm


Regards

Bernie

Alexzzz

Expensive it is [:-]

Greetz.

redcesar

Yes that are prices......


Maybe not so profesional and a litle bit low budget but I take a picture and scale it to the right size and print it on a color printer then i glued it on a piece of ABS and folded on the right places. After that I sealded with transparent lacquer.

redcesar

Hi all,

With the use of a great round cowl is the cooling of the engine not so good. For a better airflow through the engine I have made baffle plates round the cillinders.

Regards,

Cesar.

Alexzzz

Looking good, it'll work just fine I think What glue did you use?

I'm hoping to fly tomorrow, but if I look at the weather forecast, it won't be as good as I hoped....

Greetz.

redcesar

Hi Alex,

I used UHU plus endfest 300, I think you no which glue that is. If you put your work in a oven, if that is possible, on 100`C it become verry strong. I hope it wil work and stay in one piece.

Cesar.

Alexzzz

Ok, good to know, I'll keep that in mind[8D]

Greetz.

BigBoy99

Hi Ruud and others,

I read it in another thread, that some guys had problems with cooling the engine.

Important is, that the sum of area, where the hot air is going out, bigger is, than the area

of the intake.If not, you have a congestion of heat and a reduced airflow.

What could be help, is to make the distance between the formed frontring and the cowl bigger.

That means, set the cowl 1cm more to the front, IĀ“m shure, that works.

Regards

Bernie

Look here, post 141 : http://www.rc-network.de/forum/showt...=36236&page=10

redcesar

Yes that is true, the outlet should normaly be bigger than the inlet.

But is it not so that because of the radius of the frontring and the correct place of the outside edge of the cowl together you get a area of underpressure that, when you are in flight, sucks the air out of the cowl which seemingly increase the area of the outlet. Maybe if you change the distance it became seemingly smaller.

What do you think?

BigBoy99

I would recommend, at first try your construction, perhaps itĀ“s enough.

If not, try it to set the cowl more in direction front. If you have enough space between prop and cowl!

You canĀ“t do much more!


I was a bit scrupling about the Moki 250, it seemĀ“s, itĀ“s a bit to much performance, I have no good feeling.

Now I ordered the 215, thatĀ“s enough. Airworld sayĀ“s, 6-8 weeks delivery time!

Ruud, I need your help: can you give me the weight, wich your Waco loads on the tailweel?

I am now, with all the two servos, and the complete pretendable and adjustable stab and fin with all rudders and the tail weel at 2065g,

and I donĀ“t know, is it too much, or is it in the limit.WhatĀ“s additionally comes is covering, the fairing of the stab and a few parts.

I think, when sheĀ“s ready, there is a load of 2500g on the tailweel. ThatĀ“sa lot of [sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif][sm=confused.gif]


Regards and have a nice sunday

Bernie

redcesar

Hi Bernie,

Without the wings, so only the fuse, I put a balance under the tailwheel and measure 2,3 kG.

Dont be afraid that the tail is to heavy, you put in front a Engine that weights I think more than 5 kG. The engine I have used weights with the cannisters around 4 kG so maybe you need that extra weight on the tailside for a correct SG.

On my Waco the two battery packs are mounted in the midle of the lower wing for a correct "schwerpunkt".

Hope this info wil help you further on.

REgards.
Cesar.

BigBoy99

Hi Ruud,

thank you for this information, it is god to know this.

About your cooling problem- airworld offers a fan for the Moki 215 and 250, these engines have

sometimes too probs with the cooling, this could be another solution for you:



Regards

Bernie

BigBoy99

Hi Ruud,
I need again your help, sorry!
Peter Barth writes in his instructions, the way of the elevator 20mm up and 15mm down, that seems a little bit less. Now I have both directions 50mm!!![sm=confused.gif]
At the servoside IĀ“m at the inner hole, there is a distance from 20mm to the axleof the servo. At the rudderside IĀ“m at the outer hole with a
distance of 40 mm to the elevator axle. More is impossible because inside of the tail is not enough space.
The only way is in my opinion to program an expo by the transmitter.
Which movements makes your elevator up and down?
With the HT 5955TG IĀ“m very content, its unbelievable, what a power can have such a small servo!
Soon I will attach more pics here.

Regards

Bernie

redcesar

Hi Bernie,

My elevator movement is aprox 30 mm up and 30 mm down and the distance "axle servo" is 16 mm and the distance elevator horn is 35 mm.

I be used to fly with dualrate "On" at the start and landing. Small movement of the elevator with start and landing and with some airbatic figures the full 30 mm up and down.

In the transmitter ATV on elev = 100 up -100% down

Dualrate = 100-70% for down
100-60% for up

How you make your battery setup? Are you using a Powerbox or something like that?

And what is your opinion about the new 2,4 gHZ transmitters?

Regards,

Cesar.

BigBoy99

Hi Ruud,

thanks for the info, thatĀ“s an idea with dual rate.

I wanna use a system from Deutsch, Powerbox competition with two LipoĀ“s 2800 ma/h:

http://www.powerbox-systems.com/e/po...tion/start.php

http://www.powerbox-systems.com/e/po...tery/start.php

All cables for the servos are 0,5mm drilled

The 2,4 GHZ tecnology is my favorite RC, but here in Germany it takes all a lot of time, until something

new is etablished. In USA it works since a few years without probs, only these "stupid" germans are

not in a position to realize it[>:][>:][>:]. I can wait for it.


Regards

Bernie

BigBoy99

Hi Ruud and others,

after 3 weeks work at the stearing elements here a few results of it, the two servos for the elevator and the adjustment of the stab are installed

and are working fine, but it was a hard work, servo in, servo out, servo arm in, servo arm out, elevator arm in and elevator arm out and so long.....

ItĀ“s unbelievable, what time this work needs, after the quick progress by starting to built the wings and fuse.

And I can only repeat, IĀ“m glad, that I made the whole stab pretendable. The handling of it is much mor easyier!

The next steps are, glue in the fin, and make the stearing connections for it. After this I have to match the Elevator to fin fairing.

But see self:


Regards
Bernie

skylarkmk1

Hi Bernie,

Nice work, even if it does take time. The details take as long to do as the basic build. I like your outboard elevator hinges (Picture 3). What are you using for the bearings, plain or ball bearing? And what are your using for the ā€œUā€ Bolt to clamp the bearing to the stab? Attached is a picture of the hinge on YMF Classic NC14081 to compare with yours. Looks like a good match to me.

BigBoy99

Hi John,

the outer bearings are ball bearings, 6mm diameter inside. They are pressed and glued in to the aluminum part

The axle is a 6mm aluminum tube pressed in to the hardwood part.

The clamps are simple welding wires with a thread on both ends.

HereĀ“s a little drawing:


Regards
Bernie

redcesar

Nice piece of work Bernie, and I now what you mean with the great amount of work. I have just only make the stab pretendable and even that was a lot of work and that is in comparison with your work a piece of cake.

The hinges you made looks indeed very scale.

I am ready with the baffles in the colw now and waiting for a bit better weather for the next flights. My vacation is comming soon so I hope for a litle bit better weather.

Cesar.