akroblade954

Hi

Weight wise you will probably be OK. The ZDZ80 weighs less than a Zenoah 62, which some people say makes it balance perfectly with no additional weight. However, I would be more concerned about the size of prop you are going to need. There is minimal clearance with a 22 inch prop, but I would suggest the ZDZ80 is going to need a minimum of 24 inch, even with a 3 blade prop. Have you thought about the clearance / prop sizes?

Adrian

Pavuk

Thank you,

this helps a lot. I have the same idea to cut out the front firewall wall and move it backwards the reinforce the structure with alluminium plate. the engine is a little big to fit in the cowl but three little cuts will do the job. I post the pictures when i'm finished with the instalation. then i will start the c.g. balancing.

two of my friends suspects that the front wheel mounting is not strong enough to handle the plane by landing and it will eventually brake. Has sombody any expiriences on this?

Thanks in advance.

Best regards
Daniel

Pavuk

Hi,

after advise of the supplier i have now a 22 inch prop that is suitable for this engine, i hope he was right, will see, when the motor will be tested on the ground in a fixture outside of the plane.

Thanks for your advise.

Best regards
Daniel

akroblade954

Hi Daniel

Your friends are correct in their opinion of the nose leg! After only one medium heavy bounce, mine bent quite badly. The metal they are made from is reasonably strong, but then they drilled and tapped it at the weakest point for the damping spring support platform [&:]

I had a few replacements turned out of solid steel, which are incredibly strong and has shown no sign of being bent yet. I could sell you one if you wish as I don't think I am going to need the spares!! They are made to the exact same dimensions as the original. However, you could put a spacer down inside it to increase the preload on the spring, which should give you a bit more ground clearance by reducing the amount the nose compresses over bumps or on landing.

Adrian

jarealty

My Feedback: (2)

My Cessna in action!

Captmicom

That really looks great! Good job!!

Pavuk

Looks verry great vverry nice job

flyinucrazy

My Feedback: (107)

Hey, akroblade

I will take a set of those gear, if you still have some extra.

Tim

ian51291

Hi Ian how does the crrc55 fit in the cowl,did you need to make holes for the plug caps or does it fit inside

Cheers

Ian

akroblade954

Hi Tim. Having moved house recently, all my models / spares in storage. I may have one spare so will let you know when i dig it all back out. Busy year this year - not flown the 182 once!!!!

flyinucrazy

My Feedback: (107)

Akroblade, I know the feeling. Shoot me an email when you get to them.

Tim

ianrussell

Hi, did no extra holes for the crrc55 plugs, they fit in very nicely. Only holes to make were for the exhaust, which don't look too bad. Busy getting new one ready over the winter so I'm looking at trying out a few ideas to change the exhaust.


Ian

ian51291

Well,mine has arrived today and cant wait to start it,im going with savox servos all round and got a crrc55 up front also using sub C's for radio and ignition,i will be going over the airframe with extra epoxy just to make sure,it dosn't seem much of a build considering the size of the thing,any advice would be welcome,BTW what size spinner is everone using.

cheers

Ian.

Airframe Inventer

If anyone is interested, I only have about 5 of these models left.
After that they are all gone.
I am sorry but because of the size of these huge boxes, thay can only be shipped within the United States.
If your interested, please send me a PM or visit my website.
Thanks, Richard

Captmicom

Hey Ian,

That sounds great. I thing that your 55cc engine will weigh the same as my RCGF 55cc did. I had to set my firewall back about ¾� to get the engine to fit. I used sub “C� batts for everything too. I have 2ea. 6.0 volt packs for the radio and 1ea. 4.8 volt for the engine. Even with all of the big batts, I still needed 1.5 lbs of lead on the firewall to balance it out! On a different note, I would be sure to use a 4.8v pack for the CDI if they call out for 4.8 to 6.0 volts because one thing is for cretin, when they say 4.8 to 6.0 volts they are not kidding. Some of the newer engines are coming out with a 4.8 to 7.2 volt CDI. I will look forward to seeing photos when you get it done.
BTW who was it that had made new front landing gear? I am looking for one a bit heaver too. Thanx

Captmicom

Captmicom

Sorry..... I used a 3.5in spinner on both of mine.

Captmicom

profmb

Hi all,
My Cessna is now virtually complete. From my contribution to this a few months back I mentioned that I am using a Saito FG57. This has two flexi pipe exhausts. I had studied some Cessna photos and they showed two 'vents' to the underside of the cowl. So I have replicated these to enable an exit for my exausts. You will see that i have also wired up a complete set of landing lights which are activated from a switch on the tranny.

I have a Biela 3 blade prop and a spinner from Tru-Turn. I had to set the FG back, and I did this by routing out the firewall. I have fitted aluminium brackets behind it and bolted through the firewall.

My biggest challenge now, is that it looks as though I need to put a lot of lead up front something like 4-6kg! I do not know exactly - but that is my task. How much have you guys had to add? How did you do this?

Matt

Captmicom

Hey Matt,

I had to put 1.5 lbs or about .7 kg with 2ea. sub "C" 6 volt flight packs and 1ea. 4.8 sub "C" CDI pack. My engine was an RCGF 55cc. I have built 2 now on the first I routed out the firewall too but on the second I took the time before putting the motor box together and cut the tab holders in the side walls, top, and bottom to set the whole firewall back where it needed to be.

Captmicom

profmb

Thanks for this Captmicom - I am struggling to understand why i need so much more weight. I am using Futaba servos at the rear (simple analogue jobs) - so three in all and a bit of extra cabling for the lights. I admit I have to set the plane up on the C of G balancer (just approximated with lifting on my thumbs so far!). I placed a great lump of lead on the cowl over the firewall and that seemed to do the job! Perhaps I should line out the cowl with lead and deaden the engine noise too!

I shall have another go this weekend...

Captmicom

It does not have as much to do with the radio gear as it does the weight of the PVC the fuse is made from and the length of it from the CG point back. There is a lot of plane back there.

Captmicom

Captmicom

Lining the cowl with lead is a trick that I will not do anymore because most cowls these days are very flimsy. So what I did was to screw it to one of the side ears on the motor box.

flyinucrazy

My Feedback: (107)

Captmicom, do you have pictures of how you did the motor box modification on the second build?
Tim

Captmicom

Tim,

Send me an email at [email protected] and I can send you a drawing.

Captmicom

ian51291

Hi Captmicom,thanks for the info.going back to fitting the crrc55 the distance from the stand offs to the prop hub is 143mm,the instructions say the distance from the firewall to the cowl should be around 150mm so i will have to put some spacers between the stand offs abd the firewall to get the correct measurement,maybe some hardwood.


Ian.

profmb

...sorry Captmicon that was ajoke about lining the cowl - but you know I was chatting with a guy who is producing 4 stroke 50cc engines earlier this week and he told me how hi fills his cowls with expanding foam, and then carves them out to channel the venting and accommodate the engine. If one lined the cowl with lead strips and then used this foam, maybe that would be a good solution...

However, for the moment I will melt some lead and make up weights to fix to the firewall in a weight box.