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Old 01-18-2015, 10:35 PM
  #1051  
rcguy59
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I can't imagine OS phasing out their glow and gas engines. What's that leave them with? Some overpriced outrunners? Ever seen one at the field? Me neither.
Old 01-19-2015, 04:24 AM
  #1052  
Rv7garage
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Guess I better buy that 7-cyl OS radial before it's too late!
Old 01-19-2015, 08:57 AM
  #1053  
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Went out flying yesterday with my H9 PA-18 powered by a Saito 1.8. The field I fly from has been taken over by the gas and electric guys. I guess I'm the last of the nitro heads and this assumption was reinforced when a spectator said he hasn't seen one of those engines in years.
Old 01-19-2015, 09:05 AM
  #1054  
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Don't worry about it. I have a feeling that glow will always be around; it is reliable, lighter and simpler than equivalent HP gasoline mills, and the manufacturers don't look like they're cutting production (which tells you more than anything that glow is alive and well!)

I would not trade my glow four-stroke huffers for petrol any day!
Old 01-19-2015, 12:04 PM
  #1055  
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I agree, gas has a ways to go before it can outpace glow, there heavy and complicated with a power to weight ratio no where near as good as glow, I don't understand why glow fuel is be coming so expensive
Old 01-19-2015, 12:08 PM
  #1056  
Rv7garage
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Because it can be, my friend. Simple economics, unfortunately

Imagine my my sticker shock when I just ordered a case of Sig fuel shipped to my door. The HAZMAT fee made me want to say not-nice things...!
Old 01-19-2015, 12:51 PM
  #1057  
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Wow I bet
Old 01-19-2015, 12:52 PM
  #1058  
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I think there may be a gas/glow solution in the future. There is a Norvel .40 that uses a glow plug with gasoline, as well as an OS and even an Enya with their own ultra hot plug. The big ones all have the big 'temper mental' ignition problems. You can mix your own fuel and avoid the haz mat fee. I find it cheaper to get the year's supply at the Toledo show. I never heard of OS giving up yet. T Tiger, Supertiger, Webra and Fox among others though. I have enough motors to get me through my lifetime. Even wearing out one every year, it would be a couple lifetimes.
Old 01-19-2015, 12:56 PM
  #1059  
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Yea I've seen that new OS that's basically a glow that burns pump gas, that's awesome IMO
Old 01-19-2015, 01:15 PM
  #1060  
stevegauth30
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Probably more economical, but I'll pass on it. I like the taste of glow fuel too much.
Old 01-19-2015, 01:26 PM
  #1061  
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First of all how many gallons of fuel do you burn? I burn on average 7gallons per my flying year. Now that I have more time on my hands I will likely use 14 gallons. That is still not enough fuel for me to switch to gas.I fly mostly giant now 1.60 O.S FXs . If I were going to switch over to gas I would personally have to burn 20 gals before I would even consider changing. Plus there are other things to consider as well. If you are running small Glow engines why go to gas? .35 to .75 you can go along way's on a gallon of fuel.There are many things to consider before you jump on the bandwagon to switch from Glow to gas .That's my take on it.

Last edited by Fs one; 01-19-2015 at 01:28 PM.
Old 01-19-2015, 08:04 PM
  #1062  
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1qwksport2.5 I got a question man, or your advice, I've got a Saito 100 and 125 and 82 all have been sitting without running for maybe 5 years, all 3 are gunked up with old coolpower nitro, what would be the best way to clean them out to get them running again? On a 2 stroke I would just take them apart but these 4 strokes are a pain to tear down so I'm trying to avoid that, thanks for any suggestions brother.
Old 01-20-2015, 03:51 AM
  #1063  
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Cool power won't gunk them up due to its synthetic oil. If they are truly gunked up, they may be rusty inside. If it's castor goop in fact, soak them in fresh fuel for awhile.
Old 01-20-2015, 04:48 AM
  #1064  
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Originally Posted by Rv7garage
Because it can be, my friend. Simple economics, unfortunately

Imagine my my sticker shock when I just ordered a case of Sig fuel shipped to my door. The HAZMAT fee made me want to say not-nice things...!
It is easy and cheaper to mix your own.
Old 01-20-2015, 05:50 AM
  #1065  
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Originally Posted by Sport_Pilot
It is easy and cheaper to mix your own.
He can't find a source for methanol for a reasonable price.
Old 01-20-2015, 07:51 AM
  #1066  
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Sometimes a local drag strip has methanol. I have been using the hardware store stuff. It is over $10 for 4 liters/quarts. Then the oil, and even harder to source nitro. I still have some from over 30 years ago. I don't use high nitro any more, and didn't fly big stuff, so it lasts. As I said, I get it at Toledo now for $13. We had a place in town that sold oil and chemicals that carried methanol and castor oil. No nitro. I only use a bit over a gallon of fuel now. For many years I used just over a liter. An .049 and a .15 don't go through a lot of fuel. Now I have a few .40 and .46 size planes that I like to use mostly because it is so windy here. They don't sound as nice as the little ones going 30,000 rpm, but give the same flying effect.

Last edited by aspeed; 01-20-2015 at 07:54 AM.
Old 01-20-2015, 09:20 AM
  #1067  
rafeeki
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Had the same issue with 2 FA 82s. Sprayed carburater cleaner, break cleaner will do the same into the intake and exhaust as well as the crankcase vent nipple. Waited and waited over night before I was able to turn them very slowly. Had to do that 6 or 7 times until the color of the stuff coming out changed from rusty to clear. Dont forget to oil them with after run oil.
DO NOT OPEN THEM. Go through the soaking process first. Even if a bearing is rusty u most probably still will be able to make it work. Saitos use gaskets, that is a pain in the neck... OS dont.

Last edited by rafeeki; 01-20-2015 at 09:23 AM.
Old 01-20-2015, 10:02 AM
  #1068  
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Originally Posted by rafeeki
.... Even if a bearing is rusty u most probably still will be able to make it work....
If you even think the bearings are rusty, I would NOT run the engine before replacing the bearings. What was said will free up castor oil or other crud, but IMHO it is not worth destroying the engine, especially a Saito, for lack of good bearings. But, that is just what I would do.

Sincerely, Richard
Club Saito #635; Saito 56, 100, 120abc, 130T, 180
YS F 120; Super Champion 61; Rhino 100; Cameron 19; Fox 35, K&B 29, 35, 40, 65; Kraft 61; OS 15, 25, 40, 46, 60, 61, 80; HB 15, 25, 61; Royal 25; Evolution. 36, 46, 61; Echo16cc glow; etc, etc.
Old 01-20-2015, 10:34 AM
  #1069  
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Originally Posted by 1QwkSport2.5r
He can't find a source for methanol for a reasonable price.
He is not far from Chicago, lots of sprint tracks and dragstrips in that part of the country. Of course you can have it shipped.

Just over $3 a gallon if you buy a 55 gallon drum. Or have your club buy it as it would be too much for most of us.

http://www.motorsportsracingfuels.ne...?categoryID=48
Old 01-20-2015, 12:28 PM
  #1070  
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Here is a list of drag strips in Illinois.

http://www.motorsportsracingfuels.ne...?categoryID=48

And sprint cars not the NASCAR Sprint cars.

http://www.racingwhere.com/sprint-racing/tracks/all
Old 01-20-2015, 05:07 PM
  #1071  
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I doubt they will be rusty, I always ran Coolpower 30 and in my experience running coolpower you don't need to run after run oil, I was just worried about getting those saitos cleared out without tearing them down, I was hoping to avoid that, those motors are way to expensive to screw around with
Old 01-20-2015, 05:31 PM
  #1072  
NCRC
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Hi Brothers, I made a nice score today Saito 1.50 GK $150 and two Saito .50 engines $75 each, all NIB
I'm stoked!
Old 01-20-2015, 06:19 PM
  #1073  
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Originally Posted by Dealspeed
I doubt they will be rusty, I always ran Coolpower 30 and in my experience running coolpower you don't need to run after run oil, I was just worried about getting those saitos cleared out without tearing them down, I was hoping to avoid that, those motors are way to expensive to screw around with
The problem is synthetic oil doesn't protect against rust worth boogers and at 30% nitro, that leaves a lot of possibility of a lot of nitric acid residue inside as well as some methanol. Both will rust an engine like crazy. I am not going to start a bash fest about CP Fuel, but I think it's the worst stuff on earth. Too many rusted engine stories over the years. But as far as your engines are concerned, soak them in some fuel to loosen them up. If the bearings feel gritty, you are best advised to remove a backplate or something to get a look inside. If your bearings are rusty and you run the engine, you will wreck it. Just my opinion. It ain't worth much these days, so take it with a grain of salt and form your own conclusions.
Old 01-20-2015, 07:19 PM
  #1074  
Rv7garage
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Nice find, NCRC. Estate sale?
Old 01-20-2015, 07:33 PM
  #1075  
NCRC
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Originally Posted by Rv7garage
Nice find, NCRC. Estate sale?
Nope, just a guy i meet on RCGroups that was selling and he lives close to me.
He has some back issues and has has a ton of stuff. He gives me the buying option before listing it online
and gives me great deals. More examples NIB EZ Diabolo $200, TF P-47 ARF NIB $100, Kyosho FW 190 ARF NIB $100, Airsail Tomahawk kit $125
I've spent over a grand with him, the deals are too hard to pass up.


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