Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I won't waste any money on any more ceramics either. Well, the ceramics are supposed to be too hard so they're brittle and the stainless too soft, I guess it's crap shoot as to whose right.

1QwkSport2.5r

Like I said.. It's a Ford v. Chev argument. Neither is right and neither is wrong, eh?

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Pete,

My wife would leave me if you and I ever lived near each other. Just saying.....

Proptip

My Feedback: (3)

My Saito 180 runs like a Swiss watch. Probably 200+ flights on 15% nitro and 18% oil. Had to eliminate a source of minute air leaks on a brand new engine. But once you know how to eliminate the air leaks it will run perfectly. I worked over another 180 of a friend of mine and it runs just as well. It consistently idles at 1700 rpm with a #8 plug. You do have to run good fuel. Best to run upright or side mount. Will run inverted well also, but as was previously mentioned, tank position is important. The mods for air leaks are minor and only takes a few minutes and REALLY makes a difference!

Rudolph Hart

Try not to overthink it when you read other peoples recommendations,mine too.I use ngk stainless no dramas if i run afterrun oil.I think it's more important to handle and fit them properly,in the beginning i ham fisted a few.

Don't do it barryi had a real comedian living down the road from me and the ex handbrake moved in with him.Any doubts i had about him being my best mate were instantly removed,what a guy

roadhawgy

proptip,can you point me in the rignt direction to find air leaks? I have a Saito 150 that I cant get running right.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I seriously doubt that there are any air leaks on a 1.50, there is an O-ring between the carb and the intake pipe and the intake pipe is screwed to the engine with a gasket and fine threads. You see Teflon Plumbers tape on the intake jam nut but that's not for a leak but to reduce the chances of it coming loose. But it never came loose before I started using the Plumbers Tape.

AERORICH73

Well now, you really have a good fuel mix, and excellent storage procedure. Wish all modelers would find you method something they would pickup.

THANKS A BUNCH for the new message.

Cheers!!!

[email protected]

Proptip

My Feedback: (3)

Roadhawgy I had trouble with the intake pipe coming loose at the cylinder. I installed a metric wave washer between the pipe and the cylinder. It will not come loose again with that in place. A common preventive is to use BLUE thread locker on back plate screws. Try a large diameter silicone sleeve over the high speed needle to seal against any small air leaks (an old OS two stroke trick). These things made quite a difference on both new 180 Saitos. As you probably already know if you do not see at least a small oil vapor trail in flight behind a Saito you are too lean or you may not be running enough oil content. 18% seems to be right for my engine.


a least small oil vapor trail

Proptip

My Feedback: (3)

Roadhawgy Another thing I forgot to mention is that once you do these things do not be afraid to lean down the low speed needle to a point where it will consistently run smooth. Lean it down to where the engine starts to die and then richen slightly. Then adjust high end 2 to 300 rpm off of the most lean setting. If done properly it will transition from low idle to high RPM without any hesitation. As I said before you and many others probably already these things about Saitos or any other engine for that matter. I just threw these things out there anyway. Many long time flyers in our club seemed to have problems adjusting needles on their engines and still would not ask questions even after mentioning how nice my engines run. Maybe that's why many are flying electric these days. Lol.

1QwkSport2.5r

You guys that think air leaks IN at the needle valve are WRONG. Silicone tubing on the needle valve is a bandaid for a poorly fitting needle valve inside the needle holder. Most people use muffler pressure and that pressure is what forces fuel past the needle valve threads. If your needle valve doesn't leak fuel, it's not leaking air either. Also, a backplate leak is going to make a mess but should not make much of a difference with how the engine runs. At least it shouldn't unless there's a combination of other faults.

But I am happy to agree to disagree. I probably don't know what I'm talking about though, so don't take my word for it.

Proptip

My Feedback: (3)

Saito high speed needles thread OVER the top of the needle fitting, thus eliminating the POSSIBILITY of a small air leak! What is wrong with trying it? It is not going to hurt the engine! If it works, fine. If it does not work fine! Why be so negative about just a suggestion for something that might work for someone else?

1QwkSport2.5r

So why suggest to someone to put a silicone sleeve or tubing over the needle to prevent small air leaks? I'm not being negative, just trying to prevent someone from getting conflicting information. Doing this "trick" may create a whole other problem.
I have Carburetors where the needle threads over the holder as well as needles that thread inside the holder. They can both leak fuel and sometimes do but they will not leak air.

I still think the OP's problem is incorrect needle settings and has been all along.

Rudolph Hart

Guys find a hotel room and start slappin eachother

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The Saitos also have an O-ring in the end of the spraybar to minimize leaks. The Teflon Plumbers Tape will not let the jam nut come loose but will not harm the threads the next time you want to take it apart. The LocTite will leave it looking like a snaggle toothed shark.

a@l

I finally received the bearings. As it was difficult to draw steal washer set, dot on cam gear, cam gear shaft and crankshaft in the upper position.
Is there a way to check whether the valves are properly aligned with the crankshaft?

a@l

Once again thanks to all of you for opinions and suggestions. Engine is now idling at 2200 RPM without battery.

Rudolph Hart

Good news mate.