1QwkSport2.5r

The Katana 750 I had basically had a de-tuned GSXR engine. It was a fun bike to ride, but the lighter GSXR is faster. I like fast.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

I've ridden my friend's Ninja, and it really wants to go! Me, I like the more relaxed style of my Sportster. She's still fast, but much more chill if you know what I mean

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

That appears to be an 883R with the 13.5" rear shock, I installed 13.5" shocks on my 1200 C because of your model.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

We have a winner! Yep, you got it. Hopefully next year she will no longer be an 883- I really want to do a 1250 upgrade. Then it'll give Ninjas some competition

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I had that bike as my dream bike and as my computer wallpaper for a long time.

thumbnstick

My Feedback: (169)

All engines brands can run great when set right. Here are some hints from 50 yrs of experience. Lots of guys have brought me engines and said someone told them not to buy that brand, they run like crap. In 15 min I get most of them purring like a kitten. Try these steps, they work for both two and four strokes. First start your engine again and leave the glow heat on it. If it stays running at idle with heat on it, pinch the fuel line off (Hemostats or fingers). This is a sure fire way of checking the needle setting at that carb setting. When you pinch the fuel off, does it keep running? If it is rich, it will keep running and running then speed up a lot before it runs out of fuel... this is usually the case in what you described. Lean in the low speed until it barely increases some rpm when pinched off. Most engines like the low speed slightly rich for good transition to high speed. You now have the low speed set correctly enough for now. Now go to high speed and repeat. Too lean on either end will result in a quick die of the engine when pinched and poor transition. Go to low and remove the glow heat. Does it still stop? Yes? These guys are right, plugs and fuel go bad. If it does still die, start with the easiest fixes first, change the plug and try again. Still dying, change fuel, but make sure it is good fuel, at this point the % or type doesn't matter a whole lot to see if fuel is an issue. Never leave your fuel open or loose capped. It is alcohol based which absorbs moisture, which most engines don't like, especially 4 strokes. Moisture filled fuel will also cause some engines to overheat. Still not a good runner, replace the plug. Try again. Bad needle settings #1, bad fuel #2, bad plug #3. Those steps will fix 90% of engine problems. OK engine run still a problem? Several other things to check and involve fuel supply and engine. Some engines have o rings as seals on the needle. The rings get old, hard and leak air. Air leaks here will drive you nuts. Replace the o ring or rings if it looks flat on the outside of it. Some have needles on both low and high speed needles. It needs to be rounded on the outside of it when you inspect it. Also inspect the fuel tubing for leaks and cracks, especially at the carb nipple. A leaky seal at the carb body or intake tube past the carb can drive you nutsy also. This is unusual, but happens. The carb may also need cleaned. I use 15% Nitro, synthetic fuel on all engines to get them going. I never use castor oil. It tends gum up. That's another whole issue. KISS ..... keep it simple stupid. Works for me. Have fun... this is a HOBBY!

wjvail

My Feedback: (3)

Mine is a GSX-R 1000. It is a 6 speed gearbox but does 96 mph in first gear. At about 450# and about 180 crank horsepower, it pulls like a Kenworth in 6fth. I passed cars yesterday on two lane roads at 55 mph and in 6th by just rolling on the throttle. Just a little squirt and you're past and doing 80. You really don't have to ever shift. But when you do shift, it's a joy. Simple little 1/2", millisecond click with your toe and you're in another gear. It is speed governed at 300 kph. (I don't have the attachments to find that limit.)

Again, this bike does everything simply effortlessly.

I need to ride this device more. It's good for my sole.

Bill

1QwkSport2.5r

They are fast bikes, for sure. My Katana was really easy to ride and I was really glad it wouldn't do wheelies as easily as some of the lighter bikes. Full throttle launches were great since the front stayed planted.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thumb, I like to set the HS needle at peak and leave it while setting the LS needle. Since the HS needle seat is fixed that eliminates one variable. Getting the LS needle too lean renders the HS needle ineffective.

This is my dream bike now.

Rudolph Hart

Well...while we're waiting for the op's bearings to arrive thumb that should help him on the tuning side of things when he gets it going.

Wj they sound good with the yoshi pipe you are running too.We are all ex proddie and superbike riders from back in the day over here and try to get up in the hills once a week.A friend has an earlier gixxer than yours with 40mm radial flatslide carbys and runs handcut slicks,the cops never seem to notice and it;s a hoot to ride.Over here if you ar'nt too careful your in jail and your bike goes through the crusher @ anything over 200 klicks.We have an anti hoon law which is supposed to slow the young fellas down,some end up on the front page of the main newspaper.Since we are all in our fifties and sixties i sometimes wonder what they would say regarding geriatric hoons.

Dave that's even more agricultural looking than the run of the mill harley..is it the tractor factor coming into play? no seriously it's different and i like it.The sidestand has a lockdown button? looks really upright to me and the earls type forks work really well most times.Is the rear really rigid or are they hiding the rear shock under the seat or engine?

ps what does everybody think should be in a bikers anti hoon first aid kit??..band aids/duplicate licence/master handcuff key?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I hope he's not disappointed in the quality of the bearings he gets. We'll all get him fixed up though. I finally want to run my newly re-bearinged 1.00 today with a Zoar 15x6 and a 14x7 if time allows.

Pete, that Dirico is built on a Harley Softail chassis and has a Harley 110 cu. in. engine and a Baker 7 speed tranny, Not a mistype. The suspension unit is underneath.

AERORICH73

Ok, guess the new bearings are needed. I have some worries about the syn oil use in the two stroke engines. I do know that there is some caution about to much castor oil used in 4 stroke ones. I would surely investigate just what the maximum amount of castor oil can be used in the 4 stroke fuel, and use that amount at all times. It will be argued that some engine performance will be lost in the use of castor oil, but it comes down to just how long you want the engine to last after purchase. I would rather putt around my models for years than burn out an engine flying the model at ballistic speeds.

Check out the internet for a video from a Canadian who shows how to remove and replace the bearings. I did and the job took no time at all.

[email protected]
AMA410664

1QwkSport2.5r

I use full castor oil in my 4-cycle engine fuel. 5-10% nitro and 20% castor oil. It's sticky, yes. But I run my engines every season so they don't gum up. If it's gonna get stored for a long time, I'll use ATF or air tool oil and literally fill the inside of the engine, drain, and store. I use my engines very differently than most of you guys do, so I don't get the carbon buildup or sticky valves that others sometimes get.

Rudolph Hart

Hey! whoa up there buddy nobody i've ever talked to has accused harley of making fast bikes in standard trim so you'll have to get by on the chill factor which you see a lot nowadays.Young 20 somethin guys who won't acknowledge other riders and they all dress the same,it's a lifestyle harley are unbeaten world wide in selling from clothes to accessories etc etc.What we've been betting a substantial amount of money on...is the date that we finally run into a harley rider who has a full face helmet on...AND IT CAN'T BE SATIN BLACK!

ps no offence to the staunch harley guys out there who ride them because like my boss it's the only thing that matters,like my ducati.To all the posers tho it's a big two finger salute friends!

pps did i mention they don't handle?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Pete, my son rides a Yamaha R-1,he has two of them and according to him my Sporty handles very well. But, I run Progressive 13.5" 440s on the rear and Progressive Fork Springs in the front with 7w BelRay fork oil. I run the front spacers at their full 3" length. It's a firm but very well controlled ride. I prefer the firm ride like the early European bikes.

1Q, for the first two seasons I owned fourstrokes, 89, 90 and most of 1991 I ran Fox 15% fuel with 20% castor in my Enya .46 MKII, Saito .80 and Saito 1.50, they all three thrived on the stuff. Never came close to caking a valve. It did ugly up the mufflers until I learned about Teflon tape.

1QwkSport2.5r

I know.

I used to to be bothered with off topic posts, but I don't feel bad about my off topic post since this thread got to be more about motorcycles anyway. Bah.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I join in some of the Off Topic but try to keep some Saito content flowing as well.

a@l

Another question, if you are kind to answer.
I already ordered this bearings http://www.rcbearings.com/products/s...-bearings.html , now I'm in a dilemma whether they are the right choice. Would you order these bearings for your engine? Are they too cheap - poor quality?

What about this pair?
http://www.rcbearings.com/products/6...c-bearing.html
http://www.rcbearings.com/products/s...c-bearing.html

Why are Boca bearings more expensive?

1QwkSport2.5r

RCBearings sells the same quality bearings as Boca. Boca is often recommended because they're a site sponsor where RCBearings is not. I personally use RCBearings exclusively without any problems whatsoever. They even give a 5% discount just for being an RCU member. AvidRC.com sells many common bearings far cheaper than anyone else. Many for just a single USD.

An R6ZZ bearing at Avid costs $1.00USD. Same bearing at RCBearings is $4.97USD. Boca's price for an R6ZZ is $7.95USD.
http://www.avidrc.com/product/1/bear...-bearings.html
http://www.rcbearings.com/products/r...1-bearing.html
http://search.bocabearings.com/m/p/R...b&fromSku=true

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The BocaBearings I just got for my 1.00 were $11.88 and free shipping, that was good enough for me That was for the two bearing kit. Boca is a sponsor here so I use them exclusively.

a@l

Thank you. Ceramic bearings is probably not used by any of you.

1QwkSport2.5r

From a practicality standpoint, it's not worth it IMHO, especially in a run of the mill sport engine. But if you like to use them, more power to you.

cloudancer03

My Feedback: (22)

7Everybody has an opinon so heres mine.many times I used to offset the egine when inverted as fuel can flood or pool in the carb.but then there is the idle mixture.nitro is simple air and gas get it right the engine works.too rich it immediately dies as many are telling you.then theres the fuel itself is it old and the glow plug may be gone.check what glow plug you use long or short and make sure it has anidle bar.one other factor is the location of the carb to the tank.no more than a quarter inch below the center liine.you can use I think amc daniels igtion starter.it will keep the plug hot.i used one on my satio 150.but I would start with adjusting the carb and checking the plug in all honesty and I am dating my myselfalot of pilots hate nitro inverts and when needed do a 45 offset.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I have a set of ceramic bearings in a Fox .50 that is converted to Diesel operation. It becomes a , yea, they're in there, now what. As for stainless, it has been said on here many times that they are too soft and have no longevity. The standard hard chrome BocaBearings are fairly cheap and last a long time.

1QwkSport2.5r

The stainless bearings vs. chrome steel bearings is a ford vs. Chevy argument AFAIC. I run my engines far faster than most and have had to replace factory installed chrome steel bearings and not any of the stainless ones I've installed. Maybe it's coincidence, maybe not. I don't buy into the ceramic bearing bit. I'm a young old-fashioned kind of guy with a lot of this stuff.