Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

My limited edition O.S. 46LA

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

I think the reason for the fox plug over the OS F plug was the fox plug was in production before the OS F plug came out. I remember most four strokes at the time ran best on the fox plug. Then OS designed the F plug with the extended lip on it. This was due to most four strokes mounted inverted and at idle fuel could puddle up killing regular plugs. If your FS engine is mounted at an angle, sideways or vertically then the OS F or Fox plug isn't needed.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

Deal the blue looks so much better lol

the pope

yeh who wants a pink engine ?

knuckleball

Well done! Just add a new prop nut & washer for a final touch.

1QwkSport2.5r

Not sure if you were implying it or not, but the Fox Miracle plug has the protruded nose on it like the OS F plug.

Ive used the Miracle plug in the past - I have a half dozen of them or so. They didn't work as well for me as they do for others, but I was using low nitro with them. Since they are on the cooler side of the hot heat range, they probably do better with more nitro in the engines that like it.

Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

Pink? Color blind are we? That's red very red

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

Yeah I just meant to say the fox plug was out first before the OS well 90% sure on that. At the time the fox plugs were hard to find as they never really advertised much and when OS came out with there plug tower showed it of a lot.

Dealspeed yeah it looks red to me, some people like pink though, me I just like blue and hopefully soon I will have two Gold engines... trying to work some connections to get two of them.

Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

I really like the way it turned out, it reminds me of late 70's early 80's honda dirt bikes, there motocross bikes had red painted air cooled 2 stroke motors, 125cc 250cc and I think a 480cc

controlliner

What paint did you use? is it fuel proof?

Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

its a high temp chemical proof paint made by PPG, I am a painter at Triumph, I paint parts for the Boeing 737 and 777.
pretty much all paints used in Aerospace have to meet rigorous requirements, I end up with leftovers at the end of day that go unused, so I put it too use when I can instead of wasting it.

Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

Oops double post

controlliner

Polyurethane? I paint aircraft in the RCAF.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

painting any engine will keep more heat in the engine so remember that if you do an engine. one like the LA in stock form shouldnt be a problem. painting a 46AX and above isn't advised unless you're in a cold area with cold air all the time.

Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

No I would never paint a AX series motor, I only painted this one because the blue paint was in bad shape

Controlling I will have to check

1QwkSport2.5r

Anodizing is the better way to do it IMO. Paint is nice, until you take a tool to it to install it or run it.

Im going to strip the blue paint off my 25LA when I modify it and just leave it bare. Gonna see just how much abuse one can take.

Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

I tried to strip the paint off, but even after soaking it in acetone an entire work day wasn't enough to get it all off, I scrubbed the crap out of it with a wire brush and scotch Brite and still couldn't get it out of the crevices and fins.
I also plan on giving this motor a thrashing, it means very little to me

spaceworm

Looks good, but you mentioned 300 degrees F withstand for the paint, and glow engines under some operating conditions will exceed 300 degrees F, and most gasoline engines will exceed that under normal conditions. Or, will this just be a shelf queen? Good luck.

1QwkSport2.5r

I believe the antifreeze crockpot trick removes paint and anodizing which is the route I'm going to try first. If that doesn't work, I may try DOT3 brake fluid which I KNOW eats paint. If those fail, then it's a bath in MEK. MEK is nasty nasty stuff - use that stuff outdoors only and wear gloves/goggles.

If I ruin the LA25 doing the boost port mod, I'll put my treated FSR .25 P/L into it which should in and of itself equal or better what I'm gonna do to the ABN liner. Now I just wish I had the ability to tap a head to use a turbo plug.

1QwkSport2.5r

The crankcase rarely exceeds 300F - the cylinder head is by far the hottest part and what is most likely to face or crack/peel the paint. However if the fuel mixture is set rich enough and cooling baffles and cowling is done properly, the engine shouldn't see temps much over 300-315F. Shouldn't being the operative word.

Dealspeed

My Feedback: (17)

I actually use MEK on a daily basis, but I hate using the stuff, nastier then acetone

1QwkSport2.5r

Yes, it's nasty stuff alright. There's nastier stuff that will strip paint also.

airraptor

My Feedback: (66)

That LA should run the same as other 25s with porting all the same. and some LA's are way lighter than a bearing engine...

1QwkSport2.5r

My objective is to make mine run faster than other .25s. Really I'm throwing the entire book at it which will test the limits of what can be done before it grenades itself. One doesn't know how far is too far without going there, so I'm going there. Add boost port, raise timing, mod the piston, bore crank, raise timing, alter crankweb, etc. Pretty much what I've been doing to my Italian truck engines, though with not as radical exhaust timing. I don't have much faith in OS, so I have my doubts it'll handle what the Italian engines can...

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

The LA's handle Diesel conversion very well, they'll handle anything you throw at them.