After run oil
04-28-2018, 03:20 PM
#27
This is the honest truth- I've only bought one little bottle of after run oil and I only used it several times. Other than that, I don't use it. I did have some bearings rust on me a few years ago, but that was on a 2 stroke that I bought and was used heavily with CoolPower. It's the only engine I have that hasn't always run Omega 15%.
04-28-2018, 04:13 PM
#28
04-28-2018, 04:14 PM
#29
This is the honest truth- I've only bought one little bottle of after run oil and I only used it several times. Other than that, I don't use it. I did have some bearings rust on me a few years ago, but that was on a 2 stroke that I bought and was used heavily with CoolPower. It's the only engine I have that hasn't always run Omega 15%.
04-29-2018, 04:26 AM
#32
04-29-2018, 08:34 AM
#33
My Feedback: (1)
Castor oil is a wonderful thing!
Indeed it is.
It's at it's most wonderfulness when you don't use any
For some, that may seem to be the case.
Jim
04-29-2018, 11:44 AM
#34
I use a lot of castor. My engines run very well on it - most run better than full synthetic or blended oil fuels. I have several Novarossi engines - Novarossi specs castor oil specifically for their engines almost exclusively. The quality of Novarossi is leaps
and bounds above much of what is used these days from Asia, so I trust their instruction. Nobody will convince me otherwise. Synthetic oil in lapped engines? - will never happen to one of my engines. Ever.
and bounds above much of what is used these days from Asia, so I trust their instruction. Nobody will convince me otherwise. Synthetic oil in lapped engines? - will never happen to one of my engines. Ever.
04-29-2018, 12:29 PM
#36
The trick with castor is simply using the right proportions for the application. Actually castor works very well where extreme pressure sliding action takes place. Cam to lifter and gear to gear are just those type places Castor also wets metal very well and is perfect for chrome bores. For years I worked on making my own fuel. The combination that works well for me (compared to some of the other fellows engines I have rebuilt)
For medium to large Saito singles 12% synthetic 2% castor 10% to 15% nitromethane. Balance is methanol. Absolutely no gumming, bearings slick and smooth. I have some very old Saitos that have held up remarkably with that brew. Four stroke, flat tappet engines use different oils from their 2 stroke cousins for good reasons. I just rebuilt a Saito FA 120S for a friend. He liked brag about using only straight synthetic. He got a new cam after only 10 years. Needed lifters too.
For medium to large Saito singles 12% synthetic 2% castor 10% to 15% nitromethane. Balance is methanol. Absolutely no gumming, bearings slick and smooth. I have some very old Saitos that have held up remarkably with that brew. Four stroke, flat tappet engines use different oils from their 2 stroke cousins for good reasons. I just rebuilt a Saito FA 120S for a friend. He liked brag about using only straight synthetic. He got a new cam after only 10 years. Needed lifters too.
04-29-2018, 02:00 PM
#39
Not the name I’d have expected from you, G. 
. Names aside, this place doesn’t have the same moderation constraints that the other outfit has. Should make for a much better conversation.
. Names aside, this place doesn’t have the same moderation constraints that the other outfit has. Should make for a much better conversation.
05-01-2018, 07:43 PM
#40
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A dissertation on the merits of lubricants commonly utilised in model engine fuels.
AdriansModelAeroEngines.com :: Model Engine Lubricants
AdriansModelAeroEngines.com :: Model Engine Lubricants
05-02-2018, 05:51 AM
#41
I have read that article at some time in the past. Very good information well wrth reading again. I would add to that The article presents an "either/or" scenario:
The choice need not be an either/or decision. One "drawback" mentioned regarding castor is varnish , carbon related. That trait can be virtually eliminated by using a blend of the two oil types. It does not require a large percentage of castor in the oil mix to benefit from the boundary laer, extreme pressure and excellent wetting qualities of castor oil. With the 14% oil content fuel I have run from 8% synth/6% castor to as low as 12%synthetic/2% castor. Neither has presented any gumming or varnishing problems. This fuel is only used on mid to large size four stroke engines, for the benefit of the valve actuation components. The smaller engines get more oil and the additional oil is castor.
The choice need not be an either/or decision. One "drawback" mentioned regarding castor is varnish , carbon related. That trait can be virtually eliminated by using a blend of the two oil types. It does not require a large percentage of castor in the oil mix to benefit from the boundary laer, extreme pressure and excellent wetting qualities of castor oil. With the 14% oil content fuel I have run from 8% synth/6% castor to as low as 12%synthetic/2% castor. Neither has presented any gumming or varnishing problems. This fuel is only used on mid to large size four stroke engines, for the benefit of the valve actuation components. The smaller engines get more oil and the additional oil is castor.
05-02-2018, 08:32 AM
#42
My Feedback: (1)
I tell you one thing, if you use a 4% blend of Castor (that comes blended in many fuels today) you got to burn a lot of fuel before you get to such a point that you have to take your engine apart to remove that varnish, most likely you will have to replace the bearings long before,
with that, (in 2017) at the 7 gallon mark I replaced the bearings in my OS 61 FX (I didn't use much after run oil) the engine was bought new in 004, well when I took it apart it had Carbon on the piston top, but the liner and sides of the piston were/are in very-very good shape, no scrapes, no scores, no varnish, she was never run lean, I use 2 and 4% Castor, LOL I guess I know how to tune LOL
Jim
with that, (in 2017) at the 7 gallon mark I replaced the bearings in my OS 61 FX (I didn't use much after run oil) the engine was bought new in 004, well when I took it apart it had Carbon on the piston top, but the liner and sides of the piston were/are in very-very good shape, no scrapes, no scores, no varnish, she was never run lean, I use 2 and 4% Castor, LOL I guess I know how to tune LOL
Jim
Last edited by the Wasp; 05-02-2018 at 08:44 AM.
05-04-2018, 11:05 PM
#44
I use 20% castor and if I get hands on a cheap canister of synth fuel I mix it with my castor fuel 1:1 and burn it in a model that stays clean from exhaust oil to prevent damage from aggressive synth oil which dissolves almost every adhesives and paint.
The rest is written in this article: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/o-s-...endations.html
The rest is written in this article: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/o-s-...endations.html
05-05-2018, 03:58 AM
#46
SALES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Most I've observed don't use anything at all.
Some don't even empty the tank
Some will run the engine on the ground or in the air till it quits
Some will connect a glo driver and spin the engine until it no longer tries to fire
Few will bother with any kind of after run oil of which there are as many concoctions as one could dream of.
My conclusion is its better to use something than nothing so what ever your personal preference is go for it..
If you're flying often enough this is probably more than sufficient.
Personally I do not like to put anything inside my motors that isn’t designed to run in them so I use Klotz 100% pure synthetic Techniplate. This also works with motors that have petroleum sensitive parts like the YS
Long term storage other than the YS motors I will use an outboard fogging oil.
Nice thing about having the Klotz on hand is in a pinch I can up the oil content in a jug of fuel if needed.
Yes I also have pure been oil on hand (castor) if the need arises.
Dennis
05-05-2018, 11:41 AM
#47
SALES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Most I've observed don't use anything at all.
Some don't even empty the tank
Some will run the engine on the ground or in the air till it quits
Some will connect a glo driver and spin the engine until it no longer tries to fire
Few will bother with any kind of after run oil of which there are as many concoctions as one could dream of.
My conclusion is its better to use something than nothing so what ever your personal preference is go for it..
If you're flying often enough this is probably more than sufficient.
Personally I do not like to put anything inside my motors that isn’t designed to run in them so I use Klotz 100% pure synthetic Techniplate. This also works with motors that have petroleum sensitive parts like the YS
Long term storage other than the YS motors I will use an outboard fogging oil.
Nice thing about having the Klotz on hand is in a pinch I can up the oil content in a jug of fuel if needed.
Yes I also have pure been oil on hand (castor) if the need arises.
Dennis
Most I've observed don't use anything at all.
Some don't even empty the tank
Some will run the engine on the ground or in the air till it quits
Some will connect a glo driver and spin the engine until it no longer tries to fire
Few will bother with any kind of after run oil of which there are as many concoctions as one could dream of.
My conclusion is its better to use something than nothing so what ever your personal preference is go for it..
If you're flying often enough this is probably more than sufficient.
Personally I do not like to put anything inside my motors that isn’t designed to run in them so I use Klotz 100% pure synthetic Techniplate. This also works with motors that have petroleum sensitive parts like the YS
Long term storage other than the YS motors I will use an outboard fogging oil.
Nice thing about having the Klotz on hand is in a pinch I can up the oil content in a jug of fuel if needed.
Yes I also have pure been oil on hand (castor) if the need arises.
Dennis
05-05-2018, 06:23 PM
#49
I believe he was alluding to the caution comment regarding the use of Klotz as an after run or storage oil. That caution has been on many pre-mix synthetic oils for years.
