p51delta

Hi Fellows,
I have a new Saito 100 and would like to know what would be the best prop for me. I have a Decathlon (high or shoulder wing model) 78" wingspan and run 15% nitro fuel. I just want to fly scale and do a little aerobatics. We ran it yesterday with a 15x6 APC and only got 8500 on the ground. I know the 3D flyers go with props that have max. diameter and min. pitch. Does a scale flyer need less diameter and more pitch?
Thanks,
Mike

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Most everyone uses a 14-8 for a sport prop on the 100.

p51delta

Something I forgot to ask in my previous posting!!!!! Yesterday while flying the Decathlon with the Saito 100. Transition from low throttle to high was good. At full throttle in the air it seemed to stutter a lot for some reason though. (maybe too much prop, we had a 15x6 APC on it with 8500 rpm) The low speed needle doesn't affect smooth running at full throttle does it?
On our last flight something strange happened. I came in for a low approach on almost idle. When I hit the gas to go around the motor goes pow, so I cut the gas immediately and land on the last inch of grass before the plowed field starts. When we get to the plane we see that the muffler which is attached to motor with stock header pipe with the 15° bend has just snapped off. The break in the pipe was almost right at the motor. A few threads of the pipe and the nut were still attached to the motor. I had this happen on my YS 110 3 times but that was due to the long length of my self welded stiff header pipe. Anyone else have problems with mufflers breaking off due to vibrations?

SigMan

My Feedback: (21)

sounds like your too rich, engines's getting to hot, backfired and blew your muff apart.

SigMan

My Feedback: (21)

Merry CHRISTmas to all Club SAITO members and a Happy New Year !

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

So since saito has gone gas in a big way .. like the add says.
is there anyone with some inside info on there next gas engine?
like maybe a 4.4 twin gas

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Sigman- It sounds like your low speed is set too lean since it is when you gave it a lot of throttle for the go around. If you hit the throttle fast, that would do it.

Tbone4life

I have a Saito 100 on an Ultra Stick with a K-Series MAS 14X8 and it will climb vertical forever.

Tbone4life

I would wanna say its to rich, I was having same problem and my buddy out at the air feild suggested that I lean the low speed and it cured the dying when I suddenly hit the throttle from idle.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

It sounds like it backfired.

mred33

It sounds like you were running lean and when you hit the gas, it backfired on you. I have no idea why the header pipe would break off like that though. I had a 100 run like that one time and I brought in down and put a couple clicks richer on it and it ran fine. Mine didn't backfire that time though. I had one backfire on the ground from running lean one time and it destroyed the spinner (plastic spinner) and threw the prop and nut about 100 feet. Scared the heck out of me. Never had one backfire running rich.
Ed

mred33

tbone4life;
Do you have the stock covering job on your Ultra Stick???? I have one and am not able to see if worth a hoot. I am in the process of recovering it so I can see it. I keep getting messed up trying to tell the top from the bottom while flying it. I was just wondering if it was me or other people were having a hard time seeing it.
Ed []

Terry 5

My Feedback: (3)

I have the satio 220 and have put better than 3 gals. through it. I'm getting 8500 peak with standard zinger 20-6, but I have had problems keeping a good idle with out an onboard glow. Running powermaster 30% Heli. I have tried to lean the low end, but then I get a bad cackle out of her when I rev up. On one instance the prop hit the spinner and dented it. I think this engine has great power to unleash from the thrust reading I acheived of 21.3 lbs. at full power as per my digital fish scale. If only I can keep it running below 2800 rpm.

Any help out there?
Thanks

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

I received some info from Horizon saying that the SAI125A01A has improved casting around the exhaust ports in
the cylinder head, which strengthens the area.

RC Specialties

rajul,

There have been many 1.25's that mufflers have come loose and ruined the threads. What they are doing doesn't work. I am not sure how recasting in itself could make it stronger. I would be interested in learning what they are doing. Can you point me to the info?

Jim

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Just a note- mine is one of the earlier 1.25s and I've not noticed any problems. Mine has backfired twice when under the first 10 tanks of fuel. Each time was a very gentle backfire. I almost didn't notice it the first time.

No problems with the exhaust manifold or muffler yet. It stayed tightened after starting to come loose once while breaking in on the bench.

rexracer

Any hints for getting bearings in and out of a 45 MK2? I'm mostly worried about getting them out. Lot's of rust. Looks like the front bearing comes right out the front. Bake at 250 and tap with a socket from the inside? Same with the rear bearing but go through the nose where the front one was? Took a soak in penetrating oil to get the crank out, but it looks like it cleaned up fine. I do know better than to push on the inside race on the new bearings. I expect them to drop right in using the crank to keep 'em square once the case is cleaned up. Got the case soaking untill the new bearings arrive. Sometimes I wish this thread had a table of contents so I could find all the info I know is here

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

I have never done bearings in a 4stroke before but i am sure they are pretty much the same as a 2stroke.
This is the way i do it.
removing the bearings.
break it down to the case bearings and crank.
I use a torch off a small propane bottle to heat up the crank case around the main bearing, heating it evenly and as soon as it starts to smoke i wack the back of the case down sqaure onto a piece of wood. I use a piece of a 2x6.
if there is alot of rust you will need heat and lots of repeated force down on the wood. repeat the force down on the wood many times before you even look to see if it has moved.
some times it takes a good wack depends on the condition of the bearing.
most of the time the main bearing is on the crank still.
i cool the crank down before i heat up the bearing with the torch and wack the crank threads down on the wood a few times and it falls off.
front bearing takes just a little heat and it pops out almost by looking at it
assembly
The bearing in these engines are interfearence fit, which means that some parts need to be cold and others need to be heated.
I leave the bearings in there oem bags and bring them down to about -5c because thats what my freezer is set at .
I also have the crank in there to.
On a clean cooking sheet the crank case goes in at what the toaster overn says is 375f.
when the parts are ready i fit the front bearing in and use a crank stop tool that fits the front bearing outer ring to confirm that the bearing fell home.
I heat up the crank again and when its ready i pop the main in with my finger.
this one can take some practice.... to get your finger out before it burns and been able to leave the main home
it almost always falls in right to home the first time as long as you do not take more then a few seconds. like about 5 seconds is starting to be to long.
I use the other end of the tool to confirm the main is home.
I pop the crank back into the oven for maybe about 1 minite, I carefully let the crank slide home. I then pop the engine into freezer to get the heat out of the bearings as fast as possible.
since the bearing end up with heat in them they are very easy to damage. if you let the crank fall to far into place you will damage the new rear bearing. I also do not turn the crank until i am sure the bearings are cooled down.
you will know youy have done a good job when you turn the crank and and feel absolutly nothing. no tiny clicks, and if you don"t, not to worry. becasue if you can get 20 to 30 gallons engine thats pulling 16000 on a bad bearing install before it gets to bad and needs to replaced i am sure u will get a 1 or 2 seasons out of it.
this whole deal takes about 30 minites for the bearings and about and hour on a 2 stroke for the whole job.
dont for get to use something like 3in1 oil when assembling the parts after the bearings and crank are in.
everone has there different way of doing bearings, this way works the best for me and can be very fast as long as you do not jump the gun on the temp of the parts.

p51delta

Back to my Saito 100 manifold pipe breaking and throwing the muffler:

The low speed needle is still at factory setting. (should be very rich) It did backfire once on the ground before we started flying because I guess I turned the high speed needle to lean. Funny thing about it though , I only turned the needle about 1 or 2 clicks, then BAM! and the engine was silent. It was sort of a banging metal sound. I thought for sure it just threw a piston rod. The prop was loose but the engine fired right up again. On the low pass where I nailed the gas and blew the muffler it did sound like it backfired. On the ground and in the air the transition from low to high was fine(except for the muffler incident) that's why we didn't touch the low speed needle.

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

you should never run a glow engine up to full power unless you have confirmed on the ground that you can make the engine slobbering rich with the needle before you tune it for a full power pull.
tuneing for max power should be done with the nose straight up and follow what the book says for the main needle.

kaastrup

Hi there and merry christmas to all of you frim Denmark...

I got my myself a Webra regulator, and was planning on using it on my Saito 150, in a CMP Giles 202 70".

The regulator uses crankcase pressure to the tank, and muffler pressure to the regulator.

And now my question.

The crankcase nibble is normally going out to air, and excess oil is going that way. When it has to go to the tank, isen't it building up oil percentage in the fuel mix ?

And has anyone had experiense with this regulator, I can see that Rajul wrote some a long time ago...

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

When using the Saito 150 crankcase vent for pressure. there needs to be a "tee" in the crankcase vent line. One side goes to the tank through a check valve. One side is open to the atmosphere and naturally the third side is connected to the engine crankcase breather.

wildstar

Merry christmas from FRANCE. I'm new in Saito club: I've just got a 125 gold edition to use with a Direct Connection Hawker Sea Fury. A very good friend just got a full size one!!!. I would like to use a four blades propeller. Wich one? Thank's for answer

nitrobeast

Merry Christmas to all.
What should i use to clean the castor off my exhaust?

captinjohn

acetone...will clean that exhaust