w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Four strokes are not critical about the exhaust like a two stroke is.

Your exhaust can be any length and it matters little about a muffler or not if noise is not a problem.

Krener

Thanks w8ye.

What about heat??
Is there a recommended distance to keep the flexible tubing away from the fuse/covering??

Thanks again.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

It cannot be touching

blw

My Feedback: (3)

The flex pipe itself is the muffler. It does a pretty good job. 4 strokes make surprisingly little more noise with just straight pipes or the manifold pipe.

mustang flyer

My Feedback: (4)

Hello.
I am having a problem keeping the header pipe that threads into the head. even with a locknut it still keeps comming loose. I have used blue and red lock tite and still comes loose. can any one help me . Thank you .

scratchonly

Don't bottom the pipe in the head and use plumbers teflon tape. Check to see if the pipe wiggles in the head before tightening the nut; you may have ruined the threads; ask me how I know!

isaacslaw

My Feedback: (4)

Gentlemen:

I have just attempted running in my new 82A. I had some issues. I followed the instructions pretty well and decided to run two times of 5 minutes each at the break-in mixture of 2 1/2 turns out on the HS needle. I was initially concerned because after rotating the prop 3 times, the engine lost all compression. I tightened the glow plug, but same thing no compression. I went ahead and gave it a few flips with the start stick 3rd flip it fired, ran a bit rough and increased rpm. I held it between 3200 rpm and 3800 rpm for about 2 minutes. It was going up and down a lot, but the engines I've broken in before they did that too on the first tank. Plenty of smoke in the exhaust and some fuel shooting out of the carburator.

THats when all hell broke loose. The engine started increasing in rpms. Then the throttle lever completely came off and it went to something near full throttle. I just held the plane and was thinking about the best way to stop the engine when it died on its own. The engine was hot, but I could put my hand on it for a quick second without burning it. The problem with the throttle lever was that it melted. I can not understand this at all. I checked before hand and it was fine, tight, and turning smoothly I don't even know if I can use the throttle lever now It seemed to be held on with a glue of some type and a set screw.

Anyone have ideas on this?

Prop was APC 14X4 wide, no spinner. Fuel was Wildcat 2&4 stroke 15%nitro, 18%synthetic.
Ambient temperature was about 85 deg. F and I'm at 500 ASL, humidity 0, engine mounted on airframe.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You will need to buy a new throttle lever.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...rodID=SAI5088B

I doubt if you hurt the engine.

isaacslaw

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks W8YE feels better knowing the engine is alright. I am concerned, however about the heat that was high enough to melt the plastic and that it apparently came somehow from the carburator. The plastic piece that the carb it bolted to also melted around the carb, but the back plate does not seem affected at all. Also, my throttle round thingy that the throttle lever was mounted to also seems a bit rough probably order one of those too.
compression is now strong.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The rough device that is still attached to your carburetor is what is left of the throttle arm. There is a set screw that should be holding it on.

You had a fire around the throttle arm that melted the plastic. The engine may have backfired or the carburetor had a lot of fuel around it some way or another.

isaacslaw

My Feedback: (4)

Great day in the morning! I hadn't even thought of a fire of course that's it. I do remember excess fuel around the carb (cause I choked it) and am now remembering smoke around the carb which I thought was just the exhuast. That has never happened to me before. Thanks again, W8YE I was a bit nervous about the engine getting too hot and that does explain the mysterious hot carburator

TimC

isaacslaw, it sounds like the tank was over-filled, overflowing into the muffler. The engine then started and ran backward for a bit.

isaacslaw

My Feedback: (4)

Yes a bit embarrassing now I think about it. I have a cline regulator that I plan on installing because the tank is pretty far back and the engine is inverted with the tank a bit higher than the carb. Anyway, I thought I would run in the engine first without the regulator as it affects the needle settings etc and I didn't want to add any issues with running it in. SO I plumbed the tank with the regulator in mind, having a T-line for filling into the carburator line. Later, I will add a t line to the vent as well. When I filled the tank I first noticed that the carb was completely full of fuel up to the top of the velocity stack. I swore a bit for forgetting something like pinching off the carb line turned back around and the fuel was gone. I thought maybe it went down into the carburator. Checked for hydrolock, no lock, so choked it more to make sure fuel was flowing it was and seemed good. One more hydrolock check and good to go. I used a chicken stick and it started really rough, but smoothed out must have been the backfire igniting my carb.

Michaelh

My Feedback: (4)

Isaac just a thought , but is there any way you could put the engine on a stand and run it in? Also if this is on that Extra I think it is make something to block airflow up at the canopy if not already.

RCWI

I have a 125 and am running a 16x4 on a H9 frenzy.. I am getting 9,800 with only 1/2 gal through it, so its still really new. What RPMS should i get on the ground? Also have a 17x4 not tried it yet..

rexracer

I would say you're pushing it at 9800. For 3D it's probably ok, but I wouldn't want to let it go any higher when it unloads, you don't want to let it spin much over 10 grand. I would try the 17x4, it would be more safe.

mike109

G'day Saito lovers.

I have a Hanger 9 Sopwith Camel. It is yet to fly and currently has a new Saito 82 in it but I am considering pulling it out and putting a Saito 90R3 in it. I am not interested in vertical performance, just nice scale noises and docile flight. I have seen a video of one and it seems to be quite a reasonable thing to do but another thread has a number of comments saying the little three cylinder is simply not powerful enough.

What prop would the 90R3 swing? And what do people think of this idea. If I do this, I am thinking of putting the 82 into a H9 Piper Pawnee.

mike109

Sorry - and I forgot to ask - what is the firing arrangement for the Saito three cylinder radials? Do all the cylinders fire on one revolution and then all exhaust on the next or is there some sort of mixed arrangement? Thanks.

sodbuster 1

Any reports on the new 1.15 yet?
Has anybody received theirs? Run it?

Mine should be here any day now. Project plane is a CG Super Decathlon

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Firing order for three cylinder radial

1-3-2

AJsToyz

How do you like the Frenzy ?? I purchased one and have not had a chance to put it together yet.

Andy

GaGeeBees

My Feedback: (23)

Here's a link to an article by someone who installed the Saito radial in th H9 Sopwith Camel. Sounds like a great combination. I've got one of these little jewels still in the box waiting for the right airplane to come along.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Articles...ArticleID=1692

Good luck!

p.s. Recommended props range from 12x7 to 14x6

rexracer

Looks awsome, and seems to fly at least scale from the video. Doesn't look like power is a problem. I say go for it, and post pictures/vids!

mike109

I think I may just get one. If I do, I will report here. Thanks. Mike

On The Patch!

Hello everyone,

I am currently running about the 10th tank through my Saito 1.20 GK, and I am getting a lot of black stuff going back into my tank.
Anyone got an idea whats the cause of that? Any help would be much appreciated!

Johan