Club FOX!
#5026
It has finally stopped raining. Good idea to get out and make some noise. I have one of those to try out too from a package deal that I got somewhere. Scared up a Fox .25 too with that same style carb. I have not run either one yet. Can't imagine what plane to use, I have so many other choices.
Last edited by aspeed; 05-15-2018 at 06:37 AM.
#5027
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Have an idea to try on everyone here. Has anyone hard mounted a Perry pump to the rear cover on the Eagle IV 60? That method was used on other makes and wondered if someone has done that mod yet.
Would need to remove the cast port boss on the cover, but concerned with internal clearance for any fasteners.
Would need to remove the cast port boss on the cover, but concerned with internal clearance for any fasteners.
#5028
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kerrville,
TX
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Have an idea to try on everyone here. Has anyone hard mounted a Perry pump to the rear cover on the Eagle IV 60? That method was used on other makes and wondered if someone has done that mod yet.
Would need to remove the cast port boss on the cover, but concerned with internal clearance for any fasteners.
Would need to remove the cast port boss on the cover, but concerned with internal clearance for any fasteners.
CR
#5032
I suppose it could be done but no need with the p-30 pump. The p-30 perry pump works off of crankcase pressure to actuate it and deliver fuel to the carb. Some engines need a different carb to handle the added pressure and the pump can be located anywhere within reason. There were backplate pumps inset into special backplates I own a couple of new ones but have never owned the engines they were made for. I have a couple of Duct Fan engines made with the correct carb already mounted. I have always had good luck with the Fox Eagles and never saw much need for a pump with them but each project is different. I also have some YS engines with integral pump/carbs and the advantages become apparent after a few flights. The YS's never miss a beat no matter what altitude, attitude or gyrations you put it thru. .Couple on eBay now including two of the backplate pumps https://www.ebay.com/itm/PERRY-LOT-F...AAAOSwsldbC2KK
Last edited by gmeyers; 05-30-2018 at 11:59 AM.
#5033
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Been a while since I posted this, but the reasoning behind this new inquiry is to try and make the original setup more accessible for tweaking. I have the -30 pump buried in the F-15 tank compartment and that tank is moved aft near the CofG. The G/P version was always nose heavy, the reason the battery and Rx are also in the tail.
Perry has a setup for normal carbs using the -30 here:
Pump%20and%20Bypass%20System.pdf
#5035
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Kerrville,
TX
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I had one of the first Conley 1.20s when Gary Conley brought them out. It had no pump; instead the carb was mounted on a "drop" manifold ala the Saitos. It ran well but the timing belt would jump a tooth now and then. It didn't have a spring loaded belt tensioner. This necessitated pulling the engine in order to retime the cams. Got tired of that and replaced it with the Saito 1.50. I sold it to a German collector some years later for a bunch of bucks.
Abitar bought the rights from Conley. I was sorry they didn't make a go of it.
BTW, the VP-20 pumps were for 2-strokes originally. I had one on a inverted ST .60, in a Sig Kommander back in the late 1970's.
CR
Abitar bought the rights from Conley. I was sorry they didn't make a go of it.
BTW, the VP-20 pumps were for 2-strokes originally. I had one on a inverted ST .60, in a Sig Kommander back in the late 1970's.
CR
#5036
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Colonial Beach, VA
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My timing belt never jumped though.
Same here, this was mine for years
A lot of guys made a mistake with this engine and tried to run a 15x8 on them, they were timed to turn a 14x6 at 12,000 plus rpm. 10% fuel max.
#5037
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Lincoln,
NE
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I have a pulse type mounted on an OS 160. It works fine. It's on a 2 meter plane with a center tank. The pump is mounted on the engine. I was afraid to drill a hole in my new OS. Since then I've had engines with pressure type pumps. That's the way I would go if I had known what I know now.
#5038
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Was able to use a mill to fit the pump and will have some pics later. Now only question is if anyone knows the starting point for the hex on the VP-30. Instructions only state threaded in limit.
Difference this time is I now have the test stand so should be much easier to set up.
Difference this time is I now have the test stand so should be much easier to set up.
#5040
I have some questions regarding a couple of Fox compact 40 engines. I purchased three of them over time from different sellers in various conditions. 1 ABC version and 2 lapped iron piston. I will list the questions separately to avoid confusion:
1. The head buttons on the lapped iron version are totally flat, only a very tiny chamber around the glowplug. Can this head button run with higher nitro, like 15%? Or is it limited to 5% nitro?
2. The head button on the ABC version has a bigger bowl, but still a large squish band. How much nitro can I run on this version?
3. Crankshaft collet for regular version, is that re-usable after being removed? I imagine those are no longer available to purchase new.
4. Crankshaft collet for built-in spinner version, is that re-usable after being removed?
Thanks. I am trying to upload pictures but have not figured it out yet. Everytime I learn how to do it, RCU changes the process.
1. The head buttons on the lapped iron version are totally flat, only a very tiny chamber around the glowplug. Can this head button run with higher nitro, like 15%? Or is it limited to 5% nitro?
2. The head button on the ABC version has a bigger bowl, but still a large squish band. How much nitro can I run on this version?
3. Crankshaft collet for regular version, is that re-usable after being removed? I imagine those are no longer available to purchase new.
4. Crankshaft collet for built-in spinner version, is that re-usable after being removed?
Thanks. I am trying to upload pictures but have not figured it out yet. Everytime I learn how to do it, RCU changes the process.
Last edited by hsukaria; 06-03-2018 at 12:33 PM.
#5041
1. The head button with the tiny chamber is intended for FAI fuel or fuel with little to no nitromethane in it. 5% nitro may be the maximum that you can use with it.
2. The large combustion chamber would let you run 10% to 15% nitromethane, maybe more.
3. yes the crankshaft splines and prop driver are reusable.
4. Yes the tapered collet on the crankshaft is reusable. Sometimes it slips back too far and you need to move it forward a little to clear the front bearing and crankcase nose.
MECOA has bought up all of the Fox stuff from the factory. So you may be able to get parts from them, if you need any.
2. The large combustion chamber would let you run 10% to 15% nitromethane, maybe more.
3. yes the crankshaft splines and prop driver are reusable.
4. Yes the tapered collet on the crankshaft is reusable. Sometimes it slips back too far and you need to move it forward a little to clear the front bearing and crankcase nose.
MECOA has bought up all of the Fox stuff from the factory. So you may be able to get parts from them, if you need any.
#5042
1. The head button with the tiny chamber is intended for FAI fuel or fuel with little to no nitromethane in it. 5% nitro may be the maximum that you can use with it.
2. The large combustion chamber would let you run 10% to 15% nitromethane, maybe more.
3. yes the crankshaft splines and prop driver are reusable.
4. Yes the tapered collet on the crankshaft is reusable. Sometimes it slips back too far and you need to move it forward a little to clear the front bearing and crankcase nose.
MECOA has bought up all of the Fox stuff from the factory. So you may be able to get parts from them, if you need any.
2. The large combustion chamber would let you run 10% to 15% nitromethane, maybe more.
3. yes the crankshaft splines and prop driver are reusable.
4. Yes the tapered collet on the crankshaft is reusable. Sometimes it slips back too far and you need to move it forward a little to clear the front bearing and crankcase nose.
MECOA has bought up all of the Fox stuff from the factory. So you may be able to get parts from them, if you need any.
#5043
I too had all the Fox 40's and still do - with the Cast Iron (meehanite ) piston and steel sleeve it is vital to run higher real castor fuel . I ran 15% nitro in all my Fox 40's and still have several compact 40 ABC's - they are great engines as are the ..46's and the ABC Eagles (60 and 74) .
#5044
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Here are the pics I promised. Took a bit since worked all weekend.
May work to stabilize the pump as it is just the pulse fitting holding it in place. The upper and lower bosses were milled away and the pump fits tight to them, but will not help against rotational forces when running. That may break the Loctite thread sealant and allow the pump to come loose.
ps. Removed the carb to check it over.
May work to stabilize the pump as it is just the pulse fitting holding it in place. The upper and lower bosses were milled away and the pump fits tight to them, but will not help against rotational forces when running. That may break the Loctite thread sealant and allow the pump to come loose.
ps. Removed the carb to check it over.
#5045
I too had all the Fox 40's and still do - with the Cast Iron (meehanite ) piston and steel sleeve it is vital to run higher real castor fuel . I ran 15% nitro in all my Fox 40's and still have several compact 40 ABC's - they are great engines as are the ..46's and the ABC Eagles (60 and 74) .
I won't mind swapping these low-nitro head buttons for the higher nitro ones if I can find any. That way I can use the same fuel as my other engines.
#5046
I’ve got a compact .40 ABC that has the funnel shaped head for high Nitro and also the small chambered head with the mega wide squish band. If anyone has interest, send a PM. I’ve got to sell some engines to finance other projects.
#5047
Here are the pics I promised. Took a bit since worked all weekend.
May work to stabilize the pump as it is just the pulse fitting holding it in place. The upper and lower bosses were milled away and the pump fits tight to them, but will not help against rotational forces when running. That may break the Loctite thread sealant and allow the pump to come loose.
ps. Removed the carb to check it over.
May work to stabilize the pump as it is just the pulse fitting holding it in place. The upper and lower bosses were milled away and the pump fits tight to them, but will not help against rotational forces when running. That may break the Loctite thread sealant and allow the pump to come loose.
ps. Removed the carb to check it over.
When you look at some other engines with the built in pump, they glued the pump into the backplate too.
Last edited by earlwb; 06-04-2018 at 02:42 PM. Reason: add more info