zx32tt

My Feedback: (9)

I recently acquired 2 old Fox 35's that appear to be 1951 model ECJ 13. Rough sandcast case, tapered steel thrust washer, 4 bolt head with 3 bolt rear cover. They appear to have never been mounted or run. Anyone have an idea of their worth?
thanks in advance for any information on these engines.
Chuck

gmeyers

You didn't talk about boxes - are they MIB ? At this point in time they are most valuable to an OTS enthusiast or collector and their value is determined only by what the buyer will pay. On Facebook you can list with "make offer" to see how that works.

ochsnm00

The best way to find anything's value is to go to ebay and click on "advanced" in the upper right hand corner. Check the "sold" box. Fill in your info and search. From what I can tell; NIB $60, used $25 to $35.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Fox .25;

I just ran the #2 engine I bought:
This thing is quick on the throttle up.

Fox .25
Prop==10x5
Fuel==Wildcat 10% with 18% full synthetic
Plug==Fox Idle bar
Exhaust Davis Soundmaster
Max RPM==12,100
Idle==very smooth 2,500.

gmeyers

The old sandcast foxes have a lot of sentimental value to some folks less to a collector and even less to a flier. Right now on eBay things are totally wacky $200.00 today for something that wouldn't have brought $100.00 last month. If you want to sell it list it (I never recommend reserve prices) start the bidding on your listing at the minimum you would want to receive and if no one bids you aren't out anything. Be sure to word your listing carefully so folks know it's a collectible and unused. Good Luck

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I am a little disappointed that no one gave me fits for using fuel with no castor in it. It has awesome compression on the full synthetic. Cold or hot.

hsukaria

I think we went through that argument a few times.
Assuming that the fuel you are using is plenty good for Fox engines (all of them?), that may not mean that all fuel brands with all synthetic oil will work.

But we can give you a hard time about it if you want.

gmeyers

The ill effects of synthetic castor are longer term though I have seen the piston gaulded to the liner in a single run. Though some of my engines aren't expensive I value them enough to be certain that the amount of real castor is adequate to protect them.

aspeed

I'm game. What about the cumpulsory carbon plating that the Foxes need? And the poor folks in India growing the castor beans. They may starve. I think I am getting synth at Toledo this year, unless it costs way more.

hsukaria

I have been using 2 blends of fuel the 5 years, 20% nitro and 20% synthetic mainly for my 4stroke engines to prevent gumming up the valvetrain. The 2strokes I use 10 to 15 % castor and the rest of the 20% of the oil from synthetic . Works for me since I have small engines that require it, including some that don't have bronze bushings on the conrods.

it would be nice to have only 1 fuel blend, but not gonna happen unless I narrow down the types of engines I run.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

It sure turns slick, with the plug out and the back plate off the piston will fall and turn the crank from any position except at or near tdc.

1QwkSport2.5r

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I just received a Fox .50 yesterday, I got it from a gent in Williamsburg, Va, not far from here. It's a castor queen, it's in the crock pot ready to cook and the Boca Bearings are on the way

As to the baked castor coating on the .25's piston, it doesnn't have one because it's new and un-run so it never will have one. I don't think it's possible to design metal parts that require castor.

aspeed

I never liked the varnish. It always slowed down the motor and gave erratic runs in the Cox and Rossis. Foxes are a different animal maybe, I think they are just run for so many hours, that a bit of extra oil gives them a longer life after a certain amount of time. Just thinking of the 4-2-4 runs in the stunters, and hours of practise. I have some used (to me) .36 and .40s that have maybe ,005" crank slop up and down. A bit of extra oil, and I am sure they will go for a long time still. I really doubt that it matters why type of oil it is, as long as it is thick.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

And slick.

I have a bunch of Fox sleeves and they don't seem to wear, if you think there is a wear ring at the top of a Fox cylinder just take hobby knife and shave it by gently going around the inside of the cylinder and poof, the wear ring is gone. It was just cooked castor.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

If serious, shoot me a PM

1QwkSport2.5r

hsukaria

serious about selling it or about cleaning the castor off?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I needed a .50 crankcase, I found one at MECOA, so I'm all fixed up.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

O/K. Found an old Fox 15 at a friends estate. Seized solid, but was able to free it up. Even with the back and head removed, (offset plug) some serious taper to the sleeve as it tightens right up. Never saw a carb like this before as it has a wide baffle and very little rotation from closed to full throttle. There is a link to the exhaust baffle with fasteners above and below the exhaust port for what looks like a muffler or extension.

Questions are what prop does this one run? Muffler?

Also intended for low or no nitro?

Will post a pic or two later.

gmeyers

I would run it briefly with wooden 8x3 or 8x4 to heat the parts up using fuel with REAL castor oil - that engine doesn't survive synthetic castor for very long. Then I'd drop down to a 7x4 . That engine runs fine on low nitro fuel 0 to 10% and last for many seasons using 17% to 20% real castor fuels.
Muffler may be an issue as some of those .15's were not made to accommodate a muffler. Good Luck

I

Charley

My Feedback: (2)

Looking forward to seeing those pictures! Especially the carb.

CR

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Here are the pics. As you can see, very little throttle movement from one end to the other. Even fully open both the carb bore and exhaust port are at least 50% blocked.

aspeed

Welcome to the pre muffler days. That is the famous Fox .15 hurl victim. You have a contest to see who can throw the motor the farthest. They will work fine but are not the finest examples of a .15. Same prop as most .15s. 7-4, 7-5, 7-6, 8-4, 8-3. We used to race the control line examples of them in the early 1970s.in the stock plain bearing class. Pretty slow, and pit stops had to be just right. I guess this to be a little earlier than the 1970s.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

I plan to try and fire it up at least once on the test stand. Into almost all 4 stroke now so just an exercise for fun.