Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
#26
Thread Starter
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
ORIGINAL: still4given
I doubt the whole regulator is bad, Order a new plunger, diaphragm and gasket set. But first, make sure the pin is seated properly in the plunger. If it is crooked, the plunger wont seat properly. Those parts are inexpensive and will fix the problem.
I doubt the whole regulator is bad, Order a new plunger, diaphragm and gasket set. But first, make sure the pin is seated properly in the plunger. If it is crooked, the plunger wont seat properly. Those parts are inexpensive and will fix the problem.
#27
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
price it all up and then say to yourself after you still can't get it running right................"piss on the mule who suggested this"...........................buy a new regulater and forget about it.
there is a replacement on the table if the new regulater is defective, but no such thing if you try repairing the old one.
there is a replacement on the table if the new regulater is defective, but no such thing if you try repairing the old one.
#28
Thread Starter
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
ORIGINAL: summerwind
price it all up and then say to yourself after you still can't get it running right................''piss on the mule who suggested this''...........................buy a new regulater and forget about it.
there is a replacement on the table if the new regulater is defective, but no such thing if you try repairing the old one.
price it all up and then say to yourself after you still can't get it running right................''piss on the mule who suggested this''...........................buy a new regulater and forget about it.
there is a replacement on the table if the new regulater is defective, but no such thing if you try repairing the old one.
The regulator is an expensive little bugger though! But if this fixes me up, I'm still ahead in the game. Truthfully, I wasn't expecting this motor to be as powerful as it is. Totally surprised me!. This thing is going in a 7lb or so 65" Aeroworks Edge 540. It is going to yank that thing around like a rag doll.
That new YS 1.15 that is coming out sounds like a beast. Al told me that it will have as much or more power than everyone else's 1.40s. Pretty sick. I'd like to have that in a H9 P-51!
#30
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
that's what i mean........buying a new reg will be cheap compared to the hassle you may have if you try to rebuild the old reg and still have nothing but tuning fits.
i'm curious about the 1.15 too, and especially about the regulator they show on it.........doesn't look like there is any adjusment screw, which will be a plus for the guys who just can't leave needles alone
i've been running my 1.10-s since i got it back in feb and haven't touched anything but a valve adjustment..............it's almost like flying electric[:'(]...........but with the ferocious sound
i'm curious about the 1.15 too, and especially about the regulator they show on it.........doesn't look like there is any adjusment screw, which will be a plus for the guys who just can't leave needles alone
i've been running my 1.10-s since i got it back in feb and haven't touched anything but a valve adjustment..............it's almost like flying electric[:'(]...........but with the ferocious sound
#31
Thread Starter
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
OK, regulators are on back order for 4-5 weeks. []
So I took mine apart as carefully as I could and low and behold there was a piece of junk under the plunger. My 47 year old eyes had to use a fish eye magnifying (and lit) glass to see it but it was there. Cleaned that out and put it back together. Runs like a top now. Woohoo! My first YS part surgery!.
If I saw a lean spike to 10,200RPM, where should I tune this thing to run at? I have it at 9500 right now and it can idle as low as 1550 before it wants to back fire and run backwards so I was thinking 1900 to 2000 idle. Someone posted above to set it at 2500 but I'm worried that this Edge 540 is going to be slippery enough to float right on past the runway so I need all the slow down I can get!
Thanks for the replies!
So I took mine apart as carefully as I could and low and behold there was a piece of junk under the plunger. My 47 year old eyes had to use a fish eye magnifying (and lit) glass to see it but it was there. Cleaned that out and put it back together. Runs like a top now. Woohoo! My first YS part surgery!.
If I saw a lean spike to 10,200RPM, where should I tune this thing to run at? I have it at 9500 right now and it can idle as low as 1550 before it wants to back fire and run backwards so I was thinking 1900 to 2000 idle. Someone posted above to set it at 2500 but I'm worried that this Edge 540 is going to be slippery enough to float right on past the runway so I need all the slow down I can get!
Thanks for the replies!
#33
My Feedback: (79)
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
Read these articles about adjusting the idle. It must be set at 2,000 not 2,500. This is the way the Air bleed low speed needle works. It will nothing above 2,000 since it is now running with the Regulator controlling the fuel flow.
http://www.patternflyer.com/troy/?page_id=13
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...ys_engines.htm
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...er/ys_main.htm
http://www.patternflyer.com/troy/?page_id=13
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...ys_engines.htm
http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...er/ys_main.htm
#34
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
Is this engine the "S" version or not? If it is the FZ, I can't imagine needing a new regulator. To easy to rebuild. Maybe I have been assuming the wrong thing.
Is the S regulator difficult to open?
Is the S regulator difficult to open?
#35
My Feedback: (15)
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
I have been going thru almost the same things you guys are. Motorman and Y8E filled me in on info. I just started to get a NIB, about 8 months old from Central, going. Fuel flying out of the carb, when turning over with starter, or sitting still. Central told me today that the regulator may be stuck, turn the screw in a little, back it out. They said it has been a problem with other's.
I did that, seemed like a little tick, like loosening up. See what happens tomorrow.
On the new YS110. It is being replaced with the YS115. Central told me originally it was coming in September. Then December. I got a message from an Oxai dealer in Shanghai, China, told me that Mr. Yamada did not know when the 115 will be available for sale. I may just go for another 110, there are a few for sale on different sites.
Crank
I did that, seemed like a little tick, like loosening up. See what happens tomorrow.
On the new YS110. It is being replaced with the YS115. Central told me originally it was coming in September. Then December. I got a message from an Oxai dealer in Shanghai, China, told me that Mr. Yamada did not know when the 115 will be available for sale. I may just go for another 110, there are a few for sale on different sites.
Crank
#36
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
Hey spinner, good for you! I'm glad you stuck with it. Now you know why it is important to run a fuel filter in the line to the engine. It doesn't take much to prop that valve open and let fuel bleed by.
BTW, While I was at this, I called YSpartsandservice to ask about the S version regulator. He told me they are press fit together and to open them up you just have to pry between the two fuel nipples. He said they have the same components inside that the regulator has. Unless you have had a bad crash or something that damaged the housing, there is no good reason for not just replacing the wear parts. I am writing this to help others who may come to this thread looking for help.
You can get the plunger, spring and diaphragm for less than $15. But to be honest, they don't wear out very easily. It is usually foreign matter or an ill seated plunger pin. Usually a good cleaning and careful reassembly is all that is needed.
Blessings, Terry
BTW, While I was at this, I called YSpartsandservice to ask about the S version regulator. He told me they are press fit together and to open them up you just have to pry between the two fuel nipples. He said they have the same components inside that the regulator has. Unless you have had a bad crash or something that damaged the housing, there is no good reason for not just replacing the wear parts. I am writing this to help others who may come to this thread looking for help.
You can get the plunger, spring and diaphragm for less than $15. But to be honest, they don't wear out very easily. It is usually foreign matter or an ill seated plunger pin. Usually a good cleaning and careful reassembly is all that is needed.
Blessings, Terry
#37
Thread Starter
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
ORIGINAL: still4given
Is this engine the ''S'' version or not? If it is the FZ, I can't imagine needing a new regulator. To easy to rebuild. Maybe I have been assuming the wrong thing.
Is the S regulator difficult to open?
Is this engine the ''S'' version or not? If it is the FZ, I can't imagine needing a new regulator. To easy to rebuild. Maybe I have been assuming the wrong thing.
Is the S regulator difficult to open?
ORIGINAL: SpinnerRow
I have the ''S'' version with the regulator.
I have the ''S'' version with the regulator.
ORIGINAL: still4given
Hey spinner, good for you! I'm glad you stuck with it. Now you know why it is important to run a fuel filter in the line to the engine. It doesn't take much to prop that valve open and let fuel bleed by.
BTW, While I was at this, I called YSpartsandservice to ask about the S version regulator. He told me they are press fit together and to open them up you just have to pry between the two fuel nipples. He said they have the same components inside that the regulator has. Unless you have had a bad crash or something that damaged the housing, there is no good reason for not just replacing the wear parts. I am writing this to help others who may come to this thread looking for help.
You can get the plunger, spring and diaphragm for less than $15. But to be honest, they don't wear out very easily. It is usually foreign matter or an ill seated plunger pin. Usually a good cleaning and careful reassembly is all that is needed.
Blessings, Terry
Hey spinner, good for you! I'm glad you stuck with it. Now you know why it is important to run a fuel filter in the line to the engine. It doesn't take much to prop that valve open and let fuel bleed by.
BTW, While I was at this, I called YSpartsandservice to ask about the S version regulator. He told me they are press fit together and to open them up you just have to pry between the two fuel nipples. He said they have the same components inside that the regulator has. Unless you have had a bad crash or something that damaged the housing, there is no good reason for not just replacing the wear parts. I am writing this to help others who may come to this thread looking for help.
You can get the plunger, spring and diaphragm for less than $15. But to be honest, they don't wear out very easily. It is usually foreign matter or an ill seated plunger pin. Usually a good cleaning and careful reassembly is all that is needed.
Blessings, Terry
I installed it in the plane yesterday and am currently waiting on some servos from Tower to get here. Should fly it next weekend. Plane is light - under 8lbs so it should be a rocket.
#38
My Feedback: (15)
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
I have crossed all my T's and dotted all the i's. New YS110S, it did have a stuck regulator, now OK, the fuel is not pouring out of the carb like a river anymore. New YS plug, glow lighter charged up, 30% CP Heli fuel, all fuel lines intact, strong starter.
I am not an expert, first 4 stroke, ready to send to repair station. I was ready to buy another new one I found, same engine, but the misery index is setting in. I have not touched the idle NV, and the main is back out
1 - 3/4 turn for start. Proper run thru with prop without contact, then contact, prop it with starter, Zero, DOA. Is this normal, did I buy a lemon ?
Going for a Miller's.
Vince
I am not an expert, first 4 stroke, ready to send to repair station. I was ready to buy another new one I found, same engine, but the misery index is setting in. I have not touched the idle NV, and the main is back out
1 - 3/4 turn for start. Proper run thru with prop without contact, then contact, prop it with starter, Zero, DOA. Is this normal, did I buy a lemon ?
Going for a Miller's.
Vince
#43
Thread Starter
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
Mine started right up but I set the needle at 1.5 turns out from fully closed. 1.75 out like you have it won't cause it not to fire.
Do you have pressure in your fuel system? After you flip the prop 10 or so times (WOT no glow starter), pull the vent line off and see if it was pressurized. You should hear it rush out.
If you have a regulator in front like mine, the top nipple is fuel and the bottom is the vent tube. Make sure the check valve is in right as well.
I'm no expert (obviously) but these are things I would check.
Do you have pressure in your fuel system? After you flip the prop 10 or so times (WOT no glow starter), pull the vent line off and see if it was pressurized. You should hear it rush out.
If you have a regulator in front like mine, the top nipple is fuel and the bottom is the vent tube. Make sure the check valve is in right as well.
I'm no expert (obviously) but these are things I would check.
#46
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RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
spinnerrow, it sounds if you were describing my engine when it was new!!!!!! i had all the same problems you had! i did the same things you did, i called central hobbies, i read every thing i could around here, and cleaned out and flushed my reg. out - i did not see or find anything in there but i think that fixed the problem , it had to because when i ran the motor agian it ran like a swiss watch!! and it is a beast in power! apc 15x8 @ 10,100 richen up to 9,700 to fly on 15%! so stay with it.
#47
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
ORIGINAL: crankpin
W8. Is that your Champ ? Plugged, regulator ? Once in a while it will fire, just fire, like a back kick. That's it.
Vicne
W8. Is that your Champ ? Plugged, regulator ? Once in a while it will fire, just fire, like a back kick. That's it.
Vicne
Blessings, Terry
#48
Thread Starter
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
w8ye, this weekend I got to experience one of those nasty YS 1.10 backfires you warned me about.
I took my new plane to fly this weekend and put it on the plane test stand to range check it and run the engine a bit more. I cranked the motor and it ran nice for the first minute or so. I had it running about 3500 or so and then it went lean real quick, backfired and the prop dropped off onto the ground. I took the spinner apart and got the nut and washer out of it and bolted the prop up without the spinner. I checked all of the connections on my new fuel system, looking for a leak some where but couldn't find one. I cranked it back up again and again, it seemed to be running fine for 60 seconds or so. I ran it up a bit more to about 6-7000rpm and it went lean super quick, backfired real nasty and the prop went flying about 40 feet. Damn thing sounded like a giant humming bird! Scared the bejesus out of me! I have a new found respect for these engines now I can tell ya. I lost the prop nut so my day was done (nobody at the field had one). When I got it home, I found that the check valve had come apart and was leaking enough to keep the fuel system from pressurizing.
I will now remember the sound the engine makes as it starts detonating and about to backfire. That was exciting to say the least!
I took my new plane to fly this weekend and put it on the plane test stand to range check it and run the engine a bit more. I cranked the motor and it ran nice for the first minute or so. I had it running about 3500 or so and then it went lean real quick, backfired and the prop dropped off onto the ground. I took the spinner apart and got the nut and washer out of it and bolted the prop up without the spinner. I checked all of the connections on my new fuel system, looking for a leak some where but couldn't find one. I cranked it back up again and again, it seemed to be running fine for 60 seconds or so. I ran it up a bit more to about 6-7000rpm and it went lean super quick, backfired real nasty and the prop went flying about 40 feet. Damn thing sounded like a giant humming bird! Scared the bejesus out of me! I have a new found respect for these engines now I can tell ya. I lost the prop nut so my day was done (nobody at the field had one). When I got it home, I found that the check valve had come apart and was leaking enough to keep the fuel system from pressurizing.
I will now remember the sound the engine makes as it starts detonating and about to backfire. That was exciting to say the least!
#50
RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
I am no YS expert, but I bought a used 1.10 and got it running yesterday. It took about 2 hours of working at it to get it finally running. After the first time it started, it cut out lean at a low rpm and loosened the prop enough so the starter would not turn it right, but it would hand flip and seem like everything was fine. Once that was fixed, we did a manual "delay box" to get it started by spinning the prop over with the starter and another with a lead off the glow panel, and then connect once it spun up. After I got it adjusted it was great, but I dont think I could have got it started by my self the first time. The first start was with a glow stick and would probably have worked the other times, but spinning it up first realy makes it start easer.