Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

I bought a lightly used YS 1.10FZ today was wondering where I can download the manual for it.

Also what is the difference between the 1.10S and 1.10FZ?

Thanks!

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

The 110S has the regulator mounted on the intake pushrod tube

Manuals below

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

Those manuals don't say anything about tuning the regulator. Where can I find that information?

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

http://www.patternflyer.com/troy/?page_id=13

http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...ys_engines.htm

http://www.geistware.com/rcmodeling/...er/ys_main.htm

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

The regulator is to be set flush with the housing (factory setting). If you have a rich midrange screw it in to lean it, if you have a lean midrange screw it out to richen it up, just like a high needle works on the top end. How much you will have to adjust is up to you to determine

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

The OP has the "S" version

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

Test ran my YS 1.10 tonight. Nice engine. About 9,700RPM on an APC 16x6 and 20/20 fuel running a bit rich and could probably have gotten 10,000 out of it. I think that is comparable to what I have been reading about this engine. From what I was told the engine is "just broken in" but I'm not really sure. It looks close to new. It starts easy and would idle down to 1750 (sounding like a John Deere tractor) and it was quiet. I'm an avid 2-stroke fan but I might can get used to these 4-strokers!

I need to get a set of metric feeler gauges so that I can check the valve clearance. I like the fact that the fuel system is pressurized and I can put the tank anywhere I want!

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

Keep the idle at 2000

<u><span style="font-size: larger;">Leave it rich</span></u>. Your statement about leaning it out completely sends chills down my back

A lean Y-S will back fire harder than any four stroke you ever heard. It will likely tear up the spinner and throw the prop. Leave it rich

It is already making much more power than a Saito 125

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

i thought from the OP's opening post that he had bought the "FZ" version but was asking what the difference was between the "S" and "FZ" version which is about 300rpm more for the "S" version.

the regulator on the "S" version sets a little below flush to start out.
i do agree on not getting greedy with the HS needle though.
set the HS needle to get a nice smoke trail, but don't go too rich...it will backfire and throw the prop there as well.........and when adjusting the HS needle, give it time to come on as it takes longer for the new setting to take affect. i've seen would be YS tuners turn the HS needle all over the place as the new setting doesn't kick in right away, and think they need to keep tweaking.

if the engine runs smoothly at 4,000 rpm, then leave it alone................if it drops off on rpm's, then turn in in to lean it......if it surges (rpm's oscillate up and down) then richen it.....a 1/16 of a turn at a time makes a big difference.

running 20/20 is smart too as some guys try to run lower nitro and have nothing but tuning problems as the HS needle has less of a sweet spot.

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

From my reading about this engine, it is good to keep it rich and I tuned it for 9400 or so RPM. I'm familiar with lean back fires having tuned turbocharged and supercharged racing engines for years but still good info. I bet it is ugly when it throws a prop!

So what would a Saito 125 be turning this prop at?
I have the "S" version with the regulator.

I did notice that the HS needle was a bit slow to respond.

I'll try the 4000RPM test this afternoon and see where the regulator is at. Right now it is set flush with the top of the regulator case.

I can tell that this thing is thirsty from what little i have run it. Lots of smoke at WOT and I'm running Cool Power Pro-Pattern 20/20 all synthetic fuell. I bet a lot of that is nitro smoke.

Would I gain much by using 30%?

Thanks for the replies guys. Off to adjust the valves and run it some more.

Thanks again!

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

The Saito 125's vary but they are generally at least 500 rpm less than your 110 with the APC 16 X 6 and 20-20 fuel

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

SpinnerRow,

keep it where it is for now.........the smoke is due to the oil content and is normal.
i have run some CP Heli 30% which is even higher oil content.........looks like i have a smoke system installed when set off on the rich side:D............the needle setting is even less sensitive (good thing), and but definately provides more grunt.
i'm able to use an APC 15x10 with 30%............
with PM 20/20 i'm using an APC 15x8

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

The main feature of the "S" version, that is not visible from the outside, is the ring on the crank shaft. It seals the rear portion of the crankcase off from the forward part which give a better boost to the supercharging. This is why they turn more RPMs than the non-S version. The two regulators work basically the same. They moved it to the down-tubes on the S version for better cooling, but it works exactly the same.

Blessings, Terry

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

I have air bubbles between the regulator in front and the carburetor. This can't be right. I don't have any bubbles anywhere else in my fuel system. Just between the regulator in front and the carburetor.

Any suggestions?

By the way. Where is a good place for YS parts?

And... What size are the nuts on the valve adjusters? I didn't get a wrench with my engine.



Dang, that is definately a difference.

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

Central Hobbbies has the best prices for YS parts.:D
http://www.centralhobbies.com/

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942339000P $13.99

&lt;script type="text/javascript"> imgArr.push(new imgObj('00942339000-1','640','640')); </script&gt;http://s.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00...sm=0.9,0.5,0,0

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

The bubbles are normal for an YS, that`s why they use dark blue tubing to conseal them to avoid people seeing them and trying to fix something that is supposed to be like that;)

Perfectly normal, both my YS`s and a friend of mine`s too have them, nothing to worry about

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

Air bubbles in the reg/carb line are normal and not to be worried over. They use a dark blue line so you can't see them.

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

I talked to guy named Al at Central Hobbies and he was asking me a few questions and he made a few observations:

- When I got the engine, the regulator screw was well below flush with the top of the housing. I've tried screwing it out to what the manual says but my engine won't run. It burbles way rich and dies.
- I can see fuel bubbling into the carburetor when the engine isn't running.

Al seems to think that I have junk in the diaphram of the regulator holding it open and allowing fuel to pass or maybe a bad diaphram. I'm going to try to take it apart and clean it. If I can't do that I may order a new one.

Cool! So is it a 4, 4.5 or 5.5mm?

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

spinnerRow,
both of my 1.10-s engines have the reg. screw below flush out of the box.................you may want to try putting the screw back where it was.

the only right way to set the regulator is with the 4,000 rpm check.

where in the manual did you find the setting for the diaphram?

the 1.10fz is set flush, but the 1.10-s is not stated.

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

Keep in mind that the regulator adjustment screw pushes against a spring that forces the silicone plunger closed. The diaphragm presses against the pin that pushes the plunger open when the diaphragm is moved by the pressure pulses from the crankcase. A slight difference in the tension from one spring to another requires that the tension be adjusted. It is not surprising that some regulator adjustment screws would be in a slightly different position. It doesn't take a very big piece of junk to prop the plunger open enough to allow fuel past when it is not supposed to pass. If you are seeing fuel enter the carb when the engine is off, it is usually something propping the plunger open. However, if the adjustment screw is too far out, there may not be enough tension against the plunger to hold back the pressurized fuel.

Blessings, Terry

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

After talking with Central Hobbies, they suggested I take the regulator apart and check it for dirt or gunk. My engine is filling up the carburetor after the engine is shut off. It keeps pumping fuel into the carb until the pressure in the tank is gone.

I may be looking at ordering a new regulator as after taking it apart, I didn't see any dirt or gunk in it. I blew it with air and soaked it in clean fuel before putting it back together. Same thing - carb is filling up after the engine is shut off.

I can adjust the regulator to get a decent 4000 RPM run but if I go to idle it loads up quick and dies. The low speed needle seems to be ineffective. If I lean the regulator out, it starves at the top and I have to go way rich on the HS needle. And then if I stop the engine it pumps fuel furiously into the carb until the pressure in the tank is gone. I doubt this behavior is normal but I could be wrong. Heck I saw 10,200rpm at one point with this thing so it was way lean. Engine is strong as mule piss I tell ya!

Central Hobbies told me that the carb filling problem is a sign of a faulty or dirty regulator. So I may be ordering one here shortly unless you guys have some suggestions?

Thanks!

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

i think you found the best solution, and it'll be a cheap price to pay vs a fried motor.

never knew mule piss was that strong though:D:D:D

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

I agree. I got this engine for a steal of a price and this may be why. The previous owner may have had some problems tuning it as well.

I grew up around farms in Tennessee and mule piss is stronger than any beer/broccoli/asparagus piss any human can conjure up!

This is my first 4 stroke engine and I like the sound and power and I'm sure I can figure out the tuning. But.... An OS 120AX would have been much more simple to tune and maintain I'm sure but I got this engine for way less that a new 120AX would have cost me so I figured I'd give it a try.

RE: Manual For a YS 1.10FZ
 

I doubt the whole regulator is bad, Order a new plunger, diaphragm and gasket set. But first, make sure the pin is seated properly in the plunger. If it is crooked, the plunger wont seat properly. Those parts are inexpensive and will fix the problem.