oldschool77

My Feedback: (3)

Building up a nice roller (Savage X clone, Sav 25) with a Thunder Tiger Pro.28. Motor was installed, broke in a tank, noticed the clutch was slipping. Hmmm

Tightened up spur-no difference
Examinied shoes-ok
Noticed the flywheel wa slipping on the crankshaft!

I did the obvious. I assembled the flywheel correctly originally with locknut on the nut that holds down the cone washer. Well there isa bit ore space between the flywheel/motor despite the locktight.

problem is I CAN'T LOOSEN OR TIGHTEN THE NUT ON THE SHAFT!

I ate a bearing on the clutch bell trying to get it off, I think the extra friction caused it to stick to the nut somehow. No big deal.

I took off teh pullstart to get a grip (protecting the shaft of course) and I still can't get the locktited nut off!

AM I SCREWED?!?!?!

doh!

I know there are tools for getting it off AFTER the nut has been removed...

BANKRUPTER

You guys and lock tite theres no reason to lock tite that nut. I have a motor here with broken treads on the shaft only because of lock tite. Bought off a noob.. What lock tite did you use? Please say green or blue. If red you might be screwed. If red that is permanent stuff no use for it on a model. But if so heat lots of heat till it starts to smoke (it being the lock tite) and it will emit a funny smell at that point the lock tite is unset and it will come off. But it will most likely wreck something else. Blue or green you'll be ok, just warm it a bit it will let go..

BANKRUPTER

edit

twomanytoys

The only thing that can get teh nut loose when locktite was used is by heating the nut up. Heat will soften locktite.

oldschool77

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the replys...got off the blue with heat.

I was suggested by a friend with a few savs to go for the red and I did. Brand new motor, brand new flywheel...red was the way to go. Why you may ask.

I found out the blue loctite wasn't strong enough and the flywheel/nut actually unthreaded outwards towards the spur and got jammed against the bearings. I had to replace the inward clutch bell bearing and reassemble with a shim between the cone washer and after the black nut. I also put in stiffer springs for the shoes...what a difference!

I ran the truck for 2 minutes after all was said and done (only 2 minutes for fear of loosening again before full cure) and it ran like a scalded dog at 1/8 throttle! Still breaking in so I can't say much more until it is done but thanks for recommending heat! I think this red will serve me fine...I don't anticipate taking of the flywheel ever and the 3 shoe setup should be fine.

oldschool77

My Feedback: (3)

For the record the red was recommended by a plumber who said a blowtorch( yes) can get it off after 5-6 minutes if the motor doesn't melt in your hand before that.

NitroVenom

HAHA A blowtorch..?!? 5-6 minutes...!?! BwaHAHAHa.. Why would use it if it takes a blowotrch to come off..? I've never had a problem like this.. I don't think your tightening it enough.

BANKRUPTER

Yep, For the record I use NO lock tite on any of my 5 motors and Have never had problems with this or my planes in over 5 yrs... And a torch is the only way to break Red I know,I am a heavy equipment mechanic. But how are your bearing seals now ??? Good luck with the aftermath..
If you hold your flywheel with vice grips tape it for protection and put that nut on with a socket. It will never come of with out the same tools. If your using a 4 way to put it on I see it coming back off. Or being loose on the collet...

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

I've never used any loctite on my engines, ever...and i've had probably 20 of em.

What does a plumber know about RC cars?

BANKRUPTER

I think to be a plumer you need to know poop don't flow uphill. And don't bite your finger nails... "Put some pipe dope on there she'll never come off".... lol sorry Just don't use RED anywhere on you truck again...

Oregon mud

There is no need to use red loctite on an R/C in my opinion. Blue works fine if the parts have been properly cleaned and are not oily. JM2C

BANKRUPTER

^^^ oldschool77 vvv This guys been a member here for over 2 years and he just posted for the first time on this... LOL I hope you get the hint...

Oregon mud

And thats only if you MUST use it. (loctite)

BudBud

I have over 30 nitro engines and not a one with locktite on the pilot nut. I do not use a piston lock either. I just put on a piar of light leather gloves and hold the flywheel with one hand will tightening the nut with a 1/4" ratchet. If the collet is right for the shaft and flywheel, that should be enough. I have never had one come loose either. I guess if you want to make sure it is tight, heat the flywheel before installing. Tighten your nut and when the flywheel cools, it will pinch the collet and should be plenty tight. BB

oldschool77

My Feedback: (3)

Maybe the blowtorch is extreme...but it needs alot of heat.

I used to run planes up to .60 size when I was 13 and thought I had a handle on R/c. Now 30 years old and dealing with nitro small/big blocks it like a whole new education. Although I aint too wild about getting flames (for lack of a better word) I can understand the sceptics.

I swear I put channel locks on the fly, tightened with a Cen wrench the flywheel nut (i mean cen stuff is freakin big and tough right?lolz) and used blue. As I mentioned, I ran 1/2 tank and was awesome. I restarted for the break-in and the truck was slipping. Not the spur, not the shoes. The blue locktited flywheel unscrewed itself and backed out! I kid you not.

Maybe the red is overkill but who cares. It will never come off no matter what and I am guaranteed to not have the joy of ripping everything off ever again.

The way i see it for every person who has 30 nitro motors and not needed locktite, there are 30 modelers who haveneeded it.

Case in point, my first R/C was a threadlock-less Clod. Nuf said. You bet your gas I bought 2 bottles after having to pretty much rebuild the whole truck.

Why not have a little security on the most important part of a truck? These aren't screws for the radio box I am talking about. It is a crucial part that could easily build a ton of heat from excessive slipping and cause some damage.

I don't swat flies with a snow shovel but you get the idea.

Blue failed...time to step it up to red.

Thanks again for the help...problem solved!

oldschool77

My Feedback: (3)

Parts and motor..spankin new out of the box except for the motor flush of production crud.

oldschool77

My Feedback: (3)

Actually quite alot.

2 Savages

MMT

LST-2

Cen Nemesis

Cen Genesis

MGT

2 ST-1's with this same motor.

Countless gallons and motors in the last 6 years...I trust his judgement greatly.

I din't walk up to the parts counter at home depot...I asked someone who never had aflywheel fail with red...that is all. Being a plumber simply was to prove he has used chemicals and contractor like supplies for different jobs. he could have been a dog groomer, astronaut, bus driver or baseball coach...it wasn't the point.

Oregon mud

A persons job doesnt usualy have a lot to do with their hobby. Actualy, the furter from your real job it is the better. lol

oldschool77

My Feedback: (3)

I hear ya. Crap..I teach middle school music!

Itsme7

I never use locktite on my engines. The only place i use red locktite on are on the cvds or on the diff cups. I dont use it anywhere else. I use blue on all other metal\metal connections.

ThunderbirdJunkie

My Feedback: (3)

No crap, I essentially quit RC cars after working for an RC company...just starting to play with my cars again.

The fact of the matter is, i'm sure the OP's problem is that the flywheel collet was improperly sized, not because of loctite or lack thereof.

and where in the hell are you going to use loctite on a clodbuster? only thing I can think of is the motor screws...

RCCanuck

I use red and blue loctite on my RC's......I actually mix the red and blue together for a stronger hold for the engine mount...I use the red stuff by itself for my CVD's.....if I go to the track I put a tiny dab of blue on my wheels nuts to keep them from backing off......I don't care how tight you make them they back off eventually especially at the track.

Oh and it sounds like you had the wrong clutch nut for the crank.