Diffs & Dogbones.....
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,099
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: Amarillo,
TX
pray tell, for those of you using locked diffs or spools, are you breaking dogbones every time you run your trucks? (I've got an LRP and a locked rear diff, and every single time I start it and play around for 10-15 minutes I'm snapping dogbones)
my further question is, if I'm twisting them off like that, what on earth can I do (other than just putting a loose diff back in, which fixed my front end) to keep from tearing them up so easy? are there stronger ones? the titanium ones maybe?
another question was this, I was looking at building a crawler and considering using twinforce axles for it and came across some "Torsen Diff's" made by either ofna or kyosho, from what I got of it, they're semi-lockers, when both tires have traction, they'll lock up, but as soon as one tire comes off the ground they unlock (which, may solve part of the breaking problem if it's happening in the event of a roll or a jump or whatever), I was wondering if these would work in the savvy (unfortunately I don't remember what the physical size of them is, but, the ring is 42 or 43 tooth if memory serves)
any ideas would be helpful, thanks in advance guys (and girls, if there are any out there)
my further question is, if I'm twisting them off like that, what on earth can I do (other than just putting a loose diff back in, which fixed my front end) to keep from tearing them up so easy? are there stronger ones? the titanium ones maybe?
another question was this, I was looking at building a crawler and considering using twinforce axles for it and came across some "Torsen Diff's" made by either ofna or kyosho, from what I got of it, they're semi-lockers, when both tires have traction, they'll lock up, but as soon as one tire comes off the ground they unlock (which, may solve part of the breaking problem if it's happening in the event of a roll or a jump or whatever), I was wondering if these would work in the savvy (unfortunately I don't remember what the physical size of them is, but, the ring is 42 or 43 tooth if memory serves)
any ideas would be helpful, thanks in advance guys (and girls, if there are any out there)
#2
I don't run lockers in my Savage, but I do snap a lot of dogbones. I run THS CVDs, and I consider them the weakest link in my drivetrain, which is ok, They're easier to change on the field than diff or tranny gears. If you want to beef up your drive axles, I'd recommend MIP CVDs. I haven't run them on a monster truck, but on all my 10th scale stuff they've been pretty indestructible.
#3
I like the old black bones better than the new heavy duty shiny ones. They are not as resistant to wear, but they seem to be a little more forgiving. BB
#4
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 5,382
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: , PA
If you unlock your diff and just use a thick fluid you wont break them anymore and still get about the same traction. Lovked diffs is the hardest thing on your drivetrain and unless your crawling there is no need for it. I have been building real off road trucks for about 15yrs. I can change an axle and rebuild a diff in my sleep.
#5
Its not the locked diffs!
Its not the engine!
its the dogbones!
I ran a Collari 32,Force 32 STS 30...those engines are very torquey.
I have had locked diffs for a long time front ,and rears on both savages.
Get these CVDs
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hpi-Savage-21-25...QQcmdZViewItem
I have not burned up a drive cup since I changed to those,and I have only broken 2 axle cvds in about 16 gallons of fuel.
You WILL notice a difference in your ride after you put those on.
BTW the 2 that did break the seller replaced no questions asked.
CS
Its not the engine!
its the dogbones!
I ran a Collari 32,Force 32 STS 30...those engines are very torquey.
I have had locked diffs for a long time front ,and rears on both savages.
Get these CVDs
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hpi-Savage-21-25...QQcmdZViewItem
I have not burned up a drive cup since I changed to those,and I have only broken 2 axle cvds in about 16 gallons of fuel.
You WILL notice a difference in your ride after you put those on.
BTW the 2 that did break the seller replaced no questions asked.
CS
#6
ORIGINAL: burnchassis3
Its not the locked diffs!
Its not the engine!
its the dogbones!
I ran a Collari 32,Force 32 STS 30...those engines are very torquey.
I have had locked diffs for a long time front ,and rears on both savages.
Get these CVDs
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hpi-Savage-21-25...QQcmdZViewItem
I have not burned up a drive cup since I changed to those,and I have only broken 2 axle cvds in about 16 gallons of fuel.
You WILL notice a difference in your ride after you put those on.
BTW the 2 that did break the seller replaced no questions asked.
CS
Its not the locked diffs!
Its not the engine!
its the dogbones!
I ran a Collari 32,Force 32 STS 30...those engines are very torquey.
I have had locked diffs for a long time front ,and rears on both savages.
Get these CVDs
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hpi-Savage-21-25...QQcmdZViewItem
I have not burned up a drive cup since I changed to those,and I have only broken 2 axle cvds in about 16 gallons of fuel.
You WILL notice a difference in your ride after you put those on.
BTW the 2 that did break the seller replaced no questions asked.
CS
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From: St.Albert,
AB, CANADA
I have got FLM dogbones now and have only bent one not snapped. So if you are having the problem just switch to FLM dogbones and forget about them.



