willig10

Allright guys hereare my questions. Using either monokote, ultrakote etc.

1. How do you cover a fuselage using 2 colors and get a perfect line down the middle of the fuselage? In other words as an example say you were going to do the top half of the fuselage in one color and the lower half in another color where the 2 colors meet i.e the centerline of the fuse how do you make that line straight? I have noticed that sometimes when you use 2 colors the top color sometimes will bleed.


I am looking for step by step instructions.

This is for a giant scale model not a small model. I am not going to glass this model so can we leave that discussion alone? This is just for heat shrink coveringpurposes only.

2. Also have any of you used monokote or ultrakote on the fiberglass cowl and wing tips?

Thanks in advance
Glenn Williams

rye

My Feedback: (10)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1N96v...eature=related use ultrakote much better to work with

Campgems

Glenn, put down your light color first, it will not blead through the dark one.

If you don't get your seam straight, try some 1/8" black detail tape from teh auto store. It hides small gaps and really makes the colors stand out.

Here is an example of using it on some detail work. The edges were almost imposible to get a tight fit and the tape saved the day. You don't notice the black tape until you look close.

Don

willig10

Thanks guys. Ihave seen the video and it looks great and all. I guess I am making a mountain out of a mole hill but I dont want to cover the entire fuselage with one color then add detail.

Here is what I am after.

1. I know you cover the bottom half of the fuse first. I am thinking black here. This is the "easy" part.

2. Then I do the top half. I am thinking a pearl orange/copper.

3. when getting the 2 colors to meet from the nose to the tail I want as crisp (straight) line as possible.

Due to shrinkage etc how do you guys get the line to stay straight or what method do you use? I can foresee ironing an excessive amount past the split line and then cutting to fit.

Looking for a better way.

Anyway as I said maybe I am making this too big a deal.

Thanks again.

outdoorhunting

Wow !!! Nice looking covering job. I wish I had the patience (& the talent) to do something like that.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Once the bottom is covered, cut the top piece using a metal straightedge so you're starting with a straight line. Lay the piece in place and tack the two ends.

Now turn down the heat on the iron. With LOW heat, go over the seam. Increase the heat a little and repeat. Keep doing this until the seam is properly sealed.

An alternative method is to spray the adhesive side of the covering with MonoKote Trim Solvent (if you're using MonoKote) or Xylol (if you're using Ultracote). Lay the piece in place, squeegie out any excess liquid and let it sit overnight. You can touch it up with an iron the next day.

If you get any color bleed, you can remove MK color with Acetone.

RickShane

My Feedback: (1)

Iused a carpenters chalk line and ran it down the side, and snapped the line and it leaves a colored chalk line. Sinple and easy to do. As you can see on my Corsair the top is blue, and the bottom is white, and it'sa very straight.

LesUyeda

"2. Also have any of you used monokote or ultrakote on the fiberglass cowl and wing tips? "

I have, on fiberglass and plastic, both, and it ain't easy. The problem is that the covering tends to develop air bubbles in the middle of things, just where you don't want them. I have used a pin, to burst the bubble and iron down again, but it has, on occasion, taken many tries to get it to all lay down.

p.s., Don't forget to wash the fiberglass with warm soapy water first and dry well. Many of the fiberglass parts have mold release left on them, that will complicate life even more.

Les

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I have covered the bottom first then come over the top with a different color but before I iron the area where they over lap I have tacked on a piece of balsa sheeting onto the fuse just over the bottom color, bring the top covering over the top of the wood then used a straight edge where I want the seam and cut with a sharp knife. Remove the wood sheet and iron down. Then like Don I use the line tape. I now have a covering stripe cutter and use covering instead of the tape. This is just one way I have done it, over lay and cut. I have also made up paper templates and pre cut the covering but it doesn't always work out well.

sgillmore

My Feedback: (50)

The chalk line is a great idea for marking the fuse. I've found that a flexible tape measure (like a tailor/seamstress would use) is invaluable when covering.

Using the turtle deck as an example, here's what I do:

1. Mark the horizontal line down the fuse.

2. Use the flexible tape to measure the distance over the top of the fuse. The number of measurements depends on the shape of the model. Sometimes you can get away with one measurement at the rear-most part of the fuse and one right behind the canopy. Sometimes, I'll take measurements in 3" to 6" increments. I almost always put a seam in the middle of the canopy. Use the same technique for the front.

3. I then use those measurements to make a paper template of the piece. That way I can test fit and tweak on paper which is much less expensive than covering.

4. Once I'm satisfied with the fit, I trace the shape onto the covering and cut it out.

5. Then, what MinFlyer said. Once the seams are tacked down well, you should have a piece that requires very little shrinkage.

Here's a Goldberg Sukhoi that I covered a few years back. Wish I had thought of using a chalk line though!

This technique also helps you get the most out of your covering. If you make templates for the major pieces before actually cutting the covering, you can lay them out on the roll of covering to help reduce waste.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

You can lay your two colors out on a sheet of glass. Then seam them with a 1/4" overlap right on the glass. Just use the heal of the iron and heat the seam only. Then just put it on as one big piece. Start at the seam and work your way up/down. If your wife is not home, sometimes a large picture from the living room will have glass on the front.
If you get any bleed, trim solvent will take it right off.

David