redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Good work Fabio!

I did a pressure test on all the connections in the fuse, I aired it up to 100psi Sunday morning and after about 5 hours the psi read about 60#'s. Over the next 2 days it only dropped another 20 or so. I'd say I'm good to go there.

I was really pondering over how I wanted to attach the switch door. I really wasn't too excited about hinging it with door hinges. I was afraid with my big hands I would break it off while filling the air. I settled on epoxying some K&S steel sheet to the inside of the door and making a lip for the door to slide behind the sheeting. Two super magnets are attracted to the steel and hold it very well, it's removable so I don't have to be overly cautious while topping the air off. I don't think there is any way I will lose it in flight, around the garage may be a different story.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Looking good Gary...Looking good.

Are you making a little handle for the switch door or are you going to use your nail?
Nail usually wears off the paint where you pry the door open after a while.

I would like your opinion on something.

On Peter OZ's thread on page 162 if you scroll down to post 4031, Craig is repairing his gear after a bad landing.
I really like his final result, how he beefs up the gear mount particularly the inboard one.
I am practically at a stage which I can modify the mounting block as I please without much effort.
I would like to hear your take on it.

Fabio

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Gary, Looking good!!!!!!I got started back on mine this eve, sheeting on the turtle deck/ razor backis drying asI type. It felt good to see some balsa dust floating in the air again...lol


Jimbo

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks Guys.

I'm just going to use my nail, the scratched paint should add a nice "weathering" affect.

IMO Fabio, depending on the field you fly from will determine how much beefing up you will need. Everything is going to have a breaking point when enough stress is placed on it. Beefing up the gear mounts to the point where they won't break will cause something else to fail. Since they are glued to the spar, the leading edge, and the top sheeting I would fear that the mounts are so strong that it will cause one of those areas to fail next in the chain.
I believe that Top Flite engineered this kit pretty well, they want the gear mounts to fail before the spar does, Robart wants the nylon block to fail before the mounts do, and so on.....
I have seen a lot of guys mount the gear with nylon bolts so they will fail and not take out the gear mounts. I was going to replace the nylon block in the gear with the metal one from Sierra Giant Scale, I haven't gotten around to ordering it yet, and don't know if I will before the maiden. I might just see how it goes once I start the taxi tests.
That's one good thing about the wing pylons and dummy bombs, if the gear fails they will save the wing and paint from getting scratched up.

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

BTW, Last night I found where I was still losing a little bit of air, the purple line coming off the valve had a tiny split in it. I trimmed it off and re-attached it then charged the system back up. This morning it was still reading just under a 100 psi. [8D]

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

If you guys are looking for a good gauge and fill chuck, Hobby King has them for a lot less than the other guys. Cheap and they work just like the name brand. The gauge is in megapascals and 100 psi converts to 0.689 mpa.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=12958
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=8369

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

That's good to here, your last post on it made it clear you had a leak.. A small leak always has a way of turning into a big leak at the worst times, glad you found it and got it fixed........

You are 100% right on making gear to strong, it can lead to bigger problems.. I did that on a GP Reactor and now I don't have a GP Reactor..........

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

I guess we will keep it stock and I will learn how to land better.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

I've seen a guy at our warbird a few years back that used nylon bolts on a giant AT-6 with a G-62. It was orange and decked out as a racing plane. This plane has been flying for years like that and only saw him replace the nylon bolts once in all that time. I'm sure there were other times but I didnt see them. I might try it on a .60 sized warbird to see how it holds up.
Edwin

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

I got the receiver installed on an upper shelf that I built. The space on the servo tray was just too cramped, and the wiring was too close to the servos. I didn't want anything getting tangled up in linkage, and now there is no chance of that scenario happening. Everything just clears the wing by millimeters.
I still have to locate all the remote receivers and get an extension for the data terminal. The other two wires in the clip are the charge leads.

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Gary,
got a question.. How do you like the way they did the pushrods? I just installed my tubes and I didn't care for the bends it made towards the tail, I slid my pushrods in and they move but not like how I like them to move.. Did you do yours to plan, or make any changes?
I got some time and will ponder the idea of changing them up some, I love solid rod like they call for, but don't want any funky bends in them, at least till they exit the fuse....

Jimbo

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Jimbo I'm not real excited about how they exit either. At first the rod wanted to bind up a little where they exit. I gave the rod a little bit of a curve to follow the tubes and it seems to be working fine and the servos center correctly. I had to put some pretty exotic bends in the rod outside the fuse to get the rods lined up with the horns according to the plans, I'm really not liking that. I may have to revisit this portion, the more I look at it the more I hate it. I even soldered a little angle brace on one of the rods, I hate that too. []

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Well I'm not alone then.. It just isn't how I like them and I figured I would have to put the same bends in like you did.. I will post some pics over in my thread after dinner, my bottom is still all open, so changing it won't be bad at all.. Yours might be a bit of a problem with it all closed in...

It almost looks like they tried to leave the area where the tailwheel goes up open, but I don't think that the wheel goes that high.. Does your tailwheel retract past the center spare on the fuse, or does it stop shy?

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

It doesn't retract past the cut-out in 9B so relocating the tubes shouldn't be a problem Jimbo.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

On my TF GS P-51 the rods are bent as well.
Little bend in the tubes and when the rods come out the fuse I gave it a gentle radius to meet the control horn.
Attaching the rod to the surface and moving it by hand, they feel pretty smooth with little binding.
Warbirds need very little throw unlike 3d planes, so when you test them by hand on the building board all you really need is a little deflection from center either way.
Something that a decent servo can handle with no problem.

I would change that double bend Gary, to a gentle radius once the rod comes out the fuse.
Just my opinion......

Fabio

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

I'm probably going to do that and I may also turn the horn at an angle a little bit to line up better. Edwin, I see you in here, what do you think?

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Huh? Me? After seeing those posts I looked at mine. I ran mine pretty straight if I remember correctly (but maybe not). As I looked at it more, I might see if I can come up with a joining rod, about 1/8" or so. That would do less damage to the rudder hinge line. I'm not near as far along as ya'll are. Its set aside while I finish a H9 B-25. Mine will be done with less detail as yours and a razor back. I bought a fiberglass razor back upgrade kit from wylie warbirds.

You swapmeetin tomorrow?
Edwin

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Yep, I plan on being there.

RWHorton

Gary not sure if this will help but here is a sorta of fuzzy picture of how mine works, I made the control horns, attached them to the inside of the elevator.

Ron

Ram360

My Feedback: (4)

I am having some issues mounting my retracts.  The Sierra's mount differently then Robart.  With the gear in the current location the wheel doesn't want to clear the LE, but I am affraid if I move it back any it will want to nose over when on the ground.  Any advice guys.  I am going to adjust the gear leg so it is shorter.  Going by the pics in the manual and plans the wheel looks to be about a 1/2" longer than the robart.

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

I did good at our swap meet this morning. I picked up 4 digital 5645's for $50, a Sears rotary tool with the case and accessories for $10, Spektrum Flight Logger for $5, and a whole box of nuts bolts and screws with storage cases for $15. In the box at the bottom was some gems, two new OS FS glow plugs, three Slimline fuel fillers and a whole handful of un-opened bags of Dubro hardware.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Does you wife knows about it?

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Oh Yeah, She was about as excited as I was.
All the planes there were way over priced. A lot of the sellers were trying to get what they had in them back, I'm not going to pay that kinda cash. There were foamies with 125.00 price tags, Crazy!
I didn't see too many guys carrying planes out the door.

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

How big is your tire Ram? Also, are those gear equipped with the shrink bar? I think you should be able to go back a little without cutting into the LE but I'm not sure as I have the Robart's.

Ram360

My Feedback: (4)

There 5" tires. I can move them back but will have to redo the mounting rails.