redbiscuits

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Merry Christmas to you all, The internet is pretty bad here in Mexico, so I'm not able to keep track of what you guys are discussing very well.

Hope everyone has a nice holiday and a safe New Years. See you in 2013.

oldtyme

So I'm sheeting the top forward part of the fuse and I think everything is going fine but I was sitting here tonight looking at it and the sheeting seems to have flat spots between the stringers. I did what the instructions said and sanded the stringers flush and in form with the formers and taped the sheeting all the way over but now it seems to have flat spots. Not huge flat spots but enough for me to notice.............comments?? Suggestions??

thanks,
Andy

Edwin

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Thats been called the starved horse effect. Mine is that way too. Others put in extra stringers. I'm just living with it this time. I tried a lot of putty but in the end, I gave up. I'm not doing extra detail on mine anyway. Just glass, paint, and fly. (When I get back to it.)
Edwin

thebeave

My Feedback: (1)

Got my new wheels in yesterday. They're alot skinnier than the wheels i already had, almost to skinny. I don't think that i'll have any trouble with getting them to go all the way up into the wheelwells. The landing gear should have no trouble locking at the top, as the wheels should go much further into the wing before touching. They're really nice looking wheels , just kinda skinny.

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

We need pictures for your wheels...... Heh heh
I also had flat spots here and there but I took my time with light weight spackling to round the top and bottom of my fuse as well as the wings.
The flat spot will be more noticeble once you paint the bird and by then to correct it you have to use a bunch of heavier filler.
Just take little extra time and fix it now that you can.
You'll be happy you did later on.

Happy new year to all.

Fabio

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with Fabio..

If you notice them now while it's naked and took the time to post about it, they will bother you later down the road... Like he said, take your time and some light weight filler and fix them before you glass.. A little trick.. Hold the plane under lower lighting then your normal shop light, it is very easy to see any problem areas....

Boy it's good to be done with Xmas, I love the holidays but they can have you running like crazy.. I also got my bad hot water tank replaced, so it's shop time...........I hope everyone is having a great holiday season...

Here is what I was talking about with my cockpit, it all just looks small to me.. I put a base coat on it and started fitting the parts, lots of work.. I am going to change it up a lot and build it on the bench so the whole thing just drops in.. Here are some pics, more of the before pics..
The thing that bothers me the most with this TF cockpit, why not make parts that fit the plane.. I makes no sense to me why you would make a cockpit kitfor your plane and makethem so far off, just don't see the thinking on this one... It is a cheap kitand that's what you get when you buy it, cheap...

Jimbo

redbiscuits

My Feedback: (6)

Jimbo,

I agree, something isn't right with your C/P Kit. That looks like the 60 size kit from the pictures. Are you absolutely sure that that is for the GS Jug?

On another note, I sure am starting to get bored here south of the border. I wonder if I could get the house sitter to start painting my plane while I'm gone?
I'm missing my garage...

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Gary,
I thought the same thing as I have the smaller P47 as well and I thought the cockpit I had was for that one, so i ordered the one for the GS and it's the same as the one I already had.. I crossed checked the numbers and it is suppose to be for the GS.. I wonder if it'spossible that I got two CP that are for the 60 size, I'm gonna look into it more before I do any more work on it..

Doomking

My Feedback: (38)

Measure the width of your seat and compare it to Gary.
From your pics its hard to imagine a GIjoe sitting in it.

thebeave

My Feedback: (1)

Mustang, ...... Im certainly no expert, but im sure that isn't the right cockpit kit. The one i've got was almost to big to fit inside the plane...... well, maybe not "too big" but i had to work at getting it to fit.

Zor

Just wondering if you guys have pictures of the cockpit and instrument panel of the full size airplane in order to know that these kits are scales of the full size.

Zor

oldtyme

Jim,

Here's the link for the smaller P47 cockpit kit at Tower p/n LXHZ05 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXHZ05&P=M
and here's the link for the giant scale P47 at Tower p/n LXSV10 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSV10&P=M

Hope that helps,
Andy

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Well I ordered the right one and they sent me the 1/7 size, I guess it's my goof for not checking that before I cut all the parts out and put a base coat of paint on them...

I will call the hobby shop tomorrow and get it taken care of...

Jimbo

RWHorton

Here is a couple of cockpit pics.

Ron

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Ron,
I am doing this tonight and had a question for you. How big of a gap do you leave on the root end of the flap to the wing as well as the gap between the flap and ail.?

Mine are tight right now so I will sand to allow for the 1/64 ply, but I also have to leave room for primer and paint.. I won't be wrapping the ends with glass, just sealing them for primer and paint so I don't have to allow room for the glass... I'm thinking a 1/16" gap before finishing will be enough and still give me a very tight gap.. What's your thoughts? I might end up using foil for the finish and from what I am told is very thin, so either way I should be good..

Jimbo

RWHorton

Jimbo here are a couple of pictures that might help. The gap between the aileron and the flap is .100". Thw gap between the flap and the root is .080". I wouldn't worrie to much about the gap on the flap and the root as that is covered by the wing filet. The gap between the aileron and the flap is another story. Even with the .100" gap I have a little interferance with the flap down about 1/2 and the aileron at full deflection. But since I don't fly on high rate I will not have any issue. The small P-47 is very responsive on the ailerons and I am sure this one will be also. Ron

Mustangman40

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Thanks Ron, I forgot about the fillet covering the root gap... I really like your idea with the 1/64 ply to cap them with.. I can see that helping with hanger rash down the road as well as a nice sharp tip... It also allows me to seal the ends with a coat or two of the EzeeKote I am using and not have to glass them, just primer and finish...

Jimbo

thebeave

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Here's the pictures of my new thinner wheels next to my original "bigger" wheels . I also threw in a gratuitous picture of my cockpit.

Zor

Thanks a lot Ron.
These pics are no doubt appreciated by the fellows building their model.

Zor

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Ron,
I see what you mean about the joint between the flap and ail, long as the flaps are fully deflected there is no problem.. But deflect them to half and have ail on high rates and you get an issue...

The only time I will be using the flaps is on landing and I always make sure I am on low rates for that. But even if I am on high rates, long as the flaps are at full deflection there is no problem... I don't think I have ever done a roll on final, not on purpose anyway...

RWHorton

This is the first time I put the 1/64 ply on the ends of the flying surfaces, Prior to covering the plane I notice no matter how hard I tried to have a sharp corner sanding I always dinged it or something. So I tried the 1.64 ply and after I put it on and soak it with ca it is like steel without the weight.

Jimbo they look good. The .100" gap I have on mine looks ok and if you notice there is a splitter between the flap and the aileron on the bottom of the wing, this takes up about 1/2 of the gap 1/2 way out. Here is a good pic of the flap and the hinges.

Ron

oldtyme

I love this thread!!! I have learned so much and gotten so much help......far more than in the warbirds threads. I have built lot of sport planes but this is my first scale and first giant so you guys are a wealth of info and help. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!

Andy

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Ron,
That's a great pic, thanks for posting that.. I ended up using 1/32 to cap mine, didn't have any 1/64, they came out great and thanks again for the tip, it's a great one... I took some pics of mine as I went in case anyone else wanted to do it to theirs, I will post them later on...


I just got back from flying, yes flying and outside to boot.. I went over to my buddies and flew my little F-86 saber, what a hoot!!!!!!! The last flights of 2012, I did some thinking and I didn't have one crash in 2012 and I flew a bunch this year.....

Happy New Year to everyone, may it be a safe and prosperous one for you all.........

oldtyme

By referring to putting the plywood at the edge of the flying surface, are you talking about the trailing edge of the wing by the aileron and flap and do you go past the end of the flying surface or are you just flush with it. Do you use wood filler to hide the fact that you have added thickness to the surface? Learning a little at a time............

Thanks,
Andy

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

Andy,
what we are talking about today is putting Ply caps on the ends of the flaps and ail. to give them a real nice corner and one that will not dent real easy... Here are some pics to help ya out... I already had the gap I wanted between them, so To add the ply cap I had to sand off the thickness of the ply I was using, in my case it's 1/32"..

In the pic you can see I tape off how much I need to take off, then just sand to the tape.. Don't skip the tape or a line, real easy to sand a curve into this because your ribs are harder then the skin, take your time with it.... You can see in the one pic how much nicer the corner is next to the one I didn't do yet, nice and sharp...


I got some pics of how I do the scale hinge line that you are talking about, I made a little tool to sand the sheeting so the ply sits down flush with the sheeting and yes, the ply does go past the trailing edge of the wing to form a pocket.. Then you round over the control surface instead of the "V" taper... Are you thinking of doing that type of hinge joint?

Jimbo