John_M_

srtelemaster150, you're at the same place I was about 6 months ago... its not really the fault of the manufacture, its the result of strict environmental control over paints and thinners... the light lemon color of the cub yellow solartex is partly due to the transparency... I did a test using cub yellow solartex with 3 coats of the KlassKote epoxy paint and it improved the opacity quite a bit, but not 100% opaque (close to the real thing); more opaque than the 21st century cub yellow fabric... the only draw back with the KlassKote it's not cheap; it does brush on nicely with no brush marks, that's why I'm using it, I have nowhere to spray a large model, nor the equipment.

You can also try using rust-oleum spray paints over solartex with good results... TomCrump over on RCGroups swears by it, and has some excellent examples... he uses the natural solartex and paints it with the rust-oleum rattle cans; claims its fuel proof as well... he's very knowledgeable and willing to help.





John M,

acdii

Rustoleum is fuel proof, but weighs a bit more than dope. I painted a Chipmunk with it and and fuel doesn't hurt the paint at all, but Dope sure does! LOL I still haven't figured out how to repair the fabric on it without damaging the paint.

bigbird3

Sr. Telemaster, I covered my Pawnee with natural solartex and painted it with Rustoleum 'rattle can' for about four or five bucks a can! It sticks good and is fuel proof too! Really does a nice job with the new tips on the cans. Also, I have found that if you store your paint cans laying down instead of standing up, they seem to do better the next time you use them. Go figure! FTI One thing, if you get outside of the thirty minute re-spray time, you MUST wait 24 or more hours before you shoot it again or it will crackle as if you did the lacquer and enamel mistake! It says 48 hours but 24 works well.
bird.

SrTelemaster150

Well, I'm already committed to the Cub Yellow Solartex so as I stated earlier. I'm going to cover 1 side of both elevator halves W/the CY Solartex & spray 1 W/alight coat of Cub Yellow Lusterkote for comparison.

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Question: do you need to sand the solartex prior to painting? I know it is good to wipe off any oils but wasn't sure if you need to rough it up or not.

Thanks

Keith

cubcrasher

My Feedback: (6)

Sr,
Be careful with the Lusterkote. It works well on small items like cowls and landing gear, but on big items like wings it sucks.
Too muck spitten and spattering.

John_M_

Don't sand it Corsair2013, you'll damage the fabric... I used rubbing alcohol with a soft brush and just scrub the surface with the rubbing alcohol... wipe it down with a soft lint free cloth or paper towel, let it dry thoroughly... then apply your paint... I haven't tried denatured alcohol, or acetone, they maybe to harsh and lift the seams, so if you plan on using any of those be CAREFUL and test it on some scraps first... the rubbing alcohol worked just fine for me, and the KlassKote stuck extremely well to the colored solartex; wouldn't lift with tape applied and pull hard.



John M,

bigbird3

[QUOTE=John_M_;11865313]Don't sand it Corsair2013, you'll damage the fabric... I used rubbing alcohol with a soft brush and just scrub the surface with the rubbing alcohol... wipe it down with a soft lint free cloth or paper towel, let it dry thoroughly... then apply your paint... I haven't tried denatured alcohol, or acetone, they maybe to harsh and lift the seams, so if you plan on using any of those be CAREFUL and test it on some scraps first... the rubbing alcohol worked just fine for me, and the KlassCote stuck extremely well to the colored solartex; wouldn't lift with tape applied and pull hard.


John M, I have used MEK, (methel-ethel-keytones) for those not familiar with the acronym, on Solartex and it didn't hurt anything even the seems! Of course you don't want to spend much time on the seems but it will take a good washing. I removed the lightning stripe on both sides of the cub in my Gallery, TWICE! and didn't hurt it. I finally had the vinyl graffics place cut a stripe. As I have posted before, for those who have not read it, use gloves when using MEK because it is a 'compounding poison' meaning that it will build up in your body to toxisity and then you are sick or dead. I think that is what many emron painters died from!
As far as the rubbing alcohol, it works good but wont remove any pencil or ink marks like MEK. I prefere 70 or 90 percent alcohol just because it has very little water in it. I use it especially in epoxy thinning, The regular isopropal is great for getting fuel off of the plane, wipe off the gook and use the alcohol to finish cleaning. Alcohol cuts alcohol.
Also, if you use rustoleum that needs to be put in a sprayer out of a can, use acetone to cut it. One of the most beautiful finishes I've ever seen for a simple all around paint!
bird.

John_M_

That's good to know Bird... I didn't know wheather other solvents were compatible and just didn't want to give out some bad advice and have it ruin their project... for removing oils from your fingers off the covering, the rubbing / isopropal alcohol works without the chance of lifting the seams.


When I first covered my cub in 21st century fabric, I masked off the lightening bolt and tried my hand at spray painting it with the 21st century Black spray paint... that paint sucked so bad, I ended up removing it with acetone... I was surprised it came off without damaging the cub yellow paint coating on the 21st fabric... I ended up making a masonite template of the lightening bolt and then cutting it out of some black monokote and ironing it on; which came out better looking than paint (if you ask me that is)... that's one area I'm no good at, and that's painting, but surprising how easily that klasskote is to push around with a brush, that's way I went with that stuff, it works with my Ogre hands... I understand that Nelsons paint works similar, as long as you use the "cross linker" ... it brushes on to a sprayed finish as well, but I had already purchased the Klasskote; will have to try it on the next project.

Our local home dept / lowe's, never carry a good stock of colors in the rust-o-leum... they tell me I have to order online for the color spray paints I need, so I never tried the rust-o-leum on solartex, but I have used it on other projects and it does take some time to dry, and it needs to be thoroughly dry before fuel / gas and oil gets on it... I miss the old Krylon paints !!.


John M,

bigbird3

John, I have tried MEK on most plastic coverings and it didn't hurt them. That is except for the ABS they use to use on ARFs which I haven't seen for many years now. The Rustoleum from a can, not spray can, as I said can be cut with acetone and brushed on to a sprayed finish. Never seen anything like it! I miss the old perfect paint too. I been doing more painting now-a-days because it has become so much better. Rustoleum has a Catapillar color that is just a bit deeper than cub yellow but if you paint the entire plane, it sure is a lot easier to match the fiberglass and plastic parts with color! They have a new primer that is double thick and lays a nice base that doesnt need to be sanded and will hide minor scratches that would otherwise have to be sanded. They also have a primer for prepping metal, even aluminum! Neat! No more etching!
bird.

acdii

The only thing I didn't like about the rustoleum was the dry time. It also adds more weight than I would like. One other thing to note, the white turns yellow after a few weeks. Dont know why but noticed it when I painted the cowl weeks after doing the fuse. The white on the cowl was bright while the fuse was tinged yellow. Now it all matches. I also thinned using acetone. I will be doing my Corsair with Latex and topping it with clear Klass Kote. Will be interesting to see how that comes out, it will be powered by a 20CC gasser, so no worries about glow fuel.

John_M_

acdii, that klasskote epoxy is glow fuel and gasoline proof (or resistant)... basically its the same as the old K&B epoxy paints (another dear miss of mine)... I use to use the clear K&B to fuel proof firewalls and inside around where the fuel tank is installed, or in any area that maybe exposed to the fuel / oil residue... you should be well protected.

I'd like to see that Corsair when its finished.


John M,

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks guys. I use denatured alcohol on most plus acetone or MEK if it needs it.

My Solartex should be here today so tonight and tomorrow will be covering. I treated everything with Balsarite so I should get good adhesion. The fabric is Olive Drab so I may not need to paint anything. They were out of neutral so I went ahead with the Olive Drab this time. I figured I can always paint over it if I don't like the color.

I always spray a coat of water based polyurethane over the plane after everything is done. I found a new brand that has UV protection in it so I will see how it works.


Keith

bigbird3

Polyurethane is amber so it will yellow anything painted by it especially white! As far as using balsa rite, if you paint EVERYTHING!, it makes it difficult to cover. Here is why, you have to be careful not to heat all of the area when sealing it. Like on a slab sides or sheeted areas, don't iron from the middle it will stick and never stretch! In fact, I'm not sure it will stretch fully when you try to heat gun it, before it sticks. Balsa rite is great stuff but it is not necessary to use it on everything. It was developed in the first place for the first coverite that didn't have stickie on the back of it. Then they developed the film formula. You can sand it down after it dries and minimize the grip while covering. It's your choice! I use balsa rite to fuel proof or to inhance fuel soaked areas. The other way to de-fuel an area is to blend some kitty litter into a powder and put it on the area, leave for a day then brush off the wet powder and repeat till it is light grey and not wet anymore. Use dryer fabric softener sheets, used, and thin CA them to the affected area and sand a bit and cover. I know it's more than you asked for but I'm full of it! HUM!
bird.

SrTelemaster150

This morning I coverd the bottom of both elevator halves W/the Cub Yellow Solartex.

In late afternoon, after the humidity dropped a bit, I gave 1 of them 2 light coats of Cub Yellow Lusterkote

The results were quite pleasing. It didn't do much for the translucency, but it brought out some of the orangish hue of the Cub Yellow. I didn't think there was a change to the hue until brought it into the house & laid it next to the unpainted half.

It didn't change the texture or sheen of the Solartex either. I was planning on sealing the surface W/fiat clear Lusterkote anyway. I'll just give the entire airframe a few coats of the Cub Yellow Lustkote instead.

I think the porous nature of the Solartex aids in paint adhesion so there doesn't seem to be a need for extensive surface prep. I did not do anything to the fresh newly applied surface but give it a wipe W/a cloth. The lacquer based Lusterkote seems to have penetrated well.

John_M_

Sound good SrTelemaster150... That lusterkote is similar to the 21st century paint where it suffers with the same pigment issues of the solartex, the paint itself has some transparency to it... so you'll need several coats before it will have an affect on the over all transparency of the solartex... and the more coats you apply, the more it will fill in the weave of the fabric, which is not a bad thing, unless you like to have that fabric texture stand out... to me, it looks more realistic if the weave is filled in a bit.

Post some pic's when its done.




Hey Bird that's a clever trick with the kitty litter and dryer sheets.


I like the Sig stix-it... we use to use diluted aliphatic glue brushed over the airframe and then lightly sanded after it dried... it really improved the adhesion of the iron on coverings.


John M,

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

Wow, that is a lot of information in a short amount of post.

SO, let me get this straight - I take the dryer sheets, used, grind up so Kitty Litter, soak the Kitty Litter in MEK, let that dry then place the powder into the dryer sheets, roll them up tight, CA them closed...................................

bigbird3

Sr. Tele, One thing I learned when using rattle can paint is to watch the application thru the glare of what ever light you have. You will see any missed areas that will give a blushed look. Be sure and keep the 'wet' going till you are done. Don't be in a hurry or there will be blotches all over the place! The light glare is a sure way to make sure it covers good. First coats aren't as critical but the last one is. My Pawnee took about twelve or fourteen cans of Rustoleum but turned out very nice. Patience it the key my friend!
bird.

Thanks John M, I have used the Kitty Litter for many many years. One time I actually recovered a solid balsa aileron where the fuel really soaked the torque rod hole. Back in the days of straight exhaust and no deflection!I took a drill bit the same size as the hole and tamped the powder in and buried the soaked area in a pile. Then when ready I drilled the powder out and repeated till all powder was light grey. I took a cheetos can and stuck a fuse nose up to the wing L.E. bulkhead and poured the powder in burying it and just 'thumped' the powder off and brushed the wet stuff off and repeated. The Monocote stuck nicely. If you don't have the dryer sheets, thin CA the affected area and sand and maybe repeat and sand. It will build a new surface nicely If you do have dryer sheets or even fiber glass, lightly stray it with 3-M 77 or any other type and apply the sheet. This will let you smooth it out and then apply the thin CA. It will not inhibit the CA at all and there will be no bubbles or ridges unless you put one in there! I do the same process on wing center sections when putting the fiber glass on. I use medium CA and use a neatly folded up paper towel as an applicator. Just put a lot of Medium CA on and spread. Watch out for fumes, it'll have you choking! When you finish one side spray a little kicker, get a new applicator and do the other side. As I said, no bubbles! Sand and fill with spackle and feather edges and it almost disappears!
bird.

bigbird3

Corsair, run that by me again but in english this time! hehe! I'm not sure what I said to make you say that in such a way! Whatchu sayn? For a second I thought you were going to roll it and smoke it! Whew! Just make sure 'Kitty' hasn't been in the litter first! UGGGG!

John_M_

Wow, that's the best miss understanding I've ever read lol... But I think you got the Crackheads attention... what the hell are you making, sounds more like a drug lab

Oh I'm very aware of the CA fumes bird, you remember the "Hot Stuff" brand CA, that stuff was "spontaneous combustion" in a bottle... I used it to soak hardwood landing gear mounting blocks and the surrounding balsa in hot stuff to prevent oil from wicking under the covering... and then set the gear, or anything that penetrates the covering, like tail wheel mounts, etc in clear silicone sealer.... prevention is the key, but oil always find its way in... I had a 1/2A airtronics QTee that I learned to fly on... that thing was so oil soaked after the many mishaps, it must of weighed 2 pounds, and you could probably wring the oil out of the balsa wood with your bare hands... but the funny thing bird it flew great!



John M,

bigbird3

Wow John, I haven't heard Q-T in ages! Of course, anything you used an 049 on would be fuel soaked. You couldn't help it! That was a neat little plane. It would be a great electric project now. It would also make a great inlarged plane to a forty size. I think of 1976 when I think of that! remember EK Logictrol and the 'brick'? Neat idea at the time. I had one. Still have an old transmitter. Red! You know! I know you do.
I do remember Hot Stuff. Terrible stuff but inovative! Some guys thought they'd build a control line project on a week end and fly it till it flew apart because it was built with the stuff. Well, it didn't fly apart but kept on going! They, and we were hooked on CA from then on. What a ride it has been! aye?
bird.

John_M_

Oh do I remember the EK Logictrol with the brick !... wow that takes me back to the beginning... it certainly has come a long way.

My 1/4 scale sig piper cub was built entirely with CA except for the music wire window stays, they were set in epoxy.

The story I was told about Hot stuff, was that it came from the military and was used on the front line as basically liquid stitches... but I don't know the validity of that story, but it does work well on prop cuts, ask me how I know, lol


John M,

Corsair2013

My Feedback: (2)

I thought Big Bird was giving me the recipe for either a new form of crack or a new "male enhancement" formula...............LOL

The dryer sheets confused me so I thought he meant roll em up and smoke em..........!!!

Anyway - I have the Solaretex - OH it is so easy to use compared to the "other brands". It goes around the corners and seals really nice.

I am taking my time and you can't see the seams or overlap anywhere -so far. The balserite isn't causing any problems on the flat surfaces so I must have put it on thin enough. The only problem I see is that I think the film will be on there forever now..............

Keith

John_M_

LoL, "Rock Hard", daaam!

Yeah that solartex goes on nice... I used 21st century fabric first time round, I thought that went on nice, but the solartex sticks even better.



This is when it was covered in 21century almost 15 years ago... so sometime in the next 15 years I should have it recovered lol

acerc

FYI! As much as Solartex is easier than 21st Century, raw fabric is twice as easy as Solartex. Just sayin..........