FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

B ird,

I have seen recovery shutes on Ultralight a few larger aircraft and in the case of a high wing aircraft they were all mounted on top the wing center in a nice tight unit. Not the prettiest of designs but if you need to use it, it's gorgeous!

John_M_

Thanks Cub Man... I have the new site bookmarked already, but couldn't find all the detailed info for the tail braces like you had on the old link... so a quick search on google brought up the old site... maybe you can bring over the images for the "Tail Braces" from the old site to thecubden,org... the old tail brace page has some good info and details.


Oh, I don't think it would take up that much room.... a lightweight nylon chute capable of handling a 20 lb plane wouldn't be that big; just big enough to bring the plane down slow enough so it doesn't get damaged... you may have seen those nylon lightweight "Dress suits in a tin" that are available for the frequent traveler; the entire suit fits inside a box no bigger than a pak of cigarettes... I have actually seen someone wearing one; its not something you catch me wearing, lol, but for a emergency, where a dress suit is required, well there you go............. anyways, the point I'm making, is a lightweight chute could be stowed in a small tube anchored at the CG... I wouldn't use a ballistic charge to deploy it; I think that would be more trouble than its worth on a model... could even use a model rocket dry fuel engine to push it out, but again, you're adding another risk of fire and other damage if it doesn't work properly... what I'd probably use, is a modified trigger mechanism and a Co2 cartridge from a pellet gun and blow the chute out the tube... wouldn't take much.


John M,

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

John M this should be the link for tail brace http://thecubden.org/how-to-articles/tail-brace-101
I had updated an app for my site and it had blocked some photos from loading, but that should all be fixed. I also was able to get into the old geocity site and now have changed every page to redirect you to the new site. Had no clue that someone took them over.

box car

I think I would go with a back up radio, turn A off turn B on. The B radio could be a low cost 4 or 5 channel just to get you back on the ground.

John_M_

That's it !... good bit of info, Thanks... I have actually built my J3's tail Braces based on that info, but I made the threaded part functional like the real braces, jam nut and all... I just need to file some flats on the threaded section so it can be turned with a pair of pliers or small wrench... i used 2-56 all thread rod and filled in all the threads except about 1" inch on each end with a lite filler and silver paint... they came out nice, I just hope they hold up to the engine vibration.


That's another option, but if the backup radio is a 2.4 ghz radio, then you have a bit of a delay waiting for it to link... maybe use an older style 72mhz FM radio as the back up... but like Bird has mentioned, reliability is improving... its just a horrible feeling watching your plane go down and can't do anything about it.... when I was a teenager, I had a tuning coil crack from engine vibration on a old AM narrow band radio receiver... was that a pisser watching that come down.

John M,

SrTelemaster150

Can anyone post the actual full scale dimensions from the fuselage on the horizontal & vertical stabilizers where the tail braces attach?

I'm working on a 1/5scale J-3.

bigbird3

I don't know about anyone else 150 but I just eye ball it. After all, it's just a 1/5th scale and no one is going to put a ruler to it! Besides, if they do, kickem' in the rump!
bird.

acerc

Go to http://www.airliners.net/ type in the cub and you can see where and even take some measurements from the screen.
I just took this one, shows real well where the wires attach in relation to the ribs.

John_M_

Got your kicking boots on Bird, lol....

The horizontal stab tail brace location from the center-line of the fuse out to the center of each hole is 35.8" inches, or 1/5th of that is 8.95"

On the vertical fin, the holes are located 5 1/2" down from the top of the Fin, 1/5 of that would be 1 3/8" inches down.



But if you're building the Sig model, their placement of the various bits and pieces, like the landing gear, wing strut mount brackets, etc... they are pretty much spot on; at least their 1/4 scale cub is.




John M,

SrTelemaster150

I'm bashing a Wings Maker 1/5 J-3Cub ARF. I have stripped the covering & I'm going to cover it W/Solartex. I have replaced the tailwheel W/a more scale looking SIG leaf spring unit & the wheels W/Dubro 3 3/8" Cub wheels. I'm also looking to improve the windshield area W/bracing & scale detail @ the top of the windshield.

There are no references to locating the tail braces in the instructions. Since I'm doing as much ad I can to make the ARF look more scale, I wanted to locate the tail braces as near to the original as possible.

For the price I paid for the ARF, $179 shipped, (2 years ago) I can afford to spend a little to improve the looks.

The Saito FA-91S tucked nicely into the cowl W/only some small oval shaped cut-outs to clear the rocker boxes. The standard 2" X 2 1/2" cut out @ the rear bottom of the cowl for adequate cooling allows the stock muffler plenty of room when I employed a 90° adaptor.

I'd really like to stuff an FA-115 in there. It's only 1mm taller & 1mm longer behind the mount. It has the same mount footprint as the FA91S & make about 33% more power.

It would be nice to have reserve thrust for vertical play.

stevegauth30

I like that, " vertical play."

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

Guys I have a new way I did the braces on my L-4 that is more scale then the above link. I will try to get a page up with that info on it.

SrTelemaster150

I want to add one of these poking out of the sides of the cowl.

http://www.topnotchkits.com/index_files/TN_Kit11.htm

Here's the assembly manual. Looks pretty slick to me. It ought to add a lot if realism even if the plane isn't scale masters caliber.

http://www.topnotchkits.com/index_fi...bly_Manual.pdf

acerc

Those are the best.

bigbird3

Yessir John boy! hehe! You know, when they start picking your plane apart, you know that you are starting to get pretty good and they really try to find something wrong with it. I usually leave something for them to 'prey' on to make them feel good about themselves. Oh well, you could call it jealous envy, aye? They don't realize that I'm the only one that I'm competing with and could care less what they think!
I flew the Pawnee this weekend and it flew very nicely. The Quadra 52 is in the high range of scale like power. THERE IS NO VERTICAL PLAYING! I will try to post some finished photos of it in my gallery.
bird.

John_M_

Well just keep in mind, in order for those scale dimensions to work properly, the length and height of the horizontal / vertical stabilizers need to be in scale... I'm in the process of adding some scale detail to a 1/4 Sig Cub... sometimes you have to fudge it (refereed to as an artistic license) to make it look right... unless you build an "exact" scale replica, would exact scale dimensions look right... I wouldn't worry about cutting hairs, unless you were going to enter it in a scale competition.


Post some pic's when you get her done; sounds like its going to be nice when its finished.




John M,

SrTelemaster150

Thats kinda why I'm looking for full scale dimensions so I can figure out the ratios to fudge whatever I have to.

I'm not looking to "cut hairs" as the model won't be exact scale by any stretch. I just want to simulate an over all realistic look.

Once I get my laptop back up I can start posting PIX. I can't even access my photobucket account on this iPad.

John_M_

lol, yeah sometimes one can be too hard oneself when competing with oneself... did that make any sense ... I don't know who's got it together more, me, myself, or I... I know "I" has had many of arguments with "myself", and "me" has had to straighten them out on several occasions... this all went well, until one day "I" was caught talking to "myself", and my inlaw looked at "me" and said "who you talking too" lol... now I have a mirror hanging on the wall so I know to whom I'm talking too .


Regarding the Pawnee, sounds nice... 52cc's and not even a smidgeon of a extra something to get you out of trouble with?





John M,

bigbird3

You know Big John, that makes a lot of sense, which scares me a little!

One thing I did just a few minutes ago was delete my profile photo in hopes of updating it with the Pawnee but I can't seem to get it done. Help please if you know how?
bird.

John_M_

I just luv the color scheme acerc... looks great!


Click on "Settings" At the top of the page.... then when the setting page loads, look to your left under "My Settings"... you should see "Edit Avatar"... click on that and follow the instructions ... Note: The maximum size of your custom image for your Avatar is 80 by 80 pixels or 19.5 KB (whichever is smaller).

The "avatar image" is the image everyone will see... the Profile Picture you will only see when one clicks on your "username" to view your profile... if that's what you want, then go back to "settings" and then to the left choose "Edit Profile Picture" and follow the instruction...Note: The maximum size of your custom image for your profile image is 100 by 100 pixels or 64.0 KB (whichever is smaller).


***EDIT***

Also Bird, if you just want to add photo's to your image gallery... click on "My Gallery" to the left of any one of "Your" forum posts... then just start uploading images to your image gallery by clicking on "Add New Photo" at the bottom right when viewing the Gallery Tab.


John M,

John_M_

This is how I did my tail braces... still some clean up work to do, and add the flats to the threaded collets, and then fill the all thread with the filler / paint... I used 1/4 x 0.032 brass strap... 0.015 my have been a better choice, but it seemed a bit flimsy... the threaded collets I turned on my micro lathe out of some 6061-t6 aluminum rod and threaded it with a 2/56 tap.






John M,

bigbird3

Thanks John, I will give that a try on the avitar. Also, have you flown the cub with that bracing yet? If you have a four stroke or gasser for power, it will shake it quite a bit. Nuts on the threaded part are good and necessary not for securing the wire from turning but to wedge the threads as not to move. They will vibrate apart eventually without the nuts. The brass is soft too and might aught to have a nut inside the clip on each end. That is a nice rendition of the full size part. Too bad you couldn't have made it from some really hard steel but the part is so small and the bends are so tight it might be impossible without a machine. But then again, it can be done! Very nice work.
bird.

SrTelemaster150

I have been using rubber well nuts for years on big block Saito singles W/great results. One just drills out the holes where "T" nuts would used, inserts the well nuts & tightens them down for the desired elasticity. I use an appropriate sized washer to protect the rubber from ragged edges on the back of the firewall & nylock nuts to lock the bolts down. Well nuts are available in all common thread pitches, are available @ any well stocked hardware store & they are inexpensive.

They can can be tightened down for nearly no elasticity or you can leave as much as you want. They are commonly used on snowmobiles, motorcycles & even OEM automotive applications where a leak proof connection is desired like luggage racks.

They save a lot of wear & tear on the airframe & electronic components.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Rubber Well Nuts, I may have to look for those on my next trip to Ace Hardware.

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

Guys I just threw a new page online http://thecubden.org/tail-brace-102 This is how I did the tail brace on my L-4