***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
01-14-2016, 03:01 PM
#3802
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: matthews,
NC
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Hello all i finally have time to work on my Cub i am mounting my engine its a Saito 100 what do you guys think of the spacing of the prop washer is it to far out appearence wise or does it look good?
01-14-2016, 09:58 PM
#3805
My Feedback: (1)
p3arljam, It depends on what brand and style spinner you intend to use. If you are going with a spinner with a flat back plate or a spinner nut like acdii is using, then yes you need to reduce the amount of prop drive washer that is visible. However, if you are using a spinner with a recessed back plate (like most plastic Du-bro spinners), then some of that exposed drive washer will be covered by the back plate. I try to leave at least 1/16" between the front of the cowl and the back of the spinner or back of the prop if no spinner back plate is there.
01-15-2016, 06:32 AM
#3807
Join Date: Aug 2006
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Spinner nut = yes
Spinner = ?? (OK, maybe some supper cub variation)
I can see how the idea gets out there - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFBMG&P=ML
Spinner = ?? (OK, maybe some supper cub variation)
I can see how the idea gets out there - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXFBMG&P=ML
01-15-2016, 10:12 AM
#3809
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Williamstown,
VT
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So anyway, go to your local vinyl cutters or even a copy place and look through their fonts and pick one close. No one will notice. Hope this helps.
bird.
01-15-2016, 10:24 AM
#3810
murphy, just did a bunch of looking on the Internet to no avail on fab 45 and found nothing to help. I called a grafic lettering company that does aircraft lettering, they said one of the fonts is called 'bold arial'. They said they could email me the name of the vintage font name first of next week....AGH!
So anyway, go to your local vinyl cutters or even a copy place and look through their fonts and pick one close. No one will notice. Hope this helps.
bird.
So anyway, go to your local vinyl cutters or even a copy place and look through their fonts and pick one close. No one will notice. Hope this helps.
bird.
http://www.dafont.com/amarillo-usaf.font
Last edited by FlyerInOKC; 01-15-2016 at 10:28 AM.
01-15-2016, 01:57 PM
#3812
My Feedback: (1)
It seems that most Super Cubs use an actual spinner and J-3's look right with a spinner nut. The current Hanger-9 1/4 scale Super Cub, 68" E- flite Super Cub and their new 15cc Carbon Cub all have a regular spinner not a spinner nut. I am currently putting together a 90" Phoenix Super Cub and it will get either a 2 1/4" alum. or a 2 1/4" white plastic spinner. All my J-3s have an alum. spinner nut. Use what you like and what works with your electric starter if you use one. If your engine is a 4 stroke glo, either do a double nut like acdii did or use a good amount of locktite on the spinner nut threads.
01-15-2016, 02:23 PM
#3813
Yep, lightweight anodized aluminum.
p3arljam, my carb is about 1/16th" from the firewall, as you can see the needle is on the left of the engine so the throttle link is centered on the FW. I used the cable and tube that comes with the kit, but it you dont have one, use a throttle cable kit from the LHS to hook up the carb. I also used a fueling probe under the cowl, so its a 2 line tank, that other fuel line comes from the breather, it used to run under the cowl and exit underneath, but made one heck of a mess, so I stuck it out the side with the muffle, much less mess. I plan to make a scavenge pipe and have it exit at the exhaust opening to keep it as far from the plane as possible.
That Cub has zero deadweight in it. I balanced it before mounting the radio and battery, and used those to shift the weight around until I got it balanced. Flies great with that 100.
p3arljam, my carb is about 1/16th" from the firewall, as you can see the needle is on the left of the engine so the throttle link is centered on the FW. I used the cable and tube that comes with the kit, but it you dont have one, use a throttle cable kit from the LHS to hook up the carb. I also used a fueling probe under the cowl, so its a 2 line tank, that other fuel line comes from the breather, it used to run under the cowl and exit underneath, but made one heck of a mess, so I stuck it out the side with the muffle, much less mess. I plan to make a scavenge pipe and have it exit at the exhaust opening to keep it as far from the plane as possible.
That Cub has zero deadweight in it. I balanced it before mounting the radio and battery, and used those to shift the weight around until I got it balanced. Flies great with that 100.
01-18-2016, 08:07 AM
#3814
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Guilderland, NY
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Okay ... this is a rather random question, but I'm really curious to know: on L-4 Grasshopper Cubs in service
during WWII, oftentimes one sees (on the sides of the fuselage) a single Roman letter such as "J," and
a two-digit number, such as "44." The number "44" seems (I am guessing here) to indicate the fiscal year in which the plane was ordered
by the U.S. military. Correct? If so, the "44" would indicate a plane that was ordered between 1 July 1943 and 30 June
1944. Correct? If I am wrong here, then what does "44" indicate? What I really don't understand is the "J." I'm
pretty sure this does not indicate the "J" in "J-3" Cub. So what, then, would "J" indicate? I have seen photos of some WW II
L-4s with Roman letter "C" on fuse and others with "G" on the fuse, which seem (?) to indicate "Canada" and "Great Britain." Does this mean
that "J" was used to indicate a U.S. L-4? Any help and guidance on this would be much appreciated. Thanks.
during WWII, oftentimes one sees (on the sides of the fuselage) a single Roman letter such as "J," and
a two-digit number, such as "44." The number "44" seems (I am guessing here) to indicate the fiscal year in which the plane was ordered
by the U.S. military. Correct? If so, the "44" would indicate a plane that was ordered between 1 July 1943 and 30 June
1944. Correct? If I am wrong here, then what does "44" indicate? What I really don't understand is the "J." I'm
pretty sure this does not indicate the "J" in "J-3" Cub. So what, then, would "J" indicate? I have seen photos of some WW II
L-4s with Roman letter "C" on fuse and others with "G" on the fuse, which seem (?) to indicate "Canada" and "Great Britain." Does this mean
that "J" was used to indicate a U.S. L-4? Any help and guidance on this would be much appreciated. Thanks.
01-18-2016, 08:16 AM
#3815
Wikpedia does not list us (Canada) as a miltary operator of the L-4 and I do not ever recall any personally. There may have been some sold post war to Canadians as personal aircraft which would give them a Canadian registation number in letters starting with a C. ie C-Fxxx, CF-xxx, C-Gxxx, CG-xxx and now with advanced ultralights and sport aircraft one could be registered as C-Ixxx.
01-23-2016, 02:59 AM
#3817
Senior Member
Hey fellas,
I want to put another kit aside for my son, just wondering what is the nicest flier, I'll end up building it, not fussed about how hard the build is, just looking for the best flying qualities.
1/6 to 1/4 scale considered.
I'm familiar with all the BUSA kits, so leaning toward their 1/4, but the sig 71" is a handy size.
I want to put another kit aside for my son, just wondering what is the nicest flier, I'll end up building it, not fussed about how hard the build is, just looking for the best flying qualities.
1/6 to 1/4 scale considered.
I'm familiar with all the BUSA kits, so leaning toward their 1/4, but the sig 71" is a handy size.
01-23-2016, 11:19 AM
#3818
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: matthews,
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Thanks for all the information so far. My Cub is all set and I have one last question. I have never used aileron differential would you guys suggest i set that up before the maiden flight or wait until after? It is a 90"great planes Cub with a Saito 100 and I am using a Spektrum DX9.Any info would be helpful.
01-23-2016, 11:49 AM
#3819
Hey fellas,
I want to put another kit aside for my son, just wondering what is the nicest flier, I'll end up building it, not fussed about how hard the build is, just looking for the best flying qualities.
1/6 to 1/4 scale considered.
I'm familiar with all the BUSA kits, so leaning toward their 1/4, but the sig 71" is a handy size.
I want to put another kit aside for my son, just wondering what is the nicest flier, I'll end up building it, not fussed about how hard the build is, just looking for the best flying qualities.
1/6 to 1/4 scale considered.
I'm familiar with all the BUSA kits, so leaning toward their 1/4, but the sig 71" is a handy size.
The SIG 1/5th scale Cub is a really good, easy to assemble kit, and a very nice flyer. If you do get one, my only suggestion is to beef up the cabin top where the wings attach. The plywood is only 3 ply and a hard landing with a slightly off wing mount could snap it. On mine I had a bit of covering put stress on that piece and my first landing was a bit hard and I hear it snap when it landed. I just added some 5 ply inside with epoxy and that solved this one weak area. It builds very light so a small 50-60 4 stroke will fly it very scale like, and it likes to fly. Fully built with a Saito 100 on mine it is under 7 pounds with a full tank. I used Koverall and dope, so with Ultracoat it can be even lighter. I would call it a Skill Level 2 kit, would not be good for a first time builder, but if you have at least built one kit before(not an arf but a real box of wood kit), then this would make for a good second kit.
02-06-2016, 08:04 AM
#3821
Looky at what I just found...one of the rarest pieces one can come by... one of our club members handed me this while chatting about piper cubs, he apparently bought it way back before Jerry's partner passed... he had no plans on ever using it, (he's more into the giant scale 3D stuff now), so he sold it to me for $75 bucks; no springs, but I can take care of that... after looking it over, its not really a scale scott's 2000 / 3-24B tailwheel, but looks more like maybe a scale Lang tailwheel... none the less it will do just fine for the H9 super cub... for the J3 I'm going to attempt to do a scott 2000 headstock and trailing arm using the lost wax casting method.
John M,
John M,
02-06-2016, 10:11 AM
#3823
John
The tail wheel looks great. I have been hoping and searching to find one for my Busa 1/3 cub build but with no luck as all know. I will just have to machine one from scratch. This will be the last piece I need for my scale build.
The tail wheel looks great. I have been hoping and searching to find one for my Busa 1/3 cub build but with no luck as all know. I will just have to machine one from scratch. This will be the last piece I need for my scale build.
02-06-2016, 11:03 AM
#3824
Machining one shouldn't be too difficult panhandler, especially at 1/3 scale... the headstock not so bad, but the trailing arm may take some time... I have someone 3D scanning a scott 2000 headstock and trailing arm, then hes going to scale it down and print it out in wax, so I can do a lost wax casting; I did quite a bit of lost wax work back in my early days with jewelry / broaches... once I get the wax patterns, I'll make whatever changes that need to be made to make it work at that size and see how it goes... I'm getting several copies of the wax patterns, so I'll make a master pattern first, then refine it, and then cast the final parts.
BTW... the last time I contacted Jerry, he had the 1/3 scale tailwheels in stock, but needed to make some parts for the 1/4 scale... that was just after his best friend / business partner had passed, so I didn't pressure him on when they would be available... since then there has been rumored, he was going to make them more readily available via the web, but that may be just an old wives tale.
John M,
BTW... the last time I contacted Jerry, he had the 1/3 scale tailwheels in stock, but needed to make some parts for the 1/4 scale... that was just after his best friend / business partner had passed, so I didn't pressure him on when they would be available... since then there has been rumored, he was going to make them more readily available via the web, but that may be just an old wives tale.
John M,
02-06-2016, 11:20 AM
#3825
I agree the horn would mostly be done with a lot of file work and sanding after machining the basic shape. If you have more info on Jerry please pass on. Also if you plan on making wax patterns then count me in. My only prob is the cub is just about ready for the paint shop but I can always add the tail wheel at a later date.
Dan
Dan