52larry52

My Feedback: (1)

Well, it's a lovely day in the neighborhood today! West Georgia got a break from the little cold snap of the past few days with the temp in Villa Rica reaching almost 60 degrees this afternoon. Just right for test running an engine outside the shop. Oh yes, the antique O.S. 1.20 four stroke is officially off the "boat anchor" list....IT RUNS ! I found that the exhaust valve was stuck open due to a slightly stuck pushrod. A little heat and WD-40 followed by after run oil got everything moving. I then bolted it in the new large size test stand, filled the fuel tank and hit it with the elec. starter and it made noise, good noise, it was running and quickly filled the shop (hadn't gone outside with it yet) with smoke, quickly followed by every smoke alarm in the house going off. The wife and the dog upstairs were not happy.....but I was! It took a few minutes but I got the smoke cleared and the alarm to shut up and moved the engine operation outside to the driveway. I changed to a better glo plug and ran a tank of fuel thru it, shut it off and on several times to make changes but it ran well and seems to have good power. It may get the nod to go in the Super Cub. I'll give it a good outside clean up and polish those twin rocker covers, put some sealent in a few spots that puked fuel, run it again, and get serious about measuring and fitting it to the Super Cub airframe. It will be a contest between this 1.20 and the O.S. 91 surpass as to who gets to power the new white and blue Cub. Thanks to all who responded, it helped give me direction to get this project underway.

ProfLooney

I am getting into being a cub fanatic just got factory drawings and workingt on drawing up a 3rd scale L-21A Super Cub. man it is a pain trying to find good walkaround of the real birds frame. not to mention the dims on the top view of the factory drawings are way out of whack

acdii

If you think that is bad, try doing a B-17.

smkrcflyer

Hangar 9 has a new Carbon Cub coming out.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/product/...cc-arf-han5065

acdii

They should have it with a Saito FG-14 instead of that noisy evolution 2 popper. Its a Semi scale 1/5th.

smkrcflyer

I agree with you but the FG-14 is about $100 more. Maybe there trying to keep the cost down to get more people to look at it.

acdii

And well worth it. The FG-11 has saved me at least $80 in the first year of use over a Nitro 4 stroke Saito. While the Evo shown will consume less fuel than a similar nitro 2 popper, it will still use more fuel than the Saito will. May not pay off the difference in the first year, but over its lifetime(provided you dont land wrong), it will more than make up the cost difference.

Of course there is the CDI conversion of a Nitro, but not all can be done easily, but if done, it supposedly has even greater saving over gas with more power per stroke, with similar fuel efficiency. Apparently, if I swap the carb out on my FG-11 with a glow carb, and not change anything, I can run glow through it and get more power and better efficiency. It would be easier to convert a gas 4 stroke to Glow CDI than to convert a glow to CDI.

SrTelemaster150

Evolution is their own product line.

SrTelemaster150

The price difference between the FA-100 & FG-14 is only $20. That's an obvious ploy by Horizon to make "gas" more attractive than glow. Since you would have to buy the manifold as well as the carburetor, the actual savings is only about $19 converting gas to methanol as opposed to converting glow to CDI.

The 'big blocks" aren't as easy to convert since the cylinder head/manifold interface is different for gas & glow.

And yes, you would realize about 22% more power over gas.

$20 price difference
$21.50 for FA-100 manifold
$64.95 for FA-100 carburetor

$106.45 for conversion to methanol vs $125 for CDI conversion.

Me, I would convert an FA-115 to CDI (as I am going to do) for even more power.

acdii

Well I am considering converting the two FA-100 I have to CDI at some point, once bills are caught up, in the meantime though I need to find an engine for my Citabria, so was considering another FG-11 for it. If I could find one of the newer 60 sized Saitos for a good price and have the cash, then that would also work.

This would be a good opportunity to set up my mini lathe and make some collars for the 100 and see what I can come up with. I can get aluminum stock easy enough.

John_M_

You can easily convert any 2 or 4 stroke glow engine to CDI and still run it on glow fuel... I converted my saito 130 twin and OS FT160 twin to glow / CDI; nice improvement in performance, reliability and fuel economy... in my opinion, very little is gained other than the cost of the fuel of course when you convert a glow engine to GAS / CDI... in the case of a gas 4 stroke, I would up the cc's to get better performance, rather than convert it to glow.



John M,

SrTelemaster150

If you have a lathe it will reduce the cost of CDI conversion considerably. All you need for a Hall sensor mount is some 1/16" aluminum angle.

An FA-82 converted to CDI would make more power than an FG-14 even if you eliminated the nitro entirely. With some nitro it would rival the FG-21 in power output at the expense of fuel economy.

acdii

Thats what I was thinking too. The largest expense would be the ignition module and pickup then. Its the smaller FG-11 size that would be a pain to do just because of the smaller size collet. In that case I would just do what Saito did and put the magnet in the collet. The trick would be to place the HES since the FG-11 case has a bit more meat to it where they mount it.

SrTelemaster150

Putting the magnet in the collet will be an exercise in frustration unless you;

A) Pin the collet to the crankshaft for positive alignment like the FG enginest,

B) make the hall sensor mount adjustable

Magnets in the collet has been tried & the problem is that the collet will shift on the initial start up. (even though it will remain as set after this initial movement) Ask Dave about it.

You can make the magnet ring as thick as needed and them shim or fabricate the hall sensor mount for clearance.

With the new generation of rare earth magnets it might be possible to affix the Hall sensor mount on top of the aluminum angle. t is no longer required to have the magnet pass within .5mm with the old generation magnets.

Also be aware that there are Saito engines that come fro the factory with aluminum collets that will NEVER hold position for ignition timeing.

SrTelemaster150

There is also the option of using a disc to orient the magnetic poles at 90* to the propeller arc with the Hall sensor facing forward like the original "C&H Electronics" systems. That is a poor choice on smaller applications.

acdii

Going to study how Saito did the FG-11. They have the magnet in the collet and a set screw. Will be interesting to see how they did that.

SrTelemaster150

I haven't seen a close up of the FG-11 crank but it looks to me like on the big blocks they use a pin.

If you have a lathe, why not just go the adjustable magnet ring route? It is probably going to be the easiest in the long run. The FG-11 has the same high case "B" cam housing & cam as the FA-125 so there should be ample room for a ring thick enough to allow a set screw & magnet to be installed.. Once you tighten down the collet, it won't be easy to make adjustments. It will also be hard to build a lot of adjustment into a Hall sensor mount. With a set screw applied magnet ring you have 360* adjustment.

John_M_

I believe the FG-11 uses an adjustable magnet ring on the prop drive washer, held in place with a set screw.... the prop drive washer is held by the collet on the end of the crankshaft... the magnet ring is the most commonly used method; my GF40 has a magnet ring on the prop drive washer, and the prop drive washer in keyed with a woodruff key.


When I did my Saito130, at the time CH ignition kits came with a Delrin disc that was held onto the prop drive washer with 3 set screws, and the magnet was pressed into the Delrin disc... you'll need a prop drive washer puller on the saito engines, easiy enough to make rather than purchase one.


John M,

SrTelemaster150

I'll bet that system with the delrin disc had C&H Electronics on the module.

Was it from Riverton WY?

John_M_

Yep, has "CD Electronic Ignition by C&H Electronics" silk screened on the module, brown box with yellow print... from Riverton Wyoming... I was one of the first to purchase their new modules with the "Syncro spark" stuffed inside the box, wrapped in a piece of aluminum foil, lol; which I later pop riveted a small pocket out of some flight metal on one side of the case (inside) that the syncro spark module slipped into, just to stop it from vibrating around inside the case.

The ignition coil inside the box was one that was used in some brands of lawn care gas equipment, not the tiny coil that C / H uses today.

Although the new C / H systems draw less current than its earlier predecessor, I like the coil that was originally used.



John M,

SrTelemaster150

WOW, brown with yellow silk screening? Mine are aluminum with red. I have 3 of them, 2 singles & a twin. One of the singles has been through several crashes, one a total demolish of my Sr Telemaster. Still works! It amuses me when some question the reliability of CDI.

All of mine have '97 dates scribed on the backs. Do yours have any dates?

John_M_

I don't know which came first, the aluminum with red markings, or the brown with yellow... mine have worked flawlessly as well; the ignition coils use to be available from home depot (hard to find now), all you had to do was cut the plastic mounting lugs off it, but I've never had the need to replace any of the ignition coils, still using the originals.... they are very reliable !! lol, not sure about the chinese knock offs though, cheap is cheap !


John M,

Murphey

My Feedback: (11)

Getting ready to cut "N" numbers for my 1/4 scale J3. Does anyone know the name of the font used, or where I might be able to download the font?
Thanks
Murphey

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I can remember when I was teenager OS brought out their first Four Stroke it had open pushrods and followers (big mistake) My LHS at the time would let me but engines in layaway and i would pay him weekly. There was a an old German machinist, Otto I think was his name, who cleaned up converting these engines to spark ignition.. When you had it running at an idle they blew smoke rings! I thought it was the greatest thing since slice bread. I never did get mine converted but selling it did finance my return to R/C in 2004. I had the OS engine mount for it but I lost it along the way somewhere.

Cub Man

My Feedback: (50)

I have always used http://www.dafont.com/amarillo-usaf.font for the font