***CUB BROTHERHOOD***
03-14-2016, 08:16 AM
#3876
Ok just finished the final working cast last night... its cast using super alloy 1 aluminum brazing rod and flux; took me a couple tries to get the metal to flow around the reinforcement metal rod which is stainless... I ended up having to tin the stainless rod with the super alloy 1 first, then I coated it in the special flux, and then preheated it in the plaster mold in the oven... then slung in the molten super alloy 1 into the hot mold... that super alloy 1 is a low temp alloy rod that can be used to solder aluminum to aluminum, or to other metals, pretty neat stuff... plenty strong enough for this application.
I'm going to bead blast it and paint in with silver hammered paint when I finish making the tiller arm.
John M,
I'm going to bead blast it and paint in with silver hammered paint when I finish making the tiller arm.
John M,
Great video Astula! A build of the highest quality!
03-14-2016, 09:50 AM
#3877
Build J-3 Cub scale 1/4 competition F4C : PH-GEN
Photo Vidéo Build J-3 CUB
https://youtu.be/36Ag65rAerk
Astula
Belgium
Photo Vidéo Build J-3 CUB
https://youtu.be/36Ag65rAerk
Astula
Belgium
Nice job Astula !! ... landing gear came out very nice.
John M,
03-14-2016, 10:05 AM
#3878
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Location: FAUVILLERS, BELGIUM
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New Project :
Clipped Wing scale 1/4 off Original "F-AYAA" France
Photo vidéo off the Original model
https://youtu.be/AeFiJXQ9UG0
https://youtu.be/B-fUj9PgyP4
but i will make a new thread for this construction
Astula
Clipped Wing scale 1/4 off Original "F-AYAA" France
Photo vidéo off the Original model
https://youtu.be/AeFiJXQ9UG0
https://youtu.be/B-fUj9PgyP4
but i will make a new thread for this construction
Astula
03-14-2016, 10:06 AM
#3879
John M,
03-14-2016, 07:39 PM
#3880
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astula, I had to look closely and study your Cub photo for awhile, I thought it was a full scale "real" one! Great looking plane! That's what a scale model is supposed to do, fool the viewer. It is a model, isn't it ?
Last edited by 52larry52; 03-14-2016 at 07:42 PM. Reason: missing word
03-15-2016, 01:38 AM
#3882
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Last edited by astula; 03-15-2016 at 01:42 AM.
03-15-2016, 05:54 AM
#3884
03-15-2016, 12:30 PM
#3885
That is a nice video SunDevilPilot... good scale references with him working close with his hands you can see the scale relationship of the full size L4 cub... things are not as large as they seem, lol
John M,
John M,
03-15-2016, 12:38 PM
#3886
Interesting how cubs look so much alike, well they are all alike in the way their made and the majority of paint schemes on them Then there are the super cubs which really aren't that much different from the looks of the J3, however the true beauty of this plane really shows it's self off when you find the right one to copy and I did. when it;s done mine will look just like the pictured one. It's a one of a kind Super Cub with every detail, not one you see every day and I have been looking.
When the plane is finished and the time is right I will post what I have accomplished, it's amazing what can be accomplished with these planes, it even surprises me. Pictures are part of documentation folder for Scale Masters events.
Leroy
When the plane is finished and the time is right I will post what I have accomplished, it's amazing what can be accomplished with these planes, it even surprises me. Pictures are part of documentation folder for Scale Masters events.
Leroy
03-15-2016, 12:49 PM
#3887
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When i don't take time each nicht to go though my nightly cleaning routine, I end up running around like a crazy lady the next morning...
"Christine Satterfield"
03-15-2016, 12:52 PM
#3888
I once heard someone say that a productive morning starts the night before, i don't know about you but that is certainly true in my world.
When i don't take time each nicht to go though my nightly cleaning routine, I end up running around like a crazy lady the next morning... "Christine Satterfield"
When i don't take time each nicht to go though my nightly cleaning routine, I end up running around like a crazy lady the next morning...
"Christine Satterfield"
03-15-2016, 01:19 PM
#3889
Card table, wow flyer, that in itself is a talent to behold 
... I just picked up an old glass tv stand that a neighbor was getting rid of... its 42" long by 22" wide, and 3/8" thick glass; its super flat and has a rigid metal tube stand... it was used with one of those older 55" samsung DLP rear projection tv's... I was thinking of gluing some cork down and use it to build wings on.
John M,
... I just picked up an old glass tv stand that a neighbor was getting rid of... its 42" long by 22" wide, and 3/8" thick glass; its super flat and has a rigid metal tube stand... it was used with one of those older 55" samsung DLP rear projection tv's... I was thinking of gluing some cork down and use it to build wings on.John M,
03-16-2016, 04:20 PM
#3890
LOL I just took some pictures of my work benches for my friend to give him reference for some new ones he is planning, one is clean, the rest, not so much, then I took one of my other two work benches. There is no clear surface on either of them!
03-17-2016, 04:25 AM
#3891
Card table, wow flyer, that in itself is a talent to behold ... I just picked up an old glass tv stand that a neighbor was getting rid of... its 42" long by 22" wide, and 3/8" thick glass; its super flat and has a rigid metal tube stand... it was used with one of those older 55" samsung DLP rear projection tv's... I was thinking of gluing some cork down and use it to build wings on.
John M,
... I just picked up an old glass tv stand that a neighbor was getting rid of... its 42" long by 22" wide, and 3/8" thick glass; its super flat and has a rigid metal tube stand... it was used with one of those older 55" samsung DLP rear projection tv's... I was thinking of gluing some cork down and use it to build wings on. John M,
03-18-2016, 11:45 AM
#3892
lol, I hear you Flyer... amazing things can still be built from a setup like that ... my current build table is a solid core door with 2' x 4' acoustic / dropped ceiling tiles glued to the surface... it works very well, except the ceiling tiles are a bit on the soft side... they hold pins well, but the edges tend to crumble over time... they are easily replaced though.
John M,
... my current build table is a solid core door with 2' x 4' acoustic / dropped ceiling tiles glued to the surface... it works very well, except the ceiling tiles are a bit on the soft side... they hold pins well, but the edges tend to crumble over time... they are easily replaced though.John M,
03-18-2016, 12:53 PM
#3893
Sounds like what I have, except I have 2 of them bolted to my basement walls. Had a pair of 36" closet doors laying around, one side had a hole handle, the other side perfectly smooth.
03-26-2016, 03:31 PM
#3894
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I just got a inside cowl exhaust manifold for my OS 120 fs it still sticks out further than the firewall anyone have info on how I can make it work this is on my 1\4 scale balsa USA j3 cub
03-26-2016, 07:39 PM
#3896
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lol, I hear you Flyer... amazing things can still be built from a setup like that ... my current build table is a solid core door with 2' x 4' acoustic / dropped ceiling tiles glued to the surface... it works very well, except the ceiling tiles are a bit on the soft side... they hold pins well, but the edges tend to crumble over time... they are easily replaced though.
John M,
... my current build table is a solid core door with 2' x 4' acoustic / dropped ceiling tiles glued to the surface... it works very well, except the ceiling tiles are a bit on the soft side... they hold pins well, but the edges tend to crumble over time... they are easily replaced though.John M,
I'll wait to see if you can guess how I do it before I explain it. It's really simple and builds very true.
bird.
03-27-2016, 07:40 AM
#3897
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I have a six panel steel door 36'' wide mounted on a rolling cart with a glass top.I build everything on the glass, yes, even wings and geodetic fuselages! NO PINS! No weights either, or magnets!
I'll wait to see if you can guess how I do it before I explain it. It's really simple and builds very true.
bird.
I'll wait to see if you can guess how I do it before I explain it. It's really simple and builds very true.
bird.
03-28-2016, 05:57 AM
#3899
You glue it to the glass or glue supports to the glass then pop it loose when you're done building. I have a piece of 1/4" plate glass I love to you to mix epoxy and what have you on it. It is so easy so pop off the leftovers when you're done. A flat surface prevents heat build up you get in a cup and shortening the cure time.
03-28-2016, 10:38 AM
#3900
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You glue it to the glass or glue supports to the glass then pop it loose when you're done building. I have a piece of 1/4" plate glass I love to you to mix epoxy and what have you on it. It is so easy so pop off the leftovers when you're done. A flat surface prevents heat build up you get in a cup and shortening the cure time.
Well, enough suspense. I saw a vidio tape by topflite about 25 years ago where a guy did this.
He built the strait wing of the Hot Canary, if some of you old timers remember. It was a 'D' tube construction. L. E. -T. E. sheeting and cap strips and tip blocks. With super glue and accelerator it took him 12 minutes to assemble once he got it set up! Ready to sand!
Set up: Cut out your wing or fuse or any other built up part, tear off a piece of wax paper to fit, spray one side with 3M-77 or equivelent, (not permenant bond) put on glass, spray back side of plan piece and place on top of wax paper. Tear off another piece of wax paper like the first and spray back side and put on plan. Now you have a sandwich- two wax and one plan. It is firmly and temporarly attached to the glass surface.
At this point, have all your pieces layed out and sanded. Spray along the spar or top and botton fuse longerons. Make a close heavy pass, about 4-6 inches, and let it fume off till tacky, about one or two minutes will do. Any stick piece; set one end and while suspended in your hand, start laying the stick/spar in the line adjusting as you go along. Once it is in place you can start setting the ribs in place.
A flat bottom is the easiest. A spray along the T.E. (light) will hold the rib in place. Semi or full symetrical are easy too. Just take a quarter inch stick and support the tails moving the tip end of the stick in or out to set a naturally occurring washout. The spray glue will hold that in place also. Finish the top side of the wing sheeting and caps to hold the twist or strait in it. Flip it and lay it on two sticks as a cradle so it doesn't wobble, and sheet the other side.
Fuselage/geodedic; same process on the set up. Spray outer areas to hold down. Cut your pieces and glue them in as you go, like you would at any rate, like I said, there are no pins, the glue holds everything in place. Now, the second side! Same as the first.....well sorta.......tear off another piece of wax paper and spray the back side and lay over the first piece you built, now spray like you did to secure the first pieces of wood to the plans. Let it fume off and start building on top of the first side and you will have an identical second side. Use a square along the outer edges of the original side piece to align the new pieces.
There you have it. I have a feeling that if you try this you will throw rocks at the old way. Just dont hit the glass in the process. BTW, I have only broken one piece of glass and that was when I was moving my stuff to my new shop. I was, and still am using one of the two pieces I had. The glass is from an insulated sliding glass door ,safety glass, and there was a spot of glue about the size of a nickle and when I tried to spin instead of lift............BOOM!........ like a shot! Only the top sheet not the bottom, don't know why!
I have a quarter inch sheet I have had since 1993. So, don't get squrmish about glass. Makes a nice cutting surface for covering too. Use a ceramic tile for your covering iron to disapate the heat.
OKAY. any further inquiries....................you know how to get ahold of me.
Thanks for your intrest guys. BTW, Just built the two wing panel of the top flite,old one, P-51-A in about three hours using this method.
bird
BTW OK, If you use alcohol to dilute the epoxy and wipe it off the glass you won't have to 'pop' it off. Just sayin'.
Clean up, use a strait edge safety blade and scrape as much as possible off. I use MEK, NASTY STUFF!!!! but it sure does the job! Wipe it down with it and start again. Just remember that heavy handed cutting will evetually scar the glass but not beyond use. There are a lot of sourses for sliding glass doors you can find them on the side/ of the road, the dump motor home and travel trailers have them. Check the sales lot where they repair them.
Okay, I think I'm done.........................
Last edited by bigbird3; 03-28-2016 at 10:55 AM.