dutchy50

Hello
Has anyone had a building experience with one of these planes ( Instructions are not very clear on the build throughout!!!!!!pretty dissapointing actually and leave a lot to the imagination!) I`m installing a O.S 1.20III pumped engine and am wandering if anyone has installed one of these to their Phaeton 90?
Also was the the firewall further aft to what the plans show for one of these engines?
Have done a few measurements myself and think I have to move mine back about another 1/2" on top of the 1/4" as stated, allowing for the pump on the back of the engine.
Would this engine be good for this type of plane as it states on the instructions (90-1.20 size)
Any feedback would be much appreciated!
dutchy50

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

I fairly well have mine completed, just need to cover.. It has a G-23 and should balance with the battery pack, 5 cell 6 volt. This is a builders kit and yes it can be confusing at times. Just take your time and you will figure it out as it is really simple once you
get going. The most difficult part for me is obtaining the proper incidence on the flight surfaces, you must have a incidence gage to do this and lots of patience with the struts, etc..
The 1.20 may not be the best choice but will do the job very well. This is a slow plane with lots of drag and is very tail heavy from the start thats why the G-23 has no weight penalty. Mine will have ailerons on both wings as the orig. only has bottoms.
This plane is a big double winged Kadet, very easy to fly and not a hotrod. A friend has one with a Mag 91 FS that I have flown a number of times, it does well with a huge amount of weight on the nose.
Remember that you are building individual sides to the Fus and wings, it is easy to build two(ask me how I know) of the same if you arn't paying attention.
A real fun relaxing plane that is not real demanding. I suggest tite-bond or similar glue where ever possible as it is lighter and sands easy.
If you stay with the 1.20 it will still come out tail heavy in my opinion or at least be close. You might luck out and move the engine around on the mount to balance the plane saving additional weight penalty. I also mounted the servos in the fus. at the rearfor better use of weight and short positive linkage. These are ways to solve weight penalty problems.
Good luck, it is a really nice flying plane done properly!

cherry629

My Feedback: (29)

Hi Guys not sure bout the Phaeton 90,but if it doesnt have shear webs on spars add some will keep the wing straight,The Phaeton II did not use them,I added them and it made thungs alot better!!!

Rodney

One thing I did on mine which seemed to help a lot was to enlarge the rudder. I doubled the area and left a little overhang (like the J3 Cub) to take some of the load off the rudder servo and still get a very authoritative rudder. I also found that the relative angle of attack between the wings was quite sensitive; the best set up was with the upper wing at 1 1/2 degrees less angle of attack than the lower wing was. The plane seemed to come alive with that set up.

AA5BY

I've a Phaeton 90 in my hanger flying on a Zenoah G-20. Your engine selections should be good but I'd not shorten the firewall out of weight concern. Mine came out heavy having used a Coverite type covering on it. I ordered twenty lineal feet from SR Batteries and used every bit of it. I wished I'd stayed with a plastic covering because of the increased weight.

The setup is a can of worms. BUSA calls for negative in the lower wing but does not provide for it in the saddle, consequently many get built, leaving the easier adjustment to put some negative in the upper wing by shimming the back of it up. Several of us are under the opinion that one ought to build some positive in the stab (same thing as negative in the lower wing that BUSA calls for) and set the upper wing neutral to the stab. With both wings neutral to the stab... the plane doesn't settle into a proper off powered glide slope, but rather be too shallow with the plane lingering aloft and slowing too much on landings.

Dual wing ailerons are very good advice on this plane.

Rodney

As mentioned in my post above, I have the stab and lower wing at 0 degrees, the upper at -1.5 degrees with about 3 degrees down thrust and right thrust. You may need up to 5 degrees down thrust. This arrangement proved best on two Phaeton 90's and two Phaeton 40's. I did lots of testing on relative decalage settings and this worked out best on all of them. Things became pretty squirelly when I set the upper wing positive with respect to the lower wing, would gallop or tend to either climb or dive at a low frequency any time it was in level flight. I always found that ailerons on only the lower wing worked out well but roll rate was not very fast but very realistic.

dutchy50

Thanks for all the replies, will take all this information into account with my build.
Noticed the O.S 1.20 111 surpass engine is about the same weight as the G-20 gas engine. Don`t wish to go gas! rather like the sound of a 4stroke.
When soldering the "N" strutts, is it better to use Silver soldering or can I just use normal soldering?
If Silver soldering, what is the difference?
Does anyone have anymore photo`s of their Phaeton 90 build that they could please show on this thread, beside the ones allready there? Any photos showing the upper formers, in particular upper Former number 4.
dutchy50

Rodney

Staybrite silver solder (not really a silver solder but a tin/lead with about 5% silver added) is slightly better than regular tin/lead solder but either will do the job. Just be sure to have the wire clean, clean, clean and clean some more before soldering and be sure to use flux. Make a jig so that the wires can not move while the soldered joints cool. If you use the Staybrite, be sure to clean the joint well after soldering as the flux they use is acidic and will soon rust/corrode if not cleaned well after soldering. The Staybrite also requires a slightly higher heat to properly melt and flow than regular tin/lead solder.

Carlos G

Hi duchy,

Here is a link to the 2007 Phaeton 90 build Thread

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/post...840&toStyle=tm

Hope this helps
Carlos G
P.S. not sure why the link didnt exactly take but there is a thread regarding the BUSA Phaeton 90

exsailor62

I have a Phaeton 90 under construction and I am using an old ASP 108A. I made an exhaust tunnel in the firewall to use the stock muffler. I also added ply to the wing attachment points that the plans showjust the balsa sheeting covering the screw attachments for cabanes and struts. See pics below.