acdii

It will hold up a lot better when I can keep it out of the corn! Imunched the top forward of the canopy so I have to make some repairs. Itook the sheeting off today and instected the firewall bracing. It is an ARF, so have to take a good look, but the triangle stock used to brace the FW is hardwood, and nice and solid. Ihave about 2 hours flight time on it and its holding up very good. The only cracks I found were from crashing into the corn. It is covered in SIG covering which is holding up OK, but if I were to recover it I would use Ultracote. Iwas able to remove the top covering with a heat gun and Ishould be able to reapply it when I am done with my repairs and beefing up of the FW. Idont need to add any wood, just going to mix up some 30 minute with fibers and brush it into the seams and around the fuse to stiffen it up a bit.

My 4 strokes vibrate more than the DLE does now, so it will hold up quite well. Mount your tank over the CG, make a cover for the nose so you can get in there to mount the ignition module. I'll see if I can get some pics of my setup before Iput the cover back on.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Pete, that was in Calif. before I moved here. I did build the CG Extra as a gift for a friend and used the YS 1.40 in it. About a perfect combo if you add a bigger doubler and angle behind the fire wall. The F4U got sold to one of the guys here on RCU and he too got a deal, not 10 magic beans but under 1/2 the selling price.. I remember now, one was my Mid West Hots 60. I still have and fly it with a YS 1.10!
Spridal, the 4* 120 was once a kit and not too long ago, sorry, I have no templates for it but if you look in our market place you may find a kit? The kit is a bunch stronger then the ARF and would be a bunch better with the DLE engine. If you look in acdii's thread you will find a couple others that have the ARF and they are being stressed with the DLE.
There are just so many other 120 kits/planes that would be better for the little gas engine. Although not a fire breather it will stress a light weight ARF. I have a 60 size CG Extra that has been flying sense 1989 with a YS 1.20 20cc four stroke, almost no vibration compared to the DLE. My point is if you build a kit or from plans a bit of over power isn't going to hurt the air frame.
Arfs are fine but very light weight, look around for a kit.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Gray Beard,

http://www.sigmfg.com/IndexText/SIGRC65.html

acdii

Ihave some pics. GB is correct, the ARF is stuck together with hot glue. Idoes need beefing up in places, which Idid tonight with some 30 minute with milled glass spread across the joints and hit with the heat gun until it flowed like water. Should be plenty strong now. Irepaired the wood where it got busted, and cut a hatch opening in the front. Waiting for the glue to dry so Ican fit the hatch and secure it, then will recover it.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the pics.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

??????????? Make sure you post up if you get this kit. The 120 was discontinued a while back as a kit and I have been going on the assumption it was still only sold in ARF. SIG is under new ownership and they have been making a lot of changes trying to get SIG back to it's former glory. I sure hope this is true and not just a left over on therre web site.
The 120 was an outstanding kit and fun to bash.

acdii

According to the site you can order it.   Tempted to order a 60 myself. The ARF's are no longer made, so if you can find one, grab it.  I know where I can get 2 40's one in each color, but too small for me.  Although, It would be small enough to fly at my house.

acdii

Well, if I wreck my T-34 beyond reasonable repair, the 52 in it would work great in the 4*40.  Hmmmmmmmm

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Ok,
I think I've decided on the Contender. Ialmost pulled the trigger on the SIG, but after several failed attempts to reach them, itleft me feeling very uneasy. With that said, I would like to hear suggestions on engines. The manual calls for a 46 but I'mnot sure if that will give the plane enough kick. If any of you have flown this plane please let me know if the 46 will give the plane some spirit.

prgonzalez

Spridal,

Good selection on the Contender.

But wait, there are other models you can also take a look, the Great Plane Dazzler and Tower Hobbies Uproar (Pretty much same airplane). They are easy to build, very fun to fly and can be built in about two weekends. But the Contender is really a good choice.

The overall performance of engine, airplane, and prop depends on how straight and light you build the model. Besides wood itself, the mayor culprits for weight are adhesives (CA, Epoxy, Wood Glue), electronics, and hardware. The Contender with an estimated weight of 6 to 6.5 lbs, I would go with the high end engine, a 0.52 to 0.61 2-strokes or 0.70 4-strokes. BTW, I have a Dazzler and its final weight is 5 lbs and with a 0.46 w/11x5 APC prop has unlimited vertical. In servos, you can save one easy OZ by using a micro or mini servo for throttle. Another easy OZ is in the tires. Go easy on the epoxy and CA.

my 2 cents,

Pedro

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The contender I know nothing about but when I was into fun fly events I used the Up-Roar 40 or the Dazzler. For competing in fun flys i used nothing except the .46 LA engines and it was about a perfect combo. Both planes would handle the .55 AX but they really don't require that added power. I once used a Roar to break in a .58 MDS and all I can say is WOW!!! Really added a bunch more zip, un-needed but the plane could handle it. Not sure for how long though. Any of the fun fly type of planes are very easy to build. Fun fly events meant your plane was expendable so they were designed to be built in about 12 hours as needed.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Ok Guys,
I pulled the trigger and went with the Contender. It should arrive on Wednesday if they ship tomorrow. Now all I need isa building board and I'm good to go.

JPMacG

My Feedback: (2)

A piece of sheet rock makes a fine building board. I just built a Sig Mid Star. I had some scrap sheet rock in the basement so I thought it was worth a try. Worked great.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

JPMacG,

prgonzalez

My first and second models, as I many here I believe, were done over the dining table.

Mustangman40

My Feedback: (1)

+1 on the contender!!!!!
I think you would be happy with the end product, no matter how advanced you get as a pilot, they are still fun to fly... They build easy and fly like a dream.....

Jimbo

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks Jimbo,

What engine are you using on your Contender?

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Ok Guys,
I'm back with another question. After sanding the airframe will I need to add some type of sealant or prep the wood before applying the Ultracote?

ArcticCatRider

My Feedback: (6)

It all depends your desired finish. Like painting, a covering job will only be as good as the prep work that went into it. Gaps, excessive glue, uneven, nonflush surfaces are often amplified by the covering. Dents and nicks, from moving the model around, or bumping tools into it will show, as well as fingernail marks in the soft balsa.

I usually use a spackle type compound and fill in the noticeable defects, then go around and sand everything. I sand 150, 220 and 400 grit and use tackcloth. Afterwards keep your work surface nice and clean. Tools laying around and whatever else is on your building board will easily dent the nicely finished balsa....so be careful handling before and during covering.

The ultracote goes on the bare wood...no need to seal anything except the firewall area and fuel tank area.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Thank you for the timely response. The info is very helpful.

acdii

I found Monokote sticks better if you give a light spraying of their spray on fuel proofing, but not needed.

Spridal

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the tip. I completed the fuselage about two hours ago. I hope to test fit everything and then sand within the next week or so. Thanks to everyone for helping me get this far.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Everything artic cat said. I use Ultra as my main covering. After finish sanding I use a compressor to blow off the plane then I use a bristle paint brush. Last but not least I use a tack cloth to make sure all the dust is removed. For 99 cents a piece a tack cloth is nice to have in your shop. Covering sticks very well over just wood with nothing brushed or sprayed on. Even using lacquer hair spray over the wood makes it adhere better but if you need to remove it for repairs it can be hard to get off again! I have a repair to do now but I can't get the old covering off. It was built in the late 80s and the builder used balsarite on the wood. Even using an iron and heat gun doesn't help lift it! Only time to use anything on the wood is if it has had oil on it from your fuel.