skeeter_ca

I'm hinging my SS60 and i was wondering what is the best way to set them up? Should i line the pivot point up with the trailing edge and V shape the control surface or back set the pivot point and round the control surface.

see examples below



skeeter

k12rc

I use top method but on flaps recess in trailing edge

LargeScale88

I've done both and the second option is more scale like if you have ever looked at a full scale airplane. If you go with the first method an indentation will be needed because the hinge is bigger at the pivot point and if you don't make an indent you will have a large hinge gap.


Jason

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

First photo and I either bevel the area in the TE and LE so there is only a small gap between the control surface. I use a small counter sink to get the bevel or I just cut a notch.

Zor

I think the ideal would be to have the lower picture and have the fixedsurface also circled to match the movable surface and install so they just do not touch.

Easy to do with a rotor or sandpaper glued to a round dowel of appropiate diameter.

Yes it takes a bit of patience.

Zor

Zor

I figured "to set them up" applies to the hinges as well as to the shape of the TE and LE of the surfaces.

Your sketch does not provide for the method of installing the hinge points.

The hole into which they go in should be drilled right throught or if being a dead end then a venting hole should be drilled where the tip of the hinge will be in order to provide for the cement to come out.

Cement is applied all around the inside of the drilled hole and then to wet the hinge for about 2/3 of its length from the tip and surplus cement is removed from the hinge.

When inserting the hinge it will act like a piston and rotated back and forth while being inserted.
The rotation assures that the cement is well distributed all around the hinge.
The surplus cement comes out the vent hole instead of coming back toward the hinge axle.

Make sure the hinge has been cleaned from any trace of oily substance before applying the cement.
Use acetone or equivalent on a clean piece of rag. Use gloves as appropriate to avoid contact from your finger skin to the acetone.

Zor

sensei

+1

Bob

raptureboy

Simple; follow the directions that come with the hingepoints, they are quite self explanatory.

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

+1

Dan

skeeter_ca

Well....no actually the instructions, if you want to call them that, come with an 2 illustrations similiar to mine and only 19 words to describe how to install them.

Zor,
I like the idea of drilling a small pressure relief hole for the glue and air to squeeze out. I have never heard of that in all the install instruction on the web. How small of a hole do you make?

I guess what i am really wondering is how many people use each method. So what is the most common way of doing it?


skeeter

Zor

skeeter,

I have no idea how to answer your last question concerning the most common way and I doubt that anyone can as we do not knowwhat the other modelers's methods are.

The drilled hole to insert the hinges should logically be an interference fit.
In case someone does not know, an interference fit is when the drilled hole is a tiny bit smaller than the outside diameter of the hinge. It is wise when selecting the drill to make a test using a piece of similar scrap material and feeling how the hinge goes in. There should be no radial play, no looseness.

When drilling through the vent is obviously the same as the insert diameter.
In the case of a blind drilling I drill the vent hole 1/16" or 3/32" dia just beyond where the tip of the hinge will end up. That vent hole is at an angle to the hinge hole from the surface. It disappear when wiping the surplus that comes out and eventually covered with the covering material.

When pushing in the hinge we can stop about 1/8" before full insertion and check in case a tiny bit of cement may have come out near the pivot of the hinge. If any (rarely) that cement can be wiped away and then finish the insertion.

Also important is the aligment of the middle hinge on a typical 3 hinge installation. There is a good method to do that as well. I like to see my control surfaces fall to their full angular travel in both direction by their own weight alone.

If anyone would like me to cover that then ask. I do not wish this thread to go out of topic.

Regards to all de Zor

Zor

It is nice to agree wih another fellow but what are we talking about ?

The attached pictures may help the readers understand better what we are talking about.

Notice that one illustration shows what I was referring to namely to have both nearby surface rounded and just not touching.

I find it regretfull that those illustrations DO NOT take into account the problem of the glue having no place to go while inserting the hinges else than return toward the rotation axis, jam it all up even with applied vaseline and of course an interference fit as should be means that excessive force is needed to push the hinge in place.
Perfection is not of this world but we can improve on it by providing an exhaust for the extra glue that has to come out. I sure hope fellows are not using CA to glue these hinges. When they pick up dozens of pieces theymight never know the crash was due to a failed control surface.

Zor

P.S.: Sorry I do not know how to write captions to the pictures in this forum.

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

Zor:

I was agreeing with Raptureboy that the instructions are on the package!

Dan

Zor

Hi Dan,

There was nothing wrong with what you were doing.

I just thought that the readers might have a better idea of what we are talking about.

We can now see what those instructions actually are and we can evaluate their value.

I hope I did the proper thing also .

Zor