Sig Spacewalker II 1/4 scale
#2051
Rapture boy I have broke in several engines gas and nitro on a setup like posted picture which is mounted on a saw horse and set on the grass, it makes a good dampener and in that sense can not harm the engine like clamping it in a vice would.
#2052
Oh there burning down just fine, and it's not a magnetic thing, it's static electric thing. Funny, I couldn't really do the tweezers thing, but I can cruise along pretty quick with the knife tip. As long as the static stays away. It's gotta be the rubber matt that I'm using. Maybe I'll try something else. I'll probably get real good at them right around the last couple of them.lol. From what I already put down, I estimate somewhere around 12000 of the tiny lil buggers in total.
#2053
Originally Posted by [email protected]
Oh there burning down just fine, and it's not a magnetic thing, it's static electric thing. Funny, I couldn't really do the tweezers thing, but I can cruise along pretty quick with the knife tip. As long as the static stays away. It's gotta be the rubber matt that I'm using. Maybe I'll try something else. I'll probably get real good at them right around the last couple of them.lol. From what I already put down, I estimate somewhere around 12000 of the tiny lil buggers in total.
Leroy
#2054
I got this plane dumped in my lap today, well not quite like that, a guy in our club saw my spacewalker and thought I was the guy to build one of 6 composits ever made that he had one of. When I said I'd build it he said then it's yours, "really, whats the catch", you have one condition, you build it and it's yours and I get to fly it, thats it. Who would say no. I started a thread on Giant scale Airplanes, if intrested take a look 1/3rd scale Polan Special 11 record speed holder build.
Heres a picture of it, the real one.
Heres a picture of it, the real one.
#2056
Leroy
#2057
Leroy, I'm using soda pop cans for the rivets. I punch two or three hundred, then lay em and burn em till I run out. Then punch again. I'd say I'm somewhere around the halfway point right now. The paint came in yesterday so as soon as the rivets are done , she'll get paint. I'll DEFINATELY be watching the other build.
#2058
Leroy,
Great to hear the club responded like that.
That kind of honor can put a spring in your step for some time.
A Well deserved spring, needless to say.
I'm subscribed to your Polan build. Will be fun to watch.
Happy that guy in your club chose you. Sweeeeet.
Kevin
Great to hear the club responded like that.
That kind of honor can put a spring in your step for some time.
A Well deserved spring, needless to say.
I'm subscribed to your Polan build. Will be fun to watch.
Happy that guy in your club chose you. Sweeeeet.
Kevin
Last edited by Melchizedek; 04-06-2014 at 04:26 AM.
#2059
Leroy, That Spacewalker is a real beauty...and I don't really even like the things! Color scheme is very classy and your craftsmanship is superb. Congrats on a stunning plane and thanks for sharing your work.
Rick
Rick
#2060
Leroy
#2062
Nah, don't need it. I figured out that it was the piece of rubber I was using as a tray. I now use a plain piece of paper, and no more trouble. In fact, since I figured that out, I've probably cut my time in half. Cruising now. I have the top of the wing and half of the fuse done. Hey, halfway point! Yuk, only halfway.just realized that. Lol.hey, does anyone have any tips for blending two colors without having a line? I know, airbrush, but I don't have one. I'm talking about the top of fuse and bottom are different colors, and I want them to blend. Any ideas? I know there's some good painters in these threads.
#2063
Steve I don't know what paint you are useing but if it is urethane there are blend solvents for them that are for doing what you want to do, check with your paint store about that product. With base coats/clear coats the clear does that for you, just put enough on to color it well and tape lines will blend with the other colors, no tape lines, yeah.
Leroy
Leroy
#2064
It's Nelson's paint. I'm sure john has some tips about paint lines, just thought I'd pick some brains around here.it is getting a clear coat, but to tell you the truth, I'm not sure what kind of paint it is.
#2065
Steve you'll get it worked out, I expect to see a good paint job. "Yeah" , I'm glad you found out what was causing the rivet problem, big help on that one.
I have been getting time on the 35cc engine, 1hr. and 4o min. so far, it runs like a top at this point, Idles smoothly at 1600 RPM and wide open is producing 7500 with the 19-8 Zoar prop. I plan to put 4 hrs. on it before it goes back in plane. Beraking in one of these in the plane (personal feelings) is not the best idea as alot of adjusting of needles goes on while doing it and you can't do it in the air. Anyway I'll have a finely tuned engine that I won't have to worry about when I fly it.
This engine stand works real well for me, surprised more don't use one.
Leroy
I have been getting time on the 35cc engine, 1hr. and 4o min. so far, it runs like a top at this point, Idles smoothly at 1600 RPM and wide open is producing 7500 with the 19-8 Zoar prop. I plan to put 4 hrs. on it before it goes back in plane. Beraking in one of these in the plane (personal feelings) is not the best idea as alot of adjusting of needles goes on while doing it and you can't do it in the air. Anyway I'll have a finely tuned engine that I won't have to worry about when I fly it.
This engine stand works real well for me, surprised more don't use one.
Leroy
#2067
Leroy, that was the DLE 35RA right? Is there anything special I should know before starting mine up? Hopefully it goes as well as it did with my DLE 20. Looking forward to it!
#2069
Contrary to what some say about choking the engine after it's been ran once for the day. I only kill it at idle rpm, that pretty much unloads the crankcase of excess fuel and after cool down I found a need to choke until it popped and off she would go so if after 5 flips it don't start back up hit the choke until the pop, open the choke and it will start with 2 or 3 flips. set the needles as per instructions, you will have no problems with first start up, it's a really nice engine.
Leroy
#2071
My Feedback: (22)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: palm harbor,
FL
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I am nearly done with my sig liberty sport and now decided to add flying wires basically for scale documentation.anyone got a simple method .they are non functional so spending money on adjustable turnbuckles is not an option.something cheap and simple.
The only dislike I have is the 1/8 × 1/4 balsa strip for the cabane struts covering the wire .cheesy.i thought of several options but at this point I am basically done and will just fly it with wires exposed.when its done I will post.look foward to its maiden.coming in at 7 lbs with an os 91fs.anyone flown it with a 90 four stroke?
The only dislike I have is the 1/8 × 1/4 balsa strip for the cabane struts covering the wire .cheesy.i thought of several options but at this point I am basically done and will just fly it with wires exposed.when its done I will post.look foward to its maiden.coming in at 7 lbs with an os 91fs.anyone flown it with a 90 four stroke?
#2072
My Feedback: (3)
Flyer there is one thing I think is important with these engines, the reed box surfaceses need to be faced with 400 grit wet/dry paper on glass useing water for lube. I was surprised at how bad the seal was when I started the sanding, you can clearly see it. I did both reed surfaceses and the base also, and I also did the carb face mount on the engine, that casting is not flat either. Stuff some soft foam in the rear and with a fine file (I actually broke off 3" of one so I could hold it flat ) and gently run it back and forth over it (do this dry) until it too is perfectly flat, I keep the engine up right when doing this so fillings dont fall directly on the foam and use a vacume to suck up the filings before you pull the foam out and vacume again. Then with a soft cotton cloth ( old tee shirts are great for stuff like this) with some oil on it wipe the opening to pick up any fillings the vacume didn't get, keep the engine up right until done. In case you didn't know the carb can be rotated 180 deg. if the applacation calls for it.
Contrary to what some say about choking the engine after it's been ran once for the day. I only kill it at idle rpm, that pretty much unloads the crankcase of excess fuel and after cool down I found a need to choke until it popped and off she would go so if after 5 flips it don't start back up hit the choke until the pop, open the choke and it will start with 2 or 3 flips. set the needles as per instructions, you will have no problems with first start up, it's a really nice engine.
Leroy
Contrary to what some say about choking the engine after it's been ran once for the day. I only kill it at idle rpm, that pretty much unloads the crankcase of excess fuel and after cool down I found a need to choke until it popped and off she would go so if after 5 flips it don't start back up hit the choke until the pop, open the choke and it will start with 2 or 3 flips. set the needles as per instructions, you will have no problems with first start up, it's a really nice engine.
Leroy
#2073
Jim the reed box is worth looking at and refinishing the surfaces. I would also download the manual if you dont have one and reset the needles and retune the engine. Also check the carb fuel screen and fuel lines. It sounds like something is messing with the fuel / air mixture when you throttle down, does it studder or sound smooth when it happens, the sound of the engine usually will point to something, could be as simple as needle resets. Regardless, I would do the reed box. These engines are not that complacated.
#2074
My Feedback: (3)
Jim the reed box is worth looking at and refinishing the surfaces. I would also download the manual if you dont have one and reset the needles and retune the engine. Also check the carb fuel screen and fuel lines. It sounds like something is messing with the fuel / air mixture when you throttle down, does it studder or sound smooth when it happens, the sound of the engine usually will point to something, could be as simple as needle resets. Regardless, I would do the reed box. These engines are not that complacated.
Guess I am going to have to bite the bullet and pull the carb and get out the 400 grit stuff.
I hate it when I ALMOST know what the hell I am doing.
#2075
Pull that carb screen. I have a three filter setup on all my gasses, and guess what, every time I pull the screen, there's debris. Don't know how the heck it gets there, but it does. Also, how old are your fuel lines. Looks don't count here. I replace mine quite frequently weather they need it or not. You can't always see a pin hole. But I would suspect the screen.