acerc

While your pondering it, think about this, have you ever seen on any plane anywhere the ele halves not even. That is what happens is time, sometimes a short period, and or heavier flying. The wood does twist sooner or later. I no longer use a single horn unless it is internal and made of metal and attached to metal.

Melchizedek

Well, you have a point there Robert.
I did not think of the windmill on the starboard side bending and twisting my little 3/8 stick till it couldn't take it anymore. Then finally in rebellion making my port and starboard out of kilter.

At first glance at the connector I thought it was a little under engineered. At second glance, well case closed. Lesson learned

Is it prudent to not have a connector with a independent servo working each side or is it ok with a connector ?
Is setup problematic with the connector in place ?


This leaves me with another trade off with the split fuse. Another servo behind CG.

Kevin

acerc

As far as connecting for dual ele horns there are numerous ways to go about it. I prefer to join two push rods via wire and solder but they do make contraption's for purchase. With your abilities you could fashion an aluminum block with set screws for all the wires, servo wire centered and ele wires outside halves. I'll look and see if I can find one they make for you to see.

I can't find that block or even a pic of it.

Melchizedek

Robert,
looks like the Sullivan elevator splitter is probably a good way to go. It looks light , cost low, and sound.

Pondering dual servos also. Will mull this over awhile. I need to look at the rear fuse and see what is desirable.
With me, what is desirable is not always the simple way but sometimes it is .

You guys (Vince/Robert, Robert/Vince) have broadened my concept of how to do an elevator.
Very cool that is !! Thank you

Kevin

Melchizedek

Robert,
looks like the Sullivan elevator splitter is probably a good way to go. It looks light , cost low, and sound.

Pondering dual servos also. Will mull this over awhile. I need to look at the rear fuse and see what is desirable.
With me, what is desirable is not always the simple way but sometimes it is .

I need to clarify my question in post 327 on the connector. By connector I meant the 3/8 wood joining rod that joins both elevator half's.
If I opt to go dual servo does this connector need to be cut so there is not battling servo's at set up. Or ok to leave them connected and check servo throw before connecting push rods.to horns.



You guys (Vince/Robert, Robert/Vince) have broadened my concept of how to do an elevator.
Very cool that is !! Thank you

Kevin

acerc

If going with two servos remove the hardwood connection. Even if you get both servo throws perfect, which I'm sure you would, there may still be some fight between the two in flight. Who says through the maneuvers the ele's see the same load. This also applies to split push rods, remove the wood.

acerc

Almost forgot, if you are "really" feeling your oats, you can run dual servos and program in ele to aileron mix for some seriously wicked rolls and spins.

Melchizedek

Betty would be barfing all over the cockpit not to mention my rolling her right into the ground


I got an idea rolling with one servo keeping the wood and two horns. Will ponder some more .

Kevin

VincentJ

It will also make covering the elevator so much easier!

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

The elevator splitter I've seen at tower is set up for 2-56 rod.......enuf?

Melchizedek

Triumphman, enough? Not sure. Someone else can answer that. Sullivan makes one in 2/56 and 4/40 .

Given the size of the 1/3 SW. I will use 4/40 but am planning on fabricating my own at this point.

Kevin

Melchizedek

Triumphman,

I must apologize, I addressed your question without a hint of hospitality. My Bad
So, Welcome !! Glad to have you on this journey.

I was pondering your question this evening. The thought occurred to me with the split elevator (two push rods at the hinny) that each pushrod is actually only pushing half an elevator. The kit as designed calls for a 4/40 to push both half's with one control horn. With 2 pushrods the load is halved. So say a 4/40 or stronger (dowel rod) going from servo to junction at the rear and then 2 2/56 coming off of the junction to the control horns. Seems to me that it would be enough. But for my application, the two pushrods are going to probably need a dog leg in them. This would compromise there rigidity somewhat. I will play with it, I have lots of 2/56 laying around. Not being an engineer, I will be going by gut instinct with a mock up.

Having said all that.
My nature is to build stuff rock solid. I'm the guy if it were not for solid and proven building standards. I would build a house with studs on 8 inch centers and wrap the whole house with 3/4 aircraft ply. And everything would be screwed together with hysol at every joint.


So don't be surprised if the rear push rods end up 4/40.
Stay tuned

Kevin

acerc

I would be surprised if they end up at 2-56. The mfg's go by their build to make recommendations. They don't take into account any of our modifications, or our added weight's. With what we do to their kits most of the hardware would be a required upgrade from the mfg's point of view, if they gave their point of view.
A good example is my current build, the mfg list 33lbs for the weight, mine will be between 45 to 50 pounds. So some accommodation's have to be made.

Melchizedek

Great points Robert.
Im thinking it unlikely too, especialy with the doglegs on the buisness end.

Wow, 50 lbs.,though all the utube footage i have seen of your bird take almost no runway to get up. Tons of lift.

Kevin

Kevin

acerc

And seriously over powered!!!LOL

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Hi Kevin, 'preciate the hospitality . . . . been following the Spacewalker threads with Vincent and Leroy, and also yourself, as I have a 1\3 size NIB with a nice Saito 270 waiting for it. A lot of the techniques are above me, but it's nice to see the options people use. Aren't you using the hidden aileron linkages?
I'm a fan of Sullivan products, but my "bad" for only checking Towers' selection of the elevator splitter. I'm sure you'll devise something to accommodate the split elevators, and I'll be interested to see the results

Mike Brennan
aka T-man49 in Al

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Hey Mike, what are the specs on that old Saito 270 twin? I was trying to determine a single cylinder equivalent for that engine.

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Hi Okie, Not the original owner, so don't have any paperwork, and quick look online didn't show much info. What I have seen is turning a 20x8 appx 7000rpm on glow. It does weigh 5lbs thou. If you like Saitos', the FA220a would seem to be closest, spinning up to a 20x10. Mine has been CDI converted - have both gas and stock carb - and on gas expect to turn maybe a 19x8. Have a Webra Bully 35 gasser and think that an OS GT33 and maybe a DLE35RA would be real close as far as singles go.

T-man49 in Al
Mike Brennan

Melchizedek

Mike,

Yes I am using the hidden linkage. I like the idea of not having hardware hanging outside the wing. Especial with removable wings. The wings can be laid on top each other without the pointy elbows . I will have trouble enough not banging her up in transit.

There is a lot to be said building her as per plans. The build will go much faster and it is a fun build. Sometimes I wish I had.

To add to Flyers questions, Will your Saito fit without cutting the cowl to make room for the cylinders ?
Maybe instead of dummie cylinders on the side, real ones .
The 4 cycle will sound sweet.

Kevin

triumphman49

My Feedback: (149)

Hi Kevin, Yes, the cylinder heads will stick WAY out . . . but I have seen a couple of SW like that and I have obtained some gold valve covers . . . .so Think I'll be happy . . .. especially with the sound.

T-man49 in Al

Melchizedek

Well, I got myself an unexpected Staycation (to borrow David's word).

I was drilling 12 foot long z clips for mounting holes for a field install this morning. We are installing 3/4 veneer panels on a 3 story stair well.
One hole at every stud.


While drilling multiple 3/16 holes. The drill bit broke. The narrely half left in the drill went careening toward my left hand. The clip is hard aluminum so I had some force applied. In hind sight, to much. The bit landed dead center of my ring finger and zipped on through. It happened in an instant.

By the Grace of God it didn't land on the knuckle. With the force, the bit kind of cork screwed through instead of drill.
I have no nerve damage. Dr. did a 2 prong 1 prong test to finger tip and was able to called every one.
No tendons were severed, there is full motion.
I did do a number to the bone though. The finger tip was floppy. The hand specialist thinks there is still enough bone left to heal without pins or anything.

What they did do was remove the nail and repair the damage to the nail bed. Then trimmed and fitted the nail to slip back into place to keep the nail bed soft as it heals. Scaring of the bed would be problematic when the nail grows back.

Under the circumstances the damage is very minimal with what could be. Thank You God

Entry :



Exit :



Some guys will do anything to get out of work, Slacker

Kevin

Leroy Gardner

Sorry Kevin, not suppose to do those stupid ( is that the right word in this case) things to yourself. It wasn't your nose picker so you should still be able to work on the plane. Just tape one of those finger protectors on it and get to work. Laugh now.

Waaay back sometime I drilled my palm, now that was stupid, I missed the bones and the cork screw flesh sticking out of it got sniped off, a glove put on and back to work. One of my work mates got sick when I sniped it off, I laughed and said, cute little pig tail wasn't it and laughed. By the way it was a 5/16" bit, still a small scar there.

Bummer, right at the base of the nail, thats gotta hurt, hope you learned something from it, always something to learn, stay away from the CA bottles for awhile, ha ha.

Leroy

VincentJ

Ouch! That had to hurt...better the finger and not the eye.

Cub Flyer Fresno

What a way to get a staycation! There are better ways you know. Of course you could have done what I did; ride a bicycle, have a crash and break your hip. Surgery, three months at home... Or there is this; ride a bicycle, have a crash and break your collar bone. Surgery, two months at home... Wait a minute, I see a pattern!

Melchizedek

DaGone Leroy, Your a candidate for the coveted Rambo prize with that snip it off thingy.

Yes, Vince. Mutch to be thankful for.

David, I will have to get with you and take notes on this free time bonanza you got going .
I like to cycle also. My ride of choice is a recumbent. Google " Bacchetta Corsa" if interested.

My apologies for the creature feature. I blame that post on oxycodone. This morning I had thought better of it, but too late!

Back on topic

This is what I worked up concerning the split elevator thingy.
I had some 1/2 by 3/4 aluminum stock that I put to use.
The control rod is 4/40. The set screws are 6/32. The push rod is 5/16 od fiberglass.



My plan is to epoxy the FG pushrod into the aluminum block. The Rod sits into block a full 5/8 inch.
I thought about a cotter pin to keep push rod from ever backing out but was concerned with putting hole so close to rod end.
Does anybody have any thoughts on this ?

Kevin