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Balsa USA Brotherhood

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Old 06-03-2014, 12:02 AM
  #326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vertical grimmace View Post
I did not make any outline changes. and it has done very well in that respect.

The major items otherwise, I completely scratch built the landing gear, mainly using a 1/4" axel. I use GTM fabric, I added a Proctor dummy engine. I used Proctor decals for the nomenclature, (which are not available now), I also added a GTM cockipt kit.
Thanks VG, I ordered a proctor dummy merc ( not cheap $120 usd delivered to Aus), not sure what scheme to go with but may as well order the gtm fabric while it's available, gtm don't do a D7 cockpit kit any more, but I see they are getting into 3d printed stuff, so maybe down the road he'll make something.
I probably won't start for a year or so, just want to collect bits while I can.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:23 PM
  #327
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Now I agree that if you are going to compete in a contest, or are really into scale, then Proctor is the best. I have a set of their wheels and they look great. As does their motor, with some work. But if you are on a budget and still want more than the Balsa USA motor up front... nothing beats broken drum sticks, Bic pen parts, broken clevises and a few other odds and ends in most builders shop. VG, I am glad to see that some folks still enter the Nats with a bird of less than 1/3 scale. Best wishes.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:10 PM
  #328
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There are certainly ways to recreate these details. The problem is, it is tough to know exactly how they should look, unless you have a ton of pictures. When you buy a kit, like the proctor, at least you are given the documentation, and the parts to have a good place to start. The Proctor kit is not perfect, and it takes some time, but it is good. I would not coil your own springs as they would have you do though. Just buy them from a hardware store. They literally would have you wrap soft wire around a dowel, to create the springs! Truly not practical in my mind.

I want to mention that I have been working on the nomenclature details with Get Stencils. This is for all of the little lettering, the weight tables, the rigging diagram, the incidence markings, and the model numbers. These are all in 1/4 scale and are all dry rub. I feel this is the best way to go, as they have proven quite durable. If anyone needs these, you can just contact getstencils, and they will already have it worked up, you will just have to change the numbers to your particular plane. For me, this is a pretty big deal really, as this stuff is nearly impossible to paint.

I had all of mine done for my Fokker DR1 as well, so those would be easily ordered from them as well. Of course, you need to be painting your iron crosses and the bigger stuff anyway right? So no, those are not available as a dry bub, but paint masks can be had as well.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:42 AM
  #329
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Thanks again VG all those little details would be handy in a dry rub, I need to pick a scheme now, I'm happy to buy GTM fabric , but need a bit of colour to make it stand out at my field against the hill.
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Old 06-04-2014, 12:26 PM
  #330
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I have used the getstencils dry rubs. First rate. Easy to use. Good people to deal with.
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Old 06-04-2014, 03:09 PM
  #331
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Here is the weight table dry rub on my Fokker DR1. The Werk number was a paint stencil I used from Get stencils, to airbrush that. They both worked out great. And the system they use for the paint stencils worked very well.
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:04 AM
  #332
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very nice work, both jeffEE and VG!
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Old 06-05-2014, 07:04 AM
  #333
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Default Color paint for my se5-a

I want the brownish olive drab color pc-10, Mick Reeves carries it but won't ship paint.
any one have any luck having it mixed at paint store like home depot, I don't think I want to use house paint, any ideas
I could just go with olive drab but that's going to bug the crap out of me later
Thanks for any input, Ron
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Old 06-05-2014, 12:14 PM
  #334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quagmire View Post
I want the brownish olive drab color pc-10, Mick Reeves carries it but won't ship paint.
any one have any luck having it mixed at paint store like home depot, I don't think I want to use house paint, any ideas
I could just go with olive drab but that's going to bug the crap out of me later
Thanks for any input, Ron


I think the Latex worked out pretty good on these 2 models. The FW 190 was airbrushed extensively, so it works that way as well. Very easy to use, clean up, and has great properties for weathering. I pretty much use Behr Latex exclusively. The Fokker had it's fabric doped, then I used latex for the color.
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:07 PM
  #335
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Going to start the streaking on my 1/3 D-VII tonight. Heres a couple of shots of the fuse and my test panel.
l
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Old 06-05-2014, 01:16 PM
  #336
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Steve,

I remember Del Johnson told me when applying the streaking you dip the brush and get a good amount of paint then make one pass down stroke move over a brush width and then brush up do that till the paint gets light before you add more paint to the brush. If it looks to light in places you can always touch it up.

John
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:01 PM
  #337
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John,
I did a lot ( too much) of research on the streaking. In fact it has held me up finishing this model because I'm chicken. Any way, I have found several desriptions that match, and that is what i tried to duplicate. Early D-VII streaking was put on over doped linen. The streaking actually involved 2 colors of green, and depending on the article, even blue. They used an 8 cm brush, dipping one side in the lighter shade of green and the other side in an olive shade of green, and then brush as you have said. When the paint thinned out, they dipped again and kept going. I read one account where that author said the 2 colors were put over a base coat of aqua.
My test panel is 2 colors of green, an olive drab and a slightly greener tone, put on with a 1" brush. Mixing and dipping as I went. I think it curious that in one spot it actually looks blue. No blue was used. Any way. Right or wrong, this is what it's gonna have. I've messed with this plane way too long. Time tio fly it.
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Old 06-05-2014, 02:37 PM
  #338
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VG looks like that's the way to go, What did you use for thinner, I'm painting over solartex any special primer needed, I can build ok but I have limited myself to rattle cans and its time to kick it up a notch, Nice job on the 190 that's a pica kit, I'm working on one on also.
Ron
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Old 06-05-2014, 04:10 PM
  #339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Percifield View Post
Going to start the streaking on my 1/3 D-VII tonight. Heres a couple of shots of the fuse and my test panel.
l
Sir Percy ...... it looks great! Please carry on.
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Old 06-05-2014, 05:05 PM
  #340
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quagmire View Post
VG looks like that's the way to go, What did you use for thinner, I'm painting over solartex any special primer needed, I can build ok but I have limited myself to rattle cans and its time to kick it up a notch, Nice job on the 190 that's a pica kit, I'm working on one on also.
Ron
I thin with windshield washer fluid. Yah, the blue stuff. Add a little Floetrol as well to break the surface tension. Helps it to lay down real nice.
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:42 AM
  #341
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Thanks for the info I'll post some pics when I get there
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Old 06-06-2014, 10:55 AM
  #342
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Quagmire,

I too tried to get Mick Reeves to ship colors but . . .int'l restrictions.

you might try Nelson paints. He sells a latex version. Abufletcher (RCU) i feel really nailed the colors on his SE-5a. he used nelson PC-10 but went and added some tamiya red, brown and black to get a better weathered and to me more accurate looking PC-10. but ask 3 guys and get 3 diff answers. See attached pic as it shows the two on white background.

Not sure which PC you really mean as you mix brownish and Olive in same description
i use this gouge to keep them strait.


PC - Protective Covering
PC-10 was the greenish olive used on Western front.
PC-12 was the more brownish khaki used in the Middle East front, Palestine.

According to the WW1 British Aeroplane Colors and Markings by Bruce Robertson, PC12 was a "browner finish" than PC10. PC12 was also "advocated for naval aircraft". The pigments used were Red iron oxide & Carbon black. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-06-2014, 11:05 AM
  #343
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I used the same as Vertical G. l

solartex natural covering from BUSA. I painted with latex house paint (Tayer's do it center) matched a scrap color chip. Added clear windshield washer about 30% to thin and about 10% Flotrol and sprayed via an auto detailing spray gun.

Last edited by FireBee; 06-06-2014 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 06-06-2014, 06:19 PM
  #344
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Thanks, FireBee I read that pc-10 would turn brown with age but like you said lots of opinions out there, I might try to lay down the pc-10 then thin out the pc-12 and give a quick wipe so it gets in all the stitches and
seams use like weathering, I have until October to finish for OCMA Dawn patrol at black star canyon
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Old 06-09-2014, 01:54 PM
  #345
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Here's the fuse, and the fuse with the stab.....

slowly getting there...
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Old 06-09-2014, 02:22 PM
  #346
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Steve, that looks great!
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Old 06-09-2014, 05:06 PM
  #347
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Put me down on your list. Dave is a great guy who stands behind their products and will help you out anytime. I have built and rebuilt a number of their planes. I feel the SE 5A and my Fokker DVII are the best fliers.

Nieuport 17
Nieuport 28
Spad XIII
SE 5A
Fokker DVII

Fokker DRI (to be built this winter)

Ray.
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Old 06-09-2014, 05:21 PM
  #348
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Steve, a bold and amazing look you created.
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Old 06-09-2014, 07:08 PM
  #349
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Ok, it's not a WW I bird. It's still considered a 'vintage': The BalsaUSA Moonraker.

I converted this all to electric. The plan is almost perfect for the electrical components to replace the nitro concept.
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Old 06-09-2014, 08:01 PM
  #350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luxuswaffe View Post
Ok, it's not a WW I bird. It's still considered a 'vintage': The BalsaUSA Moonraker.
One of my favorite Balsa USA planes was the the Thunder Bug 40. I've had 3 of the and I flew the holy living snot out all 3 of them. I was absolutely crushed when BUSA decided to discontinue the kit. As you say, it's not a WWI bird but it's still a BUSA plane. I wish they would bring the kit back.

Ken
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