TomCrump

Yard work ? Sounds familiar.

VincentJ

Wanted to briefly discuss what I do to prevent fasteners from loosening on my planes. I'm sure we all can appreciate the importance of nuts and bolts staying tight on our air frames. To many, this means placing a drop or two of either red or blue Loctite on the threads of nuts and bolts, tightening and calling it a day. While this method does have merit, there is something else that does a better job. In two words...Nord-Lock washers (see photo 1). I use them on my engine mount bolts, prop bolts, etc. They can be purchased at any Fastenal store. Here are some links for you to check out.

Nord-Lock wedge-locking washers Secure your critical bolted joints with the original lock washer from the bolting experts

https://www.fastenal.com/

Thinking ahead about my aileron and flap connections, I am using this as a way to keep everything neat, tidy and secure. (I still have two more to install)

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I like the look of Nord-Lock washers but isn't a No. 10 as small as they get?

VincentJ

No Mike, I have #8 Nord-Lock's. I don't know if they come any smaller though...

Check out page 8 Mike, looks like they go down to #5.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Not to shabby I wonder if anyone carries them locally, I need to investigate.

VincentJ

To make sure electrical connections don't unintentionally separate in remote areas, I cut short lengths of heat shrink tubing and place over each connection. Add a bit of heat with a heat gun or lighter and you're done. This is simple and effective, and if in the future the connections need to be separated, just cut the heat shrink off...

Leroy Gardner

Nord-Lock washers have their place in the world of vibration, what most don't know is that they are used under compressed tension. In the machine world fasteners all have a torque value and are used where metal parts are being bolted together. I have used them in industrial applications where high and low frequencies will cause bolts to unwind down the threads of the nuts that hold them even at high torque values. That is why they don't work when bolting wood and metal parts of any kind together. Wood will crush under tension and over time the harmonics will cause the bolt tension to pull it's self further into the wood causing tension loss and eventual failure of the fasteners ability to hold it.

Ny-lock nuts will not do this because the nylon in the head of the nuts are not affected by the vibrations and maintain their grip on the bolts, they are however not recommended for high temp applications, none of which are found on our airplanes. In the case of muffler bolts, a split washer, flat washer, split washer, flat washer works best for holding them and not using the gasket material that usually comes with them, it does the same thing as wood, compresses, instead use red high temp silicone and the excess is squeezed out filling only the voids between the two surfaces. I have never had a muffler come lose with this method but have using a gasket.

It's not hard to be miss lead reading about fasteners but they all have a designed purpose and all are not suitable for many things they are used for, other words they are not all created equal while all are doing the same things under different loads and applications.

Leroy

VincentJ

You're one smart cookie there Leroy! I can't disagree with with any of your statements. That's why I don't use Nord-Locks where there's any wood that can compress and cause the fastener to get loose. All the applications where I use them is metal to metal. Given the chance and used on exhaust mufflers and engine mount bolts, etc. you will find that Nord-Lock washers do a great job without the need of any other product (i.e. Loctite). BTW, the reason I clad all of my firewalls in aluminum is to eliminate any compression of the wood in the firewall, it acts as one large washer! I had an engine years ago loosen due to the wood compressing around the standoffs. I suppose it was more my fault as I should have been more diligent in checking all nuts and bolts for tightness routinely.

Nord Locks aren't perfect for all applications as you stated, but they do work in the situations that they were designed for...

Leroy Gardner

Vincent I like your heat shrink on connections, aside of keeping them together it will help keep moisture out which is an enemy of electrical connections. Given the times are planes sit in storage often in elements of hot and cold temps there are things going on with those connections we (well some ) don't even know about, corrosion as a result of moisture regardless of the amount will build up on those connections and cause some or all continuity loss over time. Planes have gone down that functioned well at start up and had electrical failure in the air because of it. A good preventive measure is to paint a film of dielectric grease on all your connections including receiver terminals, it is a corrosion preventive compound and very good insurance.

Okey I'll get off my apple box but these are good things to know, thought I would share.

BTW, your up to your usual high standards.

Leroy

VincentJ

I like your idea of using dielectric grease on electrical connections Leroy. I use the stuff an a daily basis when working on cars, I never thought to use it on the connections in our planes. Just another great example of when we share our ideas with one another how we can all learn and benefit! You can bet that I'm going to add some to all of my connections now!

VincentJ

Finished prepping the wheel pants, so I sprayed on two coats of white. I also painted the fuel dot (not shown). Tomorrow I'll tape off the pants and shoot the red. Soon my Bravo will be able to stand on her own legs!!!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Pardon the pun but that will be a red letter day!

VincentJ

Today's painting went well. Should be able to stripe and assemble the wheel pants tomorrow!

VincentJ

Finished the upgraded battery tray. The batteries are easily removable by removing a hook and loop strap which is accessible by removing the hatch that I had made early on in the build. Besides the strap, each battery has hook and loop tape fixed on one side of the battery. Only one battery is in place at the moment, but there is room for two side by side. I placed them there as I am banking on that's where I'm going to need weight for this plane to balance out.

I had to go to the hobby store a few days ago, and I brought my cowl with me. I had placed it on the counter, and I noticed a few people looking at it and someone asked me how to open the hatch. I smiled and as I left I was thinking YES!!!!

Photo #5 shows how easily the choke lever can be actuated from outside of the cowl.

Photos 6-7 show the fuel dot that has now been painted white. It blends in much better now...

Photo #8 I mounted a blue LED light that tells me when the ignition is on. The IBEC is my kill switch which I have linked with the Gear switch on my Tx.

Last two photos show my next task at hand...painting and mounting the cowl!

Leroy Gardner

All I can say is this is going to be one beautiful plane Vince, it looks just like the picture without the lettering and I know you'll nail that too. Isn't it a good feeling when you receive comments like you did on your cowl, scale has it's merits. That alone says a lot about all you've done.

Don't forget your cowl baffles, engine is going to need them. Joanna's Fabrics and Michael's has 6 mm thick dense foam board in black that cuts and shapes real well for that, glues up nice with thick CA.

Wheel pants are super as well, nothing but nice things to say, what's not to like. I think your the first person I have ever seen complete a finished fuselage before the wings were done and I'm looking forward to that.

Have a great day, I am, the forest fire smoke is gone. "Yeah".

Leroy

VincentJ

Thanks for the compliments Leroy. Yeah, that put a big smile on my face when that gentleman said that I have to admit!

Tomorrow I'll get the pants on and she'll be able to roll on her own. With the exception of the canopy the fuselage is done and fully operational. Are you near the forest fires? Thanks for the tip on the baffles...

VincentJ

With the canopy cut to size and fitted to the fuse, the tedious process of taping was carefully done. I thought it prudent to scuff up the rest of the canopy with 600 grit paper so the paint had a better chance of holding on. I cut back on the reducer a bit as I remember reading a precaution that it may warp the canopy. I am happy to say that the epoxy paint laid down as expected and the canopy showed no sign of distortion.

I'm off to my workshop to fit the pants on the Bravo, I'll be back later with some photos...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I just love your paint work I can't wait to see the canopy installed!

VincentJ

Thanks Mike! Klass Kote paint is a very good product, I highly recommend trying it if you haven't already.

Pants are done!

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

One gorgeous bird!

Leroy Gardner

Darn, you gotta love this one Vince, I think you just out did yourself on this one. You get your vinyl graphics cut yet, you probably can't wait to get those, all in good time, right.

I have another something to put in your head to do as you please. Those big holes in the front of your cowl look so empty so why not put something in there to make people look twice, "Yes"

You half to put baffles in there anyway so dress them up, check this out. I need to find a better picture.

Leroy

VincentJ

Thanks Leroy, I had to look twice at your photo before I realized what you were talking about! I haven't ordered the lettering as of yet, but it's on my list of things to accomplish.

Unmasked the canopy this morning. It was a lot more difficult than I thought it would be. I'm accustomed to removing the tape before the paint dries, but in this instance I had to wait until this morning. I ran a single edge razor blade lightly all the way around the tape to ensure that I didn't pull up paint that wasn't supposed to. In the end the paint lines were crisp. I'm not all that thrilled on the clarity of the plastic, and there are some scuff marks which I guess can be expected after the amount of time (30+ years) the canopy moved around in the kit box. Can plastic canopy's be buffed, and what product should I use? I still have to paint the inside of the canopy as it is more visible than I thought it would be. Oh well, it gives me a chance to bring the fuse down to the LHS and see if I like any of their pilot busts... The canopy at the moment is just sitting atop the fuselage, I am pleased with how well it fits.

Leroy Gardner

Yes, plastic can be buffed, I know exactly what your talking about and that fog look can be made brilliant again. Scuffs are superficial and have little or no depth. I use Meguiar's Ultimate Compound in a black bottle, shake it well before use. I have used it to restore clarity in boat windshields and buff out paint clear coats with a power buffer. You can do yours by hand and not worry about getting it on the paint, use a foam buffing pad in a circular motion and a fine or micro cloth to wipe it down, I like old Tee shirts for stuff like this.

Canopy is a nice topper on your fuselage, great job on all of it. Now I'm going camping, would be fun to have you and wife along, sounds like you could use an enjoyable trip to the woods.

Leroy

VincentJ

Thanks for the tip Leroy, I bought the Meguiar's as you suggested and will try it out as soon as I give the epoxy paint a bit more time to cure. Have fun in the woods, sounds like a lot of fun!!!

The inside of the canopy has been painted and my build table has been cleared to fit the massive wing. Work has started on building the flaps and ailerons. Building the ailerons is pretty much straight forward by following the plans, the flaps however is a different story. The stock configuration of this build on the plans do not include flaps so I'm having to modify what I have. I am building the flaps to have a maximum of 40 degrees of deflection if needed.

Summer for me is coming to a quick end as I have to return back to work Wednesday of next week. I have enjoyed the opportunity to spend the amount of time that I have given to this build. I would have liked to have completed this project before the start of school, but I don't see that happening...

VincentJ

I've been working on the flaps and servo mounts.

In Photos 1-2 I had to make the servo holders for both flaps and ailerons, a total of four. These were easily made from aluminum angle stock purchased from the local hardware store. I will take them to my shop at work and glass bead them to give them a more uniform appearance. (Note: the fasteners shown are for mock-up purposes only and may be different on final assembly.)

Photos 3-4 show the servo flap hatch for the left side of the wing. I'm glad I took the time to install the tube as it will make fishing the servo leads a snap!

In Photos 5-6 the partially built flap is shown at full deflection (40 degrees). The large balsa blocks are where the hinges will be anchored. I am now fabricating a custom aluminum horn that will be epoxied into place.